Per order of White Rhino and our PM conversations I'm starting my build thread.

Here is just some misc info of the truck
-1994 Ranger
-Extended Cab
-4.0L V6
-AL4D auto
-electric t-case

Before I decided to swap in the Dana 60 this is what I had under the truck...
-Dana 35 TTB w/4.56 and lock-right
-Currie 9inch w/4.56 and detroit (a lot more to it then just this)
-8inch coil lift from skyjacker
-3 inch body lift

I originally was going to use a Dana 44 fullwidth I had at the shop and sell the 78' HP Dana 60 to fund the Dana 44 SAS. But I soon realized that the 175 bucks I paid for the Dana 60 was never gonna present itself again, I decided to stay with the Dana 60.

My plans for this swap are as follows.
-78 High Pinion Dana 60
-3/4 ton brake conversion to keep my 37x13.5x15 Pitbull Rockers
-2.5 Fox air shocks
-3 or 4 link front suspension
-high steer arms
-ARB locker
-4.56 gear ratio
-possibly hydro assist (if i have ANY money left)

Here is some pics of the TTB...

Here is some pictures of the TTB stripped out...

Here the Dana 44 I was gonna use....

Here is the Dana 60 I decided to keep...

looking good man have you decided on the link set up yet? what you doing in the rear? are you gonna still run that 9? what spline is it?

I have a lot more info to post up here. I've been running a four link calc and I'll be posting my numbers and info on that soon.

The 9inch has 31 spline alloy axles so that should hold up till I get a 14 bolt from a van.

Gimmie a few minutes I have a lot more pics coming tonight

Here is the Dana 60 all cleaned up with the blackbird customs 3/4 ton brake conversion, new cragar 15x10 rims and my 37inch PitBull Rockers

right on how wide is the 9" also

When I got the 9inch built I got it to match the width of a factory Ford 8.8... If I knew I was gonna SAS the truck I would have ordered it full width. Oh well, I'll swap it into my 2wd 2002 ford ranger when i get the 14bolt.

Here is the axle under the truck... and stuffed into my small garage....

I wanted to use either a 4 link or a 3 link w/panhard bar. So either way I needed to box in the frame and possibly cut out the engine X-member.

I had a lot of "stuff" inside the drivers side frame that had to go. The fuel filter was there along with the fuel supply, return and vent. The brake lines where in there and also the antilock brake control was in there. ALL HAD TO GO...

To box in the frame I used that card board paper that students use for school projects, you know....that white thick card board...

Anyway, I traced out the frame pattern onto the card board and then I used a compass set to the thickness of the frame and traced around the pencil marks on the card board. That gave me a final piece of paper that fit inside the frame...

Then I transfered it to 10 gauge plate steel. The guy at the steel yard said 10 gauge is slightly thicker then 1/8inch, which is "closer" to what the frame is.

Here's some pics

Here's some pics of the metal pieces for the frame.

I used automotive primer to transfer the shape of the template to the metal for a more accurate result. I held the template down with four fingers near the edge and sprayed from high above straight down. I did this all the way around the template then let it dry which took maybe 5-10 mintues. It was far more accurate then a thick line left by a sharpie marker and reduced the grinding time when fitting it perfectly into the frame.

r u gonna leave the engine cross member there or get rid of it. im building a 96 ranger w/ hp 44,9inch, linked and coilovers. build looks good keep it coming.

what are you cutting with? I like where it going, did you rebuild that 60 aswell?

Here's the drivers side tacked and TIG welded. Also a pic of the front section of the passenger side. There is one more to go behind it.

Don't be ragging on the weld job, I bought a $100 Cebrora brand tig welder and was eager to use it. It goes to 100 amps, is a scratch start and has NO foot control. Very crude welder...

You'll see what I bought to replace that $100 tig welder later on in the posts.

The engine X-member is getting cut out. That next on the list as of right now (4-16-07).

I used a right angle grinder with a 5inch cut-off wheel.

Yes the Dana 60 got rebuilt. I have an ARB in the mail with 4.56's and a master install kit. The outter knuckles where completely rebuilt from bearings to the kingpins.

Here is the rear section of the passenger side...

Thats as far as I got with the frame so far.

I did however get some parts from summit. They make a cool little adapter that goes from the Ford EFI to an 8AN fitting. So I got this made....

Notice the guys from Nyco where able to remove the fitting that went on the gas tank and crimp the new braided line to it.

Oh, here's that EFI fitting....

I guess so far I've been waiting for PARTS!!!!!!!

Polyperformance was back ordered on their Currie Johnny Joints for like 3 weeks now. So when I get that order I'll have my frame brackets, my axle brackets, Johnny Joints, tube adapters, jam nuts, my nitrogen regulator to fill the 2.5 air shocks, 2 quarts of fox air shock oil, the little air shock syringe and probably some more stuff I forgot.

OK4wd is shipping my ARB, 4.56 gears, and install/rebuild kit.

Baja Concepts is shipping my 2.5 Air shocks which are also back ordered from FOX. (They were $50 per shock cheaper then Poly and shipping was only $20 from Cali to PA)

I have my 24ft of 2" x .250" DOM

All I need to do is order the High steer arms from Poison Spyder and TRE ends and some tubing for that stuff.

My 1.75inch die is coming in the mail from JD2 so my bender finally has a friend... That will allow me to make my shock hoops and my Transmission X-member. I have a cool idea for that by the way, because with as much drop as I'm hoping for, the driveshaft will hit the factory x-member.

AND best of all... I sold my Jeeo Cherakee for this...

damn thats a nice fawkin welder. i like where your going with it, it looks really good. cant wait to see some updates.

I've been wanting this welder for about a year!!!

I'm working on getting power to this welder. I got some 8-3 cable and I have some fancy 60amp 250V twist lock connectors coming in the mail. Once thats all hooked up I can fire that Miller up...

I don't know what I'll do this week. Depends on what parts come in first. Maybe I'll cut that engine X-member out, or at least post some pics of what my ideas are...

Time for bed, 2am is late when you got class in the morning...

dang you now eberyone will think your cooler than me hahahahaahaa i was content with my miller 250 now i have to upgrade

Looking good so far! Glad to see that you boxed the frame. Are you planning on drilling any holes for access or just leave it as is?

You guys... all I have is a 180 amp Miller Ac arc welder. Its like 30 years old, I wish I had some nice machines like you guys do

X2 For Me. I Use The Same MILLER To Tack All My Shiat Then Take It To My Buddies Shop And Use His Mig To Finish Weld. Must B Nice

i can't believe nobody said anything @ the bonus background.

i can't believe nobody said anything @ the bonus background.

I saw the calander :smokin: sweet. I hope thats what you were referring to

I'm probably not going to drill any holes in the frame for access right now. There is nothing that needs to go into it now....

Hey don't be hatin' on me b/c of the welder. I sold my Jeep to pay for it!!!

i can't believe nobody said anything @ the bonus background.

I saw it in all 5 pics.

hahahahaha i got a super deal on my mig $400 if you need to cut holes out later just use a plasma it would be way easier.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/mig.jpg

i still bet i'll out flex you :flipoff2:

hahahahaha i got a super deal on my mig $400 if you need to cut holes out later just use a plasma it would be way easier.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/mig.jpg

i still bet i'll out flex you :flipoff2:

plus he gets cool points for the "other" pics he posted.:smokin: :smokin:

hahaha

I think I'm gonna go cut out the engine X-member today...

Hopefully the motor doesn't join me on the floor...ha

:eek:

when you cut it out leave the motor mount are alone then weld those bracket on to the frame the rivets holding the coil buckets on support the crossmember any you will be grinding those off soon burn that fucker on my buddy mario cut his out and took off the coil buckets, but for go to weld them and they started movin all over the place

Damn buddy, no offense but were you really tired when you wrote that message???

I have already taken the coil buckets off twice before this. I had the coil buckets off when I installed the F-250 shock towers. I had to cut the factory shock mount off the coil bucket for that install.

I'll have to take a pic. of what I started. I basically drew a line from the bottom edge of the frame up to the motor mount. So when your looking at the front of the truck the cut mark goes up on around a 45 degree angle from the frame towards the engine.

Then when the engine craddle comes out I'll just trace out a template and plate the face of it with 3/16 steel. Kinda hard to explain...

But before I do that I'm plating the front of the frame where the "crumple zoon" is on the outside and inside. I cut off the front body mounts and I'll reweld them back on after its plated. Since I have the body lift on there I'll move the body mount up on its own bracket so there is just a bushing and no 3inch plastic puck. AND yes I'm keeping the body lift. It'll make it easier for the V8 and rewelding the exhaust...

hella tired then/now hahaha

Well I was gonna cut the engine X-member out, but I forgot I wanted to plate the front frame and put some tube X-members up there before hand. These pics don't show the new tube X-member, but it'll be there soon.

I made some templates, cut some steel and tried out my new tig welder. I tore the front of the truck apart so I could get in there and weld. I wish I had a welding helmet that fit TIGHT to my face... fuckin things get in the way...

The one pic also shows where I'm gonna cut the engine crossmember, let me know what you think... :D

Got some more stuff in the mail. Now I just need time away from school to work on it.

Got a 1.75 die for my JD2 tube bender and finally made the stand for it. I'll post pics of that maybe.

The right-handed johnny joints are back ordered again. All I have is the lefties. The frame brackets are backordered also.

right onnnnnnn Johnny joints make sure you mount the joint so the grease fittings are up i forgot mine are gone hahahahah

i don't think you said what you were cutting with. So you should tell us

Got beef. THose are some biiig johnny joints.

Hey looking good love it.I love to see rangers being built up. Not to highjack your tread but want to sell the old 35 front third member. let me know email me thanks

I'm just using a dewalt right-angle grinder with a 5inch cut-off wheel. I take the guards off and use the 5inchers instead of the 4.5inchers, not that it matters...haha

Yeah the JJ's are big and I like the fact that they are cheaper then heims.

Cool build-up so far:smokin: I'd like to ditch the engine x-member as well, damn thing gets in the way of everything.
Autofab makes some killer urethane motor mounts, i've been meaning to order some myself so it matches the trans mount I have of theirs.

EDIT: Just realised you won't need these if you're throwin' in a 302. Although Autofab does sell 302 motor mounts but you'd have to adapt them to fit the Ranger frame, obviously.

and johnny joints are rebuildable unlike heims

Any updates?

sweet, your in perkasie? Im right down the road. Nyco made my extended brakelines, awsome place. They did em right as I waited only cost me $50 for both.

And I see we both have good taste in welders

Id love to come take a look at this when its completed.

Question, im need to clearence my engine x-member as well for my anti wrap link, are you cutting and moving the whole thing up? I was just gonna cut the ridges off and put a plate on the bottom.

Yes I do!!!

The semester is coming to an end and Finals are a bitch, so work has been slow. Still waiting on a ton of stuff also.

Got some welding done. Ditched the engine x-member too...

sn0border88, where are you from?

When you were at Nyco did you see the picture of my truck on the back wall with the nyco sticker on it covered in mud?

ttyl

Here is the Dana 60 all cleaned up with the blackbird customs 3/4 ton brake conversion, new cragar 15x10 rims and my 37inch PitBull Rockers
Question about the blackbird customs brackets:
I assume they use chevy 3/4 ton rotors and calipers, is this correct?
If so, does it use the d60 hub?
If it does not, is it still possible to run 35 spline outer shafts?

Yes it uses the 3/4 ton rotors and calipers.
Yes it uses the Dana 60 hub. The 3/4 rotors are 8 lug and they match the 8 lug hubs. The rotor mates to the back side of the hub. I'll be running drive flanges and 35 spline outters by the end of summer.

The brackets bolt on IIRC the backside of the spindle, so they wouldn't effect the hub at all.

im from souderton, about 2 min from nyco.

I saw some pictures of trucks but I cant remember details.

Cool, when i get this finished we'll have to go wheeling

Hmm, you didnt happen to be at paragon on newyears did ya? There were 2 guys with red rangers I didnt know, plus a girl with a green explorer, my white one, a guy with a cutup sidekick, an xj and a striped tracker. The one truck we were with kinda looks like yours.

This is the local club we started. feel free to join in.

http://www.get-bentoffroad.com/forum/

how is that motor mount set up working. does it sag at all. looks like a good idea

sn0border88,
Nope, i wasn't there at PAP on newyears. I'll check out the club too!

gfbgreaser289,
I'll be honest, i'm wondering what it'll do when the frame flexes. I have only one tube in front of the crank pulley right now holding everything together. I'm going to try and move the radiator forward 3" along with the electric fan so I have room for another tube to arc from frame rail to frame rail between the electric fan and the engine. When I build the shock towers for the airshocks I'll be making a double or single tube brace/connector from tower to tower over the engine to help stiffen it up.

Maybe with all that it'll help keep everything strong.

Picked up next years project today at the scrap yard.

Went up to drop off aluminum cans and stuff for my dad and I got bored waiting in line so i walked around the corner of their shop and saw a van on the forks of their huge skid loader. Quick saw that it was a Corporate 14 bolt rear and asked the guy what was happening to the van. He said it on its way to get crushed, thats why its on the skid loader.

So I said STOP THEM!!!! I WANT THAT REAR AXLE!!!!

Here its the wider 14 bolt full floater. It measured 70 inches wms to wms.
So now I own a 14 bolt for 150 bucks...yay :flipoff2:

What about making a removable crossmember with urethane ends that attatch to tabs welded to each motor mount? Just throwin' out ideas:smokin:

mad boi,
Thats not a bad idea, I'll keep that in mind if I see anything funky going on with the frame when this thing actually moves.

I tacked the lower link brackets to the axle this afternoon and was thinking of ways to make a trust for the center link.

Any ideas anyone? I'll do some research, just thought i'd post also.

I wish I had a welding helmet that fit TIGHT to my face... fuckin things get in the way...


You can buy a sock hood or you may have the goggles, lense and bib from sleeves and build one cheap. I absolutely hate using them but they don't get in the way.
Build looks great.

http://weilerwelding.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/media/HUN25052.jpg

http://www.toolshopusa.com/mas_assets/images200/adf.jpg

http://images.orgill.com/200x200/6061303.jpg

http://www.ukwelder.com/shop/welding_leathers/images/weldas_7800.jpg

King.....Lovin' yer' Build!!!:smokin: Good to see some project threads here @ FOMOCO land.:p

I would just make a hoop to truss the diff and run plate from the hoop down to the axle to reinforce it.

Is that just rattle can paint, or is that rust eating shat? looks pretty spiffy in the pictures. almost like you sandblasted and then polished it haha.

I'm assuming you are talking about the knuckles.... I just used Rustoleum oil-based primer the "rusty metal" stuff and then got some silver truck/trailer paint from Tractor Supply and brushed it on.

I was gonna do green, but i don't own crane products.
I was gonna do orange, but i don't own denenbear (spelling?) products either.
I was gonna do red, but it would look dumb with the red truck unless it was the factory red.
So I figured when the axle and ALL components under the truck were painted gloss black, the knuckles would look cool as silver.

Thats my ONLY bling factor...silver knuckles...
I hate mud, so just the bottom will get rubbed off from rocks...

I went to BDU (Bearings & Drives Unlimited) which is right down the street from my house and got a second set of bearings for when I setup the gears in the 60. I got two carrier bearings and the outter pinion bearing.

Took them 1000ft down the road to the machine shop and he honed out the ID of the carrier bearings and the ID of the pinion bearing so they are a slip fit. This should make it nice and easy to setup the gears. The Billavista tech article said this would help alot.

Here is some short videos for ya if your bored. And if your on the ford forum lately your probably bored...
www.arking4x4.com/Videos/Pirate/PICT0005_new.wmv
www.arking4x4.com/Videos/Pirate/PICT0006_new.wmv
www.arking4x4.com/Videos/Pirate/PICT0007_new.wmv

lookin good...i did that with a set of bearings when i built my 44....makes it WORLDS easier and faster. Cant wait to see it finished. :smokin:

I just use a stone on my drill press, I have 60, 44 and 10 bolt sets that were all free used parts.

I couldn't use the old ones for "mock-up" bearings, they were HORRIBLE... I could feel the indent on the races with my finger where the bearing wore it away.

I got some pics of the 14 bolt I picked up yesterday.

You going to shave the 14 before you put it in?

