I can't figure out how to get the Dana44 I have apart. It is an auto hub out of a Jeep. I got the C clip and gear between the stub axle and hub, but what now?

There should be two big nuts and a washer inside there around the spindle. Go down to napa and buy the special socket thats required to get the nuts off. Once you get these off you should be able to pull the roter right off ( assuming you have already got the caliper off ). Oh by the way this is a stupid :flipoff2: NEWBIE:flipoff2: question and you should be ready for some serious flaming:D



edit: Oops the info above is actualy for a dana 60, on a dana 44 just use a big fawkin hammer:p

you are kiddind right ? if not sell all your four wheel stuf and go buy a honda or a damn book on what you are working on and not ask sutch stupid questions

I thought on the 44 you turned the wheels and stood on it until it went POW! Then you keep driving until the knuckle falls off. :D

Please clarify :flipoff2:

Okay, I am wanting to know if I missed a C Clip or anything. Or if I just need to beat the hell out of the rotor and the ring on the outside of it.

you need a spindle nut socket.

beating on the rotor and "the ring on the outside of it" ?????? i don't get it?

taking a hub off is a bit too elementary for this board. if you can't figure it out, you shouldn't be working on axles...

Okay, is there some webpage or something that can show me how to do this so I can stop being an assclown and learn how to be a decent person for trail fixes?

Here's one that should help

http://128.83.80.200/taco/axle.html

com awn guys, he is a new young guy starting out, I have tried to help over pm cause some of you are a lil to rude.....I have stopped giving newbies the hard time, it just got old....

Thanks guys. That link definately helps explain some of this. I went get a socket for a Dana44....says Ford, but it's all good. I also got a Haynes manual.
Excuse all of the questions, I am sure after I do this, I will be able to repair this axle like I can my bike's SOHC engine's complete top end rebuild in 15 minutes:D

Originally posted by Z71InProgress
. I also got a Haynes manual.

In my limited experience , I have found the haynes type manuals to be a limited guide at the very best .

I'd get a FSM(fact. service manual) . Worth the bucks it cost . Good luck , I'm learning myself and wouldn't even ask these guys here shit . Most are just flamage experts and web wheelers , HAHAHA:usa:

AMEN to SeaBass44

Originally posted by Scotttaco

In my limited experience , I have found the haynes type manuals to be a limited guide at the very best .



no kidding ther junk

I just got a factory manual for my truck

4 inches thick :eek:

By the way, what do you guys think of Detroit Gearless Lockers? I will probably go with a 39.5" or 42" TSL, but I have a stock Vortec 350 BUT I have a 4:1 Lo range which I have no idea how I got. Most of the places around here are mud, but I want to hit some trails when it is all good to go.

Originally posted by Z71InProgress
By the way, what do you guys think of Detroit Gearless Lockers? I will probably go with a 39.5" or 42" TSL, but I have a stock Vortec 350 BUT I have a 4:1 Lo range which I have no idea how I got. Most of the places around here are mud, but I want to hit some trails when it is all good to go.

You really do need to use the search button bro. You will find everything you need to know about detroit soft lockers and any other locker. I would say most love detroits...

I did do a search on it earlier. I found a few mentionings of it, but no real trail reports on what the limits of it are. I guess I can find out the hard way:D

Originally posted by Z71InProgress
I did do a search on it earlier. I found a few mentionings of it, but no real trail reports on what the limits of it are. I guess I can find out the hard way:D

I know, I just made a thread for faq so under search it will come up in a search....from now on that is. I used to bag on guys for being newbies and yell search, not anymore, it gets old and is just rude.....anyone new won't understand anyway, and it will drive away good guys, that won't stick around long enough to see it's mostly funny.;)

I think if you are going to run those big of tires you should probably go to a full detroit, im putting in a lockrite in my front 44 w/ 35 tsls on my scout and im sure thats cutting it close, i do have a detroit in my rear 60 and they're strong. I think that the gearless locker would just get torn up. I like what you are doing though, im guessing you will be using that 44. Even though i don't think the 44 will hold up too long w/ those tires, it shows that you want to see some trial and error and what works and what doesn't, thats how i learned and that you are not just a web wheeler and would rather get out and wheel!!!
Good Luck to whatever you are doing!!!

I would like to know what your plans for your truck are...i am always interested in stuff like this.

