I believe it is a drop arm, I bought it from a friend after I sold my old TTB setup.

Yeah I just looked at mine and it looks the same (mine is drop from a 4" lift.)

I'd either by a stock arm and ream it, or buy another drop arm and top mount the TRE. But thats just me.

okay,

Maybe I'll go junkyard hoppin on wednesday and see what I can find. Thanks for your time.

I just ordered Dana 60 front U-joints and they ran me $100 shipped to my house. I know they are HUGE joints, but damn...thats a lot of money for two joints.

Here's the cardone pump on a friend's 4.0:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/100_0961Small.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/100_0962Small.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/100_0963Small.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/100_0964Small.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/100_0967Small.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/100_0968Small.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/100_0970Small.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/100_0971Small.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/100_0972Small.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/100_0973Small.jpg

Here's the cardone pump on a friend's 4.0:



Wow you must hold stock in that company since your whorein' it on every site, like your a salesman for them.:shaking:

Haha, either way... I like to see the pics for reference...

If I'm happy with something/someone I whore around too!

you could weld the pitman arm - but with a tig / high nickel filler and lots of bracing - i have done it - but never on a street rig -

id go like stepside said - get a stock pitman arm - or move the steering box forward a few inches

I have some kind of pitman arm laying around, I think its an old stock explorer one. Want it?

Maybe cause it will actually fit in the 4.0 bracket unlike the canned ham pumps...

Maybe cause it will actually fit in the 4.0 bracket unlike the canned ham pumps...



Kinda like you posting poser pics of your rustmobile on dirt piles? Fuck off you non wheeling poser.

KER SMACK :laughing:

Maybe cause it will actually fit in the 4.0 bracket unlike the canned ham pumps...

Kinda like you posting poser pics of your rustmobile on dirt piles? Fuck off you non wheeling poser.


STFU Dueche bag. Go back to your shithole of poser website you run. BTW Tuff country isn't hard core.

Here's a kick to your Mangina. idiot!:flipoff2:

*gets popcorn*

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/joels-pump.jpg

Looks like a great place for a crack to start.

HOT DAMN!!!!

hmmmm, maybe saying I got the Dana 60 U-joints in the mail isn't that exciting right now...

But I will say they are HUGE and I do have one problem...I pulled one of the caps off (for the hell of it) and when I pushed it back on, the seal broke...I know the seals are tight on the Spicer Life Series, but brittle also? That thing shouldn't have cracked like that...and not that easy.

Anyway, I have a replacement coming in the mail.

I have some kind of pitman arm laying around, I think its an old stock explorer one. Want it?

What do you want for it??? I just saw this... or i would have added it in with your PM I just sent ya!!!

Update:

Got a pitman arm from "sn0border88" and it ended up being the same arm I have now, which is fine. I did ream it out for a chevy TRE from the top instead of the bottom, like everyone was saying. It worked out good, I didn't have time to flex it out, but I'll do that this week sometime.

I did however make some time with the girlfriend to make some poser vids, i know.... i know.... kinda gay, but oh well, deal with it or don't look at them!

They are on my "myspace"...

Linky1 (http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=32309809)

Linky2 (http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=32310072)

Linky3 (http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=32310270)

----Oh, don't worry about that air line, it'll get trimmed, shortened and fastened ALOT better then that. Also, in the third pic, the coolant lines from the trans are being replaced and ran nicer once the aluminum tubing comes in from summit----

I dig it...nice work.

shame that pitman didnt work out

Whats that plate for in the middle of the truss, limit strap?

shame that pitman didnt work out

Whats that plate for in the middle of the truss, limit strap?

Bump stop I believe.


Nice work mang :smokin:

Yes, bump stop.

But after driving it around for a while sunday, I'm beginning to wonder if I'll ever need it.

I realized the most important thing as of now is cutting the tranny X-member so the drive shaft doesn't hit it when the drivers side is at full drop.

shame that pitman didnt work out



It did work out. I reamed it from the top for the TRE.

Oh: Thanks by the way!!!!!

Sweet B ll
I'm very impressed with the work.....

bronco II???????????????????? what the fuck

Yeah B ll's can be built well I hated on them for years but I have to respect alot of the work some are doing with em.

