Well, after finding regular clear household silicon around the third member, i begin tearing the axle down tonight. I get the first set of bolts out, no problem. Now the locking clutch assembly part of the hubs is safely on the shelf. Time for the second set, the nuts with the cone washers. They break loose fine, but as i'm trying to remove them, there seems to be a lot of resistance. What do you know, silicone around the nut, lock washer AND cone washer. After another old style, i realize that the whole method of beating it with a bfh is now obsolete for this axle. I do believe, correct me if i'm wrong, that the silicone will cancel out 75% or more of the all-to-effective-vibrations caused by the "if all else fails" bfh. They're soaking in wd-40, but i dont think will do much. Anyone had a PO that was this stupid?
All suggestions accepted, even :flipoff2:
Thanks

I would try to melt it out with one of those small torches. Or maybe a bit safer would be to try and let "Goop Off" sit inside for a coupld of hours and see it the silcone starts to break down. Some sort of adhisive remover should do the trick.... Good Luck

Personally I dont think that a torch will melt the silicone (if it really is silicone) - high temp cooking stuff is made with silicone. - well oxy-aceteleyne might.

Id go the slide hammer route -
- put the nuts back on lightly
- put the turn handle cap back on
- attach slide hammer to cap
- slide/bang away

Luckly - my 1898 4Runner has no PO - but as fas as stupid stunts the current owner has done....

yah yah yah - 1989 .... :emb2:
(not just a newbie - cant type)

Originally posted by EWong
Luckly - my 1898 4Runner has no PO - but as fas as stupid stunts the current owner has done....

Damn! That's an old Runner. You say you've owned it since it was new?;)

There is enough blue silicone on my engine from the previous owner to seal up 10 trucks. He even put it on the EGR gasket :( :(.

The method of driving a wedge in the gap of the cone washer may still work fine. This method spreads the washer apart thus forcing it out, no vibrations etc. I use a narrow prick punch that I ground flat, pops them right out every time.

Originally posted by toy283
Damn! That's an old Runner. You say you've owned it since it was new?;)

We all wondered how he racked up so many miles (it's over 300k, isn't it?)... and now we know. :)

As for the silicone, if it's household clear bathroom stuff, I'd try grabbing the cone washers with a pair of pliers and just pulling 'em out. The silicone might have kept the cones from seating right in the first place.

If that doesn't work, next thing I'd try would be tapping on the hub body right next to the cone washers. It may deform the hub body, so you may want to have a spare for this, but if you tap on it right next to the cone, it'll usually knock the cone loose.

Somewhere along the way, I'd try just unscrewing the studs.

Then comes the torch, but be prepared to rebuild the hub itself after doing that... and I'd seriously doubt that the torch will help much.

Sure did Jimbo! The entire hubs where it was mounted on both faces were slathered in it as well as the studs. (I assume this was just "excess" though) I guess some are too cheap to buy the $2 gaskets at Toyota huh? I got a brass drift and that makes the job a lot easier, and the threads don't get boogered up. BTW I did find many many conce washers and nuts for the hubs if you need them as well. I WILL Find those for theknuckles for ya too dammit!

Hell, I use silicone on mine all the time... damn things get pulled apart probably 15 times a year, since I pull the hubs everytime they get submerged in water. 95% of the time everything is fine but better safe than sorry for water mixing with wheel bearings or R&P's. The 20 min 1way trip to the dealer for paper gaskets just isn't worth it and the silicone works fine.

Now I only smear a light layer on the sealing surfaces, and clean off all the old every time, but if some falls off in the hub a little ball of silicone isn't going to hurt anything in there. I've also used household silicone when I don't have auto stuff... whats the diff, silicone is silicone... I think some of the auto stuff can handle higher temp, but in the hubs this isn't an issue.

Originally posted by paniolo
Hell, I use silicone on mine all the time... damn things get pulled apart probably 15 times a year, since I pull the hubs everytime they get submerged in water. 95% of the time everything is fine but better safe than sorry for water mixing with wheel bearings or R&P's. The 20 min 1way trip to the dealer for paper gaskets just isn't worth it and the silicone works fine.

Now I only smear a light layer on the sealing surfaces, and clean off all the old every time, but if some falls off in the hub a little ball of silicone isn't going to hurt anything in there. I've also used household silicone when I don't have auto stuff... whats the diff, silicone is silicone... I think some of the auto stuff can handle higher temp, but in the hubs this isn't an issue.

I hear you brother David! I never put those cheasy paper gaskets in. When you wheel on the muddy rocks much of the time, you just learn that the paper isn't worth it. When not wheeling in the muddy rocks, your usually crusing the wet water sheds or creeks themsevles. So, water is a big part of wheeling for me. The same goes for those dame inner oil seals. I must have changed those 100 time. My spindle bushings are probably worn, but it's still too much trouble. I usually just fill the knuckles with the Mobil 1 synthetic grease and roll with it. By the time it breaks down enough to begin worrying, I've already broken an axles or tore down the front for some other reason :D

You could always tack weld the nuts to the studs, then remove the studs complete and then buy new ones. There about $0.80 at the dealer.

Did they have 4runners in 1898?? That is very old.

:flipoff2:

My P.O. (Of the 82 axle, not the 89 truck) used a ton of blue silicone as well. Bashing with a BFH worked fine. (Look in the Toy FAQ posts. I put a picture in there of where I bang, because the usual 'end-of-stud-with-brass-drift thing wasn't going to cut it with all of the rust) It worked really well once I figured out where to hit...

Well, as it turns out, the silicone actually made it really easy to get the cone washers out. I didnt even have to hit them. Pulled off the nut and grabbed them with a pair of pliers(thanks scott@rockstomper) and off they came. As a matter of fact, i aint never had cone washers come off that easy(granted i've only done them a few times.
Thank you all for your ideas and Bones, i shouldnt need any cone washers now. The lower knuckle cap doesnt have any cone washers as it turns out.

Originally posted by jimbo762
Bones, i shouldnt need any cone washers now. The lower knuckle cap doesnt have any cone washers as it turns out.
:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:




:flipoff2: