Well i took the scout for the first test drive since the rear 60 swap and w/ the new 35 tsl's. Let's see 1. ran out of gas 200 yards from my driveway. 2. NO BRAKES!!!!. 3. Me the frikken MORON had no brake fluid.

So i put gas in and put brake fluid in, cranked up, but still no response fromt the brakes.
Now was i supposed to bleed the brakes?? There is BARELY any pressure from the pedal w/ the brake fluid. Or do i have a dead power booster?? I have extended steel braided brake lines front and rear and i put new lines on the rear. I am probably a complete idiot and missing something very easy, but very important. I have all the brake lines connected and NOW i have fluid in. Should i bleed them?? Or try the booster??

Oh and i know i won't get help on this and i am not asking, but i am telling yall. There is a loud a** clunking sound that is simultaneous w/ the tires spinning. Just letting yall know how my piece is doing. Ill try to post pics if someone wants to post them for me of my scout completely....almost done!!!

Oh and i am putting my front EZ locker in, that i heard is crap!!!
I will have fun with it though!!

It is ALWAYS almost done!!!

Is your combo/prop valve in the bleeding position?

I guess i should check, i haven't blead them though so i don't think it would be. If it was is that why i wouldn't be getting any pressure?? The switch can go left/middle/right...am i thinking of the right switch. It should be in the middle.

I got this piece of info from OldScout the first time I had to bleed the brakes on my turd, and it was very good advice, get yourself a vacuum bleeder and you don't have to fawk with the proportioning valve.

Napa has one made by mityvac called the ultimate hand tool for $35, and it is well worth it.

Makes bleeding a one man job, and no more fluid in the eyes.

When I first changed my rear lines I also had zero brakes, and couldn't bleed the back for shit, until I vacuum bled them.

Well then thats just what i need to do!!! Thanks for the help Oldscout and again thanks for the help Hayraker, you have helped me a couple of times. And as far as the loud clunk noise ill will keep yall posted......

If i can get some digital pics ill try and post them.

Hayraker i saw that you went to the drab green...i love it!!! You can't beat the price and way that it looks.

If the booster was bad the brakes would be a martha fawker to press. At least that's my exp. with bad boosters. If it is real easy then refer to previous posts.

That makes sense, the brakes just need to be bled. Thanks for the info Brawler

Well i am a frikken moron....i found out what that loud clunking noise was that was simultaneous w/ the front wheels. IT WAS THE WHEELS!!!!! I told myself, before i test drive it, tighten down the lug nuts with the wrench, but i forgot. The lugs were only hand tightened.

I bled the brakes...viola, now i have brakes!!!

So now onto the locker....

I do have one question though, to put the tierod back on did yall use a big hammer to put it on, i am using a wagoneer front 44.
I used a tierod fork to get the draglink and tierod off, which made it easy. I was just wondering if there was a way that made it easier to put the frikken thing back on. My old scout 44 tierod came right off w/o a fork and went back on w/o any trouble....should have figured that a jeep axle would give me crap!!!!!

Originally posted by 392ssII
Well i am a frikken moron....
I do have one question though, to put the tierod back on did yall use a big hammer to put it on, i am using a wagoneer front 44.

Ummm.. it should go on easily with a nut and wrench of appropriate size.

I usually jack the front up, putting the axle on JACK STANDS, one per end of the axle.

I can then move the knuckles easily and DROP the correct tie-rod in, and tighten the nuts to the correct torque setting.

THEN I loosen the adjusting sleeve and set the toe-in with a tape-measure - making sure the front of the tires are the same distance apart as the rear (use chalk, pins in the tire, whatever)

You *should* re-check and probably re-adjust after you set it down on the ground w/o the jack stands, but it's easier to get it close with the tires still in the air.

That way you don't have to roll the vehicle forward and backwards 1/2 tire turn to check the toe-in.

I have the front axle on jack stands...my problem is that the draglink that goes into the tierod won't go all the way in!!!!
The tierod dropped into the knuckles fine...i just cleaned the edges and it dropped in, but the draglink is being a real pain. It just won't go all the way through the hole.

remember this is a HEEP front axle....everything is backwards to me!!! I liked the scout 44 that had two seperate holes on the knuckles. One for the tierod and one for the draglink.

Originally posted by 392ssII
remember this is a HEEP front axle....everything is backwards to me!!! I liked the scout 44 that had two seperate holes on the knuckles. One for the tierod and one for the draglink.

Can't help you much there then.. I use a Chevy axle in mine, but I still mount both the tie-rod and draglink the knuckle. - stock tie-rod setup, custom high-steer draglink.

How about adding a high-steer arm and using your old stock SII draglink and mounting it to the knuckle, high-steer? Keep the tie-rod in the stock location..

Well of course flat tops and high steer arms would eliminate all this and would be a helluva lot nicer, but nice isn't cheap. I just don't have any money right now. Im looking at another scout to have as a DD, and that is where my last dollars are going to go.....but i do plan on eventually going to the high steer!!!!