I'm fed up with my smokin', tickin' 2F, so I'm gonna replace it with a TBI 350... That's the easy part. The hard part: I'm still waffling about what tranny I put behind it...

I'm considering a TH700 or TH350/400 for the ease and instant crawl ratio, but the damn AA adapters cost nearly $800!! :mad3:

Another option would be adapt the automatic to the front half of a NP203, and THEN adapt it to my stock split case for super crawl ratio... Of course this would only be useful if I had 38s, and is a hell of a lot more complicated.

The last option would be to go with a SM465 and adapt that to my tcase. Only issue is that all the inexpensive adapters are for the 3spd case, not the 4spd one! Arrgh!

I'm going crazy... Anyone who has done this, could you help me out with a little advise?

Thanks!

Dave,

With a wagon, you have enough rear dirveshaft length to go with a TBI and stock transfer case (whatever model you find with the engine) and still run your offset rear diff.

With the length you are dealing with the lateral angle will not be too much to deal with.

Nolen,

I had always wondered about that... If I could stay with a "standard" tcase, that'd save a lot of hassle... Just have to make sure the driveshafts will bolt up to the output flanges.

Anyone you know running something like this? I'd love to see some pics and a write-up! :D

First off, you will be FINE with the auto and a standard transfer 2.0 reduction with what you want to do with your Cruiser.

I think GM used a chain driven transfer case with the TBI that had a 2.6:1 reduction...you would be FINE!

As for the flanges, worst case you can have Jesse re do your flanges on your existing driveshafts......

You will need driveshaft adjustments anyway.

FYI, the old Cuisers that had centered rear axles still had offset transfer cases....from the FACTORY!

It really depends what you want to do with your cruiser. I wanted to build a cruiser that could do a wide range of things, like rock crawling. A few of things to think about though. <ul>
<li>If you go with 700R4, get the thing beefed up. They have some weak points.
<li> You will have to buy adapters to go from the auto to your TLC xfer case. For about $300 to $400 more you can buy the NP203 and adapters.
<li>A conversion of this type is time consuming if you are doing it yourself. Expensive if you are having it done for you.
</ul>
<br>
Go to my site if you want to see the way I have mine set up. <br><br>
http://www.lslc.org/austinbios/blumenthal/Dulciena.html
<br><br>
Let me know if I can be of any help.<br><br>

Later,

I agree with Nolen, run the whole chevy drivetrain. Running offset won't hurt a thing and you should be able to get a good deal. Not to mention you can sell a split case for a good amount of dough $400+.

Yeah! due to the popularity of the h55f swap split cases are going for big bucks. I looked around and looked around every place I could think of. The best I could do is $400. It sure is yucky on the outside. Darn East Coast salt. We westerners are spoiled. The outside of my case that I wrecked is all shiney and clean. This new case is rough and dingy. So bad that I decided to etch it and paint it.

I run a Ranger Underdrive behind my 350TBI in my 60 and behind that a h55f and then my split case. Someday, I'll ditch the Ranger and put in a NP203 between the h55f and the split case.

If you want to go cheap, the cheapest way is a Downey bellhousing with your stock 4spd or 5spd if you have one. I know of one of these bellhousings used in Idaho if you would decide to go that route.

Personally, if I was going to do my conversion over, I'd go 700r4 to a NP203 to a split transfer case. If you get a NP203 off a turbo 400 or turbo 350 it can be adapted to the 700r4 for like $150. So you'd be $150 for that adapter, maybe $75 for the 203, about $500 for the adapter to the split case. That might be the way to go. You'd be done with gears for life. You'd never have to screw with ring and pinion changes or anything. Also, Jerry Nichols the guy who developed the NP203 adapter says that if you build up a 700r4 with Corvette servos etc... You will start breaking stuff. He said you want it to shift weakly because of all the torque with the gear reduction. A stock 700r4 with the updates would be OK.

Just so you know, take what every you plan on spending on doing the conversion and at least figure another 50%. Exhaust, hoses, electrical connectors etc... will eat you up.

lcsixty,

Thanks for the tip on the 700R4 beef'n. I just keep mine stock and cooool.:beer:

Later,

Jeff,

Nice truck! what kind of springs did you use for your SO. Thanks.

/td

Thanks. They are the originals...

Later,

I would go w/ a 5.7 vortec, 4l60e & stock tcase. this setup can usually be found for relatively cheap ($1500~$3000) & drop it in & go, no messing w/ adapters etc... youd still need to figure out shifters etc.. & that is going to add up $$$$.

im gonna agree with lcsixty:
don't make your 700 shift harder. this only causes unnecessary wear and use of the u-joints, all the coupling splines,...
on top of that you can wear out or brake the trans case itself.
and besides, why would anybody want a shift kit in a 4wd unless they're mud bogging?

My question about Vortec drivetrain... After looking at my 99 K1500 suburban, I notice that the front output shaft of the tcase (I think it is a NP231) is VERY long... Is this a strength issue? I'm not sure I'd like that "suspended" out that far. In the in the IFS world there is no movement of the front driveshaft, so its not an issue...

Any concerns there? (My reason for staying away from Vortec is price and its a hell of a lot more complicated to hook up)

Thanks for all the info!!

Dave,

If you are TBI only, then get a T350 or T400 and slap a D300 behind it.

That is simple and strong and with 33-35" tires it will be more than enough for the crawl you will need.