THIS THREAD WILL BE MODERATED:
No Questions, this thread is for reporting specific combinations you have tried.
There are hundreds of threads on this topic, but they all contain a huge amount of hearsay and uninformed responses, and the true tech gets buried.

I'd like to have a thread in which only people who have actually SUCCESSFULLY completed a master cylinder upgrade should post the following:

- Year/model of vehicle
- Year/model/style of booster
- Year/model/style of master cylinder
- year/model of proportioning valve (if used)
- Front brake configuration
- Rear brake configuration
- Overall performance

What we DON'T need is a bunch of people saying "I've heard you just swap in a E350 master cylinder" or "A 79 corvette MC works".

Sorry if this is a repeat, but I know I've been quite frustrated trying to find any accurate information on this, and I know there's some others out there with the same problems.

Ok, I think this would be a great thread if only actual experience is reported here.
I'll start with the current system on my '88 XJ Laredo:
'88 XJ Laredo
'78 Mercury Marquis with 4-wheel discs and hydroboost
http://napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=TS&PartNumber=101603&Description=Brake+Master+Cylinder+-+Remfd

'88 XJ combination valve; gutted
'76 Chevy single piston, 1/2-ton calipers in front
'80 Cadillac Eldorado (metric) calipers in rear
Braking is good, much better than stock; however, I plan to upgrade to dual booster as soon as the correct MC is identified:D

Ok, I think this would be a great thread if only actual experience is reported here.
I'll start with the current system on my '88 XJ Laredo:
'88 XJ Laredo
'78 Mercury Marquis with 4-wheel discs and hydroboost
http://napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=TS&PartNumber=101603&Description=Brake+Master+Cylinder+-+Remfd

'88 XJ combination valve; gutted
'76 Chevy single piston, 1/2-ton calipers in front
'80 Cadillac Eldorado (metric) calipers in rear
Braking is good, much better than stock; however, I plan to upgrade to dual booster as soon as the correct MC is identified:D
hydroboost is cool, got any pics?

good topic... free bump

hey man, the thread is about what master you can swap into yer rig, not brakes per se. this bolted up and works great. yup, the pedal is hard, it reacts quickly. it works good, and the rig is ready for the big calipers that come with big axles. this is good info if a fella is building incrementaly, as most are. i tried to follow the guidelines set in the first post. all my info is there.

Tech to the top BS to the bottom...

I have a Ram 1500 master laying around that might also be a good swap. I will get some measurements and post up some pics in a day or two.

I have a Ram 1500 master laying around that might also be a good swap. I will get some measurements and post up some pics in a day or two.

There is no speculation allowed in this thread.

There is no speculation allowed in this thread.
I'm fully aware that there is no speculation allowed, but posted that because I would check fitment so no one else buys one try since I have the master already.

If it's a no go I will edit my post so no one else trys one...

:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

clean up

It's been more than a day or two.

:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

I forgot all about this thread. :)
helped me out a good bit, so I decided to revive it

subscribing...

Thank you for the straight answer. I will give it a shot.

reblead the brakes for the time being and see what happens. When we got that going I never got all the air out of the lines.

What about if your not doing rear disks on a d60? Im swapping in a d44/d60 from a 78 F-250, with calipers and keeping the drums in the back. What would the e350 M/c feel like, and or do I need any additional mods, such as o-ring removal, etc?

1995 zj

1991 xj

1988 e350

none

mid - late 80's 3/4 ton calipers on cj rotors on 609

1979 lincoln calipers on ford 9

sweeet

holy shit the first one

OK, so a lot of these master cylinders being mentioned come from vehicles with drum brakes in the rear, but are being used w/ rear disc conversions. The vehicle they come from may have had a rear disc option, but I'm not seeing a distinction in the parts listings on RockAuto.com (I've checked the Durango, E-350, Corvette, 2500, K30, etc).

Apparently volume isn't an issue to the rear discs? And these MC's must not have a built in residual valve for rear drums?

My assumption is that the manufacturers are using the same MC for either rear brake system, giving the rear reservoir enough volume for either setup, and putting the residual valve in the combination/proportioning valve? :confused: Does that make sense?

Thanks,
Billy

I have the Ford 2 piston calipers found on their older D44/D60 in the front and the Chevrolet 3/4 ton single piston calipers on the rear. I used the 77/78 grand marquis master, wilwood prop valve, stock 92 booster. The rear will lock down with ease even with the prop valve turned all the way down, but the front breaks are lacking. I am wondering if it is from the diameter of the stock break lines not allowing enough fluid to move the massive ford dual pistons. I have bled and bled the front and no change. I cant really trouble shoot right now because the front axle is removed for some freshening up. Just thought I would see if I could get some ideas from the masses to help when I button it back up. I do have brand new calipers coming. Does anyone think I should go with a larger diameter break line, or does that not have much effect?

What if I used the master cylinder from a '79 F250? Has anyone tried, or know the specs?

has anyone played around with not running any sort of booster?

has anyone played around with not running any sort of booster?


You'd want to run a manual ( NON power ) M/C to do it right.

With fear of flamage, I did a manual Disc swap on my '72 Nova, used a '69 Camaro manual disc M/C, '76 Malibu prop valve, '73 Nova discs, calipers, spindles.

You'd have to find a M/C that was manual disc/drum, or disc/disc depending on your set up. A "power brake" M/C would give you a VERY hard pedal if you tried to run it without a booster.

Top of my head, Camaro, Corvette, Chevelle, Mustang, Charger, Valiant, Volare, would be some to look into for bore size/hole spacing match ups....

I was thinking Wilwood.. :p

I was thinking Wilwood.. :p


Sure.....do it the easy way.....:shaking:







:D

Ok
91 Xj
93 D60 calipers
K20 calipers on 14 B
90 E350 MC
Wilwood Valve
Stock prop
37" tires

The rear works great and not enough front brake pressure. Should I bypass the stock Prop valve?

Ok
91 Xj
93 D60 calipers
K20 calipers on 14 B
90 E350 MC
Wilwood Valve
Stock prop
37" tires

The rear works great and not enough front brake pressure. Should I bypass the stock Prop valve?

From original poster as to the purpose of this thread:

"There are hundreds of threads on this topic, but they all contain a huge amount of hearsay and uninformed responses, and the true tech gets buried.
I'd like to have a thread in which only people who have actually SUCCESSFULLY completed a master cylinder upgrade should post the following:-----"

Sorry Bubba.....

Come on, guys. This thread was intended to be testimonies of after the fact SUCCESSFUL upgrades to MC's and associated systems--not a discussion forum for "what ifs", and "why won't this, or that work".
There Are many, many threads on Pirate regarding problems encountered with various systems, filled with ideas, but with few operational solutions. This thread was suppose to be a collection of verifiable, successful installations.

I have a 78 CJ7 with out power brakes, the master cylinder shot craps so I scored a working 90 XJ MC and Booster for free. I had to make a bracket to mount it and hold it out 3/4" It works great, locks up the 34" LTB's but I'm not satisfied with the pedal feel, it is way soft. I have blead and blead the brakes but it doesn't help. As soon as I start appling the brakes they engage and slow you down apply more foot and they stop, basicaly everythng works good except for pedal feel. I'm running disc on front and drum on rear,stock, and a new CJ p-valve. Does anyone have a suggestion ?

90XJ Booster
90XJ MC
CJ D30 Stock Front Calipers
CJ AMC2o Stock Drums
CJ New P-valve

I have a XJ 91 with stock brakes and I find this very usefull, but have any of you guys put in an aluminium caliper front and rear?

ok real world measurements. I think stuff like this is critical to true tech also.

Durango/dakota - A1C132967 part number said to be 1999-2001
Would say its 1.900 OD (caliper loosen some when I let go.
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k40/rob_laurali/XJ/Front%20end/P1000237.jpg

Stock WJ (dont know what yr to yr but do know it was out of a 04) 1.730 OD
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k40/rob_laurali/XJ/Front%20end/P1000239.jpg

As you can see the durango/dakota will not fit/seal the WJ booster. I also measured the CL hole spacing and it was the same as the Durango. I can not verify though the OD of the booster mount bore, as I returned it to fast and forgot.

CAN someone please take measurements from the follow if they have (pict would be nice to).
single XJ booster (pre 95) bolt mount spacing and OD of mount flange/bore
Dual XJ booster (95ish newer)bolt mount spacing and OD of mount flange/bore
and any and all attemped MC or booster related to a XJ swaps (any and all diam)

ok real world measurements.

I think gathering real world measurements is a fine idea however I think we need to be consistent and clear how it is done.

You said: "Durango/dakota" What year? What part number?

Pictures of calipers are ok, but rather than relying on everyone interpreting the picture of the caliper, how about we just say, in numbers, what the measurement is. The glare on the caliper in second picture is so bad my old eyes can't even read the numbers.

Could we do something like:

1999-2001 Dakota/Durango MC
Napa (or DC, or whatever) Part Number: xxxxxxx-xxx
Diameter of MC where it enters the booster: x.xx inch or xx mm
Length of MC where it enter the booster: x.xx inch or xx mm
Distance hole-to-hole mounting flange: x.xx inch or xx mm
Diameter of mounting flange bolt holes: x.xx inch or xx mm
And then include a couple pics.

Are there any other relevent measurements that should be recorded?
What do you guys think?

Also in the first pic, it appears the caliper isn't touching anything on the left side.

Lastly. I can provide measurements from a stock 2001 XJ, when I get home.

You said: "Durango/dakota" What year? What part number?

Pictures of calipers are ok, but rather than relying on everyone interpreting the picture of the caliper, how about we just say, in numbers, what the measurement is. The glare on the caliper in second picture is so bad my old eyes can't even read the numbers.

Also in the first pic, it appears the caliper isn't touching anything on the left side.


Editted. See numbers. And yeah those must be some old eyes :flipoff2:

those of a 2001 would be nice.

87Manche, I don't have hydro boost. The MC is from a Mercury with hydro boost.

Lookin4fun, that's useful input, thanks.

Real World Measurements: + or - 1 or 2 thousands :)

I just pulled my master cylinder.
2001 Cherokee Sport stock master cylinder 1 inch bore.
Not sure about DC part number.
Cast on the bottom of the MC: BENDIX 0180C 4028 34
Cast on mounting flange: F102 0223
Cast on the end of the MC: 0236C 4651

Diameter of MC where it enters the booster: 1.75 inch
Note: the cylindrical part of the mc that enters the booster steps up to a larger diameter just before the rubber seal. This is the part that actually seals against the booster. The diameter at this point is: 1 29/32 or 1.9 inch

Distance hole-to-hole mounting flange: 3.21 inch

Diameter of mounting flange bolt holes: 11/32 inch

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2088000-2088999/2088113_39_full.jpg


http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2088000-2088999/2088113_42_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2088000-2088999/2088113_41_full.jpg

heres my brake set up for your viewing pleasure

87 xj
master/booster-99wj
prop valve-stock 87 xj with o ring removed as outlined here- http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/valve/index.htm
front brakes-99 wj knuckles/calipers/rotors re drilled to 5x4.5
rear brakes-00 explorer 8.8 disks.

the jeep stops awsome on 35s i can lock up all 4 at will even brakes straight.

i orignally set out to use the wj knuckles for the crossover steering but the brakes were the best part of the swap it stops 1000 times better than it did with the orignal brakes :grinpimp:

justin

'93 ZJ/xj d44 rear.

front brakes stock. :laughing: no abs, ripped it all out.

rear disc setup: 95 ZJ front rotors (hub center fits over d44 axle center) with '88 YJ calipers with the bolt on mount bracket. factory caliper bracket bolts to bracket welded to axle.

master cylinder: '85 E350, with holes ground out a bit to fit over booster studs

booster: '88ish XJ. it is bigger than other XJ ones i have looked at, maybe it is dual diapham? i never confirmed that.

no prop. valve - should be using one on street, nice on the trail tho. 50/50 distribution.

biggest problem i had was adjusting the little screw guy between the booster and the brake pedal. needed to back it off 1/8" it is super touchy to adjust, use very small increments. 1/4 turn makes a difference.

been running 2 years no problem.

summary: ZJ with E350/XJ booster bolts up.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y166/chopshop69/dec.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y166/chopshop69/dec-1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y166/chopshop69/dec-2.jpg

So you've got an E350 master with stock brakes...

That has to be a hell of a stiff pedal.

im running the stock '02 TJ MC with ford dual pistons in the front and chevy 3/4 ton fronts in the rear and the brakes work better than ever.

So you've got an E350 master with stock brakes...

That has to be a hell of a stiff pedal.

works for me and where my rig is at. it shows that we are able to do a master swap in an incremental build. the ZJ is ready for bigger brakes now, one less thing to do when the axles come.

anyway, offtopic....this is a good thread.

94 XJ
95 XJ Dual Diaphram Booster PN# 52008647
96 ZJ Master Cylinder 4 wheel disc
96 ZJ 4wdisc Proportioning valve internals ...all of it not just spring
94 XJ front stock brake configuration
87 XJ D44 w/ TSM disc kit using 79 Monte Carlo front calipers

I'm having an issue with inner pads not making a flush contact with rotor (till they wear in) on the rear TSM setup.

Jeep slows level, no nosediving. Braking is good, but i'd like to swap rear configuration to give me parking/emergency brakes.

Would be useful to hear from you guys experimenting with late ('99 or newer) model Dodge (Rams and Durangos) MC's onto late model ('95 or newer) XJ/WJ dual-diaphragm boosters.

Well, my plans have changed. I was convinced that since I was running the large dual piston Ford calipers that I needed a 1.25 inch bore master cylinder to push a higher volume of fluid to the big calipers. However, after talking to a couple others with these calipers and after reading a great brake article, I realized that I was wrong. The dual piston calipers do not require the volume of fluid that I thought they did.

I highly recommend this article about disc brake systems. It is written by a guy who builds hot rods and race cars but the braking principals apply to any vehicle. He covers everything from the brake pedal to the rotors, as a system.

http://www.hotrodheaven.com/tech/brakes/brakes1_index.htm

I'm running an axle and brakes from a 1979 F250. That truck came stock with a 1 1/16 inch bore master cylinder, and it did not have a dual diaphragm booster. As such the 01 XJ with a 1 inch bore and dual diaphragm booster, is probably sufficient. Ideally I would locate a 1 1/16 or 1 1/8 inch bore MC, such as a the 99 Dakota/Durango. If I figure out the resevior/hood clearance issue, I will give it a try. Otherwise, I'll stick with the original 01 XJ MC. My front D44 is done, when the D60 rear is finished I'll be able to post my 'real world' results.

1989 xj
- stock 89 booster
- 80's E350
- stock prop with missing spring/oring
- 1/2t chevy, on a HP44
- 1/2t chevy, on a ford 9
- overall it stops, locks the front up fine, the rear just slow, gonna do another bleed, with the calipers off the brackets, to see if I still have air trapped.

Stock 93 XJ booster
77 Mercury Marquis Master
Wilwood adjustable prop valve
78 F250 front brakes
77 Chevy K20 front brakes mounted to rear 14bolt
It'll lock up my 35s with ease.

-Joel

It's been more than a day or two.

:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

I did you one better and tested it.

I tryed a '98 Ram 1500 master on my 95 and it will not work correctly.

so rule that one out as a viable swap.

94 ZJ buggy
88 XJ booster
88 XJ MC
No prop. valve
Waggy D44 with stock waggy discs/ calipers
Ford 8.8 with stock Ford discs/ calipers
37" tires
Medium soft to lightly firm pedal. It's not like stomping on a cinder block, but it's no pillow either.

I ran the stock ZJ booster and MC for a while and it really did great stopping 37s. I removed it to ditch the ABS pump and lines, and install an electric line lock under the hood. First, I tried an '88 E350 master cylinder with an 88 XJ booster. After a lot of fooling around and wasted time I found out that they won't seal together properly.

Next I moved on to the '86 E350 MC that a lot of people are using. Its volume was too large for my relatively small calipers. I had a gorilla pedal that was firm even with a ton of air in the lines. The brakes performed really poorly, regardless of the pushrod length. Too far out, they would drag, and shortened to where they wouldn't only left me with minimal mechanical advantage over my calipers.

Then I grabbed an 88 XJ MC and bolted it to the 88 XJ booster. A quick pushrod length adjustment and the brakes are great. The rears will lock up awesome but the fronts don't like to as much. I can stop pretty easily on extremely steep grades, and I like the fact that I am not as dependent on the booster for braking power in case of the motor cutting off, etc.

When I move to one ton axles, I will switch back to the E350 MC. For now it is a great spare to have in the toolbox in camp. A buddy runs the E350 on his ZJ buggy with the 3/4 ton calipers on his 44 and calipers on his 14bolt also and it has a firm pedal and stops great due to the larger volume calipers.

im running the stock '02 TJ MC with ford dual pistons in the front and chevy 3/4 ton fronts in the rear and the brakes work better than ever.

Yeah I am runnig the same brake setup with all stock 93 cherokee mc and proportioning valve and abs unplugged:) it is a little squishy but no big complaints. i manly just said this to keep it to the top.:D

'89 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L, D44 rear, D30 Front

Upgraded to Late model, larger brake booster and M/C

Notes:
1. To do this swap, you need to move the washer bottle. I used a radiator reservoir for a 4 banger, which tucks in between the airbox and the fender, picking up quite a bit of space under the hood. I used two outboard washer pumps which I mounted on a bracket I made and put in the shock tower pocket on the drivers side.
2. You WILL need the 1/8" thick aluminum spacer that goes behind the booster to the firewall to get the correct rod spacing
3. Its been a while since I did it, but I remeber having to dick around quite a bit with the pedal assembly, and I think ended up welding a bracket on a '96 pedal so I could mount the old switches. I'd have to go back and check my photos to be sure.

RESULTS: Greatly increased braking, no doubt due in great measure to the larger brakes on the D44. Was able to get a really clean install and I think I only had to make two lines. I'm running 33x12s and they stop on a dime. Very happy with the results.

If intersted, I can dig thru the other computer for photos....

Not only would the pictures be great, but how about sharing specific components used? Such as MC? Booster?
Include any part numbers and dimensions you took.

- Year/model of vehicle
- Year/model/style of booster
- Year/model/style of master cylinder
- year/model of proportioning valve (if used)
- Front brake configuration
- Rear brake configuration
- Overall performance


I just did this on my 88 XJ. I DID NOT have to move the washer bottle or swap brake pedal assemblies.

I used the master cylinder, brake lines from MC to prop vlv & booster from a 2000 grand cherokee with abs. I also used the 1/4" thick spacer (not 1/8" as someone else said) from a 95 XJ to lower my pedal height some. The spacer is not required, but it does make the fitment under the hood easier (less metal manipluation)

I retained my 88 prop valve, but modifed the 2000 lines to fit (cut metric bubble flare ends off and reflared using 88 fittings and a double flare). All the old brake switches still work as the factory intended them with very little needing to be done to keep them functional (the stock brake light switch is a POS design by the way).

My front brakes are stock 88 discs, and the rear brakes are stock 88 drums.

While I can't lock them up completely, they come very close. The jeep will try to stand on it's nose for ya now and before, it just blew it's nose at ya. This may be a result of not being able to bench bleed the MC due to the routing of the brakes lines, and I probably need to adjust the rear brakes again, as they were doing most of the braking before this swap.

I easily doubled my braking power, and for the 75 bucks worth of parts (booster/mc/lines & brake fluid), it was definitely a good deal and well worth the effort.


If anyone wants to tackle this, get hold of cal on NAXJA. He was a ton of help to me with getting the parts and explaining the in's & out's of what to do. The link posted above regarding the oring removal also was a big help.

If you have all the parts in hand, a double flare tool, and someone to help bleed the brakes, you can easily do this job in 3-4 hrs.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v615/TheRamChargerMan/Cherokee/DCP_0017.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v615/TheRamChargerMan/Cherokee/DCP_0018.jpg

Okay, I'll play. '96 XJ, stock m/c and booster stock discs/calipers up front, D44 with adapted Explorer 8.8 discs in back and ZJ proportioning valve internals......stops great and will lock em up easily--------Hans

I have done this 4 years ago. WJ brake booster and master cylinder with custom brake lines in my '91 XJ. I welded the old booster rod to new booster rod. May be that's :shaking:, but no probs at all. Easy swap. :D :smokin:

http://www.msctec.de/xjusa/projects/booster/index.html

There are hundreds of threads on this topic, but they all contain a huge amount of hearsay and uninformed responses, and the true tech gets buried.

I'd like to have a thread in which only people who have actually SUCCESSFULLY completed a master cylinder upgrade should post the following:

- Year/model of vehicle
- Year/model/style of booster
- Year/model/style of master cylinder
- year/model of proportioning valve (if used)
- Front brake configuration
- Rear brake configuration
- Overall performance

What we DON'T need is a bunch of people saying "I've heard you just swap in a E350 master cylinder" or "A 79 corvette MC works".

Sorry if this is a repeat, but I know I've been quite frustrated trying to find any accurate information on this, and I know there's some others out there with the same problems.
-98 xj
-stock dual diaphragm booster
-99 durango MC
-stock distribution block with o-ring removed (had to add advance auto adj. prop valve)
-front: waggy 44 (GM 1/2 ton calipers)
-rear: ford 9 inch (80 malibu calipers) [TSM MFG. kit]
-On 35s currently, stops a heck of a lot better. Not as firm as I would have hoped, but is MORE than adequate. Rear was locking up, so I had to knock it down a bit with the adjustable proportioning valve.

Would be useful to hear from you guys experimenting with late ('99 or newer) model Dodge (Rams and Durangos) MC's onto late model ('95 or newer) XJ/WJ dual-diaphragm boosters.

