: Which transfer case?
Root Moose 05-31-2002, 07:55 PM Ok, I'm stuck. This is what I want to build:
* long wheelbase Samurai
* 1992 GM 4.3 (~165hp, non-Vortec)
* 1990 700R4
* Scout D44s front and rear (passenger side front drop)
* 37x12.5x15 MTRs or similar
* 5.12 - 5.89 axle gearing
I figure target weigth around 3000 lb (optimistic?).
Which t-case you think I should use and why?
Some of the obvious ones i've been looking at are Dana 300, NP231/241, Dana 20 (Scout adapted), Toyota.
I'm thinking the 241 is just too damn big and won't fit between the frame rails, need to go to the wrecker to measure.
I'm not worried about an aluminum case and/or chain drive. Plenty stout for my usage, belly pan takes care of the rest.
I like the 2.72 ratio of the 231, can't seem to find a passenger side drop version though.
The 231/241 could almost be bolted on without buying an adapter.
Toy would be ok, need to buy an adapter though (did I mention zero budget? :D). Like the idea of stacking - I have the wheelbase for it if not the money.
The D20 - 2:1 ratio isn't spinning my crank. Money for an adapter...
Any others options?
Any funky AWD capable boxes out there with a centered rear, passenger front output worth looking at? All the 242s seem to be driver's drop.
r@m
Sillyneck 05-31-2002, 07:59 PM I'd go toyota or d-300. either one has killer gear options. you'll be hard pressed to break either. the 300 is twinstickable making front low and 2 low optional. I have a 300 w/ 4:1's and t kicks but. 300's a re very common and adapters are readily available. so i'd just go 300.
road1will 05-31-2002, 08:01 PM if you wouldnt mind going with a pass offset rear too there is the LandRover LT230. as strong as an atlas, lighter and smaller than a 205, aluminum case, all gear drive.
3.3:1 low
1.2:1 high
adapter available to the 700R4
pass offset front
a helluva lot cheaper than anything else that compares to it. (about $500 for a good one)
widely available!!!
crawl box and lower gearsets available too, as well as a 1:1 high range and overdrives.
oh yeah and STRONG AS HELL!!!
go for it.
Root Moose 05-31-2002, 08:08 PM Originally posted by Sillyneck
I'd go toyota or d-300. either one has killer gear options. you'll be hard pressed to break either. the 300 is twinstickable making front low and 2 low optional. I have a 300 w/ 4:1's and t kicks but. 300's a re very common and adapters are readily available. so i'd just go 300.
What kind of coin are we talking for a D300 4:1 gear set?
D300s are non slip yoke front and rear, right?
r@m
Root Moose 05-31-2002, 08:13 PM Originally posted by 9-Volt
if you wouldnt mind going with a pass offset rear too there is the LandRover LT230. as strong as an atlas, lighter and smaller than a 205, aluminum case, all gear drive.
3.3:1 low
1.2:1 high
adapter available to the 700R4
pass offset front
a helluva lot cheaper than anything else that compares to it. (about $500 for a good one)
widely available!!!
crawl box and lower gearsets available too, as well as a 1:1 high range and overdrives.
oh yeah and STRONG AS HELL!!!
go for it.
Coin for the 700R4 adapter?
The LT230 is AWD, no?
I'm not keen on an offset rear axle, been dealing with offset axles on the Suzuki stuff for too long already. It's a PITA when it comes time for a change (limited options). I suppose there is Waggy axles but I have the Scout axles already...
r@m
evilfij 05-31-2002, 08:22 PM waggy axles should be about free if you part with the scout axles and I hear from the zuk people that they are pretty easy to fit.
I would go with the LT230, for the case and adaptor you would be about 1000 or less. All that for a 3.3 low range and as an added bonus the rear output is low like the front output so its easier on your driveline angles. Part time conversion is only 250 (or less if you buy the AVM one)
Also while offset rear axles are not common, no one seems to want them so they are available. Van Dana 60 and Dana 70 are all over the place and you can flip an eaton if you want some serious beef.
Also it is easier for me to drive when my diffs are in a line.
Ron
PS on second thought you do not want one. Need to keep them cheap for the rover people
twistedmetal 05-31-2002, 08:37 PM Hey there, Moose. You are in the same boat as I am. I'm building my Sidekick with a 4.3, TH350, Dual 60's and 38x14.50 SX's. Just cannot decide on a freakin' T-case! I've got a Toy, but it pisses me off that I gotta spend $460 to bolt it on. I would NOT run a D300. Even though it may be strong enough for your rig, A friend of mine runs a Jeep with the Tera Low kit in it and is on his 3rd output shaft and his 4th case. Pops them in half right down the middle. And he's not the only one. Right now, I am leaning toward an NP205. Beefy, but no gearing options.
I say go Toyota case with the HD output shaft?
Root Moose 05-31-2002, 08:40 PM Hmm, this thread makes a lot of good points about that case too...
LT230 vs Atlas (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=54850)
Root Moose 05-31-2002, 08:44 PM Originally posted by twistedmetal
Hey there, Moose. You are in the same boat as I am. I'm building my Sidekick with a 4.3, TH350, Dual 60's and 38x14.50 SX's. Just cannot decide on a freakin' T-case! I've got a Toy, but it pisses me off that I gotta spend $460 to bolt it on. I would NOT run a D300. Even though it may be strong enough for your rig, A friend of mine runs a Jeep with the Tera Low kit in it and is on his 3rd output shaft and his 4th case. Pops them in half right down the middle. And he's not the only one. Right now, I am leaning toward an NP205. Beefy, but no gearing options.
I say go Toyota case with the HD output shaft?
Have you test fit a 205 in the frame rails of a Trackick? I really don't think it'll fit...without clocking it way down or hacking out part of the rail.
If you know better please enlighten! :D
I agree, paying money for adapters sucks big hairy...well you know. Also, I'm north of 49. $460USD is over $1000 to me by the time it is across the border.
r@m
Root Moose 05-31-2002, 08:46 PM Originally posted by evilfij
waggy axles should be about free if you part with the scout axles and I hear from the zuk people that they are pretty easy to fit.
I would go with the LT230, for the case and adaptor you would be about 1000 or less. All that for a 3.3 low range and as an added bonus the rear output is low like the front output so its easier on your driveline angles. Part time conversion is only 250 (or less if you buy the AVM one)
Point taken about the waggy axles being cheap. They are.
What's the attraction of the part time conversion? Does it actually beef something up internally or is it just an anti-AWD slant?
r@m
twistedmetal 05-31-2002, 08:48 PM Well, first off, MOVE SOUTH!!
I did some preliminary measurments, and it looks like the 205 will invade the framerail by about 1 inch. But the floorboard is a whole nuther story! Looks like my wife might have to ride with her feet up!
I was thinking too, if you could build a girdle for the 300, it may survive. But who wants to find out the hard way 3 days into an awesome trail? Not I...
evilfij 05-31-2002, 09:22 PM "What's the attraction of the part time conversion? Does it actually beef something up internally or is it just an anti-AWD slant?"
Mainly anti AWD but it replaces the center diff with a puck so that makes it stronger. However, it is very unlikely that you would have any issues running your set up leaving it as is.
Ron
Root Moose 06-01-2002, 06:44 AM Originally posted by evilfij
Mainly anti AWD but it replaces the center diff with a puck so that makes it stronger. However, it is very unlikely that you would have any issues running your set up leaving it as is.
That was my thought. That's why I was looking at the 242 out of Jeeps as well.
r@m
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