Yeah B ll's can be built well I hated on them for years but I have to respect alot of the work some are doing with em.

Read the thread dumbass, its not a B2 its a Ranger. :shaking:

exactly my point the ttb bronco II has nothing to do with kings build

I've got one week till I trailer up and go to OK4wd's small event then Raush Creek.

I started making shock hoops. Tore out the old 2x2 square tube hoop and bent some tubing the other day. (I want hydrualics). Also made some templates for the shock tabs.

Here's some more...

Had to use a mirror to weld the back of the shock hoops...that was difficult.

The drivers side is going to be fun. Just have to remove a lot of stuff to get in there to weld.

The welds might not be perfect b/c my back was sore (getting tight) and I was in some weird positions welding these shock hoops.

enjoy

Here's some more...

Had to use a mirror to weld the back of the shock hoops...that was difficult.

The drivers side is going to be fun. Just have to remove a lot of stuff to get in there to weld.

The welds might not be perfect b/c my back was sore (getting tight) and I was in some weird positions welding these shock hoops.

enjoy

Your welds with the mirror look 10x better than when I tried that, its friggin hard.

haha, thanks.

Here is a better pic

what tig rod are you using on it. any reason for it? because i normally use R60 for mild.

Hmmm, I can't remember what the number is.

I'll get back to ya on that! (I'm tired and can't think)

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm280/m_hoover/Tierod.jpg

Break-in run was a success, he broke. :flipoff2:

But when it was runnin it looked good.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm280/m_hoover/IMG_3674.jpg

duuude is that like half inch poop pipe?? run 1.5 1/4 wall dom and get a blue oval badge

Thanks micah!

No, it's not poop pipe. It's DOM but obviously not thick enough. I knew it would bend if I hit a rock or stump, but I didn't think it would bend from compression. But I was wrong and something had to get broken on the first run, so I'm glad it was that and nothing expensive.

I learned two things this weekend.
1: the steering link isn't strong enough.
2: the steering setup/design SUCKS without full hydro.

I guess I'll be saving for full hydro now, I was very disappointed with how poorly it was steering. Everytime the chassis would roll to one side or the other the wheels would turn also. And bump steer is bad too. Looks like I have some things to work out!

Here's a vid of when it happened, enjoy!

Vid (http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=33590284)

thats weird how your steering is acting i never had a problem with mine accept at full droop when the bolts would bend haha

how thick was that steering? like .065 wall?

The tie rod is 1/8 inch wall. I can cut it and post pics if you don't believe.

Yes, I know....too small. But I learned...

thats weird how your steering is acting i never had a problem with mine accept at full droop when the bolts would bend haha

Yeah, I don't understand.

Everything else works great, the 4 link or wishbone 3 link, whatever u call it... works great. The air shocks work great (added some nitrogen to the one side on the trail).

I've been reading about Hydrostatic steering (full hydro) for about 2 hrs now... I'm gonna get my info/research together so I can get rid of my drag link, pitman arm and gear box for a SCU, single ended ram and convert to a P-pump.

The damn front suspension works great, I just had no idea the steering would suck as much as it does. Probably would have worked better if I did a 3 link with panhard bar matching the angle of the drag link.

Back to reading..... :eek:

Yeah, I don't understand.

Everything else works great, the 4 link or wishbone 3 link, whatever u call it... works great. The air shocks work great (added some nitrogen to the one side on the trail).

I've been reading about Hydrostatic steering (full hydro) for about 2 hrs now... I'm gonna get my info/research together so I can get rid of my drag link, pitman arm and gear box for a SCU, single ended ram and convert to a P-pump.

The damn front suspension works great, I just had no idea the steering would suck as much as it does. Probably would have worked better if I did a 3 link with panhard bar matching the angle of the drag link.

Back to reading..... :eek:

Dont tear it all out yet, we have another run in a month. Ill check tommorow if I have enough of that tube left, how much do you need?

Let me measure it tomorrow. I'll call ya when I get the dimensions.

Been doing some research.

The SCU (steering control unit/orbital valve) is where most of your cost is. Those damn little things are expensive! $300-400 for just the unit + the bracket (which I can make) + the adapter to match up to a OEM steering shaft.

