Most people say to use the '87-'91 1/2 Ton Chevy 4x4 Stnd Cab P/U Rotors (Raybestos# 5977)

But I've seen it done with the earlier '71-'86 1/2 Ton Chevy 4x4 Stnd Cab P/U (Raybestos# 5020)

Here's where I saw this done: http://www.geocities.com/Baja/4515/brakepar.htm

Can anyone tell me what the difference between rotors is?

http://www.northernautoparts.com currently has the older style rotors for $20.99ea. and I'm wondering if I should use those or not.

Also, which model rotor ends up flush with the axle flange when installed? Ive seen this but it wasn't clear which model rotor that was.

Oh yeah, anyone with extra calipers, rotors, or brackets at a good price, please let me know.

Otherwise, I'm making brackets and hitting the Junkyard

Thanks.

88-92 GM 1/2 ton (light duty), plus you still have to modify them.

78-83 Monte Carlo calipers ($15 each at car parts.com)

Buy the brackets from TSM ya cheap ass!!!

Jeff

Thanks but ...

1) you didn't answer even one of the questions I asked.

2) There are no such calipers at carparts.com for $15. Try $45/loaded $25/unloaded

3) Why would I go pay $70 for brackets when I can make them in about an hour?

:confused:

i checked out the link you posted, and heres my educated assumtion,,,tilton uses brackets for truck calipers and then uses the truck rotors that go with that style, so if you get or make brackets to fit that caliper, no problem,
the reason most use newer rotors is because they are using monte carlo calipers, a smaller caliper suited well to the rear axle.. either way if you are making your own brakets,,well,,do what ya want.
Can anyone tell me what the difference between rotors is?
width

Thanks Rhino.

The 5977 rotors have a thinner center section. They lie flush with the raised area on the end of the rear semi-floating cruiser axle, and you can keep your stock studs.

http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/rdb/day2/004_4.jpg

With the other rotors you have to use longer studs. Here's the write-up (http://www.birfield.com/~morgan/tech/rdb/index.html) I did, when I converted to RDB on my FJ55.

Morgan

Thanks for the reply Morgan. I read your write-up before and it left me confused because you mentioned a part number 85977 and said

"the cheaper rotors available for the Chevy P/U are thicker do not lie flush with the disc on the end of the axle shaft, and require longer studs."

I thought the 5977's WERE the cheaper Chevy rotors?

5977 == 85977

The '8' probably got added by NAPA or whatever vendor supplies Napa. The thicker rotors have a dissimilar part number.

Morgan

Your right, I did'nt answer not one of your questions!!! I must have been drunk or somthing... But as for the $70 caliper, well thats correct that they do have some for that price, and I could'nt find any for $15 either (they must have raised thier prices) But I did find some unloaded calipers for $25.

And if you can build the brackets in 1 hour, then by all means, get it awn.

Jeff

Well, here's what I ended up getting for what it's worth:

105977 rotors from Kragen. I took in a print out from autozone's website and Kragen matched the price ($25.99ea) No core.
18-4071 & 18-4072 calipers and pads. $65 total

Caliper pins h5004 from autozone $5/pr.

Hoses 38149 from Napa $15ea.

Thanks for all the info.

workin on mine now, truck but same difference - calipers were like $12 ea at autozone, but then the stupid pins were more - $30 for the set.

Rotors were $29 at Napa

So far that is what I got into it, haven't bought or made brackets yet but I think I will try n make em ;)

I have a big piece of steel, a hole say the diameter of the tube, etc. I'll make it out of one piece and then cut out part to slip it over the tube, tap a couple pieces of bar for the caliper, with the bracket made with the hole saw bolted on and the two tapped flat bars hangin there I will tack it when all lined up and weld away..

Or I'll call TSM ;)

Surprised you had to pay $30 for the pins. Auozone has them for $5/pair.

I'm making brackets too but using the plans from IH8Mud.com

Hopefully Brandon means the calipers AND pins were $30 a set.

nope! They might be going back, autozone said they didn't have them, went to two stores. With that part number maybe they can get them though

They were $7.xx at napa ea

I should get the brakes done wednesday, here is my writup:

http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TechReports/BornAgain/Axles/RearDiskBrakes/RearDiskBrakes.htm

If anyone is interested- a local speed shop (Goshen, Indiana) has weld-on caliper hangers for the GM intermediate size calipers for $18 a set. I have used 2 sets of them and not had a single problem. I don't know who makes em- but can find out if anyone is interested.

FYI on those caliper pins Autozone carries part number h5004 which is two pins in a bag fo $4.99. BUT each store only stocks one at a time so you either have to special order the second set or just go to another location.

For weld on caliper hangers, you can go to AA MFG (http://www.aa-mfg.com) and get weld on caliper brackets for less than $14 per pair.

http://www.aa-mfg.com/catalog/Aa049a.jpg

I've seen those weld on calipers and had second thoughts on the safety. The bolt on's seem a lot safer.

Any thoughts?

As long as the welds are adequate I don't think you'll rip them off the axle tubes. Especially not with the rear brakes. The ones I have used had nice contact with the axle tubes for 2 1/2 or 3 inches and I ran one bead of weld down each side of the plate. I trusted my life with them and still do on occasion- No doubt in my mind. As always, what you do on your own rig is your business- but if the welding is done right- it should hold together longer than you'll ever need it to. Good luck, Luke:emb: