Kind of a newbie question
hey i just picked up a 1975 chevy 2500 and i am installing a 10 inch lift. I just put in the front lift springs and i noticed that the driveshaft is nowhere close to meeting up with the pinion. Even if i lengthen the drviveshaft it will not line up properly (2-3 inches above). I was wondering what i need to do in order for this problem to go away?

thanks

two choices in my book, one cut and turn the pumpkin up to the right angle or 2 u can try to lower the t case down but thats not the right way but another way it to get a double cv shaft!

http://highangledriveline.com/

http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html

there are others. you are going to send a bunch to get the angle you need. or you could lengthen your stock one and gring the stops out in the CV. but if you do that I suspect it will not last long offroad.

Why 10" of lift? thats gonna ride like crap and flex even worse. is the truck a mudder?


lots of good info here about Chevy's www.coloradok5.com

ya this is going to be a mudder.
we picked up the truck for $300 and we have alot of chevy parts around to build it up big. I have never tried lifting a truck this big so i wanted to learn how. Anyways that is the deal with the truck. Thanks for the comments. I have a cut and rotated axle so i will throw that in.

10 inch lift and mudding ?
That sounds like a diaster waiting to happen in my opinion. Great for a street queen or show truck, but anything above a 6-inch suspension lift is not realistic for muddin or off-road on a stock truck frame - not if you plan to stand on the skinny pedal for any stretch of time. Too top heavy for one, and the axle wrap is going to be murder. If you install bars to keep the rear axle from wrapping then your articulation goes to shit. - just my opinion, and yes, I know every asshole has an opinion. :flipoff2:

i dont agree with you, i have around 12 inches suspension with shackles flips and 3 inch body with 44's i have a 383 stroker with 460 ft lbs and i hammer the shit out of it and even axle wrap has not been a big problem, i mean i do agree you do need to mac some trac bars, but for some reason everyone on this site hates big lift, first off mud trucks are not made to flex like like rock crawlers, more to look bad ass and hammer the shit out of mud pits. you build it right then you dont need to worry bout your rig falling apart

im at 6" and 37"s the only reason i don't go to an 8 is because i dont have any money too


hate lifts? my buddy has a k30 on a 16" and 40"s hhahahaha..stock driveline, somehow, idk how but he did it..

i think blue torch has these things you throw between your leaves and the axle that sets it at an angle so you have the correct angle...its a shilling(sp?) if you know what i mean.

you are going to want and need new shafts...

you need to take the frount end apart and cut the welds on the stearing yokes turn them to increses your castor to pinion angle, to about at 10 lift, you will need to go about 20 degrees, any more you will not oil your pinion bearing.

20* is way to much for 10" lift. I had 20" of lift with 20* of pinion angle and it was perfect.

i think blue torch has these things you throw between your leaves and the axle that sets it at an angle so you have the correct angle...its a shilling(sp?) if you know what i mean.


http://numismondo.com/pm/ocn/OcnP.R21ShillingND1943.jpg

so you just put a few of these between your axle and springs, and itll help driveshaft angles?

i dont see them on the BTF website..

I've done the cut and weld on a Dana 44 with a 12" kit in my old mudder, I actually over-rotated it so the angle was opposite at the pinion u-joint. It worked great, it was just a pain to put oil in it because of the angle of the fill plug. When I upgraded to a Dana 60 I wasn't about to cut one of those up so I went with a divorced t-case...solved all my problems :)