- 94 XJ
- 95 ZJ dual-diaphragm booster
- 1998 Dodge 2500 MC
- 95 ZJ distribution block (ABS removed)
- Large single-piston D60 calipers (front)
- GM 1/2-ton calipers (rear)

Much better than the stock MC on the same setup.

The Dodge MC bolts directly in place and seals properly; you need to extend the pushrod by about 5/8". I made a spacer to go in the pushrod bore of the MC. It's still a little too short but I haven't had the motivation to take it apart again.

The flare fittings are the same as the stock XJ so no cutting/reflaring is necessary.

Left to right:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gallery/files/3/1/6/2/1/DSC02858.JPG

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gallery/files/3/1/6/2/1/DSC02859.JPG
'95 ZJ, '98 Dodge 2500, '94 Dodge 2500. I ordered the wrong Dodge one initially.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gallery/files/3/1/6/2/1/DSC02856.JPG

I forgot all about this thread. :)

91 MJ with stock booster. Ford 9 with drums, HP 44 disc with waggy calipers.

E-350 MC. Aside from the lines being on the wrong side of the MC it was an easy swap and it works well.

Stock 93 XJ booster
77 Mercury Marquis Master
Wilwood adjustable prop valve
78 F250 front brakes
77 Chevy K20 front brakes mounted to rear 14bolt
It'll lock up my 35s with ease.

-Joel

I have the same exact brake setup. Everything works well? No fade, nothing?

Small write up on the WJ Grad swap into a Renix XJ:

http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=924285

:

- Year/model of vehicle
- Year/model/style of booster
- Year/model/style of master cylinder
- year/model of proportioning valve (if used)
- Front brake configuration
- Rear brake configuration
- Overall performance




- '88 XJ, my heep.
- '96 XJ booster, MC and porp valve as donor junk.
- Stock front disc brakes.
- Stock rear drumb brakes.
- 37" tires
- Awesome performance

I don't know why I didn't do this sooner. I always wanted to get rear discs. After the swap I haven't even thought about it. The only issues I had was try to keep the porp valve in the location of the '96 with the bracket. By doing this I had to make new brake lines for the additional length. Also, I would have been able to keep the washer fluid tank in the stock location. My only issue was the rod. The '96 was round where my '88 has a flat end. I used my air grinder to make it flat and ended up taking too much off. I tack welded material back on and made it flat again unit the break switch worked. Not too tough, but a little frustrating. Overall, it was the best modification I've made after having 37" tires. I used to have to use both feet on the pedal if I had to stop on a steep hill. I'd still slip if it was steep enough. I can now stop anywhere with normal breaking. Can't lock them up on pavement, but just about can. I can get the tires to skip. Jeepforum has some great write ups on it. Don't think about doing it...just do it. You'll be glad you did.

http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/ARbrakeBoosterUpgrade/BrakeBoosterUpgrade.htm

http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/booster/

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/325707/15

Real World Measurements: + or - 1 or 2 thousands :)

I just pulled my master cylinder.
2001 Cherokee Sport stock master cylinder 1 inch bore.


Anyone know if all XJ cherokee MC's are 1" Bore?

Kragen lists the non-abs MC's for a '92 as 15/16" Bore...

Swapped in a '00 WJ booster and M/C... works great but I did need a adj prop valve after taking out the stock prop valve.

Pics: http://rides.webshots.com/album/561412237cWcOoT

Model-'92/XJ
Booster-'92/XJ
M/C-'97/Expedition 1.25"
P/V-'93 s-15
Front brakes-'03 SuperDuty
Rear brakes-'03 SD
Stops well on 39.5"s.



The previous MC had a wider mounting surface and a larger bore in the booster itself, which I remedied with a blockoff plate and smaller hole.
I also had to lengthen the push rod on the new MC and slot the mounting holes to fit the booster's studs.
Sealed it with RTV.



'92XJ, '97 Expedition
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p320/hintonsooner/HPIM2535.jpg



'92XJ, '97 Expedition
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p320/hintonsooner/HPIM2536.jpg


'92XJ booster
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p320/hintonsooner/HPIM2537.jpg


Used a sleeve and a short length of solid
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p320/hintonsooner/HPIM2538.jpg


Welded it to the MC
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p320/hintonsooner/HPIM2539.jpg



http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p320/hintonsooner/HPIM2540.jpg


'93 s-15 PV
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p320/hintonsooner/HPIM2541.jpg



http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p320/hintonsooner/IMG00250.jpg

Does anyone have 78 Ford fronts and 78 Chevy 3/4 rear disks with brake setup that can actually say it works well? There is a lot of information in all of the brake threads but I still cant find one that says "this is what works and it works well"

yeah i have them in my 99 and everything is stock as far as the braking system goes...i have a rear 14 bolt w/ 78 K20 front D44 calipers, discs, pads, etc. and a front 78-79 HP60 w/ dual piston caliper and it stops on a dime...no problems...guess i just got lucky...

Does anyone have 78 Ford fronts and 78 Chevy 3/4 rear disks with brake setup that can actually say it works well? There is a lot of information in all of the brake threads but I still cant find one that says "this is what works and it works well"

I got hte 14bolt rear with the disc conv. w the 44 calp. and the front is a rockjock with the stock D60 1979 dual piston 3/4t calipers and rotors

I have the 04 WJ booster and master, no prop valve and all stock lines expect extended at the ends. Stops my 3000lbs buggified XJ on 40's very nicely!

yeah i have them in my 99 and everything is stock as far as the braking system goes...i have a rear 14 bolt w/ 78 K20 front D44 calipers, discs, pads, etc. and a front 78-79 HP60 w/ dual piston caliper and it stops on a dime...no problems...guess i just got lucky...

My pedal goes to the floor. My MC is a 1991 XJ, so single booster. I think I am going to try the WJ setup. Thanks you lucky bastard

shit i gotta WJ too (it's the ole lady's ride)....that thing can't wait to stop...man i bet that is your best bet honestly (going with a WJ setup)...

There are hundreds of threads on this topic, but they all contain a huge amount of hearsay and uninformed responses, and the true tech gets buried.

I'd like to have a thread in which only people who have actually SUCCESSFULLY completed a master cylinder upgrade should post the following:

- Year/model of vehicle
- Year/model/style of booster
- Year/model/style of master cylinder
- year/model of proportioning valve (if used)
- Front brake configuration
- Rear brake configuration
- Overall performance

What we DON'T need is a bunch of people saying "I've heard you just swap in a E350 master cylinder" or "A 79 corvette MC works".

Sorry if this is a repeat, but I know I've been quite frustrated trying to find any accurate information on this, and I know there's some others out there with the same problems.

PLEASE, ADHERE TO THE ABOVE PURPOSE OF THIS THREAD! THE IDEA IS TO HAVE POSTS THAT SAY: "I'VE DONE IT CORRECTLY , MEANING WHAT i DID ACTUALLY WORKED:smokin:.
The point here is to get feed back and detail about what really works, and the part numbers/mods/adjustments required to make it work.

