This buildup will be fairly slow until fall. My business is wide open in the summer. I plan to compete in the 08 east coast series.
I have a few pictures to post. I will try to figure out how to insert them into the thread over the next few days.

Buy a red star, or use a photobucket account to post pics.

Looking forward to your build. Comp-legal or modified?

I plan to compete on the east coast in the formula toy class. Thanks for the info. I will check on photobucket. red star seems reasonable enough also.

s192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/Here is a link at photobucket. Let the critic begin. I dont like the transfercase mount. I will probably order one from FROR. So far front suspension, hi steer, moved motor back 8", double cases installed, and planning for flat belly.

Fixed it for ya :flipoff2:
Looks like a good start! Your going to cut those factory body mounts off right? Also let's see some more pics of the bottom of that T-case mount. I'm thinking your going to nee a bit more beef.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00042.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00044.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00045.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00046.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00047.jpg

Thanks for getting the pictures on the sight azyota. Look closer the body mounts are gone. Yes there will be more mounts and cross members removed as needed. I think the crossmember will be OK when I add the FROR cross member to the rear.
Can you tell me how you got the pictures on the sight?

Cool. Glad the rig is taking shape!:D

Get red star. In "post" section there is a box called "manage attachments". Open that and hit the browse button. Find pics on your computer and open them in the subject box. They need to be fairly small. MS viewer has an automatic reduction called "small web" (I think?) that makes them just about the right size. I find it much easier this way than bothering to load them onto another site and linking but either way works. Once you get the red star you can search for "post pics" or something like that and get all kinds of tips. Also use the "test" section to see how it's gonna work first.

Keep the updates coming and let me know if there's anything you need to complete the rig.

I plan to compete on the east coast in the formula toy class. Thanks for the info. I will check on photobucket. red star seems reasonable enough also.

Duh. I'm a dumbass. You said that in your first post:

I plan to compete in the 08 east coast series

What was your donor rig?
Did you start with something mostly complete (trail rig), or start from scratch with a clean truck and a pile of parts?

To get pics on the site, go to your Photobucket account. ASSuming you're using IE: right-click on the image you want to link. Click Properties at the bottom. Copy the "http://...." string after the Address (URL): label.

Click Quick Post, then Click 'Go Advanced' (or click Quote) to get to the Reply to Thread screen...it has a bigger white box with emoticons, etc.

Click the little yellow square picture with a mountain on it. Paste your copied image link tag in the Java box that pops up. Click OK. It will embed a link to your image inside [ img ] link [ /img ] tags.

...or just embed your link inside [img ] link [ /img] tags.

Donor trucks;
85 toyota shortbed regular cab. Teenager attempted to put a timing chain in and gave up. I am using this frame. Maybe axles also.
84 Extra cab short bed. Driven by a 60+ year old man since day one. Until he allowed his grandson to borrow it. The grandson rolled it BIG TIME. There is not a straight panel on the truck. The engine runs great even though it has high milage. I will be using the engine/tranny out of the 84. I have a line on a hot 22R with 20R heads. This motor is estimated at 200+ horsepower??? Is this legal for the class? Mostly built from LC parts. I am not familiar with LC. The only problem is it was a dirt track car. I would guess the power delivery would be set up for high speed not crawling. Anyway the high milage motor will do for buildup and testing purposes.
My current trail/comp rig is an 88 samurai. Toyota axles / cage / lowered gears / stretched wheelbase / etc. It has been very competitive. I am currently in 3rd place out of about 10 in our local series. Maybe I can post some pics in the future.

mtbrjon,
Do you have rear spring perches available? I am starting the rear lift next. I want to inboard the rear springs to match the front in width. The all pro perches may work, but the outside frame tab is in the way.
Does any one have a good picture of the rear spring perch mounted to match the front spring width? Or any suggestions?

mtbrjon,
Do you have rear spring perches available? I am starting the rear lift next. I want to inboard the rear springs to match the front in width. The all pro perches may work, but the outside frame tab is in the way.
Does any one have a good picture of the rear spring perch mounted to match the front spring width? Or any suggestions?

We built our own. What are you planning on the shackle mount? Are you using the Johnny Joint shackle?

ooo man dont I wish I had money and time to built one of this badboys

I am still deciding on the mount. I want to inboard the springs to match the front spring width for sure. I cant decide on the how to mount the front perch or rear shackle. I plan to view the other builds on formula toy this weekend and see what I like.
Right now I am thinking a crossmember between the frame rails witn the perch mounted on it. I will need to work on the rear shackle mount more.

I am still deciding on the mount. I want to inboard the springs to match the front spring width for sure. I cant decide on the how to mount the front perch or rear shackle. I plan to view the other builds on formula toy this weekend and see what I like.
Right now I am thinking a crossmember between the frame rails witn the perch mounted on it. I will need to work on the rear shackle mount more.

x-member would work but will likely need a hoop for the driveshaft to pass.

I was talking about the front body mounts above your new front spring hanger.

Buy a red star and I'll show you how to post pics from your photobucket account :D

Yeah, they will probably go away. I havent done this before so it is easier to remove as you go rather than strip it completely and attempt to rebuild or replace it.
mtbrjon, I think I will be using the Johnny joints on the rear. Still deciding on the front perch mount.

yes another east coaster. That's 4 or so of us for next season. Good luck your build. What is your local comps your third in? Also I found it best to just strip all the factory mounts off and not be tempted to booty fab anything from them.

I am running my samurai in the mega 4X4 challenge at Gulches ORV park in South Carolina. I am 10 points short of second and about 20 short of first. This comp is super tight. Check it out at gulchesorvpark.com you will see my black sammy on the front page.

I got a little more work done this week. Rear spring perches inboarded and mounted. Rear johnny joints in the planning stage. Rear crossmember in process. I will try to post a few pics by weeks end. AZyota can you help me out again, by moving pictures onto this site? I will post here when they are on photobucket. Thanks a lot. Ordered T case mount from FROR. Front body mounts cut off.
Superpile where are you on the east coast?

Is there another way to get a red star. The email that was sent to me with a link to sign up for the red star will not work. I have tried several times.

I got a little more work done this week. Rear spring perches inboarded and mounted. Rear johnny joints in the planning stage. Rear crossmember in process. I will try to post a few pics by weeks end. AZyota can you help me out again, by moving pictures onto this site? I will post here when they are on photobucket. Thanks a lot. Ordered T case mount from FROR. Front body mounts cut off.
Superpile where are you on the east coast?

You can email me the pics and i'll post them.

Superpile is from Ashville, NC.

Like John was saying I'm in Asheville about a hour north of Greenville/Spartenburg. When is the next comp at Gulches? I looked at the pics and saw lots mud but not alot of other obstacles. Hopefully have mine running this week.

