Looks like the we're going to be getting a rear drive shaft disconnect produced for the LT230 case. Might tackle the front after this is completed. Anyone else have any interest?:grinpimp:

how are you thinking of doing this and why ?

Dave

I am interested. I was thinking of making my own, but I'm definatly interesting in what you have going.

There's a company that makes these units for Suzuki's and Toyota's. I sent him the rear assembly off this case and got the thumbs up after they had a look at it. Needs to be blue printed etc.

Love to see it, I worry a bit about the centerdiff and the front output shaft getting a bit "loose" after a while running FWD.. My poor T case sound like it's ready to fall out of the truck after spending a month doing front digs with the Supercharger on it.

I'm hoping the front output will hold up! We'll find out I guess.
I signed you up for a half a dozen Keith.:D

I'm hoping the front output will hold up! We'll find out I guess.
I signed you up for a half a dozen Keith.:D

I'm all about that!!

Now if I can only finish a few of these part time conversions!!!

I'm all about that!!

Now if I can only finish a few of these part time conversions!!!


Hi Keith,

are you aware you can buy these LT230 part time kits 'off the shelf' from AVM :

http://www.avm.com.br/products4.htm

you get some parts to go in the centre diff and a pair of free wheeling hubs, only about £ 120,

Hey Dave

Yes I've seen the AVM kit.. It looks like a a decent piece and a pretty fair price with the hubs. I would likely not run the hubs and live with pushing the extra weight of the front driveline simply because I've broken too many hubs, even good ones :) As it is the last part time diff replacement slug I made cost the customer about $75 He didn't want hubs either..

What I really want is a AWD truck with a center diff that has the ability to lock out front drive or rear drive and lock up everything, my choice.. Heck that's not too much to ask is it?

I wonder if I could fit a strong enough locking mechanism in the front of that center diff.... Nahhh nevermind..

how are you thinking of doing this and why ?

Dave

Dave, Some truck differentials, and powerdivider differentials I 've worked on have bronze bushings or needle roller bearings in all the bevel gears for long life. Have you or anyone you know of looked at modifying a Rover centre diffential in this manner so that, One, they last loner in normal use and Two, so that it's possible to do regular front digs without replacing the centre diff every month?
Bill.

Dave, Some truck differentials, and powerdivider differentials I 've worked on have bronze bushings or needle roller bearings in all the bevel gears for long life. Have you or anyone you know of looked at modifying a Rover centre diffential in this manner so that, One, they last loner in normal use and Two, so that it's possible to do regular front digs without replacing the centre diff every month?
Bill.

Amen to that Bill! This and the desire to have the ability to apply power to the rear wheels is the only reason I would remove the center differential!

Dave, Some truck differentials, and powerdivider differentials I 've worked on have bronze bushings or needle roller bearings in all the bevel gears for long life. Have you or anyone you know of looked at modifying a Rover centre diffential in this manner so that, One, they last loner in normal use and Two, so that it's possible to do regular front digs without replacing the centre diff every month?
Bill.

Funny you should say that, that is exactly what we did about 2 months ago for a customer, stick with stock gears in the centre diff , make a special hardened cross pin with reduced diameter shafts and run with needle roller bearings, we also removed the spring that engages the diff lock with a solid spacer so you get instant engagement,

the vehicle in question runs a 5.0 TVR V8, 4HP24, 1.003 LT230 and portals and we wanted him to do some 'front digs',

2 problems with this set up,

1) to do a 'dig' you need to put the front locker in, full lock, handbrake on knock it out of diff lock and hit the gas, this is quite alot to do in the heat of a competition. One way I thought of doing it was to fit an upright rally style handbrake (no rachet), under the handbrake fit a pnumatic switch and wire the diff lock light up backwards to abig dummy lamp on the dash, so to do a 'dig' you pull on the handbrake, when you pull it the pnumatic switch fires a cylinder which knocks you out of diff lock and once out the dummy light comes on the dash and you hit the gas.

2) this set up means the front axle turns at double speed as the rear is locked, very big stress for a little centre diff,

he's tried it a few times and it's not broken yet but the pins are too small a diameter to fit the bearings in for my liking and I would like another solution,

I think what you are looking for keith is a spool and a selectable dog clutch like you have on the front nose cone but on the rear as well, so you can run front only, rear only and locked but you will not be able to run constant 4 wheel drive with a unlocked centre diff,

Funny you should say that, that is exactly what we did about 2 months ago for a customer, stick with stock gears in the centre diff , make a special hardened cross pin with reduced diameter shafts and run with needle roller bearings, we also removed the spring that engages the diff lock with a solid spacer so you get instant engagement,

the vehicle in question runs a 5.0 TVR V8, 4HP24, 1.003 LT230 and portals and we wanted him to do some 'front digs',

2 problems with this set up,

1) to do a 'dig' you need to put the front locker in, full lock, handbrake on knock it out of diff lock and hit the gas, this is quite alot to do in the heat of a competition. One way I thought of doing it was to fit an upright rally style handbrake (no rachet), under the handbrake fit a pnumatic switch and wire the diff lock light up backwards to abig dummy lamp on the dash, so to do a 'dig' you pull on the handbrake, when you pull it the pnumatic switch fires a cylinder which knocks you out of diff lock and once out the dummy light comes on the dash and you hit the gas.

2) this set up means the front axle turns at double speed as the rear is locked, very big stress for a little centre diff,

he's tried it a few times and it's not broken yet but the pins are too small a diameter to fit the bearings in for my liking and I would like another solution,

I think what you are looking for keith is a spool and a selectable dog clutch like you have on the front nose cone but on the rear as well, so you can run front only, rear only and locked but you will not be able to run constant 4 wheel drive with a unlocked centre diff,

Yes Dave, I think you may have to start off with a larger gear set and remachine the centre diff carrier to suit. That way you shouldn't have to reduce the diameter of the crosspins to fit bushings or needle rollers. IIRC the spline pattern of the LT230 output shafts is identical to 28 spline 9'' Ford.
Any chance of sqeezing a set of those bevel gears in ? You could maybe spotface the 4 pinion gear seats in the carrier and grind the hemispheres off the pinion gears to permit the use of needle thrust bearings in addition to making space for the larger gears.
Bill.
Bill.