- Year/model of vehicle
- Year/model/style of booster
- Year/model/style of master cylinder
- year/model of proportioning valve (if used)
- Front brake configuration
- Rear brake configuration
- Overall performance


1995 ZJ

1991 XJ

1988 E350

none

Mid - late 80's 3/4 ton calipers on CJ rotors on 609

1979 Lincoln Calipers on Ford 9

Sweeet

- Year/model of vehicle
91 XJ w/abs

- Year/model/style of booster
2000 WJ

- Year/model/style of master cylinder
2000 WJ

- year/model of proportioning valve (if used)
98 TJ with the o-ring removed

- Front brake configuration
D30

- Rear brake configuration
Exploder 8.8

- Overall performance
Really soft peddel ... feels like there's air in there, but have bled it 3 times already. Can lock up 35s on dry pavement now though. ABS finally tossed.

88 mj

95 xj booster

95 xj master

stock prop valve with stock load sensing valve in rear wired for full pressure

98 xj front brakes

98 exploder rear discs

stops excellent with 35s... solid pedal and great feel. dont know if i can lock up the tires on pavement as i havent tried.

91 XJ

91XJ booster

78 Merc Marque 4 wheel disk hydroboost cylinder

Willwood Adj prop valve full open (could be taken out)

77 Chevy 3/4 ton rotors and calipers front and rear

works well (much better than the Vette cyl I used to run)

Scott

- 94 XJ
- 95 ZJ dual-diaphragm booster
- 1998 Dodge 2500 MC
- 95 ZJ distribution block (ABS removed)
- Large single-piston D60 calipers (front)
- GM 1/2-ton calipers (rear)

Much better than the stock MC on the same setup.

The Dodge MC bolts directly in place and seals properly; you need to extend the pushrod by about 5/8". I made a spacer to go in the pushrod bore of the MC. It's still a little too short but I haven't had the motivation to take it apart again.

The flare fittings are the same as the stock XJ so no cutting/reflaring is necessary.

Left to right:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gallery/files/3/1/6/2/1/DSC02858.JPG

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gallery/files/3/1/6/2/1/DSC02859.JPG
'95 ZJ, '98 Dodge 2500, '94 Dodge 2500. I ordered the wrong Dodge one initially.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gallery/files/3/1/6/2/1/DSC02856.JPG

I forgot all about this thread. :)

When he talks about cutting a 5/8 spacer, what exactly does that mean? Something 5/8" long to drop in the bore?

When he talks about cutting a 5/8 spacer, what exactly does that mean? Something 5/8" long to drop in the bore?

Yes but the most common way to do it is to remove the pushrod from the pedal and swap it with a bolt that is longer. Then round the head on the bolt to match the end of the pushrod. Here is a great thread for it

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=677082&highlight=dodge+master+cylinder

1995 xj 2dr se
axles: d44 3/4 ton front 14b ff rear
brakes" discs front and rear
proportioning valve: willwood adjustable
master cylinder: 1978 chevy 1 ton

This things stops amazing. I couldnt be happier with how the brakes work. None of my friends rigs can stop as good as mine can my setup works the best.

What mods did you have to do to the Chevy MC?

open up the 2 holes on the mc to attach it to the jeep booster that was it.

'95 XJ (with '99 dash and drivetrain)

'99 XJ dual diaphram booster (no mods with dash conversion)

'99 Durango MC (bolts up with no mods)

'95 XJ prop. valve (stock)

F150 D44 front, '76 Ford T-bird front Calipers (larger metal piston)

Ford 9" rear, '76 F150 rotors, '78 Chevy K20 Calipers

Pedal has a factory feel, Jeep stops even and will lock up the tires, extremely happy with performance and pedal feel

'95 XJ (with '99 dash and drivetrain)

'99 XJ dual diaphram booster (no mods with dash conversion)

'99 Durango MC (bolts up with no mods)

'95 XJ prop. valve (stock)

F150 D44 front, '76 Ford T-bird front Calipers (larger metal piston)

Ford 9" rear, '76 F150 rotors, '78 Chevy K20 Calipers

Pedal has a factory feel, Jeep stops even and will lock up the tires, extremely happy with performance and pedal feel

RockAuto.com lists the Durango MC as 15/16" bore... which is actually less than the XJ (at 1" bore)... what made you decide to use this one? Why do you think it's better?

On a side note... they also say the Durango uses the same MC as the Viper! http://www.slicky.net/smilies/eek3.gif

Thanks,
Billy

RockAuto.com lists the Durango MC as 15/16" bore... which is actually less than the XJ (at 1" bore)... what made you decide to use this one? Why do you think it's better?

On a side note... they also say the Durango uses the same MC as the Viper! http://www.slicky.net/smilies/eek3.gif

Thanks,
Billy


My pedal was soft with the factory XJ master. I installed the Durango MC that had a larger 1.125" piston and the pedal is back to normal. I went with the Durango MC because it bolted on with no mods. Very happy with this setup. Kevin

More info (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=903864)

I finally read BillaVista's Brake Bible (http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Brakes/) yesterday and learned a lot! I had a lot of misconceptions! Such as...

It’s my considered opinion that this interrelationship between force and movements in a 2-piston hydraulic system such as brakes is not very well understood. Consider as evidence the following scenario – a guy swaps rear disc brakes in place of drums on the rear axle of his rig. The resulting brake performance is predictably inadequate – obviously the calliper pistons are much larger than the previous drum-brake wheel-cylinder pistons – meaning that more fluid must be displaced to actuate them. The common advice found is to “swap in a larger master cylinder.” That’s great from a movement perspective – the larger MC piston will displace grater fluid, moving the calliper pistons further for a given amount of pedal travel. BUT – we now know that the result will ALSO be a decrease in force at the calliper pistons (including the front callipers) than was achieved with the smaller MC.

Of course, since the XJ has power assist brakes, most of the MCs talked about in this thread are still viable options, but I feel like I have a lot better understanding of how it all works.

Billy

I just replaced the brakes on mine.

Replacement parts:

1995 dual diaphragm booster
1995 master cylinder

replaced on a 1991 XJ with stock stuff with FSJ axles (D44/AMC20, disc/drum) and what a difference! Pedal is MUCH firmer than it used to be and it seems like the brakes generally work better than before as well. Only thing I have left to do is fix the rear drums so they work properly (worn out parts don't work worth a shit) and I am pretty sure I'll be good to go.

- 1993 Grand Cherokee
- Stock booster
- 1986 Ford f-350 Master Cylinder
- Stock proportioning valve
- 81 Ford f-350 dual piston caliper in front
- 79 Ford F-350 drums in back
- It will lock up 37 SSR's. Pedal is a little mushy for my liking.

- 2001 Cherokee
- Stock Booster
- 98 Dodge 2500 Master Cylinder
- Stock Prop Valve
- GM K20 Calipers Front
- GM K20 Calipers Rear
Works Spectacular on 35s. I just did the upgrade today. I was skeptical that it would be as direct of a bolt in as I've heard, but it really was a direct bolt in after adding a longer push rod bolt. A 1/4" fine thread x 2" bolt is the perfect length after rounding off the head. (The stock MC would stop, but the pedal went all the way to the floor.)

Thanks for all who posted this upgrade. You made my life a lot easier.

87 MJ DD with
95 XJ booster and master
95 valve
tera rear disc, front bronco 44 brakes. Stops great, best pedal on any of my rigs.. Just gotta get a brake like switch on it. I did notice on the part numbers, 94-95 XJ is like a stand alone booster #? bigger booster than the older one.