Thanks man! As of right now, it has the more typical stuff. I refuse to spend cash on a full IFS suspension lift because it is all so weak and troublesome. I have a 3" body, 2" blocks and the torsions maxed out. I had 35x12.5 SSR's, but now have 33x12.5 SSR's. I did this to tide me over until I put real meat on it. I'm also the type of guy that would much rather fabricate something damn near indestructable than give ORU a call because I heard they were superdy duper with their $18k SFA kit. That's why I came here.
I don't really have the time to learn how to weld good enough to put my life on the line on a trail or road right now, but I do have friends that weld for the big dogs like Exxon. I will probably have coil towers made to fit Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Coil springs for the front and rear running 2 links and the panhard? bar already on the 44. I will probably end up doing the same to the rear axle.
What sucks is, I will probably be riding around 2wd for a couple weeks because I will probably need to give Jesse a call for the amount of lift I plan to run. The truck will probably look goofy with the lift I want for the tires I have, but I want the clearance to really get some flex. By the way, this will be my only rig, so I hope I get this done right:rasta: I guess ramping the truck really doesn't help
Did I mention that I really use this rig, unlike 99% of Z-71's on the road? I have been in mud/water half way up the doors, but my climbing is limited to 20ft mud hills:( I need to get this axle on soon, it is really beating the crap out of this POS Rhino Lining:D :rasta: Hell, I am considering Herculining the 2 tone on this rig black(truck is Maroon/Silver) so I can beat on it some more!
P.S. Thanks for all of you guys help so far. It feels good to separate myself from typical stuff and find people who don't go by the norm.My Pictures (http://briefcase.yahoo.com/the_law_300)

It wouldn't let me look at the pics...If you can i suggest to cut out as much dead weight as you can, the lighter you can get the better you will be with dana 44's and running big tires like that. You should take your bed of and flatbed it with a cage!!! It would be something new and cool!! My scout is my daily rig, but soon to get another scout as this one will not be suitable for the road and i do it all in my parents driveway...much cheaper!!!
But as far as lockers if you are really going to be getting on it, i would go with a full detroit.

Went mess with the axle again for another 10 minutes. I have the spindle on the stub shaft. I am very happy about the condition my parts have been in thus far besides the dust shields and brake rotors. Hell, the bearings and seals are still like new!
I got some ideas while I was at it.
I think I will use the stock shock mounts to mount 2 of the 3 links and figure out how to put the shocks on after. I need to get a picture of the underside of the truck, but there is a cross brace that I would like to use to mount the other end of the 2 links to. I may go pull some tractor heims off a broken one, I figure that would be stronger than Avalanche's heims.
Sorry about the pictures, I guess Yahoo went to hell!
About the weight thing, I want to cut weight, but I need a bed to make some nights a Blockbuster Night:D
I would go with a full Detroit, but I have read(search, not real life) that it will engage rough on the street. I don't really want that at 100mph. Well, I usually drive 90-95 now:(

Originally posted by Z71InProgress

I would go with a full Detroit, but I have read(search, not real life) that it will engage rough on the street. I don't really want that at 100mph. Well, I usually drive 90-95 now:(

the full detroit is way less "jerky" then a lockright, I know 1st hand on that one. Also the lockright uses the stock carrier, so it's only as strong as the carrier, on a toyota the carrier is strong enough so they work well. I hear they don't last to long on full size trucks with v8's, to heavy and higher HP and weaker carrier's hope that helps.

The full Detroit has been lingering in my head. Or would it be best to get the ARB or Ox? I will be going to college also, so maybe I should chunk in the extra? I already have a few compressors also, just don't know how to hook that up to the truck electrically. I'm sure I can figure something out

Originally posted by Z71InProgress
The full Detroit has been lingering in my head. Or would it be best to get the ARB or Ox? I will be going to college also, so maybe I should chunk in the extra? I already have a few compressors also, just don't know how to hook that up to the truck electrically. I'm sure I can figure something out

rear detroit, front ARB or OX, I'm liking the OX cause it doesn't take air, and the front cover just looks so COOL:cool:

Well if you have locking hubs...i say go front detroit, you cant beat the reliability and strength. I don't think you will be going that fast w/ the future plans that you have for your truck. You can still have a Blockbuster night w/ a flatbed!! Do you know how cool that would be on a z71!! It would be the first that i have seen. Cut out your fenderwells and any metal that won't be serving a purpose, thats what i did. Scouts way close to 5,000lbs, so i had to and in the future a bobbed bed!!! I say go full detroits, or at least in the rear. You can only tell when on highways when they open and close and on right turns, but it is really not that bad, i don't mind it at all. Especially since it will be built for wheelin'. I like seabass's thought on the ox, but i would probably put that in the rear if i were you, not the front b/c of locking hubs (you can just go full detroit, you will only know when wheelin')

Most of all...Build it how you want it and see how you like it, then change/upgrade from there to suit your style and have fun wheelin'!!!

