Sence I have put my full size axles in, my steering has gone to $hit. I checked the stopes on both sides and there is about a 1/2 too 3/4 inch left when at full steer. What I have come up with is that I need a longer pittman arm. What I need to know is what arm I should go with or how much longer it should be, or if I can some how make the one I have work.

wagonneer pitman arm has a longer through

or fullsize bronco pitman arm has a real long through

I use a 4" drop Wagonneer pitman from Skyjacker. Stock Wagonneers are flat and don't sit to well with YJ boxes, even with high steer (which I have). The 4" drop wagonneer is about the same as a stock YJ, I have about 4 degrees of draglink angle w/ highsteer on my 60. The wagonneer is about 1-1.5" longer than the YJ. I can pull a u-turn on a narrow 2-lane road w/o going off pavement, it's sweet and much better than stock.

I think the arm was like $60, same taper at the box end (YJ), but larger taper at the drag-link end. Uses the same rod end as a 1-ton Ford tie-rod (and of course stock wagonneer). You can get a 1-ton ford tie rod and cut it down for a drag-link if your cheap. I made drag-link from solid 1" round steel:D

Would that same pitman arm fit my CJ? It's highsteer and won't turn well at all.

Originally posted by Bigred84cj8
Would that same pitman arm fit my CJ? It's highsteer and won't turn well at all.

Yep, it'll fit a CJ box. You'll just have to change the rod ends on your drag-link if they don't fit the pitman arm.

I run a D60 up front, with a high steer setup, after months of fighting poor steering, 3/4" off the bumpstops, I gave up and went with a stacked heim setup. I now have a full 8" of steering throw which bottoms be out on both bumpstops with a 4" drop CJ arm. I tried a waggy and a bronco arm and they did not help that much.

Here is a pic of my setup (Don't bother flaming me I like me steering and I am keeping it!)

http://www.tpijeep.com/steerarm_003.jpg

So by using a stacked heim you moved your drag-link closer to the knuckles pivot point? I'm lost:confused: Having your drag link closer to the knuckles pivot will allow for use of a shorter pitman and tighter turning is possible (due to the shorter arc the rod end at the knuckle travels through), but why does that necessitate stacking the heims? Why are you unable to place your tie-rod further out on the steering arm because it just serves as a connector between knuckles? Unless it's due to a space constraint I'm lost:confused:

The reason the drag link has to be in front of the tie rod is because of clearance issues, if the drag is behind the tie rod they cross each other and will hit under compression. With the tie rod 2" closer to the pivot point and the drag link right in front of it with a bronco pitman I was only getting about 6.5" of throw which kept me 3/4" from the bumpstops on each side. Plus having the tie rod that close to the pivot point the stress was insane and the PS box could barely turn the tires.

With the heims stacked I was able to locate the connecting point perfectly to get the best steering throw.. and eliminate all my interference issues.

Make any sense? :p

Originally posted by TPIJeep
With the heims stacked I was able to locate the connecting point perfectly to get the best steering throw.. and eliminate all my interference issues.

Make any sense? :p

So due to space constraints- It was not possible for you to have a longer high-steer arm allowing you to locate your tie-rod far enough in front of the drag-link to avoid interference. If this is what you are getting at then I fully understand. In that case there are only a few solutions: stacked heims, stepped arm, tie-rod behind diff, cross-over (of course less desirable). Is there a reason you decided against a stepped arm to clear the springs with the tie-rod (I'm assuming that is why you couldn't use a longer high-steer arm like I mentioned previously)

Originally posted by bigdude


So due to space constraints- It was not possible for you to have a longer high-steer arm allowing you to locate your tie-rod far enough in front of the drag-link to avoid interference. If this is what you are getting at then I fully understand. In that case there are only a few solutions: stacked heims, stepped arm, tie-rod behind diff, cross-over (of course less desirable). Is there a reason you decided against a stepped arm to clear the springs with the tie-rod (I'm assuming that is why you couldn't use a longer high-steer arm like I mentioned previously)

You got it, plus a behind diff arm is would interfer with my shocks, PS cooler, oil pan. This works for now, until something better comes along.. :D

Originally posted by TPIJeep


You got it, plus a behind diff arm is would interfer with my shocks, PS cooler, oil pan. This works for now, until something better comes along.. :D

I'm just a little slow sometimes:D

I just picked one up from a bronco today and it is about 1" longer than the one that I have on there now, When I get it in I'll let you all know how it works.