Just got back in town from Vacation. Gulches comp is last week in June. (Doublecheck site) Gulches is a bit muddy. During the summer there are plenty of dry obstacles. In the winter plan on getting muddy. Give it a try, it is a great place to wheel. Only a short drive from Greenville.
Thanks John I will shoot pictures to you as soon as I catch up from the week off.

Progress? Pictures?:D

Things have really slowed down on the F toy. I took on a few extra jobs. Should have some extra money in a few weeks, but no time now. Second, I tore one of the factory frame mounts for the transfer case mount in half on my samurai. I spent most of Sunday and Monday repairing that for the last comp at Gulches this weekend. I finished inboarding the rear springs on the f toy before vacation. Minus mounting the Johnny joints, rear cross member, and shackles. Did I say finished? Maybe I should have said started inboarding the rear springs.

Question??? Can I install a driveshaft disconnect to allow front digs at my local comps, and not use it for Ftoy comps and still be legal?

Question??? Can I install a driveshaft disconnect to allow front digs at my local comps, and not use it for Ftoy comps and still be legal?

yes

mtbrjon,
Is your email working? I have had several returned to me.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00052-1.jpg
Twin stick arrived and installed
With the twin stick and dual cases can I choose stock hi or stock low. Then combine stock hi with 4.7 and stock low with 4.7and use only 4.7 from the rear case?


http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00051-1.jpg
rear suspension complete. These shackle angles were set with 400 pounds of fertilizer in the driver seat area. Hopefully this will work out.


http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00050-1.jpg
Transfer case crossmember complete. Is anyone running the rear case mount only? With no assistance from a center case mount. Look at the earlier pictures in this post. I am thinking about leaving the first fabricated mount in place to assist the rear mount.

Front Range Off Road is a great company. Quality products and timely delivery. In addition they have built an F toy and have a lot of input for us. Give them a try next time you need something.

Thanks a lot FROR!!!!!!!

I'm running the same rear tcase mount and the dual tcase skid plate. I think the skid plate will tie everything together so I won't have any issues. I haven't got mine on the trail yet so some one else may have some better input.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00052-1.jpg
Twin stick arrived and installed
With the twin stick and dual cases can I choose stock hi or stock low. Then combine stock hi with 4.7 and stock low with 4.7and use only 4.7 from the rear case?


http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00051-1.jpg
rear suspension complete. These shackle angles were set with 400 pounds of fertilizer in the driver seat area. Hopefully this will work out.


http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00050-1.jpg
Transfer case crossmember complete. Is anyone running the rear case mount only? With no assistance from a center case mount. Look at the earlier pictures in this post. I am thinking about leaving the first fabricated mount in place to assist the rear mount.

I think you should add some gussets to both of those mounts as they don't look beefy enough to me. Think of how much torque that rear mount and the tranny mount will take in low/low. My .02 .

Thanks for the input. Any suggestions on where to gusset the tube crossmember. I just hate the front one. I think I will start over with that one.

Thanks for the input. Any suggestions on where to gusset the tube crossmember. I just hate the front one. I think I will start over with that one.

Anytime we attach to a Toyota frame we use a scab plate that's at least 2 times the surface area of the attaching part. The stock frame is thin and somewhat weak metal. If you have only welded the rear x-case mount along the one edge i'd make some sort of gusset coming forward to at least wrap the cross tube a little as it won't have much strength in that direction. I can't tell how your front x-member at the trans is built. I shaved a section out of a piece of 2.5" square and attached my original trans mount into it so half of the 2.5" is still intact if that makes sence.

I think I understand. You are concerned about front to rear movement.
No scab plate at this time. I may go back in to work on that.
At this point I am going to try and improve the front mount. I will make sure to use scab plates there. I looked at your design for the front mount last night. Very trick. I am going to pull the rear shaft from my scrap truck. It is a two piece. did you cut down a two piece for your front shaft set up?

I think I understand. You are concerned about front to rear movement.
No scab plate at this time. I may go back in to work on that.
At this point I am going to try and improve the front mount. I will make sure to use scab plates there. I looked at your design for the front mount last night. Very trick. I am going to pull the rear shaft from my scrap truck. It is a two piece. did you cut down a two piece for your front shaft set up?

Actually that was my plan but I haven't found 1 yet. I built my front shaft from some old Ford carrier bearing that I found behind the shop and parts of the driveshaft that it came from. I'm still looking for a 2 piece driveshaft to rob the parts to build a nice front shaft. No breakage there yet though.

Im back. Just finished 7 weeks of total H*LL completing two large projects. With the profits from these projects I have ordered and received a set of TG creeper locks. I also have a set of Maxxis Trepadors on order. Should be here this week. I have cut several pieces to finish up my transfer case mounting and two piece front drive shaft. I will try to button all this up and post some pics late week.
Went to Harlan, KY with my samurai this past weekend. We ran the lower and middle rock garden and started lower damnation. Tthings were going good until I broke a trans mount, then a xcase mount, then a birfield or hub. It was an awesome day. I ran the sammy two weeks earlier in Tellico. At this point Harlan makes Tellico seem like a Sunday afternoon drive. Tellico has really been cleanup up. Lotsof backfill and rock moving since my last trip. It will probably be better after it is trashed for a few weeks.

Awesome on your parts, Time to finish that sucker up. You liked harlan eh? Come back Oct 19-21st for the fall crawl.

Twin stick arrived and installed
With the twin stick and dual cases can I choose stock hi or stock low. Then combine stock hi with 4.7 and stock low with 4.7and use only 4.7 from the rear case?

I don't think anyone answered this question from this summer. Yes.

(assuming your 4.7's are in the rear case)

Right rear stick is 2wd-4wd
Front stick back, left rear stick back gives you 1:1
Front stick forward, left rear stick back gives you 2.28:1 (stock hi, stock lo)
Front stick back, left rear stick forward gives you 4.7:1 (stock hi with 4.7... use only 4.7 from the rear case)
Front stick forward, left rear stick forward gives you 10.7:1 (stock lo with 4.7)

Thanks for the input MT4runner. How do you arrive at 10.7:1? I was thinking 4.7+2.28=6.98.
Harlan was awesome!!!! If I can complete The Formula I will be there. I would want to arrive early to run trails before the crowds arrive. I like to wheel! Not sit in traffic jammed trails.

How do you arrive at 10.7:1? I was thinking 4.7+2.28=6.98.

That's the beauty of it:

4.7 x 2.28=10.7!!!

:smokin:keep on building you have a good start!!!!!!!!:smokin: heres a pic of what mine looks like..

Looks great, how does it perform? Did you make it up that climb? My sammy would look like a turtle on its lid if I tried that.
Thanks, MT4runner! I understand now.

that particular line is a mother f---er if your rig won't flex you get a very bumpy ride down to the bottom!!!!! after i redo my suspension this winter i'll be giving it a try..:laughing: keep us all posed on your build!!!! Bill W./stealthrunner/ f-toy #56

More progress?
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00054.jpg
Finished both crossmembers and the driveshaft center support
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00055.jpg
I made these for some additional rotational support for the rear of the case. Does anyone think these are neccessary? I need to grind a little more so they will fit better. But, I am not sure I need them. I am also concerned about them messing with seat placement. FROR are you out there?
Started skid plate today. Here are a few early pictures.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00056.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00057.jpg
:):eek:

Wow you flopped your F-TOY in your garage:laughing:

Your passenger seat wont fit if you add those additional supports. Also it looks like your driver seat wont fit well either with those. It seems like most people that run a flat belly have to cut away some of their crossmember support, I know I did.

Most people cut their tcase support on the passenger side to run parellel with the transfer case. Anything above that and you will have to raise your seat a lot. Currently even with my tcase support being cut I think the passenger seat will be about 2" higher then the driver.

OK so the add on supports will not go on. I agree this will make the seats super tough to mount.
Does anyone have an excellent plan for installing the floor support? I am thinking 3/4 or 1/2 square tubing welded to the side of the frame and running along the transmission and transfer case.
Have you seen any posts that did a really good job. mtbrjohn looks good and is similar to what I am trying to achieve.

OK so the add on supports will not go on. I agree this will make the seats super tough to mount.
Does anyone have an excellent plan for installing the floor support? I am thinking 3/4 or 1/2 square tubing welded to the side of the frame and running along the transmission and transfer case.
Have you seen any posts that did a really good job. mtbrjohn looks good and is similar to what I am trying to achieve.

The bottom of the tcase support I can see, the rest I wouldnt do.

As for seat mount support, ours is supported off the skid structure, and floor is dzus'd in.

What is dzus'd

Dzus fasteners.

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/dzus.htm

Dzus' are cool but work better in dry climates as they don't do as well with mud. I've seen lots of guys use Dzus' on side panels as well but my panels get so rashed up I don't think they would last long. I've used some Dzus' in low contact areas and where little mud is likely to collect. Look at Mike's "Ultimate 4 seater" thread as a guide for your floor support. Most everyone has done something similar. We like the 1" square for this stuff.

OK so the add on supports will not go on. I agree this will make the seats super tough to mount.
Does anyone have an excellent plan for installing the floor support? I am thinking 3/4 or 1/2 square tubing welded to the side of the frame and running along the transmission and transfer case.
Have you seen any posts that did a really good job. mtbrjohn looks good and is similar to what I am trying to achieve.

Fore the lazy.

Thanks for all the input. Dzus probably wont work for me. I agree with John. Too muddy on the east coast.
Floor substructure looks very easy. I am really thinking 3/4 sq tubing. Save some space and some weight. I will need to get a piece of each and do some very crude strength testing. Maybe attempt to drive a piece of equipment over both and see when each bends.
What metal for the floor? 1/8 or 3/16 or less? And did you bolt the seats into the 1" sq tube or directly to floor?
I will try to find the ultimate 4 seater tonight.

Somebody (I can't remember who) used a really cool double sheer tab with a clevis pin for easy seat removal. I plan to rework mine this winter with multiple mounting positions so my daughter can drive. Mount the seats and belts to the substructure or the frame NOT THE FLOOR! The 3/4" won't be strong enough in my opinion. I'm using 1/8" alum tread plate but you could go a little thinner.

The double shear with pins sounds great. Would allow removal of a seat during comps. If rules allow removal of passenger seat. I think I agree with you on the 3/4 square. I did some additional measuring tonight. There should be room for exhaust with 1" square. That was my major concern. I am already rebuilding the rear transfer case mount for exhaust clearence. Hopefully more pics this week.
Skid plate question? Is there a home shop trick to bending up the front and rear. (no torch only plasma) Is it really neccessary to bens up the ends. My 3/16 seems very stiff already, and I see minimal likelihood of the skid hanging front or rear.

Where can I find high pinion differentials? What vehicle year range were they offered in? Will they fit in my 84 or 85 axles?

Where can I find high pinion differentials? What vehicle year range were they offered in? Will they fit in my 84 or 85 axles?

'91-'97 FJ/FZJ80 (Land Cruiser) front axles. You can get them with or without the e-locker. The ones without the e-locker will bolt right into the 84-85 axles, the ones with the e-locker require a few mods to bolt in. There are write-ups on the 'net on what all needs to be done.

Ary

We're at .060 alum for firewall and floor. 3/16 plate for belly.

Double-shear seat & seatbelt tabs.
I got the tabs from A&A Mfg., and made the pins out of grade-8 bolts. :)

Very slick!!!

Anyone running afront drive shaft support? Can you give me a rough measurement on the length of the shaft, or the distance the shackle for the front leaf spring is from the flange at driveshaft center support. I will try to post pics tonight. I think my front driveshaft angle is to severe. Found some high pinions. They might work? My flange is about 3" from the shackle.

The double shear with pins sounds great. Would allow removal of a seat during comps. If rules allow removal of passenger seat. I think I agree with you on the 3/4 square. I did some additional measuring tonight. There should be room for exhaust with 1" square. That was my major concern. I am already rebuilding the rear transfer case mount for exhaust clearence. Hopefully more pics this week.
Skid plate question? Is there a home shop trick to bending up the front and rear. (no torch only plasma) Is it really neccessary to bens up the ends. My 3/16 seems very stiff already, and I see minimal likelihood of the skid hanging front or rear.

I don't think it's necessary to bend the skid ends. I did mine because I got the material from a buddy that works at a big metal fab shop and it took him like 2 minutes to do the bends.

Anyone running afront drive shaft support? Can you give me a rough measurement on the length of the shaft, or the distance the shackle for the front leaf spring is from the flange at driveshaft center support. I will try to post pics tonight. I think my front driveshaft angle is to severe. Found some high pinions. They might work? My flange is about 3" from the shackle.

I'll have my rig here tomorrow and I can make some measurements and take pics.

Thanks in advance for the measurements and pics. I may perform a knuckle rotation or purchase a high pinion to overcome the possible u joint angle problem. If it is a problem. I am going to my shop now I will post pics later.

I am wondering if these driveshaft angles will work?
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00059.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00060.jpg
Maybe that is not much help. Here is an overhead shot of the t case pinion and diff pinion
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00058.jpg
Does that help?
If not maybe there is a mathmatician or engineer who can help us find the angle with the following measurements.
center of diff flange is 14" off floor
center of tcase flange is 26" off floor
The measurment in a straight LEVEL line from flange to flange is 22"
The measurement at an angle is 23.5" (this measurement follows the blue tape in the picture.

idk if you are able to cut and turn the axle?

Why don't you shorten up the carrier driveline or just run one driveling in the front?

Yep what desert toy said, i just have a single shaft in the front...but make sure that you get thick wall tube when you make it or you'll bend it first time you hit a rock with it...:D

You can turn that rear pinion way up to help.

I'm only running the 2 piece front shaft because with my auto trans, adapters and duals the driveline is very long and the front shaft would hang down to much if it were 1 piece.

Why don't you shorten up the carrier driveline or just run one driveling in the front?

I like the idea of minimal driveshaft exposed to the rocks. I can shorten the carrier or run a single driveshaft.
But, does the angle seem to steep. Or should I go for it and build a single if it is to steep. I have 5-6 toy driveshafts.

You can turn that rear pinion way up to help.

I'm only running the 2 piece front shaft because with my auto trans, adapters and duals the driveline is very long and the front shaft would hang down to much if it were 1 piece.

Turn the front pinion up? This typically messes up the caster and makes for terrible street and trail manners. I really dont want to drive on the street. But, some of the campgrounds at tellico, windrock, and possibly harlan require a small amount of public road travel to access the trail head.
I have a spare toyota with the automatic. I dont know the length of the adapter for auto trans to "gear to gear" transfer case but the lenghts otherwise seem to be the same.
Does the angle for the front shaft seem to steep? Or should I try it?
Time or Budget allowing I would be willing to get a high pinion or rotate the knuckles to keep the shafts high.

Why don't you shorten up the carrier driveline or just run one driveling in the front?

I am really trying to build a slick comp rig. I feel that if I can keep the drivetrain high there will be less exposure to damage and less exposure to hanging the rig up.
Time or Budget allowing I would be willing to get a high pinion or rotate the knuckles to keep the shafts high.

Got the new wheels and tires mounted and installed check it out:D:D:D
SUPER BLING
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00066.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00070.jpg
Also finished the skid plate and center driveshaft support. The center shaft had to be shortened. The angle was so bad you could not mate the flanges together.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00068.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00069.jpg
Next Week is the engine install. I read about a thread on how to remove all the misc pollution control and such from the engine. Does anyone know where that info is?

Damn those rims blind me, nice!

I don't remember the exact thread, but search "EGR removal" in the toy truck section and it should pull it up.

Hey man, thanks for posting this pic:
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00068.jpg

I've been on the road for 3 days, and trying to visualize how my drivetrain is going to fit in my frame/chassis. Just ordered my chassis, today...#086 :smokin: Glad to know that the stock carrier driveline is too long, I'll just plan now to shorten mine.

What thickness steel are you using for your skidplate?

Flat belly, I ASSume? How far is your chassis above the frame? How tall are you?

Looking good! Keep up the work. I ordered my chassis this week from mtbrjon, should have it next weekend or the following week, FToy #518.

Chassis is not mounted yet. I feel it will be about 2" higher than the frame rails. Waiting on seats to better fit in floor and chassis height. I am 6'2".
Skidplate is 3/16 thick. Almost completely flat belly. My lack of fab skills does have the center of the skid plate about 3/16 below the frame rail. Possible grinding of the mounts for the crossmembers to fix. probably not a problem

You are going to need one of these. The stockers dont last to long.

Mike, is this a risk to the passenger's butt?
What fails? The stamped steel bearing mount?

I am pulling the engine and trans out of my donor vehicle this week. Anyone know of a good product to clean the combo of old grease, oil etc.
I would like for it to look similar to my T case from Marlin.

Soak with kerosene for a few days, clean off with pressure washer.

Kerosene? Any problems with rubber seals? I can probably spray and soak spray and soak the spray soak again. Then power wash.

Actually, I saw OOP's recommend it on the Toy Truck and 4Runner forum. But kerosene is in most aerosol engine cleaners/degreasers, so I'm 99% sure it's OK.

10-4

You are going to need one of these. The stockers dont last to long.

Ok I got one of those but I have yet to find the parts to make it work? What driveshaft do I need to look for? What rig would it be in? Dealer is NFG on this either.

Dealers are definitely out of the loop!!!!!:laughing::shaking:

Why would the Toyota unit be a weak link?

Why would the Toyota unit be a weak link?

I think it's rubber mounted like the F@#D unit that i'm using now. I have a little too much front driveshaft rattle for high speed driving so i'm a little anxious to build a more solid front shaft and mounting system. Maybe scrap the square shaft and built a DOM round with long spline. Since i've added the HP front 3rd the front shaft doesn't get near the grind time it once did.

I would just give this a try. Grab a spare from the J-yard and keep it with you out on the run. I don't know how they fail, but I plan on running the same setup you have when I redo my drivelines.
I haven't seen what parts make the Hendrix unit work.
Nice work! This thing is looking good, you will definately love having a flat belly.

There are no special parts to make the hendrix one work, they are all right there. Stock toy pieces. You just cut all that crap off till you get to the bearing, it fits into the hendrix piece

There are no special parts to make the hendrix one work, they are all right there. Stock toy pieces. You just cut all that crap off till you get to the bearing, it fits into the hendrix piece

I can't find a driveshaft with a bearing in it! Excab, LWB? x, y, z year?

Xtracab. I've seen them in 84-88 and 89-95 xtracabs.

Xtracab. I've seen them in 84-88 and 89-95 xtracabs.

Thanks. That should be no problem ?! :homer: Think i'll try carparts.com somewhere in the country there should be at least one.

I would just give this a try. Grab a spare from the J-yard and keep it with you out on the run. I don't know how they fail, but I plan on running the same setup you have when I redo my drivelines.
I haven't seen what parts make the Hendrix unit work.
Nice work! This thing is looking good, you will definately love having a flat belly.

This will definitley work. I 've run mine all season and it doesn't look as good as yours.


BTW-My flatbelly,mounts,and trans/carrier bearing mount is patended so you'll be hearing from my lawyer. :D:D Just playin. I can't wait to see another East coaster runnin around. Your work looks very good but you need to get this rig done!

Is there an event coming up before the end of the year that you think you could make in this rig (trail ride or whatever)? I'd like to try to get together a few Ftoys before next year if possible.

Thanks. That should be no problem ?! :homer: Think i'll try carparts.com somewhere in the country there should be at least one.

If I run into one, I'll let you know. The upper shaft would only be about $15 to ship.

This will definitley work. I 've run mine all season and it doesn't look as good as yours.


BTW-My flatbelly,mounts,and trans/carrier bearing mount is patended so you'll be hearing from my lawyer. :D:D Just playin. I can't wait to see another East coaster runnin around. Your work looks very good but you need to get this rig done!