Yes, but I'm not working on the 14 Bolt this summer. That will be next winters project. I'm running low on money with the D60 swap. But the good thing is, i start working full time again this tuesday. So i'll finish up the D60 swap and start working on swapping my 302/NP435/203/205 in the truck... so the 14 bolt is gonna sit.

sounds good man ill still out crawl you

White Rhino,
Your probably right about the out crawling thing. What is the low-low on that stubler you have? Probably close to 5:1 ratio right? When I get finished I'll have ~6.69x2.0x2.0x4.56=122:1 ratio if I did that right... Thats for the NP435/203/205/4.56 gears


Either way I'll be on the East Coast and you'll be on the West Coast and we can each tell our friends we are better then the other...haha

OK, on another note. I got the air shocks in today and they are beautiful!!! Here is some pictures. Enjoy!

hahahaha we will be almost exactly the same im friggin jealous of those airshocks its gonna flex like a mother make sure on the axle side to mount them is far in as you can you will make your flex that way i may be changing my set up soon to push them in more so i can outflex you hahahahaha

hahaha, gotcha.

On a serious note: Should I make the mounts on the axle and the hoops on the frame so the air shocks are vertical?

Thanks

if they are vertical at ride height they come in as the axle flexes, I dont know if this is good or bad but I would make the upper hopps as far in a possible and angle them out slightly. Tahts how I did my shocks at at full dropp its straight up and down andfront to back, at ride height its tilted out and foreward.

i would say close to vertical, but cycle the whole suspension marios truck's arishocks come within 1/2" when at full droop

OK, thanks guys

Here an update

Started welding the frame brackets on and moved the radiator forward ~3inches. Also, i bent up the axle truss tonight, but no pics of that now.

Still learning how to use the bender, only have 3 bends of experience as of now.

Tig welding I assume?

:grinpimp:

Did you buy that link bracket or did you make it?
Looks like the whole joint part is one bent piece with ears that go under the frame, then gussets added to the top.

PollyPerformance has a mount like that (it may be what he has in the pic). It's $35 per mount and it looks like a nice part.


Tig welding I assume?

:grinpimp:

Did you buy that link bracket or did you make it?
Looks like the whole joint part is one bent piece with ears that go under the frame, then gussets added to the top.

Yes tig welding, just got a miller syncrowave 200 a couple weeks ago, so i'm still learning and getting better each time.
Those are the polyperformance brackets, didn't feel like spending the time to make them, 35 bucks per bracket.

do you plan to weld the inside of the gussets or not?
I only ask because it looks like you dont have much weld area at the outside the two short (1/2") welds

looks like shit :flipoff2: just kidding :spam:

do you plan to weld the inside of the gussets or not?
I only ask because it looks like you dont have much weld area at the outside the two short (1/2") welds
Thats wayyyyy more than 1/2" of weld. Still Id weld the inside for sure

Yes, I'll weld the top side of the bracket. When I snapped the pic the frame and bracket was getting HOT and i wanted to let everything cool off for a while. Plus, i was jumping back and forth from the bracket to working on the radiator.

yeah obviously he will weld that drrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr! plate the top of that crap make it look all nice and flow with the frame

Question for you guys, well more like your opinion....on the front axle truss.

I planned on having 8 inches of vertical separation between the axle links. If you don't think that is enough, speak up before I cut it. I'll either cut it tonight or cut it tomorrow.

Thanks,

show me some pics of what you are talking about what kinda truss did you do? a single bend from top of the pumpkin to the tube plated?

Its a tube truss so i can weld tabs on for the wishbone top link...

I can't wait any longer... i need to do something to get this moving. If it doesn't work, fawk it...i'll buy more tube, bend it again and make it taller...

Thanks for getting back to me White Rhino, seems like your the only one on this ford section that gives a shit...

l8r

that should work just fine bro make sure to plate the inside around the diff if you dont snappy snappY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! also keep in mind a location for your Ram to mount off of it

I've got 8" on seperation on my long arms (I made RE style Y arms) and it seems to work pretty good.
7" is probably the min. you'd wanna go but your best bet is to get everything set up, whatever shocks you are going to run (w/o nitrogen) and all weld up your axle link brackets (not fully) and of course your links then flex it and see if anything binds. Of course you could figure out the 3-4 link calculator like I should have in the begining and do it right:shaking:

Here it is

Thank you mad_boi. Sounds like a good idea. I think the air shocks came from the factory with some nitrogen in them, I'll have to put a gauge on it and check the PSI.

i'd say cut a few inches off of the height thats just me though

Yeah it looks tall but ya gotta think...the JJ is going to be mounted behind the tube, not on top of it. That will give me the 8 inches of separation I was shooting for.

Let me get it tacked on and under the truck and I'll see how it looks.

Id lean towards White rhino on this one, and cut it down a couple inches, maybe even til you have too kinda "notch" the tube to fit the pumpkin, then you can weld the tube to the pumpkin too. Then mount your JJs on top of the tube.
The way it is now it looks like it may cause you some headaches with clearances. Also by lowering it you may be better able to locate your ram on the front side.

Looks really good by the way. Im lovin the nice brackets for everything.:grinpimp:

Well you guys are right. It's too tall. I got everything tacked up, sitting under the truck and I was able to see that it would work for my links. They'd hit the oil pan unless i went with a higher ride height, which isn't gonna happen.

So I made another truss after I saw another guys build thread. I think it's the same thing White Rhino was talking about. It has one bend and the straight end welds to the side of the differential. The top of the tube is as high as the top of the diff. So that dropped it down ~3inches.

The first two pics are of the old truss and the last pic is similar to what I made this afternoon. I didn't take new pics of the new truss yet. I'll have them tomorrow.

Question for you guys.... Do I need nickel-alloy filler rods for my TIG welder, to weld onto the diff or will normal rods work? I know they sell nickel-alloy rods when you are using a stick welder, do I need the same for a TIG?

Here is a pic of the new truss. A lot lower...

that looks alot better ive heard you are supposed to use the nickel stuff but not sure i would just burn it plate that bitch and make some little braces from the rear of the tube the plate to make it bullet proof

I found on the Dana 60 Bible that its made from Nodular Iron, and I also talked to "reddman" about how he welded his differential. So I got some good pointers. My welding shop sells nickle alloy rods for TIG welders but they are expensive and only come in 10 pound boxes. If I use a stick welder i can get a 2 pound box, so it won't cost toooooo much.

I tried searching for this topic, but eveytime I use the search it's slow, times out, or comes up with NOTHING close to what i started with.

your using a syncrowave? That should have stick capabilities.

The copper drag link ain't gonna last fer shit.:flipoff2:

Lookin good otherwise.

When you cut for your rad cap round it out.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=305720&stc=1&d=1179891890

A buddy and I did that same thing to his truck when we put the 302 in. How did you tie the lower part back to the coresupport? Still thinking of doing the same thing to mine.

http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w210/Mekcanix/Broncienstein011.jpg

cough garbage welds..

sn0border88,

I know it has stick capabilities, I just figured since i spent sooo much friggin money on this TIG i'd try to find some nickle-alloy filler rods for it. But after talking to a bunch of people I'll just end up using the stick welding rods.

Joel H,

That copper is the "K" copper and its for high pressure, i figured it would be good for high pressure rocks too!!! :flipoff2:

Do i have to make it all purdy and make it round for the rad. cap??? mmmm, i guess...but only if it'll help with HP and make it go faster over the rocks!:laughing:

I got some pictures of how I'm gonna tie the lower radiator back into the body. Here they are... They are not finished, there will be a peice that goes flat on the front and the bottom edge welds to the plate that you see in the picture.I'll either bolt it or weld it to the body, that way the bottom of the rad is not floppin around hittin stuff.

Joel H,

That copper is the "K" copper and its for high pressure, i figured it would be good for high pressure rocks too!!! :flipoff2:

Do i have to make it all purdy and make it round for the rad. cap??? mmmm, i guess...but only if it'll help with HP and make it go faster over the rocks!:laughing:

I got some pictures of how I'm gonna tie the lower radiator back into the body. Here they are... They are not finished, there will be a peice that goes flat on the front and the bottom edge welds to the plate that you see in the picture.I'll either bolt it or weld it to the body, that way the bottom of the rad is not floppin around hittin stuff.

We cut the lower part of the core support out and fabricated a new piece to go in.

Rounding off the cut out is a better idea. It will releave any stress points, from sharp corners. Also was made so that you can take the rad cap off if you have Snowmobile mitts on.:smokin:

I've seen a few cases of cracked core supports becasue of butcher cuts not finished off. The body does flex in this area.

Do you have a picture of that core support? I'm assuming by "core support" you mean the lower corners of the radiator. How did you modify yours???? The one on this truck is plastic and i see no way to cut and change it around... without getting into a mess of work.

That's a good point you had with rounding off the sheet metal on top of the rad cap. I didn't think fo body flex and whatnot, so i guess i will deffinitly do that now. I don't wheel during the winter (snowmobile mits)...thats the time I "usually" work on the truck and have NO money b/c of college.

Oh i'm a dumbass:shaking:, the core support is the body down around the bottom of the radiator. I was planning on bending some new sheet metal and welding a lot more strength back in.

I'm gonna shutup now...I'm tired from work

go my stubler :flipoff2:

updates??????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????

hmmmmm, painting/primering a couple small parts, got the radiator and all the brackets for it finished. Just waiting for paint to dry on those.

Cut the 3inch S.S. exhaust tubing for my intake. Ordered a silicone coupling so I can attach the mass airflow sensor to the new intake tube. Then I'll bolt up the air box. Just some more little stuff. Primered the brackets that are on the frame. Got some nickle alloy stick rods for free (for the diff) and a container of aluminum filler rods (not for free) but for practise.

Was out in Phittsburg this past weekend, so I couldn't work on it at all. I'll snap some pictures tonight. I'll get some stuff done this weekend. I'm not working on saturday.

So all in all I didn't get shit done.....:shaking:

Got some numbers here off the 4 link calc. (with the shorter axle truss)

Anti-Squat = 41%
Roll Center Height = 24 inches
Roll Axis Angle = 7 degrees
Instant Center = 4,832 inches (??)


Anyone care to let me know what they think????

Got a couple things done. Been real slow though. I try to do a little bit each night, but I'm tired from work.

Here ya go...

do you have full ranger of motion with that johnny joint looks kinda tight

do you have full ranger of motion with that johnny joint looks kinda tight

My thoughts exactly.

And your upper link is a tad on the short side. :flipoff2:

do you have full ranger of motion with that johnny joint looks kinda tight

Ever stop to think that maybe he's not done the mount yet? Surprized you didn't tell him his upper link looks a tad on the short side.:shaking:

:flipoff2:

Ever stop to think that maybe he's not done the mount yet? Surprized you didn't tell him his upper link looks a tad on the short side.:shaking:

:flipoff2:

Fixed :flipoff2:

I've heard that it's not the lenght of your link, it's how you use it.

I'll check to make sure I have full ranger of motion on that JJ. I didn't take notice to it till now. Thanks.

I'll do that tomorrow night, I'm fuckin tired. Ever install cast iron sewer pipe with lead and occume joints (spelling??) in the sun when it's 100 degrees and humid as hell. Boy do I hate outdated townships and their old school building codes.

The JJ has full range of motion in there. They are 2 5/8 mounting width and it moves without hitting anything. Plus, if it hit the metal then they would have to make the piece that the bolt goes through wider....duh

Don't remember this being posted yet...
What are you cutting your plate steel with? Like on your tabs, frame boxing... etc.

BTW, nice fit on the frame piece

I use an old dewalt right angle grinder (the new ones are junk) and usually 5inch cut-off wheels. Then I grind everything smooth so it looks good and is square.

On the plate steel I make templates and while holding them down on the steel I spray quick-drying primer around the template to transfer the pattern.

I'm trying to find a good used vertical bandsaw. I have a horizontal cutting bandsaw, but i don't like the cheesy table it came with for vertical cutting.

Thanks for the compliments
TTYL

you done yet?

ha..... HAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHHAHA.....





no!

I've been sooo fawkin busy (and tired) I'm starting to tell people to fuck off and leave me alone so I can finish this... I don't even want to talk about it, I'm going to bed now...

you could always just give up and let me have the 60. Ill even come pick it up. :flipoff2:

no worries im goin to the con in 2 weeks my doubler isnt in, front suspension is off and rear axle is torn apart

Well I got some stuff done tonight. Here's my progress. I had to drill a 1.75inch hole through the frame on the passenger side for a piece of tubing so I could slide the bolt into the bracket. The driver's side has enough room between the tranny and the bracket to get the bolt in. I'll eventually take the body mount off and weld the tubing to the frame and grind it smooth.

Damn... It must all be junk. I guess I'll tare it out and start over...:flipoff2:

Looks sick man. keep it up. i really like the tube through the frame... its turning out sick.

Damn... It must all be junk. I guess I'll tare it out and start over...:flipoff2:

I guess welding a nut or a tapping plate between the bracket and frame wasn't an option.:rolleyes:

yeah... that popped into my head too... :laughing:

I guess welding a nut or a tapping plate between the bracket and frame wasn't an option.:shaking:

I don't think you understand, there was not enough room to get the bolt into the bracket.... I left plenty of room for the nut to fit between the bracket and the frame. The hole in the frame was so the bolt could be inserted from the frame side of the bracket since it won't fit from the tranny side. The nut can be installed from either side.

Maybe I am slow like the rest, I did not have any idea of why you made it so complicated but I was sure there was some reason. Looks good like the rest of the build.

I gotta tell ya man, this buildup really does look like something worth keeping an eye on. I gotta couple questions for ya:

1) You planning on running Johnny Joints throughout your frontend? Or are you running a combination of them and something else?

2) What are the lengths on your upper and lower arms?

3) Did you have to do anything special to the pig when you welded to it?

4) What are you planning on doing for the rear suspension?

Looks good though....pretty much what I want to do to my truck. I just about have all the parts lined up; only thing holdin me up now is I have no place to work on it. My dad is supposed to be adding on to his barn soon though so maybe then, I'll have a place to work on it.

EBSTEVE,
Thanks for the compliments. I didn't purposefully make it difficult it just ended up like that :D , the uppers had to be at a certain height for the 4link calc to poop out some good information, like anti-squat. It's not really that bad, just time consuming. I only have a little bit after work to work on it before I start getting really tired, and I try to keep "working on my truck" as fun as possible.

zachis4wheeling,
Thanks for the compliments. To answer your Q's...
1) I'm running JJ's on both ends of the lowers, and on the upper i'm running a JJ on the axle end. The frame end is bushings like you see in the pictures.
2) The lowers are like 50-52 inches and the uppers are 33-35. I honestly don't remember what they exactly. I can measure them if you want.
3) When I welded to the nodular iron center section I preheated to 450, quick welded around the tube and heated it again for like 15 minutes keeping the temp around 450. Then I let it cool slowly...
4) My "plans" for the rear suspension are to remove the factory gas tank, install a fuel cell so I have room for a true triangulated 4 link. I'll probably buy 2inch air shocks if I end up liking the 2.5inch I'm gonna run in the front when it is finished. The frame will be cut off behind the tires and by that point I'll have convinced myself that cutting up the body panels for a dove tail and bob is worth it... or... I'll remove the bed and tube it to and through the cab. As i said b4 these are "plans"...

EBST It's not really that bad, just time consuming. I only have a little bit after work to work on it before I start getting really tired, and I try to keep "working on my truck" as fun as possible.




The story of my life! I went in an hour and a half early just to stay late an hour, but at least I did not get a lunch break to make it all worth it. I have crap to do so I won't get to the garage until about 10pm and I need to be up at 4:30am again tomorrow.

How exactly do you setup that front suspension? Any pictures of what gave you the idea?

Big91RustyBucket,

I did a lot of research on this forum, read a lot and saw a couple peoples ideas and went from there. I took a little from each person and mix it together on my truck. I got the idea for air shocks from White Rhino and his buddies truck, got the idea for the front axle truss from one of the pictures I already posted in this thread and the rest was just research on websites like ployperformance for parts.... I also have a friend that lives around me that is really into off-roasd suspensions and I spent a lot of time talking to him about stuff (probably annoyed him in the process).

got my crawler boxes in dude ha!!!!!!!!!!!!

Btt

you are gonna love the doubler

Well here's an update... I'm back in school and have tons of time to work on it now!!! :p

I'll let the pictures do the talking. Only problem I see is the steering. I'll post pics next. Oh... and I love being full width now

ltr

I'll know better when POSION SPYDER ships me my damn steering arm. I only waited 4 months for the drivers side and I don't know what I'm gonna do for 6-8 weeks while I wait for the passenger side.
Sry.

OK, back on topic here. I think the steering links are going to hit each other unless i find a pitman arm with no drop. I'll have to make something work untill I have the money for full hydro, which won't be for a long time.

Here's some pics.

love it all. nice work. do you have a good picture of how the air shock mounts to the frame? engine cage in going in too? oh and do you know offhand what the angle is on the airshocks-or how far outboard you placed them on the axle vs the frame? I would appreciate it. keep up the awesome work.

Would it work if you ditched the TRE at the pitman, drill it out to use a rod end and mount the draglink on top of the pitman?

Would it work if you ditched the TRE at the pitman, drill it out to use a rod end and mount the draglink on top of the pitman?

thats exactly what my friend just did when he SAS'd he yota, the links were hitting in mock up so he ordered his pitman arm reamed out from the top, works good now.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a284/amatoer10/summer%2007%20stuff/P1010780.jpg

also i think our trucks should be twins....

http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v113/107/64/9111361/n9111361_34595859_411.jpg

hmmm,
I didn't think about using a rod end on top of the pitman arm... good idea.

I also like the idea of reaming out the pitman arm from the top down like that toyota, that way I can keep the nicely painted TRE I already own.

Thanks for the ideas guys.

icb12:
I made a temporary engine cage from 2x2x.25wall tubing to hold the weight of the truck. When it's driveable I need to flex test the suspension and see if I need to move the air shock mounts up/down/front/back, so I just want you to know its temporary and will get changed for a tube shock tower/engine cage contraption. BUT I'll take pictures of it tomorrow for ya. As far as angle? They're leaned back slightly, but I just slapped them on, no science behind it...sry. I'll get more technical when I can flex it on something and see where things go.

FbOmRxD:
I like your truck, looks good. It has a good stance and unlike mine it's probably street legal. I looked through your website, looks like fun!

TTYL

also i think our trucks should be twins....
http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-sf2p/v113/107/64/9111361/n9111361_34595859_411.jpg

Yeah pretty close...nice front bumper:p

What do you got for rear lift? Is the bed bobbed?

Sorry, hijack over King:D When you do your flex test i'd try out the TRE on the top of the pitman with the nut hand tightned and see how the clearance is on the draglink.

haha the front bumper is just temp...i have one of the smittybuilt winchs sitting in my apt here at school, next few weeks i'm heading up to the shop and making a tube stingerish winch bumper for it...

The rear lift is 63" chevies with the belltech shackles + stock block...does pretty good, sits a liiiiitle lower than the front but with the winch + bumper it should be fine.

http://photos-361.ll.facebook.com/photos-ll-sf2p/v113/107/64/9111361/n9111361_34600148_760.jpg

thats still with rear shocks that are to short and no wristed arm...it does better now.

The bed isn't bobbed YET....the hole bed floor where it connects to the fenders is cracked so soon its going to get dovetailed i think, clearance cut, etc etc etc

ok sorry king, enough of the hijack!

Why would you beat on such a beautiful truck, cut it up and modify it soo much!!! Horrible!!! :eek:







:flipoff2:

lookin good man, I like how low it sits really nice ride height

you finish yet

i like the build as well. i just read all 7 pages.

Waiting for Poison Spyder to send me my damn high steer arm. If I would have known it was gonna take 6 months to get the passenger side I would have ordered from another company.

Been busy with school (Chem II, Physics I and Calc II) and putting a clutch in a 94 mazda b3000 for a friend.

Also been looking at a 1950-52 Willy's truck for sale in my area. My dad and I want to restore it, lift it and cruize around town.

there was one at harrys in pennsburg, dont know if its still there.

cancel the order posion spyder sucks balls my buddy canceled his and got new ones from KOZoffroad i think got them in a week

I would, but I already have one installed. Just waiting for the other. The ones from poison spyder are thick as hell and powder coated. Those arms from KOZ are cheaper but look thinner.

I dunno, I don't feel like taring this arm off and sending it back... I just won't order anything from poison spyder again.
I love ordering from polyperformance, their shit ships across the country in 3-5 days and always correct.

Got the mazda finished and now I'll get back on the ranger...

is pimp sky MFG arms, their shiz is beefy. I think some other people are having probs with posion spyder now, check out the bad vendor section.

powder coating the arms makes them unsafe! they need to be metal to metal so they dont loosen up at all The KOZ ones are beefy or go to partsmike

Any update

Very nice build.... Updates?

Yeah, told poison spyder customs to send me a return shipping label and I'm sending their fawking high steer arm back....

I called today to see where the hell my steering arm was, I only ordered it 8-9 months ago, and they said it would be another 3 months to get the other arm i need b/c they had a problem with the batch of arms they made.



I just don't understand why a company that makes very expensive rock crawling buggies, supports this website, and it is all over every mag. i subscribe to can't get a $130 dollar high steer arm machined and mailed to a customer within 12 months? I know I'm bitching a lot but I've been patient enough so far...

told you bro they suck ass

I would of asked for a refund on both of them a long time ago.

Guess what I have.......

A TRACKING NUMBER!

for a high steer arm I ordered probably 12 months ago.

Poison Spyder SUCKS!!!!!!!!!
Never order from them. Trust me, bad company to deal with...

Well I got the steering arm on friday and got to work asap after school was finished.

Here's some pics...

The last pic is showing the drivers side front exhaust port, the top bolt broke in the head. I broke one "easy-out" and had to eventually drill and retap. It was metric also, M8 1.25

how much shaft are you gonna have showing on the air shocks? id aim for 3-5" with good bumps

I will, it's up on house jacks right now, thats why it looks extended...

Got a shit load of work done this weekend.

-Headers on with ~3ft of tailpipe behind them. (not finished)
-Welded in the bungs for the 02 sensors.
-Engine dip stick.
-Trans dip stick.
-Hooked up all electrical connections that were taken apart for this project.
-Coolant system hooked up and filled.
-Tranny lines ran with cooler and filled.
-Power steering lines hooked up with cooler and filled.
-Steering links welded together.
-Steering arm installed with ARP studs also.
-Diff cover on, just for fun.
-Battery installed.
-Engine oil filter housing installed.
-Rear driveshaft yoke protector installed, again...
-Tightened new fuel lines.
-MAS installed on new S.S. intake tubing

I fired the truck up for the first time in a freaking year and it sounded great with just 3ft of open pipes on the headers. Next is filling the transfer case, grinding the calipers down for the rims to clear and brake lines to the front axle, bleed the breaks, then drive it to the shop and install the gears, locker and finish the exhaust.

Got a lot done, but still a lot more to do.

1st pic: I had to cut the 02 sensor out, patch the hole and move it to another location.
2nd pic: Weld patch
3rd pic: Cut out 02 sensors
4th pic: Fancy ARB diff cover that took 9 months to get.

The exhaust took the longest time b/c the drivers side had a lot of wiring, speedo cables, trans cables and bullshit in the way, so I did a lot of cutting and recutting to get the pipe as high as possible. I used parts from the original Y-pipe and the 02 sensor bungs.

Enjoy...

looks good i like the diff cover. you back in school? i hate my classes this semester fuck schoollll

Yeah, back in school. Being a slacker this semester though... only Physics II and Calc II. This way I can work tuesdays and thursdays for $$$$$

very nice build! how does that WB wheel? i just went from a 101" Xj to 126" ranger and im a little worried im going to rip my hole damn truck apart gettin it down the trail:eek: Keep up the good work! That ARB is big pimpin!!

Whats the pertolium jelly for ? :flippoff2:


Nice build mang. I gotta get me one of those ARB diff covers.

what the balls? what ranger has a 126" wheelbase? mine 116 after i stretched the front 4 inches

Build is comming along great, looks nice.

Yeah, back in school. Being a slacker this semester though... only Physics II and Calc II. This way I can work tuesdays and thursdays for $$$$$

And fawk you, i'm taking 6 classes this semester...doing Linear Algebra for fun :flipoff2:

what the balls? what ranger has a 126" wheelbase? mine 116 after i stretched the front 4 inches

a supercab 6ft bed:flipoff2:

Why the double sided arm if your running both the tie rod and the draglink in the front?

Are you using a foot pedal or thumb controller?

JP

rockin92xj:
It wheels fine, I'll let you know better this season how it wheels hard stuff. I have not had a problem with getting hung up on the middle, the frame usually just slides over stuff.

94stepsideford:
HAHAHA, I love how you guys find stuff to talk about in the background of pics, you guys caught that poster of the strip club earlier this year! Keep up the good work. The jelly was to get the new 3inch intake tube and the factory rubber gasket/clamp on the throttle body.

WHITE RHINO:
My ranger stock has 125inch wheel base, or maybe it's 126. Honestly

FbOmRxD:
Hey, thats why I said I was being a slacker. I would have taken more classes but they were pver lapping and I couldn't schedule correctly. Plus, I can't stay awake in night classes.

redranger4.0:
The double ended arm is the result of me bitching and bitching at Poison Spyder to get me the fucking HS arm I ordered 11months ago. I ordered a single but they sent me a double to shut me up, plus it's all they had....since 11 months ago. Those fuck tards...

strong_like_tractor:
I assume your talking about the TIG welds? It's a foot control.