There must be a gooooooood market up on those SCU's.

Maybe more reading/research will come up with a part number and I can start calling around for prices and whatnot.

Let me measure it tomorrow. I'll call ya when I get the dimensions.

Been doing some research.

The SCU (steering control unit/orbital valve) is where most of your cost is. Those damn little things are expensive! $300-400 for just the unit + the bracket (which I can make) + the adapter to match up to a OEM steering shaft.

There must be a gooooooood market up on those SCU's.

Maybe more reading/research will come up with a part number and I can start calling around for prices and whatnot.

I can email you a guys info. On a Orbitol .

Load Reactive Unit . 7.5 Cu In .
4 Ports Charlynn Style. New with 1 yr warranty.
$255 It is where I am ordering mine from.

i got a free orbital off of a tractor ill have to make it work hahaa truck looked good on the video though

shitty luck on that front man. Looks good over all, how those pitbull tires work?

i got a free orbital off of a tractor ill have to make it work hahaa truck looked good on the video though

Free is always good! Thanks for the comment!

shitty luck on that front man. Looks good over all, how those pitbull tires work?

The pitbull's work good. I didn't have them air'ed down on this trip, so that would have helped alot. I wasn't out for traction, I was out for seeing how my new suspension was working. and steering....:shaking: Thanks for the comment!

I can email you a guys info. On a Orbitol .

Load Reactive Unit . 7.5 Cu In .
4 Ports Charlynn Style. New with 1 yr warranty.
$255 It is where I am ordering mine from.

Pm'ed ya. Sry for the double pm, damn twitchy finger...too much coffee not enough food.

Got new toob...

1.0 ID x 1.5 OD (from sn0border88)

Ordered adapters from Ballistic Fab HERE (http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/78-18tpi-Hex-Tube-Adapter_p_7-1429.html) with the option for 1.5 OD. The hex design should help with tightening the jam nuts.

In the process of getting a SCU.
Still designing the setup on Billavista's Excel program.

Looks like I'm gonna need a ram with a 8inch stroke (measured that yesterday).

Actually. Depending on where I mount the ram on the arm, it could be anywhere from a 9inch stroke to a 5 inch stroke. 8 seems to be the common size for a ram. Plus, I don't want to much pressure on the arm if it's mounted to close to the King Pin.

I did these measurements at a steering angle of 35 degrees. I don't want to push it for steering angle and break something.

check ebay on the orbital valve. You need a 4 port one they usually come off of forklifts, alot of ditch witch machines and alot of other stuff.

i suggest you use a double ram. or get thick chromo tubing for the tie link.


see what a complete setup will go for from 4wp. i have been saving for a setup from station but the kids graduation shit combined with needing another car ate into that pretty good. be lucky to get a locker in there this year now:shaking:


seems a complete setup run 12-1800 bux which is a shit ton of money, but after seeing how well they work and for how long its worth it. or maybe not...its only steering:laughing: riiight?? he mentioned aarons ram was one of the first units they did and he(danger ranger) is still beating on the damn thing last i knew...seems 4-5 years now.:confused: maybe jopes remembers better.

i was looking for pitbull tire info when i found this.....and had to start from the beginning....

damn that was long. i wish i could weld that good:eek:


seems you plan a v8 someday?

to run the 435 setup and 203/205 doubler combos are you using 4xfab stuff to keep the current 4.0??

i ordered PSC ram and pump ill let you know how i like them

I have a 7.3 Cu in Rebuilt unit I bought . 1 year warranty , and first class service. It cost $175 plus shipping. I have the info if anyone wants to call them . I would not reccomend using used parts on your steering. Do it new , do it right.

I guess I'll be saving for full hydro now, I was very disappointed with how poorly it was steering. Everytime the chassis would roll to one side or the other the wheels would turn also. And bump steer is bad too. Looks like I have some things to work out!

you dont need full hydro. unless you really want to spend the extra money.
all you need with the steering/4 link setup you have is a track bar.
even with a 4link the front axle gets pushed around by a steering box, producing the results you had.

btw how thick is the dom drag ling off your pitman?

id say full hydro as long as it has little street time. if not run 1.5 .25 wall dom with 3/4 heims for tie rod and drag link

you dont need full hydro. unless you really want to spend the extra money.
all you need with the steering/4 link setup you have is a track bar.
even with a 4link the front axle gets pushed around by a steering box, producing the results you had.

btw how thick is the dom drag ling off your pitman?




yeah i definatly agree with you there, not needed...just nice.

