I finally got sick of screwing around with the D30 and D44 axles that I had in my YJ and was inspired by all the 1-ton builds I was following on here so I decided to step up and put some D60's under the old YJ. I will be running the axles full-width with 10" wide rims 4.5" BS. A stroker/NV4500/ATLAS 4spd setup will follow when money permits. So, here's the build. Any advice or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Vehicle: 1991 YJ
Drivetrain: 4.0L/AX-15/NP231
Axles to be installed:
1979 Ford HP60 front and 1979 Ford D60 FF rear
--5.38 gears/OX locker front/Spool rear/35spl shafts all around
Other mods to be installed:
Stretching to ~105" WB
RE 1.5" SOA springs/shackle reversal/custom stretch rear
Hydro-assist/high steer
Fuel Cell
Custom high-line hood ???
Full roll cage w/ mastercraft seats and harnesses tied into frame
Planning on running 42" tires and undecided on which beadlocks to run

Before:

http://aycu39.webshots.com/image/23678/2004988505739946747_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004988505739946747)

Starting the tear down:

http://aycu29.webshots.com/image/23468/2004909413495728723_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004909413495728723)

http://aycu05.webshots.com/image/22924/2004935190263400318_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004935190263400318)

http://aycu15.webshots.com/image/21934/2004924483429249751_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004924483429249751)

Let me know what ya think and if you have any advice/questions/comments.

ya more pics lol

i would boat side it to get rid of the rust

And get rid of some of the window stickers so you can see where your going. :p

I will be really happy if you can took front and rear pics as i'm not sure if the width with full size axle is what I want. Maybe with 16'' and more backspacing but have to got an idea of the look

I will be really happy if you can took front and rear pics as i'm not sure if the width with full size axle is what I want. Maybe with 16'' and more backspacing but have to got an idea of the look

As soon as I get the axles under it I'll take some pics for you. The front axle that is in there now is just a little trailer axle so I can wheel it in and out of the garage.

i would boat side it to get rid of the rust

Don't worry...all of the rust will be gone when it's done. I'm doing all the body work while I'm at it. :smokin:

And get rid of some of the window stickers so you can see where your going.

x2.....or loose the windshield all together

What suspention? I'm really liking my 4 link setup.

zman

x2.....or loose the windshield all together

I'm getting a brand new windshield frame (for street legality) and putting a lexan windshield in. :flipoff2:

What suspention? I'm really liking my 4 link setup.

zman

Rubicon Express 1.5" SOA leaf springs front and rear for now. If I don't like it and run into some extra green later on down the line I might 4-link the rear, but not right away.

Any opinions on full-hydro vs. hydro-assist?

I will be driving a small amount on the street and I know full-hydro isn't legal but i'm thinking unless I'm in an accident this won't be an issue. The Jeep is set up manual steering right now so I have nothing to start with anyway. Any thoughts/ideas?

you might want to get your flame suit ready

Any opinions on full-hydro vs. hydro-assist?

I will be driving a small amount on the street and I know full-hydro isn't legal but i'm thinking unless I'm in an accident this won't be an issue. The Jeep is set up manual steering right now so I have nothing to start with anyway. Any thoughts/ideas?

IF it is set up correctly (varies from person to person), you'll be fine with full hydro on the street. The issues come from people being stupid and running low-buck/cheap/no very strong setups. A hydro system from POS (Station on the board) or the likes will be fine on the street. He can have it set up to have return-to-center capabilities, along with the ability to turn the tires with the motor off. The legality is kind of blurry, but IIRC no one has found anything DIRECTLY AGAINST full hydro. Gen 4x4 has a lot of threads pertaining to this though, so check them for more information.

IF it is set up correctly (varies from person to person), you'll be fine with full hydro on the street. The issues come from people being stupid and running low-buck/cheap/no very strong setups. A hydro system from POS (Station on the board) or the likes will be fine on the street. He can have it set up to have return-to-center capabilities, along with the ability to turn the tires with the motor off. The legality is kind of blurry, but IIRC no one has found anything DIRECTLY AGAINST full hydro. Gen 4x4 has a lot of threads pertaining to this though, so check them for more information.

Thanks I appreciate the input...I'll have to check out Gen 4x4. I still have a lot of work to do before making a decision on the steering.

If you have practice drinking and driving then you should be cool with full hydro on the street. I have driven a few full hydro systems set up by reputable vendors on the board and that is the "loose" feeling that I get everytime. I am not saying that full hydro doesnt have its place, just saying it isn't for everyone. I prefer the tight steering response and tracking of hydro assist.

I'd second hydro assist. Can be done cheap and reliable. Full hydro is pricy (when done right) and not allways needed.

