devinsixtyseven
04-18-2007, 11:52 PM
This is part shop/tool, part gen 4x4, if it's inappropriate here please feel free to move it :).
7/16-14 normally takes a 23/64 bit, 7/16-20 lists 25/64.
The 3/8" hole measures out damn near 0.375"...maybe 0.380 on the dial calipers, hard to tell exactly on the dial but it barely passes the shank of a 3/8" bolt. The hole was machine cut, not hand cut, no wallowing. It's a very clean hole.
The material to be threaded is 3/8" thick mild steel. If I run a 7/16-14 tap through these 3/8" blanks, will the threads hold properly? They are holding the diff to the housing. Can I run a 7/16-20 tap through, if I'm careful? Is the fine thread bolt even a good idea in this application?
Next problem is even if this works I'll have to enlarge the holes in the 3rd member. Is it even possible to accurately run a 7/16" drill, by hand, through a 3/8" existing hole in 1/2" thick nodular iron, or will the bit grab & shatter if it miraculously doesn't wallow? (I can easily protect the r/p from shavings)
Uhhhh...help :(! I'd rather make this work than send anything back (probably an honest mistake on someone's part, or I'm seriously missing something), and I'm guessing I'm only limited by my ability to drill straight holes by hand.
Is this correct...will this plan work? Leave the holes in the (mild steel) housing as-is, tap to 7/16-20, enlarge the holes in the (nodular) diff to clear 7/16 studs, or bolts if necessary...can it be done by hand or will I be breaking the tap (or losing strength in the threaded interface) and losing necessary accuracy in the hole centers on the diff?
Thanks very much,
Sean
7/16-14 normally takes a 23/64 bit, 7/16-20 lists 25/64.
The 3/8" hole measures out damn near 0.375"...maybe 0.380 on the dial calipers, hard to tell exactly on the dial but it barely passes the shank of a 3/8" bolt. The hole was machine cut, not hand cut, no wallowing. It's a very clean hole.
The material to be threaded is 3/8" thick mild steel. If I run a 7/16-14 tap through these 3/8" blanks, will the threads hold properly? They are holding the diff to the housing. Can I run a 7/16-20 tap through, if I'm careful? Is the fine thread bolt even a good idea in this application?
Next problem is even if this works I'll have to enlarge the holes in the 3rd member. Is it even possible to accurately run a 7/16" drill, by hand, through a 3/8" existing hole in 1/2" thick nodular iron, or will the bit grab & shatter if it miraculously doesn't wallow? (I can easily protect the r/p from shavings)
Uhhhh...help :(! I'd rather make this work than send anything back (probably an honest mistake on someone's part, or I'm seriously missing something), and I'm guessing I'm only limited by my ability to drill straight holes by hand.
Is this correct...will this plan work? Leave the holes in the (mild steel) housing as-is, tap to 7/16-20, enlarge the holes in the (nodular) diff to clear 7/16 studs, or bolts if necessary...can it be done by hand or will I be breaking the tap (or losing strength in the threaded interface) and losing necessary accuracy in the hole centers on the diff?
Thanks very much,
Sean