90XJ
vanco hydro boost
44 rear calipers, 60 front calipers. Adjustable valve. I cant get enough rear PSI for brakes to really work??? front alone stops the truck great. Rear just does not hold well enough?

http://solofabworks.com/images2/rigs3/hydroboost.jpg

Is it the master size or the booster problem, length of pushrod?? Id like to see some info on brake trouble shooting.. Not enough stroke on my pedal?

98 jeep cherokee (No ABS)
Ford 3/4 ton Dana 44 with dual piston calipers front
Chevy 3/4 ton front calipers on the rear
Factory master cylinder and booster


The pedal is soft but it will lock up all 4 tires. What more can you ask for?

dozer_xj
Do you still have the factory prop. valve.

'88 MJ
'03 Superduty D60 calipers- stock
'03 Superduty sterling calipers- stock
'86 E350 MC
Wilwood Valve on rear
All new lines front to rear, hard and flex
40" tires

This setup will lock the tires down at anything under 35mph. Pedal feel is great, brakes are better than stock. Might note that I'm running the original booster and the lines are run directly from the master to the front and the rear has the wilwood prop valve for adjustments.

dozer_xj
Do you still have the factory prop. valve.

Yes. Like say it may not be the best set up but she stops fast

1992 XJ
Stock booster
1977 Mercury Grand Marquis master cylinder (4 wheel disc variant)
1 1/8" bore
Wilwood prop valve
1970s Ford dual piston 3/4, 1 ton calipers
1985 GM front single piston 3/4 ton calipers (Dana 60 disc conversion kit)

*Stock combination valve removed. Rear line runs through Wilwood prop valve. Front line enters brass 'T'.

Jeep weighs a little over 4k (I would guess 4200lbs) with 38.5x12.5 SXs on re centered H1s (about 110lbs of wheel and tire). I wouldnt say it stops like a track car, but way better than my bone stock 2wd '92 XJ. Im going to bleed again to see if the pedal will stiffen up any more, but I am over all happy with the way it performs.

hey, everything here seems way more complex than what I did.

88 mj

got the complete setup (mc, booster, prop valve) out of a 96 cherokee,

went home put it in, fit perfectly, its a dual diaphragm booster to replace the rusted out single diaphram that was in their. I have 8 lug 3/4 ton axles with disk brakes front and rear. this setup stops great, pedal feels exactly the same as stock as far as movement, will lock up 38's.

whole setup cost me like 30 bucks. ive got pics if anyones interested.

hey, everything here seems way more complex than what I did.

88 mj

got the complete setup (mc, booster, prop valve) out of a 96 cherokee,

went home put it in, fit perfectly, its a dual diaphragm booster to replace the rusted out single diaphram that was in their. I have 8 lug 3/4 ton axles with disk brakes front and rear. this setup stops great, pedal feels exactly the same as stock as far as movement, will lock up 38's.

whole setup cost me like 30 bucks. ive got pics if anyones interested.

Wow! That is quite interresting... First time I have heard of the stock MC working well with this type of set up. Do you have single or dual piston calipers up front? Which calipers in the rear? Its hard for me to believe that a master cylinder/prop valve used in a disc/drum set up would work with larger calipers front and a massive change in surface area being pushed with rear calipers. I guess the proof is in the pudding so to speak...

Must be small brakes, because on 4 piston calipers on all 4 corners, my stock brake pusher went to the floor.

same here...

My pedal was soft with the factory XJ master. I installed the Durango MC that had a larger 1.125" piston and the pedal is back to normal. I went with the Durango MC because it bolted on with no mods. Very happy with this setup. Kevin

More info (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=903864)
Did you actually verify the ID of the MC's bore? How do you know it's 1.125?
If your packaging states it's 1.125, who is the supplier, and what is the part number?

I haven't driven the mj too much, (It still needs exhaust and other work done before it is ready to wheel) but the short drives I have taken with it, the brakes have worked well,

I'm guessing I have 2 piston calipers, its just stock 3/4 ton chevy stuff.

I read about it is a jp magazine article, and it said the 95 and 96 cherokee setup was the easiest to swap in, It literally required no modifications just bolted in and worked great.

heres a link to the article,

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/154_0810_cheap_jeep_brake_system_upgrades/index.html

It'll be running in a few weeks, I'll have to let you guys know how they work, Im kinda skeptical now that I think about it.

1996 ZJ with HP 44 and 9-inch axle swap. Also did Dodge knuckles out swap on front D44 to get flat-tops for hi-steer... so Dodge 1/2 ton front calips from an 87 Ramcharger

I have struggled with brakes ever since I built my rig. I finally found a set-up that gives me confidence on the trail and really, really work well.

Brief description on what didn't work...

A) stock booster/mc would not hold with Dodge 1/2 ton fronts and 9-inch drums. Put pedal to floor... would not hold.

B) "Kung Fu" MC/booster swap so the typical single diaphram booster from XJ and E350 MC. Way too firm of pedal, slightly better hold, but still scary in places where you really need your brakes to hold

What works: and just trail tested in Moab last weekend

TSM Disc brakes for the 9inch with e-brake calips
Still using Dodge 1/2 ton calips up front on the D44
Put stock 96 ZJ Booster back in due to disc/disc set-up and dual diaphram
MC from 2000 Dodge Durango (this was a direct bolt in... no mods at all)
No proportioning valve or residual valves

These are the best brakes I've ever had. Nice progressively firm pedal like in a new car. These brakes hold!!!! And the e-brakes work great too.

Finally, no more worrying about brakes.

Finally up-graded my booster to dual-diaphragm.

Front brakes '76 Chevy 1/2-ton
Rear brakes '85 Cad Eldorado with e-brake
Booster '01 Cherokee XJ Cardone # 54-73154
Master cylinder '03 Dodge Durango 1.125 Cardone #13-2967
3/16-40inch tube with 10m-1.0 (rear port of MC) bubble flare at both ends Steelhydraulics.com #AA1142.
12m-1.0 tube nut (fits front port on MC) Fedhillusa.com #M6-3

Brakes are the best they've ever been! But two areas need addressing: (1), the pedal sets 2 inches higher than stock, and that's with a 1/4 inch spacer between booster and firewall.
(2), rears lock up way to easily for safety.

For (1), I'm planning on pulling the brake pedal out, and adding a "bump" on rearward edge so I can re-drill hole for booster rod.
Note: '01 booster rod to brake pedal arm is ~1 inch longer than early XJ/WJ booster's.

For (2), I'll add a rear adjustable proportioning valve.

Booster did not require mods to firewall. Booster rod needed slight mods (but accurate) to make early XJ brake light switch work.
Had to "juggle" stock combination valve location to obtain alignment of rear brake-line fitting.
Moved the windshield washer bottle forward ~1 inch. All electrical connectors reached OK, but did have to extend one of the rubber hoses running to the bottle, by ~4".

Highly recommend converting to a dual-diaphragm booster!!

I just finished my write-up of a Corvette MC install. I haven't driven it yet, but it's basically the same setup I had on my last rig and it worked well. Here's the link if anybody is interested: http://www.bsfab.net/?p=58
Billy

Not flaming, but why did you use flexible line? You could have hard lined it... Just an observation... It's not a race car, so the swell of the line wont be noticed, but hard line would be more desirable... Looks good:flipoff2:

BTW, the '77-'78 Grand marquis 4 wheel disc MC is passenger side output and no modification needed, it bolts right up. Bore size is 1".