I was leaning towards hydro-assist myself also. A few people have reccommended full hydro to me but no matter what the discussion you always get votes for both sides. I think I'll go hydro assist. Thanks for all the input. Keep it comin

Change of plans, picked up a Dodge NV4500HD for cheap :D so the AX-15 and NP231 are coming out and the NV4500 going in with an Atlas 4 speed.

Haven't made much new progress yet...still waiting on my stuff from blue torch

Pics coming soon

What ratio Atlas 4sp did you pick?

10.34 overall (1:1, 2.72:1, 3.8:1, 10.34:1)
I couldn't see ever needing the other one (1:1, 2:1, 2.72:1, 5.8:1) the two individual lows are too close to each other for my liking. Plus, with my setup the 3.8:1 will give me a crawl ratio in first gear of 115:1, should be about right for rock crawling and such. The 2.72 will be nice for trails, and the 10.34:1 will be nice to say that I have an overall crawl ratio of 312:1 :flipoff2:

You will like the 4500/Atlas/stroker combo. I am running the same setup in a YJ with 5.13s.
Crawl on the rocks and cruise on the freeway 75 mph @ 2300rpm.

Why screw around with the OX lockers ? Just get a set of Detroits and be done with it.

Why screw around with the OX lockers ? Just get a set of Detroits and be done with it.


I'm going be running hydro assist, but I still like the idea of being able to turn easily while on the trail. With the wheelbase at ~105" its already going to turn like a 15 passenger van. Sure I could just disengage the front axle to make tight turns, but why not have a selectable in the front that I can only engage when needed? I plan on doing everything in this rig--rocks/trails/mud whatever I can find (no so many places to rock crawl here in NE Ohio). Many of the trails you don't need a front locker to easily tackle, but it'll be there when I need it. I haven't bought the front axle stuff yet so we'll see what I decide to buy.

I am currently finishing my YJ with 60 and 14 bolt. 350/TH400 and 3.0 Atlas with 5.38 gears and 44 TSLs. A few words of advice. When you get your frame out take the time to cut all the usless factory stuff off like sway bar and shock mounts. The only thing I used was the body mounts. I like the simplicity of leaf springs and they flex as much as I need to. It is also really easy to stretch your wheelbase. We have found the BDS 2.5 YJ rear springs hold up the best to the spring over and V-8. I cosidered the RE 1.5, but did not know anyone who had run them. I am running Howe hydro assist, but have yet to test it. If you have any specific questions let me know. The white jeep is mine, and the maroon CJ is what I am shooting for. It works really well. :grinpimp:

Looks tough! I need those front fenders!

That maroon CJ looks to have been influenced by Sam.. looks good. I always loved his brown CJ7, that thing fawkin got it :smokin:

I'm going be running hydro assist, but I still like the idea of being able to turn easily while on the trail. With the wheelbase at ~105" its already going to turn like a 15 passenger van. Sure I could just disengage the front axle to make tight turns, but why not have a selectable in the front that I can only engage when needed? I plan on doing everything in this rig--rocks/trails/mud whatever I can find (no so many places to rock crawl here in NE Ohio). Many of the trails you don't need a front locker to easily tackle, but it'll be there when I need it. I haven't bought the front axle stuff yet so we'll see what I decide to buy.

How about the Tru Trac or ARB ?

Not trying to bash the OX but I just do not like the idea of the cable.
Even with a full Kilby OBA set up on my YJ the ARB just doesnt seem to be as reliable as I`d like it to be.

Again not bashing anything. It`s just that I like to keep the axle parts in the axle and let the wheels do the driving.

I am currently finishing my YJ with 60 and 14 bolt. 350/TH400 and 3.0 Atlas with 5.38 gears and 44 TSLs. A few words of advice. When you get your frame out take the time to cut all the usless factory stuff off like sway bar and shock mounts. The only thing I used was the body mounts. I like the simplicity of leaf springs and they flex as much as I need to. It is also really easy to stretch your wheelbase. We have found the BDS 2.5 YJ rear springs hold up the best to the spring over and V-8. I cosidered the RE 1.5, but did not know anyone who had run them. I am running Howe hydro assist, but have yet to test it. If you have any specific questions let me know. The white jeep is mine, and the maroon CJ is what I am shooting for. It works really well. :grinpimp:



I appreciate the advice and will definitely keep you in mind if I have any questions. I've already began cutting all the useless shit off of my frame, and while I'm at it I have to repair a few holes. It's going to be a long project but I decided not to cut any corners and do what I want done right away (except for the stroker...that will come later).:D

How about the Tru Trac or ARB ?