Is there an event coming up before the end of the year that you think you could make in this rig (trail ride or whatever)? I'd like to try to get together a few Ftoys before next year if possible.
I may compete against oyu in Spartanburg. I will be in my Samurai if so.
I am putting the motor and tranny in this week. Tommorrow I will order propane and seats. There may be a slight slow down waiting on the brown santa. I am going to use this time to clean the engine and transmission plus get my samurai rolling again. My goal is 3-5 weeks and on the trail.
AQs soon as it is ready I will be testing at Gulches in Laurens, SC and behind my house. Thats right testing grounds in the backyard. (NICE) After that it is on to Wind Rock, TN / Tellico, TN and Harlan, KY. When the bugs are worked out I will meet you anywhere within 10 hrs drive of Chapin, SC.

mtbrjohn
Sorry about the copy on the drivetrain items. But, when you dont know what you are doing you copy the best thing you can find to the best of your ability.
THATS THE AMERICAN WAY!
Your design and workmanship is excellent!!

Any updates?

What tires are you gonna run? Rig looks good.

What tires are you gonna run? Rig looks good.

Roll back a few pages and you will see my 37" Maxxis Trepador on creeper locks.

Can I lose the laod sensing break valve. My plan is to bypass the load sensing brake valve under the bed. Is this OK? I am going to delete the return line to the front brakes and tie the mainline direcctly to the rear axle.

Can I lose the laod sensing break valve. My plan is to bypass the load sensing brake valve under the bed. Is this OK? I am going to delete the return line to the front brakes and tie the mainline direcctly to the rear axle.

I put a proportioning valve in. It's like $33 at speedway. Don't buy the Wilowood one. (I pulled the speedway sticker off mine and it says Wilowood:D) I only run one line to the rear.

Kind a blurry pic but you get the idea

Do I really need the proportioning valve?

no

Do I really need the proportioning valve?

You don't really need it, but it helps to distribute braking forces.

The proportioning valve reduces the pressure to the rear brakes. Regardless of what type of brakes a truck has, the rear brakes require less force than the front brakes.

The amount of brake force that can be applied to a wheel without locking it depends on the amount of weight on the wheel. More weight means more brake force can be applied. If you have ever slammed on your brakes, you know that an abrupt stop makes your truck lean forward. The front gets lower and the back gets higher. This is because a lot of weight is transferred to the front of the truck when you stop. Also, most trucks have more weight over the front wheels to start with because that is where the engine is located.

If equal braking force were applied at all four wheels during a stop, the rear wheels would lock up before the front wheels. The proportioning valve only lets a certain portion of the pressure through to the rear wheels so that the front wheels apply more braking force. If the proportioning valve were set to 70 percent and the brake pressure were 1,000 pounds per square inch (psi) for the front brakes, the rear brakes would get 700 psi

I hope this information helps you out

Thanks for the heads up.
I feel the valve will not be neccessary for off road purposes.

updates???

Huge progress made over the weekend. I will try to post some pics this week.

Question: How hardcore are the officials during the tech inspection before comps. My seats can be set to clear my head with a helmet by 3" or more to the closest bar. (basically seats set 1.5" above the frame) But, I like the position when my head is 2" from the bar.
2" allows me a better view over the hood, and clears the trans and trans case better. (seats basically 3" over the frame

I can sit very comfortable in the seats at the higher seat mounting position and clear the cage by 3". If I slouch down and have the small of my back 1-2" from the back of the seat.
If I press the small of my back into the seat back and sit slouched I get 2.25" at best.

In other words will the officials allow me to sit with the small of my back off the back of the seat and the harness on to pass tech inspection?

Working on seat placemnent
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00071.jpg
Subfloor / seat placement / pedals in place
Take a look in this picture. When the shifter is in first and I shift into second the shifter moves the transfer case lever. Is this common or did I do something wrong?
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00072.jpg
Three more pictures of pedals
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00074.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00073.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00075.jpg

Exhaust complete.
A little trick for you builders. I wanted to build my own exhaust to avoid the problems I have seen with other installs by local shops. I am not set up to bend exhaust pipe, and I did not want to weld 10-15 pieces together to make the system. My solution: build it out of PVC. 1.5" pvc is almost the exact size of the stock toyota pipe. You can build it using the fittings and drop it off and have it bent. I had mine back in one hour and it cost me $60. The pieces and parts from Advance/ auto zone were at least this much. The only negative was the price of that little glasspack. ($65) I thought that was a little high and will probably be very loud.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00076.jpg

Love the seats and your going to love that glass pack. I slipped one on to see what it sounded like and then took it off. Sounds pretty loud when its in a buggy. Looking good. Good idea on the exhaust work. Never thought about PVC.

Started mounting the frame to the chassis today. I am planning on four mounts.

Look back in the pictures. My gear shifter is hitting the transfer case shifter as I shift into second. Did I do something wrong or is this common?

My gear shifter is hitting the transfer case shifter as I shift into second. Did I do something wrong or is this common?

If it is hitting with the t-case in low then yes that is pretty common. You might look into a dog legged shifter from Marlin or modify your own.

I had to bend mine too. I'd say it's common.

It is shifting from the tcase when I go from first to second.
I think this is the stock configuration what changed. The shifter and tcase shifter have not changed.

More progress. My goal is to hear it run Wednesday. If my steering wheel and disconnect arrive I will drive it next week.
most of this work was slow and boring so here a re a few pictures
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00077.jpg
Propane tank and battery mounted. Battery cables and brakes plumbed to rear.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00078.jpg
Seats and floors complete
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00079.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00080.jpg
Check out the brake and clutch plumbing. Does it look familiar?

Lookin good. Youre really rockin on this project. I wish mine was as far along as yours.:D

Looks great so far. The PVC idea was a good one. You probaly need to think about how to add another propane tank though. Typically, people are not happy with how long only one tank lasts.

Maybe this has been covered but it looks like your rear side frame rails are a little short. Maybe it's just the pic.

Lengthen them with Bondo?



:laughing:

Your seats are way far back. I have not seen anyones seats behing the b pillar so far. Your pedals are also back pretty far too.

I guess it makes for better weight distribution with you sitting farther back and its also easier to clearance things, but you will have way less visibility sitting that far back.

I am just thinking out loud

Your seats are way far back. I have not seen anyones seats behing the b pillar so far. Your pedals are also back pretty far too.

I guess it makes for better weight distribution with you sitting farther back and its also easier to clearance things, but you will have way less visibility sitting that far back.

I am just thinking out loud

I'm thinking it will also be a VERY long reach to the trans shifter.

The tranny shifter could be bent back, but the front case shifter would also have to be bent quite a bit.

Your seats are way far back. I have not seen anyones seats behing the b pillar so far. Your pedals are also back pretty far too.

I guess it makes for better weight distribution with you sitting farther back and its also easier to clearance things, but you will have way less visibility sitting that far back.

I am just thinking out loud

yours is that way too. ours maybe a little more forward but not much. Hope it doesn't cause to big of a problem? We was thinking the weight and the ride? maybe it will screw us
As for reaching the trans, its fine, even when tight against the seat. As long as you aren't short

The back rest of my seats are right before the b pillar. The only other ftoy I have seen in person is sam and bernies #42 and their seat is even further forward, but sam is shorter than I am. I really like how in #42 I have even more of a view then what is on mine. I think vision will be the biggest downfall from having your seat that far back.

Also something you should consider is YOUR safety. If you are sitting in the seat and your head is right next to the b pillar, WATCH OUT, you might hit your head hard again the B pillar.

Although I am only looking at pictures so I could be wrong but just double check things for your safety.

The shift levers can always be bent however you like

Maybe this has been covered but it looks like your rear side frame rails are a little short. Maybe it's just the pic.

Do you mean frame to chassis at the rear wheel?

As far as sitting back too far. Only time will tell. It feels very comfortable now. I will need to drive it some and see how I like it. My tabs will allow me to move the seat forward about 1 inch. Anymore will require additioanl tabs. Really no problem to add more tabs.
My size helps me a lot with the seat placement. 6'2" and 250lbs.
Transmission shifter is a stretch for first gear. I can sit comfortably and my fingers just wrap over the top of the shifter. some slight bending and I think it will work good.

I am searching for a steering install. I am at a loss at this point anyone got any pointers or pictures?

Do you mean frame to chassis at the rear wheel?

As far as sitting back too far. Only time will tell. It feels very comfortable now. I will need to drive it some and see how I like it. My tabs will allow me to move the seat forward about 1 inch. Anymore will require additioanl tabs. Really no problem to add more tabs.
My size helps me a lot with the seat placement. 6'2" and 250lbs.
Transmission shifter is a stretch for first gear. I can sit comfortably and my fingers just wrap over the top of the shifter. some slight bending and I think it will work good.

I mean it looks like where you tapered the corners has the outside edge of the frame rail not even with the rearmost chassis bar. Those 2 points have to be even or the frame rail has to be longer but cannot be shorter. So from the rearmost chassis bar a vertical line down should be even with the framerail.

Wes,

The build is looking good. Keep it up.


Hunter

I mean it looks like where you tapered the corners has the outside edge of the frame rail not even with the rearmost chassis bar. Those 2 points have to be even or the frame rail has to be longer but cannot be shorter. So from the rearmost chassis bar a vertical line down should be even with the framerail.

I think it is the picture.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00085.jpg
This really doesnt help much. The bubble is centered in the level, the chassis is level, and that square is square. The camera is not giving an accurate representation.

Steering is complete.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00086.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00083.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00084.jpg

Here is my old rig. Some parts are being transferred over. This thing is looking rough. Still is and has always been an excellent rig.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00082.jpg

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00087.jpg
Can I trust these to mount my power steering fluid cooler to the radiator?
I have plans to build a bracket. But, It would be nice to use these. Very clean and easy to install. Has anyone tried to use the trans cooler at the bottom of the radiator to cool pwr steering fluid. I would think it would be better than the small oil cooler from the trail gear kit. (I am not Knocking Trail-Gear. these guys have been awesome during this entire build)

A stand-alone cooler will be much more efficient at cooling the power steering fluid than the trans cooler in the bottom of the radiator. That hot coolant won't do much for cooling P/S fluid. :)

Maybe it's just the pic, but I don't see any bracing of the vertical tube that holds the steering shaft.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00083.jpg

No vertical bracing. I really did not think this was a high stress area. Considering there is only a shaft spinning on the heim. I will consider installing additional bracing. Why do you think it is needed?

Waht about the PS cooler strap mounts? Are they strong enough for off road.

We use the plastic to mount our electric fan, but the shroud fits tight on the front of the radiator. For a cooler I would make a bracket

No vertical bracing. I really did not think this was a high stress area. Considering there is only a shaft spinning on the heim. I will consider installing additional bracing. Why do you think it is needed?

On something as important as steering I like it mounted SOLID.
I think a piece of square tube welded horizontally between the
vertical tube and the square tube on the firewall.

I think it is the picture.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00085.jpg
This really doesnt help much. The bubble is centered in the level, the chassis is level, and that square is square. The camera is not giving an accurate representation.

The outside edge where you have it tapered makes it not legal. This has been covered before. Personally I don't see this as a huge advantage but is does violate the rules.

I use the plastic ziptie type things with a pad inbetween my ps cooler and radiator. They have held up just fine. If anything, i would make thicker pads to get 1/2 inch or so between theme for more air flow and so mud couldnt pack between them.

I use the plastic ziptie type things with a pad inbetween my ps cooler and radiator. They have held up just fine. If anything, i would make thicker pads to get 1/2 inch or so between theme for more air flow and so mud couldnt pack between them.

Thanks. I may try them and keep an eye on them. The Trail Gear kit came withpads to space the cooler 1/2" or so off the radiator.

The outside edge where you have it tapered makes it not legal. This has been covered before. Personally I don't see this as a huge advantage but is does violate the rules.

I will look at the rules and work on it later.

Just checked the f toy website. I could not find a rule mentioning tapering the rear. Let me know where your info is coming from. Hopefully since the taper amounts to lees than 1/8 inch it will be OK.
The advantage would be obstacle specific. Very rarely if ever would it play in.

The rules are written to show you what IS allowed, not what isn't allowed. So, if you don't see it as being allowed, then you are to assume that it is not allowed. :)

The back rest of my seats are right before the b pillar. The only other ftoy I have seen in person is sam and bernies #42 and their seat is even further forward, but sam is shorter than I am. I really like how in #42 I have even more of a view then what is on mine. I think vision will be the biggest downfall from having your seat that far back.

Also something you should consider is YOUR safety. If you are sitting in the seat and your head is right next to the b pillar, WATCH OUT, you might hit your head hard again the B pillar.

Although I am only looking at pictures so I could be wrong but just double check things for your safety.

The shift levers can always be bent however you like

My front seats are slightly forward of the rear pillar. But I am short so I have room. Also I am installing my brakes, pedals and steering about 8" farther forward.

Heard it run for the first time yesterday. I am buttoning up a few items and should hit the trails next week.

Remaining items
Lockers (welded for now)
Winch (in shop)
Line lock (emergency brake??)
High pinion front diff
panels and roof
whatever breaks

Remaining Budget
Very little until January

Heard it run for the first time yesterday. I am buttoning up a few items and should hit the trails next week.

Remaining items
Lockers (welded for now)
Winch (in shop)
Line lock (emergency brake??)
High pinion front diff
panels and roof
whatever breaks

Remaining Budget
Very little until January

Congrats, tkae some pics :D:smokin:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00088.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00089.jpg
Trail gear PWR sterring installed
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00091.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00092.jpg
Propane complete and truck running
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00093.jpg
Guages in process. Not sure if I like the location. Will work for now.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00094.jpg
Driveshafts complete. 2 3/4 .156 wall DOM worked perfect for the trail gear long spline and the factory ujoint assembly
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00095.jpg
Not the best picture. Ram assist installed and Front driveshaft installed

A couple of things. First, you really need to consider tying the V-bars in the window opening down to the frame. Also, you need to consider trussing the front of the frame and hood halo area. Read this thread http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=500466

One other thing, what material is your steering shaft made out of? Ask hobie how hard it is too drive with a bent steering shaft.

I swear this is the last thing. The rules state that the frame cannot be any shorter than the chassis. If you 45 deg. the corners, you are cutting off the outside of the frame, thus making it shorter than the chassis.
Don't feel bad, Marlin's rig was the same way. That's the first thing I had to fix when I got it.

Your build is coming along nice though.

I will work on tying in the v bars. Can you better explain or show me the trussing areas?

Steering shaft is 3/4 rod. I am a little concerned about it. What is the excepted standard?

The frame was not cut at a 45. The frame was not cut off at all. If I remember correctly. The chassis seemed to be about 1/8 inch longer than the frame. That is a small piece of steel filling a hole. I just liked the looks of it at an angle. Bottom line it may not be legal. I will consider squaring it off in the future. I would like to get the rear crossmember from Hendricks for a little added bling.

My current goal is to test run in December/January. Fix what breaks or I dont Like. Then Tweak in some of these issues in February.

Thanks for your input!!!!!!

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00093.jpg

That's gotta be a GREAT feeling to see the tach rise above zero on its own. Attaboy! Be patient and finish the little details, and get some poser shots, then some real wheelin' shots!!

BTW, you stole my steering wheel, asshole! :mad3:




:flipoff2:

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00093.jpg

BTW, you stole my steering wheel, asshole! :mad3:




:flipoff2:
I've had that steering wheel since my junk first wheeled years ago :flipoff2:

Sorry about the steering whell theft.:laughing:
Actually it was the cheapest wheel in the summit catalog with three bolt holes.

I got mine from one of my donor rigs..just had to buy the cheapie hex coupler. I know...others said the hex disconnect rattles. Maybe it's my ghetto antitheft device! :laughing:

A couple of things. First, you really need to consider tying the V-bars in the window opening down to the frame. Also, you need to consider trussing the front of the frame and hood halo area. Read this thread http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=500466

One other thing, what material is your steering shaft made out of? Ask hobie how hard it is too drive with a bent steering shaft.

I swear this is the last thing. The rules state that the frame cannot be any shorter than the chassis. If you 45 deg. the corners, you are cutting off the outside of the frame, thus making it shorter than the chassis.
Don't feel bad, Marlin's rig was the same way. That's the first thing I had to fix when I got it.

Your build is coming along nice though.
What type of rollover or impact caused that much damage? End ovre end, multiple side rolls????

For the front driveshaft get a 1 1/2" pillar block bearing and ti will slide right on the Toy shaft. Everything looks good. I have a Formula Toy copy chassis I am getting ready to start on. Hope I can come up with some good iedas on it. I will be watching the Formula comps and might have to buy a real chassis and compete.

Toddy

What type of rollover or impact caused that much damage? End ovre end, multiple side rolls????

I think what actually bent it was, I was coming off foreward from a real steep verticle. It was real tippy so as soon as the front tires hit the bottom, I gassed it. About that time the front spring hangers caught a huge rock that was only sticking out of the ground 8 or 10 inches and stopped me cold. It was a bone jarring impact.
I didn't notice the damage until after the next course. I dropped off of this insane verticle real slow, when the front tires touched the ground I gassed it but I had forgot to turn the front locker on so I rolled over foreward and to the drivers side. This didn't help the situation but I think the previous course actually did the damage.

I will work on tying in the v bars. Can you better explain or show me the trussing areas?

Steering shaft is 3/4 rod. I am a little concerned about it. What is the excepted standard?

The frame was not cut at a 45. The frame was not cut off at all. If I remember correctly. The chassis seemed to be about 1/8 inch longer than the frame. That is a small piece of steel filling a hole. I just liked the looks of it at an angle. Bottom line it may not be legal. I will consider squaring it off in the future. I would like to get the rear crossmember from Hendricks for a little added bling.

My current goal is to test run in December/January. Fix what breaks or I dont Like. Then Tweak in some of these issues in February.

Thanks for your input!!!!!!
Deserttoy can you give your expertise on these items.

Poser Pics Coming Soon!

For the front driveshaft get a 1 1/2" pillar block bearing and ti will slide right on the Toy shaft. Everything looks good. I have a Formula Toy copy chassis I am getting ready to start on. Hope I can come up with some good iedas on it. I will be watching the Formula comps and might have to buy a real chassis and compete.

Toddy

If your rig is close to ftoy specs bring it out to a comp. You can run but you won't get points.

Poser Pics Coming Soon!

First drive!! Good times.:D:D:D Let's see the pics.

First drive!! Good times.:D:D:D Let's see the pics.

RIG IS AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!11
UNABLE TO TAKE PICS DURING TODAYS OUTING. IW ILL GET SOME THIS WEEK.
I AM VERY CLOSE TO TOTALLY COMP READY. ONLY PROBLEM AT THIS POINT IS THE REAR CORNERS. I NEED TO GET A LITTLE CLARIFICATION.
THE FRAME IS NOT SHORTER. I MAY JUST SCAB IN SOME METAL TO SOLVE IT BEFORE THE COMPS.

Way cool!!!! :beer:

I MAY JUST SCAB IN SOME METAL TO SOLVE IT BEFORE THE COMPS.

that's what I'd do.

Best pic I had for clarity on the frame rail. The ends in a horizontal or vertical cannot be cut off. So that measured on any side (top bottom, either side) the frame rail will be at least length of chassis. The xmember is ok to be angled.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=298856&stc=1&d=1176699260

Couple of changes will need to occur this week.
The seats are too far back. Very comfortable until you are staring at the sky. At this point I can barely push the pedals far enough. (I think everyone said they were too far back)
Also, the seats will need to be lowered. I bashed my head 5-6 times on a very tough obstacle today. (I think everyone said they were too high)
Last, I need an alternator and a front ARB locker.
Not bad overall for a first ground up build.
On the plus side. I beat the snot out of it today and nothing broke.

Not to belabor the point about rear bumpers, but am I to assume that this rear bumper is illegal for competition?

Depends--where is the chassis above it?

Stopped by the scales today.
The rig weighs 2840lbs
1560lbs on the front axle
1280 on the rear axle
Put my 230 lbs in the seat and and we have near perfect weight distribution on the front and rear axles. Until I move the seats forward this week.

Stopped by the scales today.
The rig weighs 2840lbs
1560lbs on the front axle
1280 on the rear axle
Put my 230 lbs in the seat and and we have near perfect weight distribution on the front and rear axles. Until I move the seats forward this week.

