it seems to me that if it was as easy as using 3/4 ton caliper brackets and some 3/4" spacer, then NO ONE would be making money off of fab up 'custom' brackets.

what's the difference? and can you just use a set of 3/4 ton bracket?

thanks- russel

ps- i have an '86 10.5" 14 bolt, if that makes a difference

I used 1/2 ton chevy front caliper brackes and just hacked them up till they fit over the spindle and welded them on. Go here to see more pics. (http://www.alaskaoffroad.com/axle_tech.htm)

http://www.alaskaoffroad.com/images/Tech/14bolt/14Discbrake.JPG

:usa:

I looked into the possibility of doing that with a set of 3/4 ton brackets off a front 44. To make them bolt on, the centers would have to be bored out and the holes welded and re-drilled. For someone that doesn't mind to do the work, it's feasable. To do them the way that bgreen did his is another option that makes good sense. The downside to that is getting the spacing right so the caliper is centered. This is the reason I didn't go that route. Again, for someone that doesn't mind the setup and welding, it's a fine alternative. I didn't really mind that part, just got impatient trying to lay it all out. I went with bolt on brackets from TSM. Nice brackets but WAY overpriced. My other reasoning behind this is that if I decide to go to a different rig and say move the 14 over and cut it down, the brackets unbolt and go right back on. In the future, I'll either weld on a set like bgreen, or get a set of brackets from Shaker. Shaker makes a nice kit and the price is SMOKIN!!!!

Sorry for the rambling. :D

yeah, shaker rocks!

anyway, the spacing was also my concern. the spacing for both the caliper strattling the rotor and height wise. if you have to ream out the center of the brackets then it would be hard to judge the height real great.

if somebody knows of a good way to do this, then i'd appreciate a shove in the right direction. i have a set of 1/2 ton brackets in the garage, just scared to cut and WELD (that's sorta permanent):)


bgreen- got any advice on where to start? did you try and put everything together at the same time? and cut a little at a time till it got to be just right?


thanks- russel


EDIT: just checked out your website bgreen and saw that you did do a mock setup. but it appears that you did not have to use and kind of spacers. how'd you get that lucky?

Mine are just like bgreen's setup just cut the bottom off the bracket so its a C shape instead of a O shape with the rotor hub assmbley installed bolted up a new load caliper on the caliper support and put it on the rotor and tack weld it into place then remove the rotor hub assm and weld up the rest and your good to go. I just tack welded both sideds with a small mig the went to a friends shop and had him weld up the gap at the top of the braket and weld up the rest of the braket.

The spacing on my brackets worked out perfect with the bracket flipped around (the front right bracket is welded to the left rear.) To get the right height I hacked out the center of the bracket and assembled the bracket and caliper onto the rotor and C-clamped it together. I had to make several attempts at the bracket hacking, but I didn't get too picky cause I was going to weld them on any way. To set the clearance from the rotor to the caliper bolts I used 1/16" thick washers (between the rotor and the bolts) to hold the bracket in the right dimension radially, and laid down a few tack welds. The axial guides (see atached pic) had to be ground off due to being on backwards, but none of the aftermarket kits I have seen use them anyway.



When you are laying out a pattern for brackets try the following:
1. Measure the diameter of the rotor you are using and divide that by 2 ( lets just say the rotors are 12" for sake of demonstration, so 12 / 2 = 6")

2. Add 1/16 to that number and that is the measurement that you want from the center hole of the bracket to the edge of one of the caliper bolt holes. ( 6" + 1/16 = 6.062"

3. Measure the caliper bolt thread diameter and add half that dimension to the figure from step 2. Now you know the radius of the bolt pattern your caliper bolt holes should be on. ( I think the bolts are 7/16 Fine but I not sure, so .4375 / 2 = .218, .218 + 6. 062 = 6.280" Lets just call it 6.3125" (6 and 5/16")

4. Now mark a piece of cardstock with a center point, and draw a circle around it that is about 1/16" larger than your axle.

5. Draw another circle with a 6 and 5/16" radius. Mark one point anywhere on that circle.

6. Measure the distance between the bolt holes on the caliper. lets call it 6"

7. measure from the center point from step 5. to 6" away on that same large circle.

That all the layout you need to do. the rest can be traced from your stock mounting brackets, and backing plate. I probably got everyone really confused now, so let me know, and I can do a quick demo and post pics today.

:usa:

seems reall straight forward. but demos are always nice:)

thanks for all the advice! -russel

Here you go, you owe me one now :D about half way down the page (http://www.alaskaoffroad.com/axle_tech.htm) :usa:

you ARE the man! thanks :D

now i just have to find some 2 peice drums............

it never ends.

russel