Not trying to bash the OX but I just do not like the idea of the cable.
Even with a full Kilby OBA set up on my YJ the ARB just doesnt seem to be as reliable as I`d like it to be.

Again not bashing anything. It`s just that I like to keep the axle parts in the axle and let the wheels do the driving.

A truetrac won't ever give 100% lock if I need it. My only problem with ARB's is I don't always trust all the electronics involved (relays, compressors, etc.) I also don't like the air lines running down there, I already ripped off a posi-lok cable off of my D30 and that was a hell of a lot stronger than an air line. I like the idea of the OX because its all mechanical, and if set up the right way, can be the most reliable selectable locker out there.

You will like the 4500/Atlas/stroker combo. I am running the same setup in a YJ with 5.13s.
Crawl on the rocks and cruise on the freeway 75 mph @ 2300rpm.

Why screw around with the OX lockers ? Just get a set of Detroits and be done with it.

what is your wheelbase and how long is your driveshaft?
Trying to figure out whether to get the flange to run a 1350 CV rear shaft or just get a 1410 yoke on the back of the atlas. Front shaft I'm just going to run 1410's on both ends.

Im running welded rear, detroit front with hydro assist. My wheelbase is only 101 but Im happy with how it turns. I think an OX in the rear would be kick ass with some cutting brakes :grinpimp:
I might go this route when I upgrade the stock shafts to 35spline.

Your just going to use it to play in the mud anyway!!! :flipoff2:

Atlest it has square headlights!! :D

I go ox all the way... cable actuated= dependability

Your just going to use it to play in the mud anyway!!! :flipoff2:

Atlest it has square headlights!! :D

we'll see there captain uni-body...don't worry I'll pull you out :flipoff2:

Got some more work done this past weekend and had a chance to take a few more pics.
I hauled the drivetrain and the engine out

http://aycu03.webshots.com/image/25002/2003825433795454092_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2003825433795454092)

Installed the SRS and the front suspension

http://aycu16.webshots.com/image/25215/2003881372757346977_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2003881372757346977)

http://aycu25.webshots.com/image/23264/2003854864599857671_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2003854864599857671)

http://aycu35.webshots.com/image/23674/2003812347588074646_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2003812347588074646)

Soon to be installed:

http://aycu21.webshots.com/image/24700/2005578134456712768_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2005578134456712768)

http://aycu01.webshots.com/image/25000/2005588030418900408_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2005588030418900408)

The front axle goes in this weekend and hopefully advance adapters will get my Atlas here in 6-8 weeks like they told me. :D

Inspiring to say the least.

What tranny is that?

here.....Change of plans, picked up a Dodge NV4500HD for cheap :D so the AX-15 and NP231 are coming out and the NV4500 going in with an Atlas 4 speed.

Those out there running the ATLAS 4 speeds...What are you running cable shift or mech. shift? Do you like it, and why?

That maroon CJ looks to have been influenced by Sam.. looks good. I always loved his brown CJ7, that thing fawkin got it :smokin:

Looks like someone painted the old Heepee a new color and went with everything else. Definitely influenced by Sam's old jeep though.

NV4500 and an Atlas 4 speed....too many gearing options lol. It will be cool to have all that gearing.

NV4500 and an Atlas 4 speed....too many gearing options lol. It will be cool to have all that gearing.

Yeah, I figure I'll probably seldom use 10.34:1 (crawl ratio in 1st 313:1) but it will be nice to have the other two options for trails/rocks.

Got the front axle 50% installed over the weekend. I have to get 2 new u-bolts for the drivers side (one is too long and the other one is too skinny). I brazed the stock spring center pin hole in the driver side spring perch closed and drilled a new one 3/8" closer to the pumpkin, drilled the webbing in the bottom of the housing to snake the U-bolt through and set the drivers side. With this set up I could make a few final measurements and weld on the passenger side spring perch.

http://aycu26.webshots.com/image/23985/2004417188905402636_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004417188905402636)
http://aycu07.webshots.com/image/24486/2004402008780584168_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004402008780584168)
http://aycu01.webshots.com/image/23760/2004408767139877722_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004408767139877722)
http://aycu14.webshots.com/image/25013/2004465262021590269_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004465262021590269)
http://aycu35.webshots.com/image/25154/2004419892537315443_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004419892537315443)
http://aycu34.webshots.com/image/23153/2004406438580822400_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004406438580822400)
http://aycu40.webshots.com/image/24559/2004446364517198209_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004446364517198209)
http://aycu26.webshots.com/image/23065/2004497335290013064_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004497335290013064)

There are still some finishing touches that need to be done on the front like fixing the drivers side u-bolt issue and a little bit of clearancing on the drivers side spring plate, but the hard part is done. Next step: install the rear axle!

