Wheelie_Pete
06-02-2002, 07:23 PM
Finally, I went and borrowed a digital camera so I could get some pics up for you guys (spent so much time on the truck Saturday with Rick I didn't have time to get film developed)
Okay, here we go....
Here's the drop x-member stitch welded in. No, those aren't "Go-Fast Holes" in the front, they are there so I can plug weld the angle to the tube behind it for maximum strength. I have two 1" holes that I will plug weld in the bottom of the angle also. this thing ain't coming off ever. Notice that I also trimmed the fender flush with the bottom of the headlight bezel area. We're going to build a tube bumper and wrap it around right about there. Not to mention I now have buku tire clearance. The drop member moved the spring eye forward 3/4" of stock and about 1.5 inches lower than stock. The springs are stock 7 leaf Waggoneer and will sit pretty close to flat with the weight of the truck on them. The shackle anlge will lay back at a nice, but not extreme angle. These springs are soooooooo soft! I am looking forward to a nice ride after having to endure the last 3 years or so on those un-believeably stiff 3 leaf lift springs from Tuff-country.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Front.JPG
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Front02.JPG
This top shot allows you to see the tube I had to weld in behind the angle to give me something to weld the angle to. The first gen trucks had the frame stick out 1" past the crossmember so I had to weld in a tube to make up the difference + some. The end result moved my spring eyes forward 3/4"
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Top01.jpg
Good rear shot of the crossmember where you can also see the gussetts that I added to the receiver. The receiver is fully welded around the top of the tube along with a 1" plug weld through the bottom of the angle, but I figured that the gussets would eliminate any chance of a problem. Notice that the spring eye "buckets" will fit a 3" spring eye with no problems. (3" is larger than the waggy fat end spring eye which is the end that is running forward.)
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Rear01.jpg
Why spend money on new shackles. The Toyota shackle pins are pressed into the shackle plate so just stick them in a vice and hit the pin, it pops right out like a wheel stud. Then weld some 3/8" plate to the outer side of the shackle plates, plug weld the 18mm hole where the bottom pin was, then drill a bigger hole for you new pin (in my case I still have to drill the 9/16 hole for the waggy spring bolt, what you see in the picture is my pilot hole.) Attn Critics of welded shackles: If you think this will break you are smokin' some strong crack! That plug weld makes the piece 1/2" thick! Shackles are now 5" center to center.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Shackle01.jpg
Shot of the droop and shackle angle at droop.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Side01.jpg
Power steering bracing to mount the new IFS power steering box. notice how we had to bend the inner plate to match the factory jog in the '81 frame. Both plates are 1/4" thick with the top bolt being sleeved as it is above the frame. No need to sleeve the other two bolts cause' there's 1/2" of steel on the outside and 3/8" on the inside (including frame thickness) that box ain't going anywhere.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/PS01.jpg
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/PS02.jpg
This is the single best sawzall blade for metal I have ever used. For this whole project I have only used up one of these blades. that includes cutting off the bracketry, cutting the 3/8 for the shackles, cutting the 1/4 plate for the PS box, and lots of other stuff.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Torch.JPG
Well, so far so good. I probably have a few more weeks to go on it. I'm going to clean and paint everything after I do the finish welding. I want to add a gusset to the outside edges of the angle. I still have to figure out the placement of the extended shock towers and shocks. The big stuff is pretty much taken care of now though. MANY MANY thanks to Rick for the hours he put in with me on Saturday getting the steering box and crossmember stuff all lined up. (We test fit the entire steering system under the truck to get optimal box placement. I still have room to move my axle forward a little if needed. We mounted the PS box higher and farther forward than most people do for clearance. We had to nibble some sheet metal to get it to work, but it's sweet. You'll see it in later pictures when I get them scanned.)
What's really funny is most of the time we were working on this we were discussing how we could get our hands on a cheap early toy to buggy. Would probably be more cost effective to just go and roll this one then we'd have an excuse. :D
Okay, here we go....
Here's the drop x-member stitch welded in. No, those aren't "Go-Fast Holes" in the front, they are there so I can plug weld the angle to the tube behind it for maximum strength. I have two 1" holes that I will plug weld in the bottom of the angle also. this thing ain't coming off ever. Notice that I also trimmed the fender flush with the bottom of the headlight bezel area. We're going to build a tube bumper and wrap it around right about there. Not to mention I now have buku tire clearance. The drop member moved the spring eye forward 3/4" of stock and about 1.5 inches lower than stock. The springs are stock 7 leaf Waggoneer and will sit pretty close to flat with the weight of the truck on them. The shackle anlge will lay back at a nice, but not extreme angle. These springs are soooooooo soft! I am looking forward to a nice ride after having to endure the last 3 years or so on those un-believeably stiff 3 leaf lift springs from Tuff-country.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Front.JPG
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Front02.JPG
This top shot allows you to see the tube I had to weld in behind the angle to give me something to weld the angle to. The first gen trucks had the frame stick out 1" past the crossmember so I had to weld in a tube to make up the difference + some. The end result moved my spring eyes forward 3/4"
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Top01.jpg
Good rear shot of the crossmember where you can also see the gussetts that I added to the receiver. The receiver is fully welded around the top of the tube along with a 1" plug weld through the bottom of the angle, but I figured that the gussets would eliminate any chance of a problem. Notice that the spring eye "buckets" will fit a 3" spring eye with no problems. (3" is larger than the waggy fat end spring eye which is the end that is running forward.)
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Rear01.jpg
Why spend money on new shackles. The Toyota shackle pins are pressed into the shackle plate so just stick them in a vice and hit the pin, it pops right out like a wheel stud. Then weld some 3/8" plate to the outer side of the shackle plates, plug weld the 18mm hole where the bottom pin was, then drill a bigger hole for you new pin (in my case I still have to drill the 9/16 hole for the waggy spring bolt, what you see in the picture is my pilot hole.) Attn Critics of welded shackles: If you think this will break you are smokin' some strong crack! That plug weld makes the piece 1/2" thick! Shackles are now 5" center to center.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Shackle01.jpg
Shot of the droop and shackle angle at droop.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Side01.jpg
Power steering bracing to mount the new IFS power steering box. notice how we had to bend the inner plate to match the factory jog in the '81 frame. Both plates are 1/4" thick with the top bolt being sleeved as it is above the frame. No need to sleeve the other two bolts cause' there's 1/2" of steel on the outside and 3/8" on the inside (including frame thickness) that box ain't going anywhere.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/PS01.jpg
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/PS02.jpg
This is the single best sawzall blade for metal I have ever used. For this whole project I have only used up one of these blades. that includes cutting off the bracketry, cutting the 3/8 for the shackles, cutting the 1/4 plate for the PS box, and lots of other stuff.
http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Torch.JPG
Well, so far so good. I probably have a few more weeks to go on it. I'm going to clean and paint everything after I do the finish welding. I want to add a gusset to the outside edges of the angle. I still have to figure out the placement of the extended shock towers and shocks. The big stuff is pretty much taken care of now though. MANY MANY thanks to Rick for the hours he put in with me on Saturday getting the steering box and crossmember stuff all lined up. (We test fit the entire steering system under the truck to get optimal box placement. I still have room to move my axle forward a little if needed. We mounted the PS box higher and farther forward than most people do for clearance. We had to nibble some sheet metal to get it to work, but it's sweet. You'll see it in later pictures when I get them scanned.)
What's really funny is most of the time we were working on this we were discussing how we could get our hands on a cheap early toy to buggy. Would probably be more cost effective to just go and roll this one then we'd have an excuse. :D