Not flaming, but why did you use flexible line? You could have hard lined it... Just an observation... It's not a race car, so the swell of the line wont be noticed, but hard line would be more desirable... Looks good:flipoff2:

BTW, the '77-'78 Grand marquis 4 wheel disc MC is passenger side output and no modification needed, it bolts right up. Bore size is 1".

I used flexible line because I HATE running hard line (as I noted). The only reason I have ANY hard line is because the damn flex line is expensive!

Besides, as you point out, I won't notice any swelling of the line, so why would hard line be more desirable? :confused:

The stock Cherokee master cylinder has a 1" bore too, so why even unbolt it to install the Grand Marquis one?

Billy

-----
BTW, the '77-'78 Grand marquis 4 wheel disc MC is passenger side output and no modification needed, it bolts right up. Bore size is 1".

The Grand Marque MC I used has a 1.125 bore. But your correct on "bolting right up".

The Grand Marque MC I used has a 1.125 bore. But your correct on "bolting right up".

That would make more sense.

I went with the Vette MC because I was sick and tired of researching... I'd used it before and it worked well and it was cheap, so I ordered it again. http://www.slicky.net/smilies/shrug.gif
Billy

Yep, 1.125". Wow, I guess I was looking at the 2 wheel disc MC specs this whole time! Worried me, I had to go out and make sure that I actually have the 4 wheel disc variant... Im good...:smokin:

Did mine today. Been 'getting by' with my factory XJ master cylinder, even though I have 1 ton axles/brakes.

Im running a factory 86 XJ booster, 86 E350 master cylinder with the bolt holes elongated to match the booster, eliminated the combination valve. My front calipers are dual piston 88 F350 on a D60, rear is (unfortunately) still the F350 drums on a Sterling rear. As long as the rear shoes are adjusted properly, it now stops on a dime.

For my 1991 MJ we used a 1996 XJ master/booster/proportioning valve. It was a direct replacement and allowed me to eliminate the rear Load Sensitive Prop Valve. I was able to reuse one of the hard lines running to the rear, just hooked it up to the proper port on the XJ valve.

This thread was VERY helpful to me so here's whats' working so far for me.

91 XJ pedal
95 XJ Dual booster
99 Ram3500 VAN 1 1/4 bore (the van is shorter than the truck)
Howe Racing twin piston front calipers. Dual 2.125" pistons on 75 Chev rotors
Gm metric rear calipers on 88 Chev light duty rotors.
SSBC rear adjustable proportioning valve, run full open, might remove it.

I had the setup in the rear with the stock 91 single booster/merc M/C with single piston 75 Chev calipers in the front, and the rears worked great but the front was lacking. And the pedal was always low. So I tried this setup. So far its OK, everything works great, but you need alot more pedal pressure now. Might try a durango M/C later.

Dingo

This thread was VERY helpful to me so here's whats' working so far for me.

91 XJ pedal
95 XJ Dual booster
99 Ram3500 VAN 1 1/4 bore (the van is shorter than the truck)
Howe Racing twin piston front calipers. Dual 2.125" pistons on 75 Chev rotors
Gm metric rear calipers on 88 Chev light duty rotors.
SSBC rear adjustable proportioning valve, run full open, might remove it.

I had the setup in the rear with the stock 91 single booster/merc M/C with single piston 75 Chev calipers in the front, and the rears worked great but the front was lacking. And the pedal was always low. So I tried this setup. So far its OK, everything works great, but you need alot more pedal pressure now. Might try a durango M/C later.

Dingo

Out researching for a project, thought I would add

Back to the top for some more tech..... :D

Might want to check out your pedal line up with the pushrod from the booster. Im pretty sure the 91 and 95-96 pedal have diffrent heights of where the hole is in them (about an inch off). You may be pushing the rod in at an angle causing you to have a weak pedal and not fully pushing into the booster. This will also cause the booster to pre maturely wear.

I finally got mine the way I want it.

98 XJ dual booster
78 Mercury Marquis master (dual discs) 1-1/8" bore
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/images/product_images/images/centric/CE130.61023.jpg
Wilwood proportioning valve
http://www.wilwood.com/Images/MasterCylinders/Master%20Cylinder%20Photos-Large/260-8419-lg.jpg
Chevy 1 ton calipers in the front
Chevy 1/2 calipers in the rear


Pedal is firm but not too firm. Once I got the plunger the perfect length everything came together.

This setup can lock up my 38.5" Creepys on command.

I finally got mine the way I want it.

98 XJ dual booster
78 Mercury Marquis master (dual discs) 1-1/8" bore

Wilwood proportioning valve
Chevy 1 ton calipers in the front
Chevy 1/2 calipers in the rear


Pedal is firm but not too firm. Once I got the plunger the perfect length everything came together.

This setup can lock up my 38.5" Creepys on command.

What year rig??? Pre 97? If so what did you do to overcome the issue of the booster push rod to pedal being too long?? Cut re weld? Thread? Swap rods?

Also I see some are using the ZJ booster.... Ive searched and wondered what mods there were to getting the ZJ booster in? And what to do with the sensor poking out of the booster?

nothin nobody? Been searching all over the net and really dont see any detailed writeups of the ZJ booster being used on a XJ. Was hoping some of the guys who said they used them would post up what they had to do to mod to get them in. Ive heard they been used but no tech on the install

What year rig??? Pre 97? If so what did you do to overcome the issue of the booster push rod to pedal being too long?? Cut re weld? Thread? Swap rods?

Also I see some are using the ZJ booster.... Ive searched and wondered what mods there were to getting the ZJ booster in? And what to do with the sensor poking out of the booster?

1990 XJ

I honestly don't remember what was done. I was working on something else while my buddy put in the booster. I should see him tonight. If he remembers how it was done I will post it up.

I honestly don't really remember anything that had to be modified. But I will keep you posted.

Yea let me know. I know that anything 97+ the rod is too long. Needs to be shortened. If shortened with the factory end your stock pedal will have to be re drilled or you can use the pre 95 rod end and hole will be the same location on the pedal.

Still looking for info on the ZJ swaps i keep hearing that people have done..... Gotta do a buddies rig soon when he gets back from Iraq and ZJ boosters are all over the local yards. I know that the part numbers are different from the duals on the 97+ XJ and ZJs. I have heard the firewall is angled more resulting in some sort of plate to be modified to angle the booster back level........??? Donno was hoping someone who did it would clarify this.... and yes i have searched for over a week on all boards and google :flipoff2: all i hear is its been done just not a write up :D

From what I remember, we had to drill out the eye. The length was ok but we were unable to use the brake switch unless we did a good amount of modifications. I still need to go back and address the switch thing. (I need working brake lights for KOH)

From what I remember, we had to drill out the eye. The length was ok but we were unable to use the brake switch unless we did a good amount of modifications. I still need to go back and address the switch thing. (I need working brake lights for KOH)

well ill have to just go and pull it and measure it out. The eyelet mod isnt that big of a deal just was curious due to the length and angle of the booster on the firewall. Why not grind the end of the eye flat and use your stock brake light switch?? PITA when its in the rig but can be done... pull the pedal out

well ill have to just go and pull it and measure it out. The eyelet mod isnt that big of a deal just was curious due to the length and angle of the booster on the firewall. Why not grind the end of the eye flat and use your stock brake light switch?? PITA when its in the rig but can be done... pull the pedal out

We needed it done very quickly and never really went back to it.

