: SuperLift vs. TrailMaster 3-4" front springs
JFoster 05-03-2007, 09:40 PM I am SOA on full width axles and looking for some more lift. Skyjackers are a little too much $ (~$360) so I pretty much have it down to Trailmaster or Superlift. Searched and found some good comments on TM but not much about SL.
Superlift = ~$245
Trailmaster = ~$275
Have you had either? Ride? Flex? Life span? etc
Thoughts on ideal shackle length? as I am still on stock springs/shackles/etc
NVScouter 05-04-2007, 10:13 AM I'm not a fan of the SUperlifts thats why I went Triangle. Do some searching on the two companies springs and you will most likely find they are the same parent MFG. Superlift's Chevy springs are the same as PROCRAP and so forth, I'm not sure if this holds true for the Scout ones or not.
The Superlifts I've seen SUA all sag after a year or so and I'd think SOA would only hasten this effect. I have no exp with Trailmaster at all.
How much lift do you want? If its just and inch or two why not just play with your spring packs?
JFoster 05-04-2007, 12:20 PM I'm not a fan of the SUperlifts thats why I went Triangle. Do some searching on the two companies springs and you will most likely find they are the same parent MFG. Superlift's Chevy springs are the same as PROCRAP and so forth, I'm not sure if this holds true for the Scout ones or not.
The Superlifts I've seen SUA all sag after a year or so and I'd think SOA would only hasten this effect. I have no exp with Trailmaster at all.
How much lift do you want? If its just and inch or two why not just play with your spring packs?
I put a set of ad a leafs on the front and gained ~1/2" but my high steer tie rod is still only 2-3" from my 345 oil pan ... hits all the time ... don't really want that much lift but I need to get the 2 apart. Thinking 3" springs and a new tie rod with a dip (since mine is bent now :rolleyes: )
.... its pretty wide , I think I can live with it
misterfubar 05-04-2007, 01:11 PM I've got the Rancho 2.5" springs and am pretty happy with them. They've been on the truck for about 5 years now SUA with no sagging and the ride is a little firm but they flex decent and I have no problem stuffing any one of the tires.
I'll be using the same springs SOA with my D60 and 14 bolt until I have the cabbage to 4 link it.
I haven't had any personal experience with the Superlifts or the Trailmasters.
NVScouter 05-05-2007, 05:05 PM If thats your price range I have my 4" Triangles I'd sell ya for $250 if you want. Where are you located?
int4108 05-11-2007, 06:18 PM how are old are they?
MochaMike 05-11-2007, 07:41 PM Everyone I know with the 44044 Waggy springs love them.
I have 2.5" BDS springs for a YJ on my 80 & they flex well.
Plus they have a lifetime no questions asked warranty.
JFoster 05-11-2007, 10:22 PM I thought about the 44044s but too much fab for me right now.... don't have the time so I need a direct replacement.
Picked up the TMs today. Still thinkin about how long to make the shackles. Has 2.5" eye to eye shackles now. From searching I think stock is 3.25" eye to eye .... thinking either 3.5" or 4" eye to eye .... prolly not much difference..
Snoopy 05-12-2007, 06:52 AM Are you looking for fronts, rears or both
NVScouter 05-14-2007, 08:01 AM how are old are they?
About 5 years or so, but Binderbasher just made me a deal on em this weekend :flipoff2:
Is it wierd that half the stuff he's been selling ends up at my house and half the stuff I've had for sale goes to his:laughing:
JFoster 05-14-2007, 08:49 AM Are you looking for fronts, rears or both
if that was for me I just got the front 2. For some reason my SOA scout sits ~3" higher in the rear. I swapped on another set of stock springs and still higher in back. So now I have the front lift springs... need to get the tie rod away from the oil pan anyway.
I put a set of ad a leafs on the front and gained ~1/2" but my high steer tie rod is still only 2-3" from my 345 oil pan ... hits all the time ... don't really want that much lift but I need to get the 2 apart. Thinking 3" springs and a new tie rod with a dip (since mine is bent now :rolleyes: )
.... its pretty wide , I think I can live with it
You need to post a picture or link to a picture. Several people have had this problem and each fix it in there own way. Without seeing your setup its hard to say, but I would add a few leafs to keep the oil pan off the tie rod for now. and then figure out all your options. I just replaced my engine with a donner spare and if it works out I most likely pull it and move the motor mounts back a few inches to gain some room up front and offset the weight to the rear.
JFoster 10-02-2007, 10:06 PM Thought I should come back around and drop a review of the TM springs.
Lift: advertised 3", I got at least 4" even with a 345/727 and a rediculous heavy bumper and winch.
Ride: I really like the ride. Not harsh or bouncy even without shocks. Stock springs without shocks was a constant bounce, like riding a wave.
Flex: Perhaps the most inportant category I am sad to say SUCKS. Even with 36s and no trimming I am never into the fenders, and I don't have to worry about my tie rod anymore. My rear suspension is doing all the work and its nothing special just stock springs. Wheeling this weekend I think I had a rear tire in the air most of the time. Ended up laying over on the passenger side.
I am going to pull the 2 shortest leaves out and see if that helps. They are not strapped in with the other leaves. I am hoping that going RS in the future will make a big difference. Think so?
Also looking at 63" chevy rear springs out back as I want to push my rear axle back a little anyway. Not sure if moving to a softer/flexier rear suspension will help or hurt my situation. Thoughts?
NVScouter 10-03-2007, 07:51 AM advertised 3", I got at least 4" even with a 345/727 and a rediculous heavy bumper and winch.