WOW I should keep on this build a bit better... you actually get shit done unlike some guys on here lol. Well Befor reading this I had already decided on going full hydro with my rander so now I need the same info you do... Except for my 302. What pumps have you looked into? Do you know which one your going to go with yet? I'm going to do an 8" ram too just don't know if I'm going to do a single or double ended. Most likely a double. More pricy but way better. Well I gotta roll beach day!!! I'll post more later... Oh and LOOKING GOOD man!

you actually get shit done unlike some guys on here lol.

Like you?:flipoff2:

HA HA drive by the house and check out my latest lol Ya I'm slow but I need a shop and things would get doen much faster. Gravle drive way blows!

ha Ha Drive By The House And Check Out My Latest Lol Ya I'm Slow But I Need A Shop And Things Would Get Doen Much Faster. gravle Drive Way Blows!


x1000000000000000

HA HA drive by the house and check out my latest lol Ya I'm slow but I need a shop and things would get doen much faster. Gravle drive way blows!

Ya that's this weeks project, so what's next weeks project?? You need to get something done, and wheelable.:flipoff2:

I don't now what Gravle is, is that a form of turf??:flipoff2: My shop floor is Gravel, so suck it up Princess, that's why carpet was invented.:p

What are you driving? Oh that's right nothing right now :flipoff2:..... Sorry I didn't know this was a spelling contest:shaking: I guess you'll just have to see "this weeks project" on the trail then when I pass by you! :flipoff2:

What are you driving? Oh that's right nothing right now :flipoff2:

I'm still driving the B2. Just no time to wheel it right now. Atleast I'm not driving a Chevette!:laughing::flipoff2:

Sorry King you need updates to get this project of yours back on track. We are getting stir crazy and whoreing up your build post. Atleast it's still on page 1!:D

Sorry King you need updates to get this project of yours back on track. We are getting stir crazy and whoreing up your build post. Atleast it's still on page 1!:D

Hey guys, sry about not being around. I haven't had the internet for a while now. But, I'm back in business again.

I picked up everything I need for my hydro steering. Got a orbital (SCU) from a forklift, a 8inch ram and the Cardone pump. With lines I'll have it complete for around $300.00

I'd be working on it now, but I'm exhausted from work. I'll get crackin' on it on sunday. Saturday is a truck show that I haven't attended in 2 years, so my ass is going this year!

Oh, there is no way in hell I'm changing around my suspension links and installing a track-bar.... This thing flexes beautifully and the stock steering sucks with or without a track-bar.

seems you plan a v8 someday?

to run the 435 setup and 203/205 doubler combos are you using 4xfab stuff to keep the current 4.0??

I have a 302 non HO w/SD, a NP435 and a NP203 and a NP205. It's all sitting in the shop waiting for me to clean and over haul this winter. Plus I need some time to save for a doubler kit.

I almost bought the 4xfab adapter so I could keep my 4.0L because my motor is still very powerful and tight (For a V6). Plus I liked the idea of keeping all the stock wiring intacted, BUT fuck it.... I want that V8 rumble and power now....

Atleast I'm not driving a Chevette!:laughing::flipoff2:


I don't know if you need stronger glasses, but I haven't driven a vette since b4 I knew you! :shaking:

What pumps have you looked into? Do you know which one your going to go with yet? I'm going to do an 8" ram too just don't know if I'm going to do a single or double ended. Most likely a double.

I grabbed a single ended dual action ram from Tractor Supply... It has a 2" bore and a 8inch stroke. They are easier to package and I saw a bunch of rockwell axled buggies at a truck show this saturday that were running the SAME (style)pump and same sized ram I went with. OH....and they were running MUCH bigger tires.

The pump I grabbed was from Advanced Auto, it's the cardone pump #20-6244. I personally think it's just a normal P-style saginaw pump with a bracket for converting it from a four bolt setup to a three bolt setup so we can bolt them to our rangers, or whatever else ford that uses a 3 bolt attachment.

I took this page (http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-Hydro_Steering/P%20pumps%202.jpg) from the hydraulic steering bible and ran all the applications through Advanced Auto and most all of them had the same basic part number. So we grabbed it off the shelf and it looked like the same damn pump just without the bracket/adapter to go from 4 to 3 bolts.

So we'll see how it turns out. I was supposed to work on it today but I've been kinda stressed the past couple weeks and figured I needed a day to do nothing but eat, sleep and relax around the pool with the wifey. So fuck it, I'll work on it sometime this week.

Good news got my hands on an SCU from a fork lift this week... ah I love when I get stuff cheap! $50 bucks you can't argue lol! Let me know how that pump does for you!

What kind of SCU is it?

What are the numbers?

you driving it yet??? updates

I've only had it tore apart for a couple days. Waiting for parts from summit so I can finish welding up my aluminum reserve tank.

In that order is also a steel bung that needs to be welded to the back of the new power steering pump so it's pulling fluid from the tank to the pump through a 1/2inch line verses whatever the stock line is...maybe 1/4inch?

Modified the PS pump (shortened the fill neck A LOT), have the SCU all ready, just need to weld in the bracket I made tonight, so all i need is those little fittings from summit and we're good.

White Rhino: I'll let ya know how it all works out. Hopefully good!

Not sure on the exact numbers yet. I'll find out when I pick it up.. gettin it off a friend of mine.

Back from Rausch yet? How did you make out?

Hey sry for the delay, haven't been here for a bit.

Raush was fun untill everyone that i went up to go wheeling with left sunday morning. Oh well, I met up with some guys from Greenlane area and went with them.

The hydro worked great until the saginaw pump blew out. The oil seal/bearing behind the pulley gave out and started leaking fuild all over. I think it is a problem with my SCU (orbital). I noticed (when the pump gave out) that the cooler was cold, shut the truck off and restarted it and then the fluid began flowing through the cooler again (it got very HOT). SOOOOO....I'm thinking the orbital wasn't allowing fluid to flow through in it's neutral position (none steering position) and the pump built to much pressure and cavitated until it over heated and died.

BUT it worked great in the morning...lol
just not in the afternoon... arg

Could you steer to get back to the trailer?

damn 300 dollar hydro systems:eek:

don't rule out a bad cardon pump. i'm on #3 and i only had 33's with stock steering. they are just shitty pumps. one of mine they didn't even clean the grime off of it before painting it. has anyone come up with a different bolt on solution?

I'm going to try and find some energy today (rough week at work) to remove the pump and replace it.

I think there is something else not working in my system. I don't think the orbital is allowing the fuild to pass through when I'm not steering. Time to research somemore...

any updates? new pump? whats the scoop

Plus I liked the idea of keeping all the stock wiring intacted, BUT fuck it.... I want that V8 rumble and power now....
ha, ha, ha I agree with you....

http://s44.photobucket.com/albums/f5/fly182/?action=view&current=P1050646.flv

I'm going with 5.0 HO AOD with low gear kit and doubler...

http://pic19.picturetrail.com/VOL1063/1029650/12885774/294027986.jpg
http://pic19.picturetrail.com/VOL1063/1029650/19919744/336780165.jpg

the problem was with the regular cab, gas tank was change and relocate, used one from broncoII

http://pic19.picturetrail.com/VOL1063/1029650/12885774/240742886.jpg
http://pic19.picturetrail.com/VOL1063/1029650/19919744/336781041.jpg

good job, I take some ideas for my project....

dude i forgot what tubing you are running for your lower links, i bent the shit outta mine which are 2" .25 wall DOM at the rubicon this weekend, i like it though they bent perfectly so it gives me more ground clearance

Hey White Rhino: I'm running 2" .25 wall tubing. When I do the rear I might do 3/8" wall... I dunno. We'll see....

ttyl

SO what's the update on this shit. You still broke or did you end up fixing it?

More pics!

