All new brake calipers, lines, and pads.
3/4th ton calipers up front,
Caddy calipers in rear
1/2 ton master and booster

For the life of me i cannot get a firm pedal.
I bleed and bleed and bleed and still my pedal sucks and gos to the floor. sometimes i think it gets better but it still sucks.

I did the old fashion 2 person way, then i bought a 1 person vac bleeder and it still isnt working. Brake pedal is hard with engine off and with engine on it sucks...

some people say i need to remove my proportining valve but i dont think so rite? That wouldnt cause my soft pedal...?

Help!

If you let the master drain completely while doing the swap you might have to bench bleed it.

I hate to be the one to tell you this, but this subject has been discussed 100's of times, all over the web. You need but search and ye shall find. Use Google, and do a Pirate search; or just do a Google search in general. The Caddy rear discs with parking brake are a special animal requireing a specific procedure to set and bleed correctly.

what is the bore on the 1/2 ton master? i have a 1-1/4" bore master from a 3/4 ton chevy, 1/2 ton chevy callipers in front and monte carlo callipers in the rear. the peddal if very firm and stops my toyota great. your master is probably too small. i think you are going to need a 1-1/4" or 1-5/16" bore master.

like mentioned above, you may also still have air in your rear callipers. the bleeders need to be at a certain angle in order to get all the air out. i don't remember what angle that is off the top of my head but it shouldn't be very hard to find.

edit: like said above, you need to bench bleed your master before you bleed the lines and callipers.

Your MC is fine size. S10 MC stops those calipers just fine. You've got air in there somewhere.

I've had success bleeding calipers by removing them (but keeping the hose attached) and using a block of wood to keep the caliper "open" while bleeding. This allows me to move the caliper around to get all the air up to the nipple. I've also made a pressure bleeder out of a $5 pesticide sprayer that seems to work well and makes bleeding a snap!

FWIW, I had to replace my MC with a larger bore (I think I used a old wagoneer power MC to replace the stock CJ non power MC)when dicking w/ my brakes (I went 3/4 ton front w/ caddy rears). It felt like I had air in the system and I bled the F*** out of it but the peddel was still mooshy. It turned out that the smaller MC didn't move enough fluid to move the larger caliper pistons. The larger MC fixed the problem. One way to help isolate the problem is to cap off the different sections to help figure where the problem is.

Good luck

too small of a master would be a low pedal or it bottoming
not spongy

in more ideas? im starting to think i should just switch out my master cylinder. Im getting brake, but if i needed to make a emergency stop i couldnt. It only gets good when the pedal is like 3/5ths down and even then it still kinda sucks. There is no air in the lines... atleast i think.

Go hydroboost. I had the same problem once I went rear disc on the YJ, tried all the popular remedies (dual diaphram booster, single diaphram booster, E350MC, Marquis MC, Corvette MC).

Now it will put you through the windshield.

When you use the "pump" and crack the bleeder screw method; you fragment the air. The bubbles are so small unless you use a high pressure bleeder to wash them our; they stay. The bubbles stick to the brake lines with surface tension and will not dislodge. Air in the system causes a soft pedal

Let the system sit for a day or so. Tap the lines to coalesce the air bubbles and gravity bleed.

Anyone who does not gravity bleed a new install is an idjot. :flipoff2:
Lord knows I have done enough brake swaps..


Shite; this is pirate. figured some one would know that :)

Ask and you shall receive. I went through all the usual answers that never worked as well. I found a brake expert and found the solution for me.

Bendix 11730

I will never forget this part number.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=580210