So they advertised 3" and you got at least 4" OVER stock, or over what your old spring heigth?
As far as flex goes, just keep flexing them and see if they loosen up.
63 in the rear will add more flex. I'm running 56" Chevy truck springs as they have a 4" pin offset which moves the axle back 4" if you leave the front eye in the same location, mine are under the frame vs outside. The front springs are a lot shorter in length and don't allow the axle to drop as much for sure.
sprout4two 10-03-2007, 10:28 AM Everyone I know with the 44044 Waggy springs love them.
I have 2.5" BDS springs for a YJ on my 80 & they flex well.
Plus they have a lifetime no questions asked warranty.
Did you have to add any additional springs to them for adequate spring rates/ride heights. I kinda talked a friend (Muxley on here) into using YJ Springs on his 80 with a 4cyl and he ended up adding several leaves to both ends.
I have thought about using the BDS YJ springs up front when supplies of SII fronts run out on my 800. Running 56 Cheby in the back. They work great.
Brandon 10-03-2007, 10:54 AM If your gonna do YJ might as well do wagoneer, same front hanger but a few inches longer out back. I guess that assumes you are redoing all the stuff ;)
MochaMike 10-03-2007, 12:43 PM Did you have to add any additional springs to them for adequate spring rates/ride heights.
Originally No. But I placed the hangers where they needed them.
I tweaked all 4 after about 8 trips. :confused:
Stopped by Parts Mike's & picked up 4 new ones on way back from the Rubicon & swapped them in ($120 to have him ship them back though.... :()
The new ones I did do some work on:
Fronts: I cut a secondary leaf in 1/2 just past the spring plate section, these are inside the main leaf going toward the rear (kinda like overload anti wraps).
Rears Added a stock small leaf & an anti-wrap bar.
Urban Wheeler 10-03-2007, 05:53 PM I put a set of ad a leafs on the front and gained ~1/2" but my high steer tie rod is still only 2-3" from my 345 oil pan ... hits all the time ... don't really want that much lift but I need to get the 2 apart. Thinking 3" springs and a new tie rod with a dip (since mine is bent now :rolleyes: )
.... its pretty wide , I think I can live with it
Is your tie rod on top of or under the steer arms?
JFoster 10-03-2007, 09:42 PM Is your tie rod on top of or under the steer arms?
Mine is on top, any lower and it would be into the springs. No longer hitting the pan now with more lift.
63 in the rear will add more flex. I'm running 56" Chevy truck springs as they have a 4" pin offset which moves the axle back 4" if you leave the front eye in the same location, mine are under the frame vs outside. The front springs are a lot shorter in length and don't allow the axle to drop as much for sure.
They don't fit the stock eye do they? Wider right?
I am liking the idea of less spring behind the axle as I am giving alot of thought to bobbing off some of my scouts ass.
They don't fit the stock eye do they? Wider right?
I am liking the idea of less spring behind the axle as I am giving alot of thought to bobbing off some of my scouts ass.
Yes wider. Scout springs are 2" GM are 2.5" If you run 63" there won't be much to bob. I like full lenght body as my stuff stay cleaner on the inside :D
JFoster 10-04-2007, 04:28 PM Originally I wouldn't have wanted to hack up my scout but I have been wheeling with a pair of YJs and now my bedsides are beat and they continually kill me with their departure angle.
IH454SSII 10-04-2007, 05:41 PM i have stuipd lift 4" springs.(4years old now) The fronts have absolutly no flex to them, the only flex i have in the front is in the 35" boggers. I wish i would of spent the extra $$ on skyjackers.:mad3:
Originally I wouldn't have wanted to hack up my scout but I have been wheeling with a pair of YJs and now my bedsides are beat and they continually kill me with their departure angle.
Look at Rocktractors ScoutII, it looks like a Terra. Maybe
Originally I wouldn't have wanted to hack up my scout but I have been wheeling with a pair of YJs and now my bedsides are beat and they continually kill me with their departure angle.
You need to find some hill climbs that YJ can't do without risk of damage. There is $1000 hill :smokin: Your wheelbase is longer and you need to take advantage of that and find a spot on the trail that short wheel base YJ can't do with out a risk of damage :evil::evil::D
JFoster 10-09-2007, 07:10 PM You need to find some hill climbs that YJ can't do without risk of damage. There is $1000 hill :smokin: Your wheelbase is longer and you need to take advantage of that and find a spot on the trail that short wheel base YJ can't do with out a risk of damage :evil::evil::D
Hill climbs are where they skunk me. They'll run up something so steep I drag my rear bumper on the approach ... plus one of them is stretched.
I have been considering leaving my rear axle where it is and using the chevy springs to move my mounts 4" forward. Leaving my drive shaft and bump stops unchanged and letting me bob off more of the back. Giving some thought to narrowing while I am at it, as I am always leaning into a tree that they cruz right past.
You need to update your sig, so we can remember what size tires and other details about your rig.
Dove tailing the rear would be cool.
Post a pic:homer:
uglyscout 10-10-2007, 08:13 AM I have been considering leaving my rear axle where it is and using the chevy springs to move my mounts 4" forward. Leaving my drive shaft and bump stops unchanged and letting me bob off more of the back. Giving some thought to narrowing while I am at it, as I am always leaning into a tree that they cruz right past.
I cut off the back foot or so of the body on my Scout and it really didn't help much... The problem really becomes the width and height of the body behind the rear tires.
BUT if you just 'power' through the trees and operate with a total disregard for body damage you should be able to keep up/keep ahead of your jeep buddies :flipoff2:
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