I just installed full hydro on my jeep with 40" Iroks. I love it and no regrets. If you are doing little street duty I would do the full hydro. After adding it all up it was not that much more than Hydro Asssit.

zman

I just installed full hydro on my jeep with 40" Iroks. I love it and no regrets. If you are doing little street duty I would do the full hydro. After adding it all up it was not that much more than Hydro Asssit.

zman

Thanks for the advice man I'm not 100% sure on what I'm doing for the steering yet

Got the front axle 50% installed over the weekend. I have to get 2 new u-bolts for the drivers side (one is too long and the other one is too skinny). I brazed the stock spring center pin hole in the driver side spring perch closed and drilled a new one 3/8" closer to the pumpkin, drilled the webbing in the bottom of the housing to snake the U-bolt through and set the drivers side. With this set up I could make a few final measurements and weld on the passenger side spring perch.
http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q182/bstewart91yj/frontaxle1.jpg

There are still some finishing touches that need to be done on the front like fixing the drivers side u-bolt issue and a little bit of clearancing on the drivers side spring plate, but the hard part is done. Next step: install the rear axle!

loving the build man! im currently putting in a hp ford d44 full width in my yj. i have a quick question maybe someone can help me out with. when measuring up for the spring perches how can i get this front end in so i have equal amouts of tires sticking out on each side of the jeep? my friend told me its 1.5" out on each side of the frame for the shackle mounts for a full width. but im kinda mixed about where to place in underneath. can anyone help me out with this one? i put the rear shackle mounts at 42.75" and thats where im putting the spring perches on the axle at. thanks all!

is that a bolt on shackle reversal kit (front mounts)? i had a similar setup that was bolt on that didnt last long before it ripped from the frame. that was with 39.5 iroks. weld them on if you can. otherwise, sweet build!

is that a bolt on shackle reversal kit (front mounts)? i had a similar setup that was bolt on that didnt last long before it ripped from the frame. that was with 39.5 iroks. weld them on if you can. otherwise, sweet build!

I will definitely be welding these brackets on when the time comes. I'm going to remove the front axle and all the SRS mounts and POR-15 the entire frame before welding them on though. I have to wait to paint the frame until I tie the cage in. So, I have to put the drivetrain in, get the rear axle in, put the body on, install the cage, tie it into the frame, remove the cage and body and then paint the frame. :smokin:

loving the build man! im currently putting in a hp ford d44 full width in my yj. i have a quick question maybe someone can help me out with. when measuring up for the spring perches how can i get this front end in so i have equal amouts of tires sticking out on each side of the jeep? my friend told me its 1.5" out on each side of the frame for the shackle mounts for a full width. but im kinda mixed about where to place in underneath. can anyone help me out with this one? i put the rear shackle mounts at 42.75" and thats where im putting the spring perches on the axle at. thanks all!

I would accurately measure the axle width from C to C. Measure your exact spring center to spring center width. Find subtract this measurement from the C to C measurement and divide by 2. This will let you know how far in the center of the mount should be. If you haven't outboarded your springs yet and have to, add enough on either side to clear the housing on the pumpkin side and repeat with your new measurement.
This might not be the easiest to understand but it makes sense to me. Anyone feel free to clarify or correct if you feel it necessary.

I would accurately measure the axle width from C to C. Measure your exact spring center to spring center width. Find subtract this measurement from the C to C measurement and divide by 2. This will let you know how far in the center of the mount should be.

this is how I did it. You dont have to measure off anything special, but the c's work the best. When you have your final number (after dividing by 2) that should tell you how far to locate the center of your spring perch from the c (or whatever you take your overall axle measurement from). Problem is you can really move your perch that is cast into the pumpkin....shouldnt be too far off though. This works best on rear axles .

any more pic's, specs, of that maroon CJ,

that thing is Awesome....:smokin:

this is how I did it. You dont have to measure off anything special, but the c's work the best. When you have your final number (after dividing by 2) that should tell you how far to locate the center of your spring perch from the c (or whatever you take your overall axle measurement from). Problem is you can really move your perch that is cast into the pumpkin....shouldnt be too far off though. This works best on rear axles .

I only had to move the centering pin hole that was cast in by 7/16". I brazed the old hole shut and re-drilled. However I got the '78-'79 Ford front 60. Most other axles will require some outboarding.

Double post...damn computer

I also vote full hydro, and I am FOR the OX locker.

But I'm confused as to your reasoning behind the 10.34:1 ratio. 2.72 is basically 3:1... I dunno, it just seems like more useful gearing with the other one. Maybe it's just me?? I guess 10:1 will help in recovery of your friend's rigs, eh?

Why not just go with a 3spd?

I also vote full hydro, and I am FOR the OX locker.

But I'm confused as to your reasoning behind the 10.34:1 ratio. 2.72 is basically 3:1... I dunno, it just seems like more useful gearing with the other one. Maybe it's just me?? I guess 10:1 will help in recovery of your friend's rigs, eh?

Why not just go with a 3spd?

The way I look at it the other 4spd gives you 2:1, 2.72:1 and 5.8:1...where am I going to see any difference between 2 and 2.72??? Plus, that way I will completely miss the 100:1--150:1 range which I feel is a great rock crawling ratio. With 2.72:1 and 3.8:1 I get 82:1 and 115:1 crawl ratios which I feel will be perfect. Besides, who says you HAVE to stay in first gear? If i need a lower gear than 3.8:1 can give me I can shift into low low low and use second or third gear if first is too low. Plus I really wanted a transfer case that would bolt right up to my NV4500 and not have to change the 29 spline output shaft. I dunno it would probably more economical to go with a cheaper setup but I figure this is the last time I ever want to change the trans/transfer case in my YJ. I only ever plan on redoing the engine (4.5L stroker in the future) and possibly 4-link it later on down the line.

I got the Atlas ordered up and waiting for its arrival. The Jeep project is on hold for a little bit until I get my truck on the road (its in need of some tlc). I scoured the junk yard for a shifter for the NV4500 this past weekend and couldn't find one so I guess its something I'm going to have to make.

I have to make a shifter for my NV4500....otherwise I'll be shifting under the dash. Your also going to have to either cut the trans tunnel or put a body lift on. The 4500 is tall.
http://lh3.google.com/JustinELarsen/RoUicE0d_xI/AAAAAAAAACY/g1GvSZrf7zE/DSCF3082-600.jpg?imgmax=576

As you can see the engine is as far back as it will go
http://lh3.google.com/JustinELarsen/RoHCBE0d_vI/AAAAAAAAACE/xhdTIjO8OIs/DSCF3097-600.jpg?imgmax=576

The t-case is up against the floorboards
http://lh4.google.com/JustinELarsen/RoHCBU0d_wI/AAAAAAAAACM/HKf9POZX9vs/DSCF3092-600.jpg?imgmax=576

http://lh3.google.com/JustinELarsen/RoUicE0d_yI/AAAAAAAAACg/AJDGGfacBKA/DSCF3080-600.jpg?imgmax=576

P.S. OX lockers front and rear

I planned on doing some trans tunnel mods. I am going to be running a 1" body lift but I want to run a stock drop trans skid. I was wondering how it was all going to line up with that shifter and I figured I'd be making a shifter stick for it. That's a good lookin project man post some pics of the shifter when you get it done.

Any progress on this build?

Rear axle is going in next weekend...I just have to pick up my steel and start reinforcing the rear of the frame. I'll post pics as soon as I get some more work done.

Pics are all fixed up now...Photobucket can suck my sweaty nutsack

Got the rear crossmember cut off along with ALL the factory mounts for everything. All I have to do is pick up the metal and the rear axle goes in this weekend. Pics will follow after the axle is installed.

fyi, thats an 80's model dana 60 front, it has 9/16 studs and the chunk is further toward the driver side.

fyi, thats an 80's model dana 60 front, it has 9/16 studs and the chunk is further toward the driver side.

Damn, I wonder who erased the 80's BOM and engraved 610023-2 on it :flipoff2:

http://www2.dana.com/

Damn, I wonder who erased the 80's BOM and engraved 610023-2 on it :flipoff2:

http://www2.dana.com/


:eek:

OK a little update. The frame rails in the rear were rusted too bad to sleeve so I picked up a sheet of 11 gauge steel and boxed the frame instead. I ended up stretching the frame by 4" and then bolted and welded on a set of currie slickrock CJ rear shackle hangers to the frame with just enough room to mount the c-channel as a crossmember. I still have to finish up my roll of film so I can get the progress pics posted. --More to come! :smokin:

sorry...I glanced at this pic too quick and thought the other spring pad on there was part of the chunk. youre right :flipoff2:

http://aycu05.webshots.com/image/22924/2004935190263400318_rs.jpg (http://allyoucanupload.webshots.com/v/2004935190263400318)

Finally got some pics developed (but the CD didn't work...sorry for the shitty scanned images)

Rear frame was pretty well rotted out:
http://i27.tinypic.com/11mdloj.jpg

I decided to box over the frame (and stretch the frame rail 4") for a good, solid repair.

http://i28.tinypic.com/eaiq6o.jpg
http://i31.tinypic.com/2m2jcly.jpg
http://i31.tinypic.com/2cei0zk.jpg

Both rear frame rails are boxed over and the new rear crossmember is welded on, along with the rear shackle hangers. I'm waiting on the pics of the rear crossmember.

awesome build man. its definitely a good thing you're taking your time to do things right. the only question i have is.....whats with all the funky drivetrain paint? :grinpimp:

awesome build man. its definitely a good thing you're taking your time to do things right. the only question i have is.....whats with all the funky drivetrain paint? :grinpimp:

Thanks man...its taking a lot longer than I wanted it to, but I know it'll be done right.

Dunno bout the paint, not my build. But I like it--its different

NICE

This is pretty much the build I am going for. If you dont mind me asking, how much $ do you have in it so far?

NICE

This is pretty much the build I am going for. If you dont mind me asking, how much $ do you have in it so far?

To this point I'm only about $4k deep. This includes the axles, springs (and all the brackets and perches, etc), srs, NV4500 (and bellhousing, new input shaft/bearing retainer), new trans skid, metal and some other parts I got a deal on that I couldn't pass up. I'm hoping to get it done for around $12k but I think I'm going to blow this figure out of the water after the Atlas/lockers/rims and tires.

Those out there running the ATLAS 4 speeds...What are you running cable shift or mech. shift? Do you like it, and why?

Running atlas 4 behind 700r4, like gearing range, mechanical shift linkage on case, cable shift linkage on reduction, I like it but what I find useless is the fact that I can't do front digs using just the reduction box portion. I like the wheel speed on 2.72-1 but can't do front digs:mad3:. 10 to 1 too low to be useful IMO. Consider three speed stak.4.33:1, 2.43:1, and 1:1 Just me but with auto my 3.8 to 1 is too slow, but I do enjoy breaking stuff!

Running atlas 4 behind 700r4, like gearing range, mechanical shift linkage on case, cable shift linkage on reduction, I like it but what I find useless is the fact that I can't do front digs using just the reduction box portion. I like the wheel speed on 2.72-1 but can't do front digs:mad3:. 10 to 1 too low to be useful IMO. Consider three speed stak.4.33:1, 2.43:1, and 1:1 Just me but with auto my 3.8 to 1 is too slow, but I do enjoy breaking stuff!

Why can't you just shift the rear axle into neutral and front burn with the planetary engaged and the front engaged?

With the transfer case in high you can't just engage the front end, remember the planetary isn't changing anything inside the case. I hope i'm wrong but i'm not :flipoff2:

With the transfer case in high you can't just engage the front end, remember the planetary isn't changing anything inside the case. I hope i'm wrong but i'm not :flipoff2:

I talked to advance adapters today and they said you can leave the front axle in high, the rear in neutral and engage the planetary setup and front burn all you want--But if you're not wrong then I guess they are :flipoff2:

Who did you talk too, did you ask them correctly I have the 10 to 1 low you can not do a front dig with the tcase in high. I called too. Well I can't say it can't be done, the gates in the case can be modified but I don't want to trash this thing... I was hoping from your comments I could just kick the hell out of the shifter and it work.. ooooooh well

Who did you talk too, did you ask them correctly I have the 10 to 1 low you can not do a front dig with the tcase in high. I called too. Well I can't say it can't be done, the gates in the case can be modified but I don't want to trash this thing... I was hoping from your comments I could just kick the hell out of the shifter and it work.. ooooooh well

Ok, debate has been solved. I talked to AA again (got a different rep). The question I asked BOTH people I talked to was "With the Atlas438 (the part number for the 4spd with 10.34:1 overall) can you do a front burn/front dig in ALL 4 gears?" At first he said yes, but then corrected himself and said you CAN NOT do a front burn in 2.72:1 low range, only in 3.8 and 10.34. So, you were correct. Good job :smokin:

Finally got the Atlas ordered two weeks ago. AA said it'd be roughly 8-10 weeks so it's lookin like end of Nov before I get it. In the meantime I'm going to setup the rear axle (I wanted to wait till the driveline was in to set the pinion angle, but I'm going to have to guess) get the body back on, weld the cage in, and build the axles. Pics to follow.

Finally got the Atlas ordered two weeks ago. AA said it'd be roughly 8-10 weeks so it's lookin like end of Nov before I get it. In the meantime I'm going to setup the rear axle (I wanted to wait till the driveline was in to set the pinion angle, but I'm going to have to guess) get the body back on, weld the cage in, and build the axles. Pics to follow.

You'll be able to go muddin in no time!! :flipoff2:

You'll be able to go muddin in no time!! :flipoff2:

That's right...muddin right over your turd XJ! :smokin:

any updates?

This is an awesome YJ

If you are worried about being able to make tight turns on the trail, just get a line lock in the rear and front dig it around turns.