Oh, and on your frontend, I have a Question. This can be answered by you or anyone else out there for that matter.

The way you did your 4 link is how I want to do mine (with the solid wishbone upper and whatnot.)

One thing I wonder, is since the axle does not go side to side at all, even a little bit...since you have that massive upper wishbone triangle link, when the axle compresses, does your drag link on your steering push your steering arm over and move your steering wheel a lot?

I would think it would unless you were running full hydro.....where there is no linkage connection between the steering and the axle....but I could be wrong. Unlike on a radius arm/3 link type where through the arc of the trac bar, the axle swings a little bit side to side along with the steering.....yours doesn't look like it would and may create a shimmy in the steerinwheel if you took somewhat of a hard hit. I don't know. Just something I have thought about.

I'm not knockin it at all, as I think the work you did is superb and should definitely be an example. That's just something I am wondering that maybe you could answer since I havn't seen a lot of other builds that use the solid upper wishbone type suspension. Most use a radius arm 3 link, a 4 link with a panhard bar, or leafs. I have seen barely any of the SAS's out there done up like yours. I see it on the rear a ton, but not the front. In fact, I don't think I have EVER seen it done like you did yours.

Looking good.

Hey zachis4wheeling:

Sorry I didn't reply on here sooner. I haven't even been updating anything lately.

I guess an update would have to say that I tore apart the sag pump and rebuilt it again (2 times now). I seems to be running okay, but I don't trust it at all. If it dies again, I'm gonna go back to the stock pump and see how that works.

Onto the steering Q:
Back b4 I installed my el' cheapo hydro system, the steering sucked. I don't even know where to start. Your correct about the geometry and how it would react. When the axle was flexed one way, I could hardly steer in one direction (I forget which it was) and when it was flexed the other way, it wouldn't steer the other way also.

So there was this time when I was stuck on a trail b/c I was flexed and couldn't steer the direction I wanted to go.

I'd have to say....of ALL THE THINGS to think about when I built this suspension....steering totally fawked me in the end.

Now that I have full hydro steering, I don't have any problems steering full lock-to-lock at any flex angle. It's amazingly easy to steer, which is good for your shoulders/neck after a long day.

TTYL

Looking good.

Thanks, duuuude




Oh, I ordered a doubler kit.... so that means I'm gonna start working on my 302/NP435/NP203/NP205 swap... ohhhh i can hear the V8 already :smokin:

sorry i never got back to you, if you want the fuel cell and misc goodies call me and we can work something out

Doubler kit came in. Looks perdy!

Haha, I called Kyle to tell him it came in the mail and everything looks good. I didn't realize it until my step sister made fun of me, but i told kyle he sent me a beefy shaft. (Apparently my step sister has a dirty mind, and I wasn't paying attention to what I was saying)

Here's some pics. 205 and 203 cleaned, sand blasted, primed and painted. Misc pics of each.

I'll post more pics when I get more finished this weekend. Still waiting on the 205 seal and gasket kit from NorthWest, hopefully kyle didn't forget until I called him when the doubler kit came in the mail. Haha, either way... it'll get here and I'll get to work.

My junkyard 205 was very nasty inside, the oil had turn into a yellowish varnish that had to be cleaned from every stupid little (big actually) bearing and roll pin bearing (whatever you wanna call them). ARG

looks bitichin, now put it together and go wheelin

HAHAHA.

I'm not taring my truck apart till EVERY part is here... and ready to go.

No more truck being disassembled for a year. :eek:

looks good.

Think you'll have it ready by summer? My club (mostly yotas) always heads down to PA to wheel, would be bitch'n to wheel with my near twin...

awesome build. i am thinkin of swappin my coils for air shocks, are you happy with that three link set up?

Get moving! I gotta 96 that your feeding ideas to at the moment. How streetable do you think your front suspension design would be with coilovers? Keep up the good work.
-R

looks good.

Think you'll have it ready by summer? My club (mostly yotas) always heads down to PA to wheel, would be bitch'n to wheel with my near twin...