Z71...where ya going to college??? Im starting my first semester of college at Auburn next fall, you going to be anywere close??

The full in front will make the turning a little harder off road, turns are wider and the front tends to "push", with the seletable like the OX or ARB u can unlock the front and only engage when needed, there might be an electric locker out now to, I'm not up on it as I don't have the truck I was building the 44 front for anymore...I have a welded rear in mine, same cocept as a spool, it has no noise, but a lil rough on the tires for a daily driver.

I am going to LSU. I have automatic hubs by the way. I am praying that when I shift into Lo Range, the hubs will engage:rasta: Now I need to find some prices on lockers. I have checked 4 Wheel Parts, which have decent prices.

Definately Ox or Arb in the front!!! if you have automatic hubs. 4wheel parts is ok:barf: they can get it here pretty fast but other than that i don't like their customer service, try national tire and wheel they're good!!

dude, swap out those auto hubs. My 44 had full time hubs and I switched to warn premiums for 70 bucks. Everyone I know that has run auto hubs off road has blown them to pieces. I also hate the fact that you never really know they are engaged/disengaged without checking. Auto hubs are :rainbow:

Good news good news. I am having the complete Chevy Manual 44 outers shipped to me. Now I have something to take me back to the parts store after I break:D Now I need to find some factory Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 coils...:rasta:

Correct me if I am wrong, but I need the link angles to be as parallel to the ground as possible. I have been doing a lot of reading from the past threads, but don't really understand if that all directly relates to me. I will probably go with the \ / shock setup for the rear and the / \ setup for the front. Will the axle walk with a 3 link setup? How far should I extend the links? Hopefully, I will score the Dodge Offroad 1500 and Cherokee 4" coils(for the rear). Will these be ideal coils for my application?

Originally posted by Z71InProgress
Correct me if I am wrong, but I need the link angles to be as parallel to the ground as possible. I have been doing a lot of reading from the past threads, but don't really understand if that all directly relates to me. I will probably go with the \ / shock setup for the rear and the / \ setup for the front. Will the axle walk with a 3 link setup? How far should I extend the links? Hopefully, I will score the Dodge Offroad 1500 and Cherokee 4" coils(for the rear). Will these be ideal coils for my application?

I have no idea in that area right now.....:usa:

Originally posted by Z71InProgress
Correct me if I am wrong, but I need the link angles to be as parallel to the ground as possible. I have been doing a lot of reading from the past threads, but don't really understand if that all directly relates to me. I will probably go with the \ / shock setup for the rear and the / \ setup for the front. Will the axle walk with a 3 link setup? How far should I extend the links? Hopefully, I will score the Dodge Offroad 1500 and Cherokee 4" coils(for the rear). Will these be ideal coils for my application?


\ / shock setup, if i am reading this correctly, will not work. you will have no dampening like that. Further you move the mounts toward the center, the less effective dampening ability the shocks have. normally, you go with | | in the front (motor is in the way of / \ ) and / \ in the rear. As long as you triangulate the links enough, you should be able to get away with a 3 link (no experience in the front on this). The biggest problem with a 3 or 4 link in the front is getting the links to clear the oil pan at full stuff. Not a huge problem, just make sure you account for that in your design. Length on the links is up to you. Longer is nice because then the axle moves up and down more instead of swinging back. Just remember you don't want to be dragging the links everywhere too, so find the "happy medium." Good luck....

Dave

why dont u use a radius arm set up in the front with a panhard bar. you wouldnt really have to worry about the oil pan and u can still use coils.

Drew

Originally posted by Pavement Pounder83
why dont u use a radius arm set up in the front with a panhard bar. you wouldnt really have to worry about the oil pan and u can still use coils.

Drew

Of course that is the another option, or the 5 link. If you decide to go with radius arms though, make sure they are a good design so as not to limit your flex. Do research on wristed arms and the like....