It's been a long time since I've updated this thread and I apologize for those of you that were following this build.

I don't have any new pics yet because I've been working on gathering parts and getting the axles built (and I'm still waiting on backorder for my transfer case).

Parts I've picked up:
Front axle--Superior shafts (35 spline inner/outer), OX locker, SOLID axle knuckles/outer kits, Warn 35 spline premium hubs, Dana Spicer 5.38:1 R/P

Rear axle--Moser 35 spline spool/shafts, BTF disc brackets, Superior 5.38:1 R/P

Finally got the input shaft, bearing retainer, and bellhousing adapter for the NV4500 so it's ready to go in

As soon as the t-case makes it here I'll be putting the drivetrain back in, setting the rear pinion angle, tie-ing the frame together in a few places and getting the body back on so I can do the body work and get it ready for paint. Pics to follow as soon as I get some more work done

After months of collecting parts and not getting much of anything done, I finally did something I could take a picture of. I ditched the 4.0L (my buddy needed one pretty bad, so I sold him mine) and picked up a 5.9L Magnum from a 1999 Dakota R/T. After the usual junkyard engine refresher course here is what it looks like. (click on pic to enlarge)
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/75/75/8/36/96/2496836960101895037HnlSfs_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2496836960101895037HnlSfs)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/62/762/2/43/82/2834243820101895037PiDhqL_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2834243820101895037PiDhqL)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/62/762/0/56/5/2687056050101895037divfSt_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2687056050101895037divfSt)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/75/75/6/94/75/2548694750101895037TPRpxi_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2548694750101895037TPRpxi)

This weekend I finished up the engine (minus alternator and PS pump), put the front axle in for the final time (finished the front all the way out to the hubs/brakes) and welded up the rear springs. The drivers side leaf spring needs a little cutting/rewelding so I'll finish this up next Sunday. I've got a few pics of the progress that I'll have posted up tomorrow.

Front axle is in, for good. Rear axle is mocked up (nothing welded yet). After I get the outers on the rear axle the next step will be to sit the body tub on and get the engine/trans/t-case in so I can weld up the rear axle.

click on the image to enlarge

http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/68/468/1/24/98/2946124980101895037Wrlcae_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2946124980101895037Wrlcae)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/68/468/2/81/95/2376281950101895037lZKHZl_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2376281950101895037lZKHZl)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/55/855/3/30/50/2830330500101895037NCyRwD_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2830330500101895037NCyRwD)

In the first picture are you at the bottom of chicken run and killer in wellsville?
Sweet build by the way.

In the first picture are you at the bottom of chicken run and killer in wellsville?
Sweet build by the way.

yeah we were waiting to meet up with another group and decided to take some poser pics. good eye!
Hopefully Wellsville will still be wheel-able by the time this thing is done. :mad3:

I ran into an issue with the rear axle this weekend. :mad3: It's a full floating D60 rear from a 1979 F350 with the shorter spindles. I put the hubs on and proceeded to install the Stage 8 X-Lock spindle lock nuts and they are about 1/8" too long. The lock nut sticks out past the spindle by about 1/16" and don't allow the axle shaft to butt up to the hub completely. I need about an extra 1/8" of space.

I have plenty of spline on the shafts to engage with the spool so I'm thinking about a 1/8" spacer between the hub and flange on the axle shaft. I know that this will greatly increase the chances of the axle flange bolts loosening up but lock washers and lock-tite should keep them nice and tight.

The other choice I have is to grind down the lock nut itself but I think the extra heat on the nut will alter the integrity of the metal.

Or should I just ditch the Stage 8 idea and stick with the factory style spindle nuts??? (I cannot return the Stage 8 X-Locks because I already modified the collar because the channel on the spindle was too small so I filed down the tab on the collar to fit)

Let me know what you think...Any thoughts on this situation would be greatly appreciated.

I decided to go with the 1/8" spacers. I eliminated the thrust washer (per Stage 8 it's not needed in this instance) and added the spacer and the rear axle is good to go.

I stripped the old tub this weekend and ran into a few areas that need addressed. My steering column froze up sometime in the past two and half years of sitting outside. It took half an hour, half a can of WD-40, and some elbow grease to get the wheel to turn again. It's very stiff and squealing when you turn the wheel. If this doesn't get better with more penetrating oil, does anyone have a non-tilt YJ steering column in decent shape???

The power booster and MC were full of water so I'm going to be switching to a different setup. Lots of searching on here ahead of me to find the best setup.

