I got a chance to run my ram asist on the trail this weekend, and was VERY happy witht he steering effort.
It worked awesome until a fitting started leaking and I tried to
(over)tighten it to stop it, and it broke(Brass is NOT good enough for
hydraulics it seems). I replaced that and was good again. Then the next day
the aluminum cap that faces forward cracked and I lost power steering again
(is it EVER hard to steer on the trail with no power - thanks to Shawn for
helping with the dual driver setup ;-)

I guess I am going to re-do the steering by tapping the cast iron instead
ofthe aluminum caps. Note to anyone else considering this mod: don't tap the caps. It is easier but not strong enough it seems.
I will also switch from brass fittings to something else. Then it should be great.

Phil

When you tapped the caps, did you add some extra material to beef up the cap or did you just drill and tap the cap? You should probably weld some 1/4" Al to the cap and then tap it.

You should also think about carrying some spare caps so you still have PS if something fails.

Nope, I did not weld it. It is just the stock YJ cap (about 1/3" thick).

I think rather than messing around with the welding, I will do it the right way like lakerat suggested.

Phil

Did you tap directly into the cap, or did you weld a piece on first? When I did mine, I measured the cap and it was only ~.22" thick, I was worried about it cracking being thin cast. I had a friend weld on a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum, then drilled and tapped it.

Also, what kind of fittings are you using? I thought about 3/8" pipe, but again, I was worrried about the stress in the cast. I ended up using a 3/8" (#6) SAE straight thread o-ring fitting, which uses a 9/16-18 thread.

The top cap (w/the adjuster) is ~1/2" thick, and better quality, so I wasn't too worried about it.

Pete

I used 3/8" NPT and tapped right to the stock thickness caps. No welding.

Phil

For those of you that "beefed up" the forward facing aluminum cap - what did you do? Just weld a 1/2" thick round plate on the end then tap that?
Could I make a 1/2" thick slice of 2" round aluminum stock and weld that on? Then tap it for npt (but not brass this time)?

Trying to save taking the box apart right now... or is that easy to do? I can't find much info on taking the saginaw box apart, did a search and found info on Toyoda boxes, but not saginaw...

Thanks,
Phil

Here's what i did to mine. Welding to cast sucks by the way.

forgot to mention that having the fitting lower on the cap lessens the pressure the line puts on it. Doesn't bind as much at all.

That some kind of aluminum fitting you welded on?
Didnt know you could get them in aluminum, only seen them in steel, brass and SS.

Think my weld a piece of 2" round to the steel and tap it idea would work?

Plus what is the point of the offset mounting? I don't understand how it reduces binding?

Thanks,
Phil

Yes it is an aluminum fitting, and if you want one i can get you one. The hydro lines are really stiff and can place downward and side pressure on the cap. Took that advise from a friend and so far so good. Welding a 1/4" thick piece of aluminum to the cap is how most people do it but i didn't like tapping the first hole so i went that route. Let me know if you need a fitting. I can send it out right away.

Thanks Brawler, but I need it back on the road by tommorow :D

Not enough time to get one to Canada.

I allready have 2" round Aluminum laying around the garage.

Also - for the hydraulic fitting stressing stuff. I am using npt fittings, and I put a 90 degree elbow on the hose and zip tied the hose to the cross member - shouldn't be any trouble with that.

So, you think that other than tapping (which is easy, I have done that alrready) you think welding 2" round al to the cap is good to go?


Phil

As long as you have a piece that is at least 1/4" thick. Also i would recommend getting some caps for the fitting holes in the box. In case you break something like a hose,fitting,or ram. Then all you have to do is cap off the box and you still have power steering. Good luck!

phil ...why fawk around do it the right way drill the ywo holes in the box.it is very easy to take apart and while your at it change out the seals ...its very straight forward.if you have to just mark everything i rebuild boxes at work all the time usually mercedes benz ones but still they are all the same principle...

Originally posted by Brawler
As long as you have a piece that is at least 1/4" thick. Also i would recommend getting some caps for the fitting holes in the box. In case you break something like a hose,fitting,or ram. Then all you have to do is cap off the box and you still have power steering. Good luck!

Allready got that. But this was the cap itself, so I was screwed for a trail fix. All I did was connect the high pressure to the low pressure so the pump could lubricate itself and drive with no power. Damn did that ever suck.

Phil

Originally posted by tj7
phil ...why fawk around do it the right way drill the ywo holes in the box.it is very easy to take apart and while your at it change out the seals ...its very straight forward.if you have to just mark everything i rebuild boxes at work all the time usually mercedes benz ones but still they are all the same principle...
If it is so easy, then why does everyone else say it is really hard?
I would like to do this, but I don't want to trash a good steering box either...

Phil

Also - if I did take it apart and drill/tap the cast steel/iron where is the best place to do it? Couldn't find any saginaw pics with a search.
The box is from a 95 YJ if that matters.

Thanks,
Phil