I think my head gasket is gone.. it is leaking water out between the head and block right below the #1 spark plug closer to the lower left exaust manifold bolt....but the motor still runs fine and is not milkshaked...anybody have any experience with this....
its got 167,000 on the clock

im thinking about changing it this weekend. What all do I need for a basic job. ie just the head gasket.....also thinking about doing the timing chain while im at it with the DOA kit

should I get new head bolts? what else?

Definately do it sooner rather than later. There isn't a milk shake now but there's one coming. While you're that far into the motor take a look at the timing chain cover right behind the water pump. The pumps love to wear a hole throught the aluminun cover right there.

I don't think you need new head bolts. If the ones you have are in good shape just tap the bolts and holes to ensure the proper torque specs when tightening.

Alumaseal.:rolleyes: Run it till it dies. Toyotas like it. My last motor did.

Definetly do not use a Felprone gasket. Stone or Factory is much better!!

im not gunna alumaseal anything

Im definately gunna do the timing chain....I think it is that that has been making all that racket

I gotta drive it work and school all weak so im hoping for the best

The odd thing I've found when I replaced a few head gaskets is that it was installed wrong at the factory. I've seen some doubled over in spots and that's why they were leaking. Even though they were doubled over, they still lasted a very long time.
What you need depends on how long you want it to last. You can take compression checks to find out what kind of shape the valves and rings are in. You can just replace the gasket if you're in a hurry. If it was me, it would be a valve grind, valve guides and mill the surface of the head, you can get a better cam while you're there. People call these different things but it's a head rebuild. Since I've been reading on this BB I have come around to thinking about checking the timing chain guide and tensioner.

If you do the head gasket while everything's in good shape, you probably won't have to do much. May be the head doesn't need anything, but 167K is quite a bit.

Originally posted by gadget
Definetly do not use a Felprone gasket.

Odd. I did a new HG in my '84 2 years ago, I had to have the head shaved flat. Tim @ DOA told me to use a Felpro gasket, they are a little thicker to compensate. I'm all for OEM, but no troubles with the Felpro gasket.

The fel pro hg is a great head gasket. Just watch out for the timing cover set that comes in a engine gasket set. and the rubber grommets are too tall for the valve cover. If you buy them in individual sets they fit well. Also with the head bolts use a die on the bolt and a tap in the head bolt holes that is what it calls for in the fsm. and it will get rid of all the crusty oil that has been sitting in there since it was first started.

I have to do this on 400 dollars cuz thats all i have...so no head work and I checked compression last eyar and all 4 were over 100

Ok now this shiat fawking pisses me off......I get back home after going to dealer to price check and when I look under there the fawker isnt leaking:mad: :mad: :mad3: :mad3:and I checked the oil and it still looks like oil

Be careful backing out the head bolts on the exhaust side.

The one between the #3 and #4 and I think the one between the #2 adn #3.

They pass though some exhaust ports (EGR?) and get all gunked up. Lube em up as best as ya can (I used WD-40 with a straw and later when the head was a little higher - kero) so as to not strip the block.

You'll need a "head set" as there are gaskets on the intake manifold etc. I think the OEM set was like $80 from the 'stealer (but I get some kinda discount).

If I were you Id get a valve job - or a MINIMUM replace the valve seals. Check the head for flatness. Mine required a 0.006 shave (I think thats the right number of zeros) even thou it wasnt over heated (the HG DID blow btw a water passage and the #1 piston). At 270K I think it was merely age...

If you are going to be that far into an engine and cannot afford a valve job, at least change the valve seals and "lap" the valves in. Go to a GOOD auto parts store and buy a small can of fine lapping/grinding compound and a hand valve lapper. That is a wood dowel with a suction cup looking thing on each end; one is a bit bigger then the other. You put the compound on the valve seat, slide the valve into the hole, put the lapper on top of the valve, and spin it between the palms of your hands. Pull the valve and wipe it to make sure the valve seat is the same color all the way round. If it is, wipe the seat in the head and make sure it is the same color all the way around. This will give you a better sealing valve then any machine can do. Cheap and easy. I have done this to all the heads that I have gotten back from the shop since I started building engines in the 50's. All race engines get the valves "Hand Lapped" in.:D

If you want to save a little bit of money, get a timing kit from www.engnbldr.com His kit comes w/ driver's side steel guide. It cost me $82 shipped, for the kit. Just got done installing it too.:D

How much compression is normal on a worn stock engine, 140 - 160 psi? You should be able to get a bit done for $400.

I dont know what to do know.....it stopped leaking and there isnt water in the oil....any I work all week so I dont have any time to pull the valve cover and inspect

Then let it go just save your money and eventually you will get a hold of a better motor.The previous owner of my truck blew the hg about 8 years ago and kept driving it. it sealed itself back up and never resurfaced. again it had about 450,000 miles on the stock motor that has had one timing chain replaced and 2 water pumps installed on its whole life. I finally pulled it this last January because it started to lose power and I couldn't keep up with trafic unless I was in 3rd gear. A year before I checked the compression and it had 150 all down the line. And no its not with a cheap compression gauge thats snap-on bubba. but if it bothers you yhat bad just look in the for sale section and I'm sure you can find another good running motor for about 200-400 dollars.

Yeah I think I am just going to let it go....It sort of bothers me , but I htink about it less and less....So at least I will be able to get my gears and detroit in this weekend instead of a whole mess of engine stuff