any ideas on how to do crossover steering on a dana 27? weld in new arm directly above existing arm? your ideas would be helpful.

Let me be the first to say why?

Swap at least a 44 in there.

Call me crazy but I really don't understand people dumping money into the little axles... Run them stock until you break something then upgrade..... :rolleyes:

You can make a "hy-steer arm" to replace the top cap kind of like a Toyota setup. I ran one on a 25 for about a year, with 33" tires. Worked fine. If you do a setup like that replace the bolts with a stud/nut setup.

why would ANYBODY do something like that:confused:
See what happens when Jeepsunlimited is down:rolleyes:
:flipoff2:

model 25 or 27=

Jeepdude Jay... you have any photos of your setup? Ive got a closed knuckle d30 from a cammando, I want to hy-steer... Justt need some dieas, so I can make it up at the shop.

E-mail me at brokenwillys@aol.com i did one a few years back when i did not have the cash to rear gear a 44, i welded a peace to the knuckles and then made the arms come out from the king pins and bolt to the part i welded on, so the kin pins could come out if needed.

i used small hiems ( 5/8 ) never broke them and used a piece of 1020 solid bar stock for the steering arms. what i know now and what i new then i would not upgrade a small axle ( 25-27 ) like that agin but if its what you had like me use it, jason.

any ideas on how to do crossover steering on a dana 27? weld in new arm directly above existing arm? your ideas would be helpful.

I too wanted to buy those cool looking high steer arms, but I got the measurements and they wouldn't work. An old Jeep friend told me to use this steering knuckle from a late 60's Jeepster with two seperate holes. I used 5/8" heims. It's not quite as high as the true high steer arms, but did bring it up at least 2" if not slightly more.
Funny thing here reading about all these guys slamming the old 27. My dad and I have been running these for 40 years and only broken 1 axle. As long as you use 33" tires and go light on the stupid pedal they'll work great. I'm kinda partial to them for the stock factor too.

MrWillys,

I did the same thing and swapped the passenger side knuckle out. A good friend gave me one and it works flawlessly.

On a different note, do you have a part number for the rubber/felt wiper set for the closed knuckle? The local parts monkeys have been having trouble tracking them down for me. I would really appreciate it! Thanks

I got mine from Archer Brothers in Hayward California (510) 587-9587. He's starting to close up shop, but He might still be there. You can do an internet search and there's tons of resto places out there selling this stuff. Tellico Jeep is pretty good, but they bombard you with junk e-mail.

I've been running the 27 in front on my 5 for years. Its locked and runs 4:89 gears. I've only broken i shaft because I was stupid and tried to pull backwards. I run full paddles in the dunes and run 35" baja claws. I have also done the double knuckle conversion with full heim joints. Most of the guys here talk shit but read past them. Not everyone needs 60's. Now the scrambler was built bigger and has the needed axles. Little cj5's on 33 do not need 60's

Jeepdude Jay... you have any photos of your setup? Ive got a closed knuckle d30 from a cammando, I want to hy-steer... Justt need some dieas, so I can make it up at the shop.


Jeep NEVER used a closed knuckle D30.........

I'm kinda partial to them for the stock factor too.
makes perfect sense with coilovers :flipoff2:

In an earlier post you said your 27a did not have cardan ujoints for the axle shafts. what kind does it have?

Standard spicer u joint. Its just a little fellow. Open ujoint oiled by the oil in the closed knuckle. Its the same size as the pto ujoint I runn for the steering.
Kory

Standard spicer u joint. Its just a little fellow. Open ujoint oiled by the oil in the closed knuckle. Its the same size as the pto ujoint I runn for the steering.
Kory

That is what I thought, but he seems to think he has something "special"

Nothing special, just smaller.

I have a dana 27a with closed knuckel dana 44 shafts here going in some day. You gain the strength of the 44 ujoints, but still have the smaller ring gear. But for running the sand dunes the axle it just fine. I running 300hp and full paddles. It just takes a light foot.
kory

If I recall, a closed knuckle D44 uses a 5-97x cross, which is like a 260x cross without the seals, right?

Correct, open seal.

makes perfect sense with coilovers :flipoff2:

In an earlier post you said your 27a did not have cardan ujoints for the axle shafts. what kind does it have?
Model 25's have a loose ball bearing system. When they UPGRADED to the 27A they went with a spicer u-joint.
As for my coilovers on my fairly stock looking Jeep. How about I build it the way I want... Are you the Jeep police or something. I really like the fact that you have to look real close to figure out what my rig really is.
Must be a slow day for you?

OK, so if I break mine, what do I get these out of?
I have a dana 27a with closed knuckel dana 44 shafts here going in some day. You gain the strength of the 44 ujoints, but still have the smaller ring gear. But for running the sand dunes the axle it just fine. I running 300hp and full paddles. It just takes a light foot.
kory

I got them from a closed 44. had them shortened and splined correctly. I also did the dana 30 disk brake conversion, with disk on my rear 44. I have an old remote brake booster to boost the brake pressure. Not sure of the brand or even where to get one.
Kory

Model 25's have a loose ball bearing system. When they UPGRADED to the 27A they went with a spicer u-joint.
As for my coilovers on my fairly stock looking Jeep. How about I build it the way I want... Are you the Jeep police or something. I really like the fact that you have to look real close to figure out what my rig really is.
Must be a slow day for you?

Not all- my 25 had the same spicer joint as your 27a- which BTW is a cardan style joint (you said yours was not cardan style:shaking: ) -stupid to argue since it is weaker than a d30......

I am not the jeep police, just a little tired of the shit you spew out of your pie hole.

I guess then I was wrong, and the 25 is better than the 27? I was under the impression that this u-joint was the difference between the two.
As for my pie hole, Pi$$ off.....
Not all- my 25 had the same spicer joint as your 27a- which BTW is a cardan style joint (you said yours was not cardan style:shaking: ) -stupid to argue since it is weaker than a d30......

I am not the jeep police, just a little tired of the shit you spew out of your pie hole.

I guess then I was wrong, and the 25 is better than the 27? I was under the impression that this u-joint was the difference between the two.

Nope, difference is the gear ratios you can put in them. 25's come with 3 different types of joints depending on when they were made. I ran a 25 with Rzeppa joints and 33" tires for 4 years until the Rzeppa finally wore enough to fall apart.

OK, so now I know 2 of the 3 types of joints. What do you mean about gear ratio's? Which one do you think is better, or was it strickly for the ration change and they're really the same?

Nope, difference is the gear ratios you can put in them. 25's come with 3 different types of joints depending on when they were made. I ran a 25 with Rzeppa joints and 33" tires for 4 years until the Rzeppa finally wore enough to fall apart.

OK, so now I know 2 of the 3 types of joints. What do you mean about gear ratio's? Which one do you think is better, or was it strickly for the ration change and they're really the same?

Dana 25 7 3/4" ring gear 4.27:1, 4.88:1, 5.38:1, and 6.17
Dana 27 7 1/5" ring gear 3.54:1, 3.73:1, 4.10:1, 4.27:1, 4.88:1, and 5.38:1

Ring and pinion on the D25 is larger and stronger. The shafts are the same size, and all the outer junk interchanges.

My stock gears are stamped 4:89 in all three cj5's at my place.

I got them from a closed 44. had them shortened and splined correctly. I also did the dana 30 disk brake conversion, with disk on my rear 44. I have an old remote brake booster to boost the brake pressure. Not sure of the brand or even where to get one.
Kory

I found the conversion article on earlyCJ5.com ( http://www.earlycj5.com/tech/brakes/diskSwap/disc_conversion.shtml ), and in the process of converting, however the part number they list for the rotor (103552) is NOT 1 1/8" thick. It is 7/8" thick. The 103550 is 1 1/8" thick, and $130 in the 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern that I need. Any help here? Also, the wheel stud number listed are stock studs on my axle...how much spline engagement is needed in the hub?