How do you guys do the Quote thing and have it say "Originally posted by:" in there also....

multi quote and quote button on the lower right of the post.

How do you guys do the Quote thing and have it say "Originally posted by:" in there also....

Hit the quote button. :shaking:

Stick to workin on your truck. :flipoff2:

multi quote and quote button on the lower right of the post.

Hit the quote button. :shaking:

Stick to workin on your truck. :flipoff2:


Haha, ok... I think I got it now...:flipoff2:

This is my current problem, I tried for an hour now to research and finger it out but I can't...

I can't get the pads to fit, heres a picture to explain....

I sent a PM/message to Blackbird Customs because there might be something that I didn't do correctly here.

On their website while looking at the pictures for the "Chevy, Dodge & Ford D60 3/4 ton 8 lug front Diff Small Caliper Brackets" kit, their is a different caliper shown and the brackets look different. I couldn't copy the picture, the "Function Disabled" wouldn't let me. I ordered this a year ago, so who knows whats wrong. My setup looks more like the one below it.

Here's their site address:
http://www.blackbirdscustomtrucks.com/index25.html

I sent you a PM, but it would be better handled if you called us or us calling you..
We'll get you taken care of.. No worries..

YOU GUYS ROCK!!!!!!!!! Thanks for taking care of me! Just got off the phone with Randy.

FYI: I didn't post these pictures as if I were mad or bitching about your company, just wanted to post up and see if it was something I over looked or did wrong myself.

I haven't talked to Randy today, but he does get worried sometimes about nothing...:D

Not every axle is the same as most would like to think. This is proof and proof we will not just leave you as a one time customer. Once a customer.. Always a customer..

Thanks for going with us..

wow. thats service. i have not bought from you guys yet, but that kinda service makes me want to order something from you right now.:D

Talked to Randy (again) this afternoon between 3:00 and 4:00 (East Coast time) and it was a great conversation. We talked about a lot of things. We talked about my brakes, the brakes I'll eventually get for my GM 14 bolt, the new tools in his shop and the new brake kits available soon and I happened to mention my unfortunate experience with Poison Spyder Customs.

Great guy to talk with!!! I'm happy to see people like that and sad to have to deal with a company like Poison Spyder.

We actually figured out that I also have a bad caliper. My drivers side caliper was a bad casting or forging (which ever it is) and was about a 1/4 inch narrower then the passenger side caliper.

It's amazing how I didn't see any of this (the caliper) since I bought the parts January 07. Can you blame me? I haven't had the need to put brakes on a project that wasn't driveable.

Either way, I'm just happy that Randy is willing to take care of me and I'm happy that Advanced Auto took back their caliper and ordered me a new one with no hassles. So hopefully this weekend I can drive the truck!...and stop it! HAHA

Happy Ending!

Drove the damn truck today, kinda weird driving something I haven't driven in a year. I made it outta the garage with 0.5inch to spare. Drove it down to our plumbing shop/barn where it sits now. Then spent the rest of the day making trip from my house to the shop with p/u truck loads of tools and JUNK. I'll take some pics tomorrow.

I hate the stock ford steering pumps, maybe nows a good time to look into hydro assist. I can't even turn lock to lock without the pump dieing. Maybe that double steering arm is a good place to mount a ram on the back of the axle.

I love how soft the air shocks are, really smooth as I drove ~5mph to the barn...haha

This is just one reason I've been recommending Blackbirds for years. I had no idea they were a vendor on here though, sweet :smokin:

Yea, throw on a sag pump and hydro-assist it, you'll love it.

nice build, but now my woman is pissed because i was suposed to be in bed ages ago but i got sucked into this thread

hey love the build just seen it for the first time and had to read all of it, just outta curiosity do you have any of the old stuff ttb

This is just one reason I've been recommending Blackbirds for years. I had no idea they were a vendor on here though, sweet :smokin:

Yea, throw on a sag pump and hydro-assist it, you'll love it.

What vehicle would be a good choice if I were to get a sag pump and weld up some brackets to make it fit my lil' ole' V6. I'm currently searching Surplus Center and reading some threads about hydro assist steering.

hey love the build just seen it for the first time and had to read all of it, just outta curiosity do you have any of the old stuff ttb

I sold all the front TTB setup as soon as it came off the truck.

What vehicle would be a good choice if I were to get a sag pump and weld up some brackets to make it fit my lil' ole' V6.

If you start peeking under the hoods of chevy trucks in the boneyard you'll find one easily. They are also found in other applications (I got my original one out of Ford van) but they are most commonplace in the chevy trucks.

Thank you Proeliator.

I took some pics when I was at the shop today. Here is one.

Nice! I came across your build today and read the whole thing! I got a ranger I'm putting a 79 hpd60, 14bff, with a 302, c6, 203/205, one links front and rear, and 18" air shocks as well. I"m just waiting on a few things b4 I get on the building aspect.... I just noticed though that you need a flat pitman arm which I did too but i got one off a truck I parted out... an 84 f-150 is where I got mine from. Try that there might be other trucks and years that have them but this was a 4x4 and my bro took some stuff we sold other stuff and I took a few things like the alt for an on board welder and that flat pitman arm.... My truck is even lower then yours and I plan to run 44's! Hope that helps with your search for a flat pitman arm!

Hey I got a question for you.... That kit from black bird... Do you just bolt them on in place of the stock caliper mounts? Then instead of using ford rotors you use 3/4ton chevy stuff right? Is there any machining on the rotors or anything to make them fit on the back side of the hubs? I have been looking for caliper mounts for my 79 d60 for 2 weeks and can't find any so i'm just gonna go with the 3/4 ton stuff if it's that easy.. I also read on the d60 bible that all d44 ford stuff will fit on a ford d60! So the caliper mounts, rotors, all that fits on a d60? I got a line on a tons of the hd 44's so that may be the way to go unless some one can fill me in why I shouldn't do that... My current 60 has no brakes so I can run what ever I want right now... I should do it right the first time.. What would you guys run? I don't need to fit a 15 but if it does that's cool too! Thanx for the help.
Hy jack over

I tried that D44 stuff on my D60 and it didn't work for me. I even ground parts of the knuckle and brackets, it was a disaster and I got so mad I just ordered the kit from B.B.C.

The kit I got was easy and bolt on. Take the spindle off, remove the factory brake bracket, slide on new bracket, then spacer and remount the spindle.

Remove ford factory rotor from hub and go buy a 3/4ton chevy rotor. Also buy some new wheel studs, now is a good time to do it right. Remount rotor to back of hub and your set!

No machining of rotor either.



Think about this, your gonna waste more time then you think fawking around with that D44 stuff. PLUS, your still gonna either need new rotors or get something milled down (aka cleaned for new pads, remove rust, etc) and new calipers, so instead of buying new D44 stuff, just buy chevy stuff and the brackets.

You've seen the pics in here, so you know how it'll end up if you go with the B.B.C. kit and call it done.

TTYL, let me know what u did...

OH! drove my junk yesterday in the snow (~1-2inches, yeah our winter sucks this year) and did some good donuts in the street.

I think I need to adjust the steering stops on this axle, it hits the stops quick and I feel like I'm not turning that sharp

Perfect thanks a lot man... I'm just gonna go the bbc brakets and call it a day! Their cheap and so is the chevy stuff! Thanks for all the info.... What studs did you upgrade to? I'm getting my drw hubs machined into srw hubs right now and so I will need to drill the holes accordingly in the hubs... Wut size stud (and part number if you got) and what size hole did you drill?

I looked through my info when I bought all that stuff from Advanced Auto and the part number is 98256

Here's a link...
Wheel Stud (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=DOR&MfrPartNumber=98256)

Don't worry, they have a generic brand for those with the same part number and they're only $1.98 instead of $9.99

Specifications:
Head Code: 279
Knurl Diameter: .608 in
Thread Pitch: Right
Shoulder Length: 15/16 in
Thread Size: 1/2-20
Length: 2-1/4 in
Type: Serrated Stud
Features: Zinc plated for corrosion resistance


So I drill a hole slightly smaller then the knurl correct? 15 thou or something? what did you drill yours to?

Can't really answer that, I didn't drill mine at all. They were just the replacements for the chevy rotors... and they just fit the ford hub.

Sry, maybe a machinist friend can help here....

Nice.

