Looks like all of the drama lama's are working on their sheit.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=562295

I guess Gary isn't posting a buildup anymore.
What about the F-Nissan??

Easy now, this post was just in fun guys.

I just picked up chassis #74 last friday so I'm just throwing wrenches and making sparks.

I just picked up chassis #74 last friday so I'm just throwing wrenches and making sparks.

Well is it done yet?:D

ya, so who is building right now?

nope not done yet, been nice since moving the shop closer to work so it's not out of the way on the way home, so I work for about 2-3 hours each night. I worked on it for 5 yesterday. the rear is pretty much dialed in. I pulled the buggy portion back off so I could finish the stripping of the stock stuff off of the front so I can start laying out the new set up.
got the motor stripped and painted yesterday along with all the mounts made for the tranny and motor.

ya, so who is building right now?

I'm working and building. Too bad I'm working more than I'm building. :(
I'll have it running around the block before May is over and on the trail by July?

I finally got the chassis home from MN and have the frame about ready. I have a long list of parts I need to order but have been out of work for about a month now so it's been slow going.....

Well, I got new tires! I went with a set of 37x14x15 bias ply IROKs. The jury is still out right now. I got them all mounted up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs.jpg
They look good on the rig....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs_2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs_4.jpg
But for 37's they look short. I was thinking they just look short because of the 14" width. This has one of my old 37" MT/r's setting next to it. Now granted the IROK is at 3psi and the MT/r is unmounted and has no weight on it, the differance is pretty noticable.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs_1.jpg
This is what the tape says.... What do most 37's measure at 3psi?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs_3.jpg

How wide are the rims?

Well, I got new tires! I went with a set of 37x14x15 bias ply IROKs. The jury is still out right now. I got them all mounted up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs.jpg
They look good on the rig....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs_2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs_4.jpg
But for 37's they look short. I was thinking they just look short because of the 14" width. This has one of my old 37" MT/r's setting next to it. Now granted the IROK is at 3psi and the MT/r is unmounted and has no weight on it, the differance is pretty noticable.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs_1.jpg
This is what the tape says.... What do most 37's measure at 3psi?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs_3.jpg

how high is the bottom of your frame from the ground and the bar that your arm rests on

ya, so who is building right now?
I'm trying to rebuild #36, just dont have a red star so no pics on here

http://www.toyotatrailriders.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2280
My half assed build on my clubs forum

x2 on how wide are the rims?

We'll be starting on another Ftoy soon. Don't have the chassis # yet. It will be on an 83 swb frame that i've had for a while and be intended as a comp rig so as light and minimal as possible. Diamonds on both ends. Stazworks double locks. Probably use my r151. bla bla bla.:grinpimp:

Speaking of axles:mad3: :rolleyes: We've got the front axle out of #48 .......again. I think my issues with the front E-locker not engaging at times are related to my poor machine work on the housing. We'll take it out out to my brothers shop next week, reweld the sealing surface and use the vertical mill to resurface the entire sealing surface for the 3rd. I'll take pics. I'll say again that we will not do this again. Next time it will be a Diamond axle housing from the start. I talked to Brian about one for this and found out there are issues with using a Diamond axle with leaf springs and trying to stay stock width. The axle needs to be 4" wider for the spring pads to sit at stock width and they normally just make the short side 4" longer and move the center section over 2". I don't want my axle 4" wider and after measuring I just don't think that's going to work out well for this rig. I could get one narrower and just plow into the side of the center section for my spring mount but I don't really want to do that either. Besides, I'd have to get different wheels:( So i'll give this housing that we've put so much time into already 1 more try.:D

How wide are the rims?

8" wheels with DIY beadlocks, so probably about 9" or so.

how high is the bottom of your frame from the ground and the bar that your arm rests on

22-1/5" to the bottom of the frame, and 48-1/2" to the top of the door bar.

Been working on the ftoy #003 here and there.

from this....
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c333/jeremyfarrell/111206pics023-1.jpg

To this...
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c333/jeremyfarrell/blackftoy025.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c333/jeremyfarrell/blackftoy024.jpg

[QUOTE=azyota;6740319]Well, I got new tires! I went with a set of 37x14x15 bias ply IROKs. The jury is still out right now. I got them all mounted up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs.jpg
They look good on the rig....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs_2.jpg
[IMG]

I've been looking for some IROKs. Where did you get them and what kind of deal did they make you??

We've been busy. Now, since we missed the Jambo with the Ftoy, we're just going to have it running later. But hey, wheeling old skool in a SAS'd 87 turbo was fun. Especially since it takes 2600lb 2.7 powered buggies cruising across the lakebed! Im thinking of stealing Shane's engine for the Ftoy inbetween comps!

x2 on how wide are the rims?

We'll be starting on another Ftoy soon. Don't have the chassis # yet. It will be on an 83 swb frame that i've had for a while and be intended as a comp rig so as light and minimal as possible. Diamonds on both ends. Stazworks double locks. Probably use my r151. bla bla bla.:grinpimp:

Speaking of axles:mad3: :rolleyes: We've got the front axle out of #48 .......again. I think my issues with the front E-locker not engaging at times are related to my poor machine work on the housing. We'll take it out out to my brothers shop next week, reweld the sealing surface and use the vertical mill to resurface the entire sealing surface for the 3rd. I'll take pics. I'll say again that we will not do this again. Next time it will be a Diamond axle housing from the start. I talked to Brian about one for this and found out there are issues with using a Diamond axle with leaf springs and trying to stay stock width. The axle needs to be 4" wider for the spring pads to sit at stock width and they normally just make the short side 4" longer and move the center section over 2". I don't want my axle 4" wider and after measuring I just don't think that's going to work out well for this rig. I could get one narrower and just plow into the side of the center section for my spring mount but I don't really want to do that either. Besides, I'd have to get different wheels:( So i'll give this housing that we've put so much time into already 1 more try.:D

My hi pinion elocker went funny at the jambo, it stop enaging but still made all the noise of actuating. The shitty guard everyone sells bent and stretched the studs up making the motor teeth miss the gear rack for the shift fork.

Took me two try's to figure out what was happening because when I bolted it al lback up the guard was bent and didn't let the motor sit quite flat on the thirdmember, making it enough out of alingment to not work. I then rebent the rock guard and added a washer behind it and buttoned it all up. Works good for now. That shitty rock guard is getting scrapped.

[QUOTE=azyota;6740319]Well, I got new tires! I went with a set of 37x14x15 bias ply IROKs. The jury is still out right now. I got them all mounted up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs.jpg
They look good on the rig....
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v16/arizonaxj/F-Toy/IROKs_2.jpg
[IMG]

I've been looking for some IROKs. Where did you get them and what kind of deal did they make you??

I found them on the National Tire site for $219 a piece. Anyone find them for less than that? :roxy:

[QUOTE=azyota;6740319]Well, I got new tires! I went with a set of 37x14x15 bias ply IROKs. The jury is still out right now. I got them all mounted up.
azyota, Im glad you got those tires now I know that I can smoke you if your in goldendale!:p FTOY#20/ 4TH EVERY TIME

[QUOTE=azyota;6740319]Im glad you got those tires now I know that I can smoke you if your in goldendale!:p

Your gonna have to bring it at Donner:flipoff2: Unfortunatly I can't make Goldendale. It's mostly just a time off work thing. I had to sacrifice one of the event's, I couldn't go to both. So, Goldendale is farther.

A for the tires, they didn't hook up at all on the first trip. I even got denied on one obstacle that I could make on the MT/r's. But now after a couple trips they seem to be breaking in and hooking up a lot better. If nothing else, they are have way tougher sidewalls than the MT/r's.

[QUOTE=80proof;6767140]

Your gonna have to bring it at Donner:flipoff2: Unfortunatly I can't make Goldendale. It's mostly just a time off work thing. I had to sacrifice one of the event's, I couldn't go to both. So, Goldendale is farther.

A for the tires, they didn't hook up at all on the first trip. I even got denied on one obstacle that I could make on the MT/r's. But now after a couple trips they seem to be breaking in and hooking up a lot better. If nothing else, they are have way tougher sidewalls than the MT/r's.

Add water to the fronts we did with ours for one comp and they worked great

Since you mentioned it. How have you guys been adding the water and how much? Just fronts or front and rear?

My hi pinion elocker went funny at the jambo, it stop enaging but still made all the noise of actuating. The shitty guard everyone sells bent and stretched the studs up making the motor teeth miss the gear rack for the shift fork.

Took me two try's to figure out what was happening because when I bolted it al lback up the guard was bent and didn't let the motor sit quite flat on the thirdmember, making it enough out of alingment to not work. I then rebent the rock guard and added a washer behind it and buttoned it all up. Works good for now. That shitty rock guard is getting scrapped.

After resurfacing the 3rd member mounting flange on the housing the front locker works great. Still takes a revolution or so of the tires to engage or disengage at times but never failed.

Since you mentioned it. How have you guys been adding the water and how much? Just fronts or front and rear?

I took a regular tire chuck and hose clampped it to the cut off end of a garden hose. It worked great.

Jack the rig up so that there is no weight on the tire, remove the valve core and empty all of the air, Fill it and then rotate the tire until the valve core is at 6:00. When the water quits pouring out and you start getting air, put the core back in and your done.

Front tires only.

The reply above is just a suggestion. You can run as much water as you want. You just have to weigh added traction vs. the potential for breakage. The more weight, the harder it is on Ring/Pinion, knuckles, birfs, axles.

The reply above is just a suggestion. You can run as much water as you want. You just have to weigh added traction vs. the potential for breakage. The more weight, the harder it is on Ring/Pinion, knuckles, birfs, axles.

We've done it with 300# dave , no core, and he squashes the tire. Shove the hose on the valve, and dave slowly gets off the tire, and it sucks the water in.

We've done it with 300# dave , no core, and he squashes the tire. Shove the hose on the valve, and dave slowly gets off the tire, and it sucks the water in.


:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

You can buy an adapter for putting water in tires at napa for about $10.00

[QUOTE=azyota;6794644][QUOTE=80proof;6767140]

Your gonna have to bring it at Donner:flipoff2: Unfortunatly I can't make Goldendale. It's mostly just a time off work thing. I had to sacrifice one of the event's, I couldn't go to both. So, Goldendale is farther.

/QUOTE]

Bummer, we'll miss you in Goldendale. Some of us might do a Rubicon run after Donner, hope you can make it!

That's more or less what I had planned. What's the logic behind fronts only? At the risk of over-showing my obvious ignorance on the matter what is the primary advantage of the water in the tires? I'm assuming that it aids in keeping that tire planted so why would you not want it in the rear? Has anyone noticed the water affecting their ability to get heat in the tires?

That's more or less what I had planned. What's the logic behind fronts only? At the risk of over-showing my obvious ignorance on the matter what is the primary advantage of the water in the tires? I'm assuming that it aids in keeping that tire planted so why would you not want it in the rear? Has anyone noticed the water affecting their ability to get heat in the tires?


My understanding is that the water in the rear will hurt you, because most of the comp hard lines are going UP hill. The extra weight in the rear will make it harder ,because your pulling all that extra weight uphill.

Take a tire off the rim and put some water in it. If you roll it on the ground slowly the water stays on the bottom and does not appear to effect the rolling resistence of the tire. When the tire begins to pick up speed the water is dispersed around the tire and seems to become part of the rotating mass but at this point it would seem that the load of the additional weight wouldn't be harmful to the drivetrain components because it became part of the rotating mass gradually. Anybody actually messed around much with adding gradual amounts of water and kept track of the difference in performance or added water to the rear tires to confirm that doesn't work? I'm gonna do this but just wondering if someone could save me some time. I did search but couldn't find a decent "water in tires" thread.

Put this question up in the competitors forum or PM Dustin Webster (Red Bull) and you will get a good answer.