What is a fair market value for a HP Dana 60 Ford front. Its the Balljoint style. Its the housing with 4:10 gears, and one knuckle.

I know you bought one last week for $5 from the scrap hauler and your buddied traded a pack of smokes for one but I mean cash.

If it's just housing, gears and one knuckle not much. Without shafts or spindles, hubs, brakes, all that shit I don't think I would give anything more than what you can resell the gears for.

What year, does it use unit bearings?

$20?

It's just the potatos without any meat. With just one knuckle and a housing I wouldn't think it would be worth much. You might be able to find a sucker to pay a couple hundred bucks for the housing, or someone who needs just one knuckle might be willing to pay 100 bucks or so for it.

No no unit bearings, but if a guy is putting on Deadenbear knuckles out and alloy shafts, he would have the housing and tubes he needs. I mean whats a Dynatrack/rockjock/rockcrusher/etc Reverse 60 with tubes pressed in cost in comparison?

ya but if that guy was gonna do all that do u think he would start with ball joints unless u mean he was gonna go the hole way w inner c 's and all even then i got mine for a hun without axles and outers because i was gonna do that swap but the inner c's is just overkill for most ...

there's my 2 pennies:D

I'd say let it go. I got my king pin axle in really nice shape complete for $400 from a j/y. shop around some more.

If was a complete axle you could move it for $1200 EASY, right now. The way its sitting as is, probably $300.

Since theres not alot of choices of knuckles for a balljoint axle Id say 200 bucks.
Honestly i mean a whole HP ford front 60 is 800 from highonda

I'd say let it go. I got my king pin axle in really nice shape complete for $400 from a j/y. shop around some more.


I agree. I paid $450 for a chevy kingpin style from a junk yard. I would look around some more because remember "one man's junk is another man's treasure".

I'd say let it go. I got my king pin axle in really nice shape complete for $400 from a j/y. shop around some more.

Where is this JY you speakith of???

AS for complete axles:You can get them from Hihonda for $750. Shipping is $300 so a realistic price for the end-user ~ being the general public (no buddy deal) ~ I'd say $900-1300.

I've seen them go for as much as $1600 used (not rebuilt) and as little as $600. Just depends on who your selling too.

Non-complete/unit bearing units : Last one I got as a trade for some tube bending. And I'm talking about 2-3 hours of tube bending. Unit bearing ones just aren't in much of a demand. Empty kingpin housings is about $100-200.

Where is this JY you speakith of???

got one for 400 from a junkyard in neodesha, last one.
and another one for 230 from a jy in altoona, also the last one they had.

both king pin hpd60's, the latter one was in a little worse shape.

got one for 400 from a junkyard in neodesha, last one.
and another one for 230 from a jy in altoona, also the last one they had.

both king pin hpd60's, the latter one was in a little worse shape.

thanks

There is one on the Denver Craigslist. Complete hub to hub out of a 1993 F-350 for $600.

you prob want to get a kinpin axle instead of a balljoint 60 instead, just a little bit stronger... my .02cents

I need a HP center section.

Gonna part it out?? :D

I need to know to get an approximate trade value. I had one I got from Colorado this way, and the guy had a complete. I traded him mine plus some stuff. Then on top of it he saved some hours in labor not dismanteling his.

We converted this to the Deadenbear parts mentioned with alloy axles and everything. Did a SAS in an 89 Ford Bronco with Coils and 3 link front suspension.

Thanks Guys.

Yea you East Coasters have it good as your bodies rust away before the running gear is half used:)

So what does a RockCrusher/dynatrack/ blah blah front reverse 60 with tubes go for anyway. (Yea did not want to search and knew one of you had looked into it already:D)

Comparing apples to oranges but it is still fun....

From Dynatrac:

Complete Pro 60
Front Housing* (Includes End Forging) DA60-3010-F
$1,445.00 *= no cover.

Complete Pro Rock
60™ Front Housing (Includes End Forging) DA60-3010-E
$1,795.00

Currie RockJock III iron housing with tubes and balljoint style inner knuckles is $1299.


Your junkyard housing with 1 knuckle is worth about $200.

Yea the new stuff is better, but for us regular joe's with no million doller sponsors and such its a start.

So yea i figured $300 for the housing, gears, carrier, and tubes. We then removed the end forgings and put all Deadenbear "C" s on , yukon alloy axle shafts, ARB, and Chevy Deadenbear outers, and built it that way. Wow thoes new hp centersections are spendy.

Did a SAS in an 89 Ford Bronco with Coils and 3 link front suspension.

Yea i beat ya all to it. I figured some one would ask for pics because they dont believe i do "Hardcore conversions" and such:shaking:

1.5" .375 wall (3/8") DOM. Fully machined (NO Inserts and plug welds here) This Tierod/Draglink weighed a ton. Its what the owner wanted so he got it.

3

4

5

flexin!!

Twisty and works well on the trail. Yea i know a Bronco, but it was a fun change of pace for once. I like working on all rigs as long as the project is challenging and fun.