Two questions King:

1. Any update on the steering pump/hydro assist? I am curious if you can drill and tap the factory ranger box. Also, what about brackets for said new pump?

2. What headers did you choose to run on the 4.0? Pics?

Thanks

nice! lookin good man, I'm definitely gonna be watching this. Got a SAS coming up on a buddy's Ranger this spring.

Two questions King:

1. Any update on the steering pump/hydro assist? I am curious if you can drill and tap the factory ranger box. Also, what about brackets for said new pump?

2. What headers did you choose to run on the 4.0? Pics?

Thanks

I'm in the process of researching the steering pump problem. I was talking to Joel H through PM's about it, he gave me some good info.

About tapping the factory ranger box? I'm pretty sure it's easy to do, considering the same box was used on all of these vehicles...

FORD
1980 - 1996 BRONCO
1980 - 1983 F-100 PICKUP
1984 - 1990 BRONCO II
1980 - 1996 F-150 PICKUP
1982 - 1983 E-100 ECONOLINE
1980 - 1997 F-250 PICKUP
1982 - 1996 E-150 ECONOLINE
1980 - 1997 F-350 PICKUP
1982 - 1996 E-250 ECONOLINE
1990 - 1997 F-450 SUPER DUTY PICKUP
1982 - 1996 E-350 ECONOLINE
1997 F53 STRIPPED CHASSIS
1991 - 1994 EXPLORER
1983 - 1997 RANGER

MAZDA
1994 - 1997 B2300
1994 - 1997 B4000
1994 - 1996 B3000
1991 - 1994 NAVAJO

I got this info from this website (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=277516&PartType=255&PTSet=A), and clicked "See all vehicles this product fits " (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=A1C&mfrpartnumber=277516)

Here's a link to a site where they tapped for Hydro Assist, probably the same site I'll follow when I do mine
Ford box getting hydro assist (http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10413&highlight=steering+box) (It's the same box we have in our ranger's)

As for brackets for the pump? What I found so far is this:
The Cardone pump #20-6244 Here (http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=206244) will bolt up to the same bracket on the 4.0L but you have to do some grinding to the bracket to make it fit... (I'm assuming it's a saginaw pump)
Read this article Here (http://www.cardomain.com/ride/477871/11) about how this guy did it.

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Headers? Hmmm, I've had them on there for YEARS, but they are Pacesetter brand and ceramic coated. (Ceramic coating didn't last long, so I can't recommend it)

With the upper wishbone link I had to cut up the Y-pipe and weld in new O2 bungs so it wouldn't get smashed by the upper link. Basically I ran both sides straight back for ~3ft untill I have time to finish it or remove the gas tank and bring the two pipes back together behind the T-case and then go into a muffler. If I leave the gas tank in it's stock location I'll have to do some funky tube work to get the driver's side exhaust up and over the T-case to avoid the driveshaft in the rear and the PLASTIC gas tank.

Pics? I can't find any. Just look them up on pacesetters website... or I can take pics if you want...

TTYL

I'd also be interested in wut pump as I will be doing a hydro assit on mine... I knew the box was the same as f-150's and stuff so I already have that exact article to tap mine! It's good and pretty clear and straight forward. I know joel H personally as he lives in the same part of town as me so I will have to chat with him and see wut he recomends... only thing is I need stuff for a 302!

Well you have it better then us... Companies make brackets for the sag pumps to bolt to the factory 302 brackets, so NO grinding and "makin'-it-fit" bullshiat.

I'd also be interested in wut pump as I will be doing a hydro assit on mine... I knew the box was the same as f-150's and stuff so I already have that exact article to tap mine! It's good and pretty clear and straight forward. I know joel H personally as he lives in the same part of town as me so I will have to chat with him and see wut he recomends... only thing is I need stuff for a 302!

Well you have it better then us... Companies make brackets for the sag pumps to bolt to the factory 302 brackets, so NO grinding and "makin'-it-fit" bullshiat.


Depends what belt you run. Most if not all E150's run the saginaw pump. Both serp system and v-belt. All the brackets are available. FWIW I have a bracket from a 302 serp setup if you want it. It came with the pump I pulled.

The AGR pump looks to have a GM resevoir can on it. It is clocked different than the Ford pump I have and it's similar to the GM one I have. Another source for the saginaw pump is Dodge. Nearly all the V8 Dakotas got one. I haven't looked at it close enough to tell what the clocking is and how different the return line is.

When I talk about the Saginaw pump I'm talking about the tear drop resevoir one. The Cardone pump is a saginaw made pump as a direct replacement for the Ford plastic resevoir pump. There is no application specific pump with this one. You may get lucky and find one in the wrecker, if and only if someone knew about this pump. $170 cardone pump or $60 Saginaw pump.

I'm working on a bracket to bolt the teardrop pump to a 4.0L. I have the geometry set, just need to find out why the pump isn't pumping with pressure. i think it's a bad pump to start. Maybe this weekend I'll finish it off.:smokin:

The build is looking good King. Now time to link the rear.:D

The build is looking good King. Now time to link the rear.:D

haha, I think I'll wheel it for this summer and gather parts for next winter. I have to pay down some bills (non 4x4 related) before I spend anymore money on this truck (besides hydro assist and a driveshaft:flipoff2:)

Went junkyard hopping... took my D60 yoke with me, its a 1410. It's hard to find scrap driveshafts that use a u-joint 4 3/16 wide with a 1 1/8 cup. I found a shaft on a F700 hauler truck flatbed thing, but the caps had a larger diameter.

Maybe I can get a u-joint with 1 1/8 caps and 1 3/6 caps

Here's some poser pics I took when I was at the shop.

Hey, that fawker looks real good. And the fab. work on it is real clean which makes it all the more better. Not to hijack yur thread, but I actually just picked up an 87 F350 parts truck that actually runs. So hopefully soon I can get started on this SAS thing and FINALLY get wheeling again soon. The truck's gotta 351w/C6/BW 1356 T-Case -w- a HP Dana 60 kingpin frontend and a trashed Sterling 10.25 rear. I picked up a Dana 70 rearend with 4.88 gears and gonna have the front axle ratio matched to the rear.

What brand/model of welder you using on yours?

Oh, and before ya go blowin anymore donuts, ya might want to take the pliars outta the front framerail......

What brand/model of welder you using on yours?

Oh, and before ya go blowin anymore donuts, ya might want to take the pliars outta the front framerail......

HAHAHA, it's funny you mention that! All my friends have been pulling those out saying "hey man, your gonna loose these!" and we just stick them back in!

The welder is a Miller Syncrowave 200, best tool I ever purchased to date. Next will be a MIG like my friend Alan, he's got a nice 220V Lincoln Electric machine and I love it. Never used it but it looks like a quality machine.

looks good dude, looks like you can go wayy higher too

Hey White Rhino,

I have to mess around with the rear leaf springs, I have those goofy Tera-flex revolver shackles from an XJ and they never unload (open up) like I've seem them do on Jeeps.

I'm thinking since I need to lift the back ~2-3inches to level it with the front, I can always try a simple longer shackle and get rid of those tera-flex shackles.

I've still got a lot of little things to work out here and there

dude seriously ditch those revolvers they are garbage. Inboard some 63" chevy's and you will be really happy

I just bought a cardone 206244 pump for my 89 5.0L crown vic motor (it bolted right on).

It was only 65 bucks plus 45 core charge from partsamerica.com. Advance Auto parts took the original plastic pump back as a core but I haven't yet received credit for it.

My only fear running full hydro with this pump is the tiny inlet on the pump even though it has a reservoir. So the cap and about an inch of the res. below the cap are getting chopped off and a plate is getting TIG'd on w/ a large fitting to allow fluid to feed more freely back into the pump.

I'm not 100% sure but I think the cardone 206244 pump is a retrofit "extreme duty" pump to replace some of the the dismally performing, non-saginaw ford pumps. If that's true it probably cannot be found in junkyards.

I didn't want to spend any money on the funky 3/8" swivel o-ring fitting line (that I couldn't easily find in-stock at the NAPA that I usually buy from) which would have to be cut up and modified to work with my $$ hydrolines so we used some silicon bronze rod to TIG the old 3/8" line into the "banjo block" that bolts to the pump. I'll post up in my build thread how the pump performs here soon.

okay, cool

I have a smallblock np435 sitting in my shed. Dad wants it gone, you interested?

I would but VT is too far to drive for it, even if it was for free.

Thanks for the offer though!!!

