Front vibes have been pretty bad even at <10mph in 4wd. Even with the hi-pinion. Spinning the tires fast in mud and sand seemed like it would nuke something from the very bad vibes.

I started poking around, and there was considerable play in my front drive shaft up by the tcase. I took it off to check it out. One of the c-clips wasn't seated all the way causing the slop. I picked up a $9.99 AutoZone ujoint to try to see how much difference it made. Looks like the splined on the slip yoke have become a little loose front the vration too. Haven't finished the ujoint yet, but if I dont like the results, I'm just going to buy a Sumo front shaft.

Question, I need to spread the yoke a tiny bit on my TT extended slip yoke to get the clip in w/o binding the joint. Any tips on ways to this w/o some sort of hydro power? BFH and vise is my current plan.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Shrock
[B] "Even with the hi-pinion. "

#1- ok from this, it sounds like you have Toy fj axle?



"Question, I need to spread the yoke a tiny bit to get the clip in w/o binding the joint"

#2- from this, it sounds like the u-joint retainer clip is on the inside of the joint versus the outside clip style of the usual Sammy ones, meaning non Samurai d-shaft.....


"on my TT extended slip yoke"

#3- but from this, sounds like you have a "stock Samurai" extended slip yoke, and by that inference, stock front Sammy d-shaft.....


sorry haven't had my second cup of coffee yet so i'm confused...... :confused:

**
#1- if you have Toy axle/axles why not Toy driveshafts?
#2- if you have to spread the yoke to put a clip in, instead of putting in an e clip from the outside, sounds like you have non-samurai driveshafts?
#3- i have stock front sammy d-shaft with TT extended slip yoke, and i had to expend a lot of effort in order to get it to actually even go on. (and TRUST ME when i say i made bloody damn sure everything was in proper phase, splines well lubed and not crossed etc etc LOL)

my front d-shaft shakes like a test vibrator at lonely single women covention.:( :D

**
(anyway, was just curious.)

Update and answers.

1. Yah FJ-80

2&3. Stock Sammi driveshaft with TT 2" yoke. The reason I wanted spread the yoke out a little is bec it looked kinda like this / | to my eye instead of parallel like this | | and after shitloads of pounding, I still could not get the Clip to seat all the way. I then remembered reading something about some aftermarket c-clips being too thick, so I went back to the stock ones, BFH'd some more and got it in, but it was so tight it was binding. I applied the BFH at an angle to try to bent the yoke back more parallel and it freed up some. A little tapping on each side to move the cup out and it's smooth as butter now...amazingly. I'm surprised my vise survived all the serious pounding. :D

>>my front d-shaft shakes like a test vibrator at lonely single women convention

LOL :D :D

I did this over lunch. going to install it after work and see how it goes. I dont mind vibes in 4wd so long as it does not feel bad enough to nuke my tcase or my $$$$ FJ80 3rd member & elocker which felyt quite possible before. The slop is gone in the joint now, so it should at least be somewhat better.

re: using toy dshafts, never looked into it. I'm guessing I would have to find a toy shaft that was too long and have it cut down??? What about the splines on the tcase? Would they match? Not sure if the cost saving of this route would be worth it over the SUMO shaft unless it is easier than I'm guessing.

Call arizona dline, they will make you a shaft for the front....A high angle 40* cv that bolts to your tcase......

This way you dont have to worry about this anymore.

Do I really need a cv front? Dont really want to spend. $400 on a driveshaft. Why should I go to AZ drivline vs buying the SUMO shaft. I think they make it anyway and it is available with a CV.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Shrock
[B]

"re: using toy dshafts, never looked into it. I'm guessing I would have to find a toy shaft that was too long and have it cut down???"

it's much easier to cut down a longer shaft than add material to a shorter one, from what i'm told. (not counting spacers etc, that is)




"What about the splines on the tcase? Would they match?"

(i'll assume you meant "flanges" and not "splines"):D
it's a simple matter of turning the Toy driveshaft flange mating face equidistant (aprox. 45*?) to the existing holes on the sammy slip yoke re-drilling new bolt holes, and removing a tiny little bit of material from the inside circumference of the slip yoke.

usually what guys do is to use a stock front 19xx year Toy cv 'shaft and exchange it for the oem Sammy rear 'shaft using this method.*

*the one caveat to ANY change to cv shafts, custom aftermarket or re-worked Toy one though remember, is that you will have to muck with your spring perches to line up the t-case with diff. for c/v application....
that's the one down side if it's a pain for you to have done....

personally, i would prefer just "regular" longer 'shafts with better/higher angle u-joints if i had a choice, but that's not always possible.


"Not sure if the cost saving of this route would be worth it over the SUMO shaft unless it is easier than I'm guessing."


most things that are dirt easy for others on this board are way too involved for me to tackle with my limited skills/tools/time/money/patience...... :D