Spent all day Sunday rebuilding body mounts. 8 of 11 mounts need redone on the frame. I got six done sunday, the last two (the ones that used to be on the rear crossmember) I have to add after the body is set down so I know the correct location.

click on images to enlarge

BEFORE:
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/75/175/0/88/49/2956088490101895037TtwEoT_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2956088490101895037TtwEoT)

AFTER:
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/68/468/1/39/89/2794139890101895037BHKCrW_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2794139890101895037BHKCrW)

shitty Blackberry pic of the 5.9 in the YJ

click on image to enlarge

http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/55/855/9/52/24/2180952240101895037AePDwU_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2180952240101895037AePDwU)

Got the engine mounts welded up and the trans in over the weekend. The trans fits perfectly where I wanted it, but my TDK trans skid needs modified to work with the NV4500.

click on pics to enlarge

Engine in its final resting position:
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/75/175/6/91/52/2052691520101895037kCEnoU_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2052691520101895037kCEnoU)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/75/175/3/98/22/2025398220101895037IcTDEj_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2025398220101895037IcTDEj)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/69/769/3/99/64/2654399640101895037cNraRP_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2654399640101895037cNraRP)

Transmission from inside:
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/75/175/8/71/13/2357871130101895037wPescL_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2357871130101895037wPescL)


Transmission from underneath:
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/68/468/0/48/23/2694048230101895037FdNSOo_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2694048230101895037FdNSOo)

Spent a few hours on Sunday modifying my TDK trans crossmember to work with the NV4500 and Advance Adapters trans mount. I had to add some width to the mounting surface. I may have went overkill with the heavy flat bar but I had it laying around and didn't want a weak spot. Now I'm finally ready to put the Atlas 4 speed up.

click on pics to enlarge
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/75/175/0/89/37/2545089370101895037bEIWkT_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2545089370101895037bEIWkT)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/68/468/6/11/3/2995611030101895037HQAmAl_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2995611030101895037HQAmAl)

a few pics of the atlas

(click on pics to enlarge)

Ouf of the Jeep:
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/68/468/0/61/2/2490061020101895037ZrYDyg_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2490061020101895037ZrYDyg)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/96/196/0/22/80/2427022800101895037bUFFpq_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2427022800101895037bUFFpq)

I had to dent the tube on the skid for clearance
Installed:
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/96/196/9/23/34/2411923340101895037ippvlW_th.jpg (http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/2411923340101895037ippvlW)

Roll cage comes next

Some updated pics of the progress

(click on pics to enlarge)

Poison Spyder Customs full cage kit:
http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/64/764/9/86/98/2197986980101895037grVVMx_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2197986980101895037grVVMx)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/75/75/6/77/99/2452677990101895037vbpGQh_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2452677990101895037vbpGQh)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/64/764/4/56/69/2955456690101895037JTWNRB_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2955456690101895037JTWNRB)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/71/71/3/49/5/2304349050101895037darvLy_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2304349050101895037darvLy)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/96/196/1/30/53/2963130530101895037GTyDze_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2963130530101895037GTyDze)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/69/769/9/21/20/2724921200101895037lglKQK_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2724921200101895037lglKQK)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/96/196/2/51/3/2948251030101895037rCXEKL_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2948251030101895037rCXEKL)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/71/71/2/75/29/2270275290101895037sBMVtt_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2270275290101895037sBMVtt)

click on pics to enlarge

Gen-Right high clearance tube fenders with 3" flare, Gen-Right rocker guards, Gen-Right corner guards
I had to modify the rockers a bit to fit with the high clearance fenders. I cut some off the back end and kept the curve. The front I had to cut out to clear the fender flare

http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/71/71/2/70/77/2743270770101895037iewtzh_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2743270770101895037iewtzh)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/75/75/7/51/22/2046751220101895037wcDcGX_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2046751220101895037wcDcGX)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/64/764/7/4/84/2023704840101895037ZCHKWC_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2023704840101895037ZCHKWC)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/64/764/9/73/76/2393973760101895037HbQifR_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2393973760101895037HbQifR)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/96/196/1/75/32/2230175320101895037gnwmWP_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2230175320101895037gnwmWP)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/75/75/3/2/89/2000302890101895037upBrOg_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2000302890101895037upBrOg)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/69/769/9/84/79/2281984790101895037ttRNkz_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2281984790101895037ttRNkz)

Gen-Right shorty front bumper with weld on grille hoop and stinger kit

http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/69/769/5/27/23/2558527230101895037dXLWXL_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2558527230101895037dXLWXL)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/71/71/1/65/45/2061165450101895037xIEDan_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2061165450101895037xIEDan)http://thumb17.webshots.net/t/69/769/1/41/71/2386141710101895037VNClwE_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2386141710101895037VNClwE)



all my pics available here
http://rides.webshots.com/album/576203734BjrUkR