If you start peeking under the hoods of chevy trucks in the boneyard you'll find one easily. They are also found in other applications (I got my original one out of Ford van) but they are most commonplace in the chevy trucks.

dont forget the bolt in one from Cardone 20-6244
http://www.cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands/imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=20-6244

lets see if i can hotlink an image
http://www.cardone.com/Imagesftp/20/206244-01.jpg

dont forget the bolt in one from Cardone 20-6244
http://www.cardone.com/English/club/members/customer/ecat_brands/imageinfo.asp?PARTNUM=20-6244


Are those relatively inexpensive? Probably so, and that being the case that would be a better option than scrounging an old one.

napa has them in stock - thats where i got the one i put in my 95 F250 - ill see it i can find the napa part #

napa part # NSP 206244
list price $ 123.26
core price $ 49.50
Jobber cost $ 91.98

and you old ford pump works as the core - the pump is a bolt in - just watch the pulley as it can be installed to far for some applications ( i had to back off 1/8" ) - another note - it uses the old style power steering hose, my 95 needed a 86 hose - newer hoses use a oring the older uses a plastic washer -

i love mine - even with 10 psi in my toyos i can turn one finger with no noise in a parking lot -

same here. my 40s at 10 psi will turn with a finger in a parking lot at idle. the problem i have now is, my box is from 89, and has some wear and tear... so when you up the pressure it seems to find the leaks. :D no big deal tho.

Thats what I want....to be able to turn lock to lock without noise and it dieing...

do it.

i spent one night reading reviews on the net, then my brother and i went and got 2 at the same time... my belt was a hair too short, but i already have a diffrent alt. that made it too short already. i will NEVER run a ford pump again.

king your not going with the hydro assist? Cause a friend of mine did it with his tj for under a 100 bucks, w/ ram and all. Its certainly the way to go.

I never said I wasn't going with the hydro assist.

I've been concentrating on other things right now, like a fancy mount for my nitrogen tank behind my passenger seat so I can run my ARB on nitrogen. I'll post pics when it's finished tomorrow night or this weekend.

Before I spend money on a new pump, rebuild kit for the stock box, a ram and lines, I want to get a 20 ton air/hyd shop press for installing the bearing when I do the gears in the D60. (and for doing ball joints and u-joints and other cool shit)

It'll happen, just not right now.

good idea to have a nitrogen tank incase something happens with the airshocks

It's funny how you think you can build something quickly and it always takes forever to complete. Oh well, it was worth the time. Granted I did have a funeral, long days @ work and school work slowing me down.

Here's the 20 ton shop press I was talking about and my fancy nitrgoen tank holder and storage boxes.

Also, I started on the gears and ran into some difficulties. I had to make my own case spreader and buy a torgue wrench that goes to 250 ft lbs for the pinion nut. Plus the fact that the ARB with ring gear weights a fawk load and I need a second set of hands to hold the bearing races on while I lower the carrier into the axle. There is also the concept that this is the first time i've done gears... thank god for setup bearings...

The nitrogen tank will be held down with ratchet straps until i come across some cool stainless band clamps or something interesting/unusual to hold it down with. The ammo boxes are bolt down with stainless 1/4-20 cap bolts and yes I took the time to drill holes in the corners of each box and tap the toob for the 1/4-20's.

The first box hold the goodies for the ARB.
The second and third are for whatever...

Okay I need some help here...in reference to the gears I'm setting up in my Dana 60.

My pattern indicates that I need to move the pinion away from the carrier.

Through trial and error I came to the point where the baffle behind the inner bearing race on the pinion needs to be thinner. (In the 60 bible it's number 6 on the exploded diagram)

This also means that I am to the point where I have no inner pinion bearing shims, just this baffle. So I guess I need a thinner baffle? The baffle I have now is 0.018 (18 thou).

ALSO...I'm assuming since this is a high pinion axle that the baffle MUST stay in there to create a oil puddle between the bearings to help lubricate the rear bearing.


ANY input would be great!!!!
Thanks!

Figured out my problem with some help from a mechanic friend. He went to school for all this stuff so I ask him some of the harder questions when i need help.

Here I thought I needed to move the pinion away from the carrier to obtain a better pattern, but I was wrong! So on wednesday he's gonna come over and we're gonna tare into it again.

No offense to Billavista, but the gear tooth pattern discriptions (60 gear setup tech) were throwing me and my dad for a loop. We did the opposite from what we thought the instructions were telling us.

you done yet? im might be done before you haaaaaaaaaaa

you done yet? im might be done before you haaaaaaaaaaa

I just picked up a 79 HP 60 for 250 bucks....i might even be done before you :flipoff2:

no for real though looking good.

I just picked up a 79 HP 60 for 250 bucks....i might even be done before you :flipoff2:

no for real though looking good.


Thats a damn good price. Sweet find. I can't imagine paying top dollar for a dana 60 when you need to drop soooo much money into it just to "update" it. I've got brake brackets, new rotors, new calipers, $150 into brake lines, an ARB, ring & pinion, master install kit, axle seals and a 1410 series yoke.

I didn't even touch the hubs, shafts or U-joints yet. Hell, U-joints are 70+ for spicer life series (2 total) and hubs or drive flanges are 220-250. New shafts are also a ton of cash...

Oh, and thansk for the props.

Currently the nitrogen tank holder is painted and installed, the tank is mounted, the ammo boxes are mounted, the air lines to the solinoid are finished, wiring is complete (including the arb switch on the dash) and once the axle is back under this weekend I finish up the air line.

I'm also welding up a bump stop surface on the truss directly in the center for the mono bump stop. I doubt I'll even use the bump stop, but I need something there incase of a hard landing so the upper wishbone link doesn't hit the trans/engine. AND yes, the truck sits low enough that I might hit the trans/engine before the air shocks bottom out. AND no, I'm not rewelding the air shocks mounts to eliminate the need for a bump stop, I want to be ready for April 26th at OK4x4 for rock krawl 2008. haha, crunch time...

I'll post some pics later...

Gears are done...

What an adventure! I learned a lot from this long long long project.

I'll post some pics tomorrow.

Time to go lurk around and do some reading...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=362044&stc=1&d=1206764891

I really like this set up! If I had an ext. cab id probly steal this idea.
Build looks awesome BTW.

The nitrogen tank will be held down with ratchet straps until i come across some cool stainless band clamps or something interesting/unusual to hold it down with. The ammo boxes are bolt down with stainless 1/4-20 cap bolts and yes I took the time to drill holes in the corners of each box and tap the toob for the 1/4-20's.

The first box hold the goodies for the ARB.
The second and third are for whatever...

Damn that is a killer Idea. I have an EXT cab s10 ...... Hmmm :D

Damn that is a killer Idea. I have an EXT cab s10 ...... Hmmm :D

Hey, feel free to copy anything you want, but you better show some pics when your finished!!! PLUS, thats what this website is good for...I got many many many ideas from reading other peoples build threads and copying some of their ideas.

Here's some random pics...
Next is building a bump stop support on the frame.

The third pics shows my main problem, the pitman arm. I moved the axle back 0.5-0.75 inches to try and get it away from the pitman arm, but it's not enough and I can't go back anymore b/c of the driveshaft.

Can I cut the pitman arm in half and weld in a 0.5-1.0 inch spacer? The arm is forged, so I can weld it...correct?

Thanks

Some sweet ideas showing up in this build!! :smokin:

I wouldn't cut and weld a pitman arm. Just doesn't seem trustworthy to me. Is that a drop pitman arm? I would sacrafice some for some bump steer and mount the drag link higher some how. Either by running a stock pitman arm or top mounting the one you have. But thats just me.

can you flip that joint to the top of the pitman arm? That might by you the space you need.

can you flip that joint to the top of the pitman arm? That might by you the space you need.

Or you could repeat what I just said.

I could do that, but I'd have to go find another pitman arm because I already reamed out this one for the chevy TRE.

I wonder how unsafe it would be to cut and weld that arm.
-preheat
-weld with nickle alloy rod (which I have)
-postheat
-call it done...

I could do that, but I'd have to go find another pitman arm because I already reamed out this one for the chevy TRE.

I wonder how unsafe it would be to cut and weld that arm.
-preheat
-weld with nickle alloy rod (which I have)
-postheat
-call it done...

Again, if you want to try it, go ahead. But I wouldn't. Stock pitman arm? If not go the the JY and get a stock one and ream that.

Is that a drop pitman arm?

I believe it is a drop arm, I bought it from a friend after I sold my old TTB setup.