Nice!!! Take some measurements too. Belly hieght, wheelbase, overall, etc.

Oh, and lets see those pics!!!!:D

Stopped by the scales today.
The rig weighs 2840lbs

:eek:

Kick ass!!!

You're there, Brian is there with the 44 car...the weight race is on!!!

Here are a few pic from my backyard. This is my top secret personal testing grounds.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00114.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00115.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00119.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00122.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00125.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00126.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00128.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00130.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00132.jpg
I think we got alittle carried away with the camera.
MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL!!!!

Nice! :smokin:

Daughter in the passenger seat in the first shots? How'd she like it?

Merry Christmas!

Nice! :smokin:

Daughter in the passenger seat in the first shots? How'd she like it?

Merry Christmas!
She was OK with the easy stuff. She wanted out as soon as we got tippy. My son was the cameraman. He is not scared of anything. Last time we flipped in the old rig. We played tic tac toe in the mud waiting to be flipped back over. LOL:)

Congrats!! Can't wait to see it in person and do some wheelin! Hopefully we can put together a ride before Hannibal in April.

As soon as your schedule clears up let me know.
Testing at Windrock/Coal Creek Thur/Fri/Sat after Christmas
Testing at Tellico 2 or 3 weekend in January
Harlan is in the works after a ski trip the last weekend in Jan.
When is the Toy event in KY?

april 4-6 i think
A couple of us may be going

april 4-6 i think
A couple of us may be going
Is there a site I can watch for this event?
Do you have an Ftoy?

Is there a site I can watch for this event?

http://tired-iron.mounet.com/afd08/

Been busy wwheeling the car more than working on it. Here are a few small updates.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00150.jpg
Winch installed.
I am a little concerned about overheating.
Hood bars installed
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00152.jpg
ARB compressor mounted, plumbed and working.
Note to self: Order 12volt guy panel and clean up that birds nest.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00155.jpg
5 point harness installed

It's lookin' sweet :smokin:

Does it wheel like you expected?

What would you change?

I like the front grille hoop, it looks sweet!! Do you have a side profile pic of the front hood bars?

So far the wheelability is awesome. A buddy of mine bought a heavy duty jeep with 60s 350, d300 42" iroks, full 4 link. A real slick ride. We have tried about 25 obstacles together. He has only made 20 or so. He is not happy. But, I AM!!!!!!!

Changes???????????????
Chassis 1-2" higher (not gonna happen any time soon if ever)
Wiring much cleaner and more well thought out (probably after 08 season)
Tig Welding. I would really like to have awesome welds all over the car
Street legal. (in the future) the car is so cool and drives as well as any lifted 4x4 I have owned. I would love to drive it around town and tow it behind the motorhome on vacation.


I will try to get a side pic soon. Bars are about 1.5-2" high in the rear. Then flush at the front. The hood line is going to be fairly low. I am currently working on sheetmetal/aluminum hood and lexan sides.

So far the wheelability is awesome. A buddy of mine bought a heavy duty jeep with 60s 350, d300 42" iroks, full 4 link. A real slick ride. We have tried about 25 obstacles together. He has only made 20 or so. He is not happy. But, I AM!!!!!!!

so you made all 25 and he only made 20?

Thats pretty awesome. Any pics or video of it in action on your last few trips.

You gonna make the April fools day toyota run in Harlan?

In all honesty he seems to not want to use full throttle, and the iroks dont seem to pull as well as the maxxis. Full throttle and a better tire for the sloppy east coast conditions might yield different results.
Yes, my plans have changed and I will be in Harlan.

Side hood pichttp://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00151-1.jpg requested.

Cool, glad your going to harlen, can't wait going to be a blast

Yep. See you there.
I am still trying to find the verda field. Can you help?
Is it at the Bailey Creek trail head?

Yep. See you there.
I am still trying to find the verda field. Can you help?
Is it at the Bailey Creek trail head?

Verda field is not at any trail head but down the street about 1.5 miles from the closest trail head to the lower rock garden. I think that's Bailey Creek but I don't have a map right now.

Verda field isn't in the park. Its right beside the new prison in evarts, ky.

I threw this map together really quick that should show you where the park is in relation to verda field etc. (http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&ll=36.877424,-83.199463&spn=0.095572,0.22934&t=p&z=13&msid=107404506396303769186.0004465347007ae741691)

Been busy wwheeling the car more than working on it. Here are a few small updates.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00150.jpg
Winch installed.
I am a little concerned about overheating.
Hood bars installed
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00152.jpg
ARB compressor mounted, plumbed and working.
Note to self: Order 12volt guy panel and clean up that birds nest.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00155.jpg
5 point harness installed

Your seat bar is too low. The harnesses should not pass thru the seat and proceed at any greater an angle than 45deg. Should you hit severly hard on the front end all the force is transfered to the seat and the seat should not be a stressed member of the harness assembly because it will fail as it wasn't intended to be used that way. We've built quite a few roadrace cars where they are "dead" serious about this stuff. If you hadn't already cut the straps you would have been better to go all the way back to the shock bar but...If you go to Simpson or Schroth's website there will be detailed instructions for belt mounting/routing.

Can't wait to wheel with you guys! I've hated beeing the "Lone Ranger".:D

Your seat bar is too low. The harnesses should not pass thru the seat and proceed at any greater an angle than 45deg. Should you hit severly hard on the front end all the force is transfered to the seat and the seat should not be a stressed member of the harness assembly because it will fail as it wasn't intended to be used that way. We've built quite a few roadrace cars where they are "dead" serious about this stuff. If you hadn't already cut the straps you would have been better to go all the way back to the shock bar but...If you go to Simpson or Schroth's website there will be detailed instructions for belt mounting/routing.

Can't wait to wheel with you guys! I've hated beeing the "Lone Ranger".:D


Uh oh mine are too low as well then. OH well i'm gonna get it running before i worry about that anymore.

John you've done a tremendous job of promoting Ftoys on the east coast. You deserve some people to wheel with :)

2 horseshoe hoops could be added to the existing bar to raise the attachment point would probably be the easiest.

That was the reason I posted the seat belt pics. I neede a pro to give feedback. I am 90% sure this is exactly how the maunfacturer said to install them. I understand what you are saying. If the seat collapses or tears at the pass through in the seat it will allow a lot of slack and movement of the occupant.

the horseshoes should make the belts attach immeditely behind the holes in the seat or at a 45 degree angle at the same height?????
That may be the easiest fix.

Got a coat of paint on and some skins this week. The color is orange. The pics were at night as I was loading for a weekend trail run.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00153-1.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00154-1.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z96/ftoy507/DSC00155-1.jpg
I will try to get a better pic in the daylight. It turned out pretty good.