Too bad it took you 5 months to do and the owner of the Bronco had to come in and help you help because he wanted his rig done:shaking:.

Too bad it took you 5 months to do and the owner of the Bronco had to come in and help you help because he wanted his rig done:shaking:.

You got a Name or are ya gonna hide behind the 1 post just signed up routine?

All i have to politley say to you is since you have no clue as to all the details, setbacks, customer supplied wrong parts, etc please butt out. From Day one the customer requested to be involved in the project before we even started as he said he really wanted to learn and be involved in the build. The customer brought in a whole slew of bad ass parts and some of the were wrong, some were not built correctley, and some just were not needed. Anyhow to not take away from this thread with your lame comment. The project took a little over a month from starting the teardown to the stage its at now. And so you know its still going on. Projects always take ironing out the bugs and a shakedown to make final adjustments. With our limited resources we did a hell of a job. The final product looks, awsome, works awsome, and wheels awsome. Its actually really nice to have had the customer there to make decisions as to how he wanted certain things since this was by far no bolt on "Kit" and built from some of the best parts available.
It also gave him a much better understanding of everything on his rig, if the need arrises to alter, or trail fix something (Not likley as everything is hell for stout). So please comment on the stuff that is readiliey available to you like how nice the welds are, how nice the brackets are incorporated into the buckets, etc. Thanks


God i despise people that have nothing better to do than hijack a thread and talk shit. If you want to start shit talk ....start your own thread instead of Hijacking:shaking:

Later
John

1.5" .375 wall (3/8") DOM. Fully machined (NO Inserts and plug welds here) This Tierod/Draglink weighed a ton. Its what the owner wanted so he got it.

it looks like you put the DLE on as the DS TRE and put the TRE on as the upper DLE
you do not need to use the high misalignment ends on the tie rod but they sure help on the draglink

1.5" .375 wall (3/8") DOM. Fully machined (NO Inserts and plug welds here) This Tierod/Draglink weighed a ton. Its what the owner wanted so he got it.

Is your first, middle, or last name bubba joe? :flipoff2:

You got a Name or are ya gonna hide behind the 1 post just signed up routine?

blah blah blah

God i despise people that have nothing better to do than hijack a thread and talk shit. If you want to start shit talk ....start your own thread instead of Hijacking:shaking:

Later
John

Haha, dude seriously this is pirate...who gives?
As for someone signing up for a single post like that, :laughing: fuck 'em.

Edit so you (or anyone else) can't just entirely bitch about my post:
The only welds I saw looked decent.
But man, that rear shackle angle is not helping your droop. You gotta fix that :flipoff2:

it looks like you put the DLE on as the DS TRE and put the TRE on as the upper DLE
you do not need to use the high misalignment ends on the tie rod but they sure help on the draglink

Yea we had an issue i have never encountered before. The threads on one of the TRE were off pitch just enough to be a bugger to get it and messed up the threads, so in order to utilize the DOM we just shortened it up a few inches and retapped it:D

Yea we had an issue i have never encountered before. The threads on one of the TRE were off pitch just enough to be a bugger to get it and messed up the threads, so in order to utilize the DOM we just shortened it up a few inches and retapped it:D


lemme guess, MOOG tre?
BTDT they are bent from the factory. I use Spicer Gold series when I can or order 1/2 a dozen MOOGs and pick out the straight ones.

You got a Name or are ya gonna hide behind the 1 post just signed up routine?

All i have to politley say to you is since you have no clue as to all the details, setbacks, customer supplied wrong parts, etc please butt out. John

Yeah, I got name. So is this the reason the blue and red Scouts have been sitting in your shop for so long, due to "problems"? Its unfortunate that a vender like yourself has to be such a shmuck:stirthepot:

Yeah, I got name. So is this the reason the blue and red Scouts have been sitting in your shop for so long, due to "problems"? Its unfortunate that a vender like yourself has to be such a shmuck:stirthepot:


And your name is??? You just bring yourself over with your welding helmet, book of tricks and we will see who has "Got Fab" and who doesn't. I will put my quality of work up against the best of them and stand even.

So yea you know about the two long term projects that we work on in between short jobs. So what? BFD we do alot of thoes. I have had one rig here for a few years that the guy pays me when he can and i do a small portion of the work. Then he pays me again when he has money and i do some more. Not everyone has deep pockets to do an entire project at one time. Alot of folks can only afford so much per month and thats all we do so they do not fall behind? Hell i have about 30 Internmationals here, some customers, some mine, some parts rigs. So what:confused::shaking:

Can i ask why you have taken such an interest in my Business, and want to talk trash? Have you had work done here? Are you disatsfied with a product you bought from us? I have never had anyone say the quality of my work does not surpass the norm. What is your motivation behind your feeble empty statments designed to publically try and discredit me? I am not running for office ya know:confused:

HOLY BALLS so much flex i just crapped my self

HOLY BALLS so much flex i just crapped my self

you should be amazed, those are cage arms