It's wheelable now, I just don't have the new drivetrain in yet. I'll go wheelin with you guys. My friend Jon has a stock toyota with my old 35's on it, so he'll probably go also. He's fun to wheel with b/c he slightly crazy behind the wheel.

awesome build. i am thinkin of swappin my coils for air shocks, are you happy with that three link set up?

I am very happy with the suspension, just keep in mind that the steering will SUCK unless you convert to full hydro. If your gonna keep your stock steering (even with hydro assist) then change the links around and build a 3-link with a pan hard bar. The geometry won't work with this type 3 link. Learn from my mistake. I had to go with full hydro even though I wasn't ready yet. ( I was gonna wait a year or two)

Get moving! I gotta 96 that your feeding ideas to at the moment. How streetable do you think your front suspension design would be with coilovers? Keep up the good work.
-R

With coilovers? Probably a lot more streetable then with air shocks! LOL, A good sway-bar is the key.

Here's some recent pics

I know this is way behind, was looking at your trus setp on your front 60. Pretty cool. To TIG weld any carbon steel to nodular iron, or cast iron, get some 309 filler wire, it's a stainless rod. The nickle in there will bond and tie in beautifully to the iron. Got to run alot of heat though. Usually i run about 120 amps on my lincoln. Stainless, like chrome, does not move, you must use the tungsten to make the stainless puddle move. Occasionally preheating of the parent (cast iron or nodular iron) metal is necessary, as is a slow cool down to ambient temperature, that is let the weld cool off slow to room or outside temp. Great thread, good documention. Good stuff. 309s alot cheaper then the nickle alloy filler rod.

Thanks for the info on the 309 stainless filler rod. I'll have to order some and keep it aside for that purpose.

Updates?

yeah where the balls has this thread been im gonna bump mine up hahah

ttt

has this project died or something

Last time I saw him we were fetching parts at the junkyard for a 302 swap in this truck, but I dont think its gotten much farther than that recently.

Whats going on with this build.

Just read the whole build looks awesome but how do you like the air shocks?

This thread DIED when I bought a house. haha

A current update:

I have the 302, the NP435 (rebuilt) and the doublerkit finished. All I need is a clutch for the tranny and some time/ambition to work on it.

Buying a house is an incredible amount of work.
Oh and I started a business, so there goes my time!!!!!!!!!

Bought a diesel truck about a week ago, so i've been trying to gather parts for that now. My interests have moved on, but they will come back to this truck. Don't worry.

So did you get any time to finish her up???????????? You have to be settled in ur new place by now

It's been a very long time. But I have good news. Been working on the ranger for the past few weeks.

Current goal is to get the 302/np435/np203-205 installed and running so I can go wheeling this spring.

Spent a lot of time getting the wiring figured out on this EFI 302, but everything is good and it runs.

As of 10:30pm last night the truck is stripped down. Removed the bed and gas tank so I can mount the fuel cell, pump/filter and dovetail the bed. The engine, trans and t-case are pulled out also. Pulled off the front bumper, winch radiator etc etc.

Stripped the bitch. Next is cleaning ALL the wires and shit outta the truck and get down to basics.

updates.....

updates.....
x2!!!!

Updates: 302, NP435 and the 203/205 is all mounted in the frame. Working on exhaust this weekend. Picked up a new set of 42inch Pitbull Rockers to replace my 37inch Rockers. Ordered trail worthy fabs 8 bolt h1 rims with pressed centers and skull rock rings. Should be here in a few weeks. They are backed up with work, which is good! Means other guys like their h1 rims also.

Pics soon.

42x15x16.5's

Hows my cousin truck doing?

Tires look good, whats the time table for other work?

Clutch is in, wilwood slave cylinder is in, triple cable shifters from NWF are installed and the exhaust is almost finished.

Next is rewelding the orbital valve bracket to the frame.
Run fuel lines.
Mount radiator and find a taurus fan.
Mount fuel cell and plumb in.
Mount battery in the back and wire up.
etc etc etc etc etc etc etc...

woooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Read entire, thread today... very nice build. Can't wait to see it all done.

Read entire, thread today... very nice build. Can't wait to see it all done.

Been 5 years to date. Long process, but fun. A lot of things slowing it down or stopping it, but I never quit.

It'll be done in a month or two.

Hell yes

Last pic I took.