We needed it done very quickly and never really went back to it.

Well when you get back at checking it....

still looking for the mods used in using the GC boosters. Maybe ill just start a new thread and see what kind of crap that comes up with

I just installed the 99 Dodge 2500 MC with a 97 booster in my 94 xj. Stock 94 proportioning valve with o ring removed. Front 78 D60 dual piston calipers and rear Chevy single piston calipers. Rear locks up front does not. Does anyone know if the 99 MC has a check valve in it? I guess I need either an adjustable prop. valve for the rear? Or a zj, 4 wheel disk, prop valve?

I guess I need an adjustable prop. valve for the rear?
Is that a good guess or a question... cause questions are not allowed..:flipoff2:

Still looking for info on the ZJ swaps i keep hearing that people have done..... Gotta do a buddies rig soon when he gets back from Iraq and ZJ boosters are all over the local yards. I know that the part numbers are different from the duals on the 97+ XJ and ZJs. I have heard the firewall is angled more resulting in some sort of plate to be modified to angle the booster back level........??? Donno was hoping someone who did it would clarify this.... and yes i have searched for over a week on all boards and google :flipoff2: all i hear is its been done just not a write up :D

Done last week on '89 XJ
'93 ZJ dual booster
'93 ZJ master cyllinder
autoventilated brembo disk (oem)
thermoquiet pad & shoes

the booster is direct bolt on, no any touch to uniframe perfect allignment and lenght of the push rod.
Flattered push rod back to keep working breake lights.
The MC reservoir was modified by tapping the holes of ABS autobleed (I don't have ABS).
Just moved the wiper tank forward 1"
Not still perfect but I've to wait pad & shoes break-in to say...

95 XJ with 14 bolt rear disc conversion and Tera 60 front with Chevy knuckles. I do NOT know the front calipers as they were fine when I bought them and didn't attempt to make any changes... Everything else replaced. Brakes are awesome and can lock up the 37" tires.

Part numbers:

http://www.sija.org/robs/brakes.bmp


Measuring from the mounting surface to the tip of the plunger was right at 1" different. However, I cut about 3/16" off the end of the 2-1/2x1/4 grade 8 bolt so I could use a jam nut. Simply kept threading the bolt in until it didn't contact the MC anymore and then tightened the jam nut. Pulled the guts from the proportioning valve and welded up the vent...

http://www.sija.org/robs/brakes2.jpg
http://www.sija.org/robs/brakes3.jpg


Dodge master cylinder installed

http://www.sija.org/robs/brakes1.jpg

Front brake hoses installed. Used 1/8" stock and 5/8 nut to make mounting bracket. Stupid simple.

http://www.sija.org/robs/brakes4.jpg

Hose to rear caliper. It's tied up with zip tie to keep out of reach of trail crap...

http://www.sija.org/robs/brakes5.jpg

Made connector (male to male) so I could combine the 95YJ and the intermediate GM brake hose for lots of rear flex...

http://www.sija.org/robs/brakes6.jpg

I finally got around to installing my Ram 2500 MC(1.25") onto my 96 ZJ's booster. It bolts right up no problem, but will need a custom pushrod(aka modified 1/4" bolt). On my ZJ, it clears the hood just fine to, I can fit my hand in between the hood and the cap with room to spare. Ill need to custom bend some lines to the prop valve, and I am reusing the ZJ dual disc prop valve. My calipers are 79 F250 dual piston fronts, and K20 front calipers in the rear.

http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab259/mrfreeze555/ZJ%20Overhaul/IMAG0518.jpg
http://i869.photobucket.com/albums/ab259/mrfreeze555/ZJ%20Overhaul/IMAG0521.jpg

just finished mine.
89 xj
stock booster
78 mercury marquis mc 1 1/8 bore 4 wheel disk
removed o-ring from prop valve
73 k-20 calipers on 14 bolt
stock chevy dana 60 single piston calipers front
stops great, stops easily withaw4 231/300 doubler in double low:D
everything was bolt on and cheap.
further test confirms locks up my of 37 military tires on double beadlocks on the street no prob

2001 XJ
Stock 01 dual diaphram booster
1998 Dogdge 2500 Master Cylinder Raybestos brand
Stock proportining vlave, O ring removed
HP D44 front axle from a 78 F250 with the big dual piston ford calipers.
D60 rear axle from a 79 F250, disk conversion with 80's Eldorado calipers.

I installed the 98 2500 MC. It did bolt to the 01 booster no issues, no modifications required. The 2500 MC is longer than the stock one, and has a much larger resivior. When I bolted it in I didn't think the hood would clear but it did.

I had to remove the bracket that holds the distribution block/proportioning vlave as it would not fit around the larger MC. I had to make new hard lines from the distribution block to the MC as the stock ones were to short. For the push rod, I used a 1/4 x 28 x 3" bolt and cut the hex head off. I cut it so that when threaded in as far as it would go, it was about 3/4" longer than stock.

I went with the 1.25" piston in the 2500 MC rather than the 1.18" Durango because the 78 Ford F250 that my front axle and brakes came from had a 1.25" piston MC.

Performance is excellent. Good pedal feel, it doesn't go to the floor like it did with the stock MC. I can lock up 37"s on the street on demand. My only issue is the rears lock up well before the fronts. I will be putting the O ring back on the proportioning vlalve. If that doesn't work, I'll be installing an adjustable proportioning valve.

It's a great knowing that I can stop in hurry now.

90 MJ
Chevy D60 with stock calipers, 14 Bolt rear 86 1/2 ton calipers
Stock 90 MJ booster/ 86 E350 master/ gutted XJ prop valve

Stops the truck in it's tracks in double low with 39's

98 XJ

D44 with 8 lug outers, dual piston calipers
D60-ISU with waggy front calipers, impala SS pads

stock 98XJ booster
99 dodge ram 2500 MC

removed the stock pushrod, bought a longer bolt (either 3" or 2.75") and cut the head off and threaded it into the booster. pedal feels better than stock, engagement is at the perfect height. the pedal feels like a stock cherokee, but if i give it a pump it is very firm and there is a lot of power. the rears lock up easy but i need to either gut the stocker or get an adjustable prop valve.

1990 MJ
2004 Superduty hydroboost unit (original, non-rebuilt unit with 60k miles)
1972 Corvette MC
No prop valve
88 F350 front dual piston calipers
99 E350 rear dual piston calipers

Stops great, locks up my 40" MTRs at will, great pedal feel.

Little modification requried for the hydroboost (cut reweld pedal rod with 90 MJ rod end, redrill plate to bolt to firewall). No hesitation when slamming the brakes and jerking the wheel.

http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac84/MoparManiacCuda66/1990%20MJ/IMG_2684.jpg

http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac84/MoparManiacCuda66/1990%20MJ/IMG_2693.jpg

http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac84/MoparManiacCuda66/1990%20MJ/IMG_2697.jpg

http://i888.photobucket.com/albums/ac84/MoparManiacCuda66/1990%20MJ/IMG_2728.jpg

Don't remember seeing this here, but you can reverse the reservoir on the Dodge 2500 ('99-up) for hood clearance on an XJ. Not sure that it is needed on a stock0ish XJ, but the XJ buggy I am working on, I needed to do this so the hood would close.

http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd376/davethrelkeld/Photo446.jpg