The rear near completion...A few details to finish...But gettin' close. Now on to the front.

More...

Uno' mas...

Last one...Btw, I'm 6'5" tall...And in the first pic I'm standing right next to the tire....She's tall!

Looks great! Time well spent.




BTW I love the OSHA approved saftey shoes:flipoff2:

-Jeff

That's one helluva clinometer you have on the slider there......


:flipoff2:

Can't wait to see you fully gettin' it in El Cabro! You did say you were going to put a spreader bar between the upper rear shock mount hoops?

Johnathan

Yea John...I've got the cross-over tube all fabbed and ready to weld in...I'm also going to line the inside of (whats left of) the rear fenders with 1.75" tube and tie that into the rear x-member...Then I'll take two tubes off the 'B' pilar down to the rear x-member as well.

I'll then place my nice sheet of 1/8th" alumn. (thanks Mike M!) plate around the cell and over the remaining bed space...Just for pretty.

The process is slow...But no major calculation errors yet. I was a little concerned that the rear tires weren't gonna' clear the springs at full stuff, but it's all okay. Total blast doing this so far. I am amazed at how f'in' HUGE this thing is now. Pic's don't do it justice as to the hight and size of the contraption. The door top litterally hit's me in the upper chest (did I mention I'm 6'5?)...I jumped in the passenger seat last night for the first time, and my first response was "I can't drive this thing!" WEIRD feeling being that high up. However with the calcs that I've done, I'm about 10-11" over stock. However, I'm also about 18" wider than stock. So realistically my CG hasn't changed all that much. Not to mention I've got approx. 1800lbs of un-sprung weight under that frame and body. Should keep me shinny side up for a while.

Hey Sam...What did you say the clearance under your frame rails is now with your 42's? I'm right at 27" now.

I like the pose for the photo....

i can imagine the scenario "say cheese...."



"F**K off!!" :flipoff2:


Jamie

looks sick!

How many inches did you say you moved the axle back?
And the front?

I think with your nifty new tube bender that you might want to consider reinforcing the rear fenders. See attached picture. This way when you lean against a rock you would hit the tubing about 3/8" prior to hitting the body. Paint them black or red and it would blend nicely. You could even incorporate them into the shock mount. Here is a picture of what I mean. This would increase the strength of everything an protect the rear body as well.

Way

And another

Yup...That's the idea Adam...Cept' I'm going to run the tube off the lower 'B' pilar supports on the inside of the bed rather than the outside..I'm just not one for exo's...I'm going to tie the primary rear shock hoops into the horizontal tubes...The horizontal tubes will tie into the rear x-member...I'll also tie everthing together via the down tubes that come off the top of the B pilar to the rear x-member. Should keep her all nice and tight.

RH: The rear axle is back approx. 7". The front is going forward 7" as well. Should net me about a 107" wb...I was considering going for 115, but I just didn't like the break-over (and turning) issues associated with such a long wb. Then I dropped to 110" and then finally decided on 107". If I find out that it's a little scary on steep stuff, I'll just move the rear back another 4...

I knew I should have gone with 44's! :flipoff2:

Can you lower your lift (through coilover adjustment) so that the tires barely miss the body at full articulation. It sounds that since you feel you could have gone bigger that you have more height than what you need. Looks like a very tall rig. I wonder if it would be better off road to lower the center of gravity (decreasing break over angle a bit). Should have a lot of stability with the wider track width. With my new back spaced rims on the back of mine feels VERY stable now. Mine measures 80.5" from outside of tire to outside of tire for comparison. I am pretty top heavy too (easy merv). Have you cycled the suspension yet. Not sure how complete the front is yet??? Where do you rub?

P.S. strength in the rear end should be overkill which is good and keeps you on track with the rest of the rig...WAY OVERKILL. Oh by the way I was referring to running the bracing in the wheel arc (3/8" protruding and the rest inside) not outside of it. But I like your idea better. You could even drill and tap the tubing for a 5/16" bolt (1/4" wouldn't be overkill enough for you) so that you could securely attach the skins (your body) to the tube bracing. You could get those fancy star drive button head bolts to make it look super pretty (since that is your ultimate goal :) ).

Way

Just wanted to throw out an interesting pict. I had laying around. Top Secret source. Not likely to be seen in the wild for a while yet.

Blister

O.K. I'll bite. What are we looking at? Who's rig? Story??? The picture has my interest.

Way

isn't that bill's shop? so wouldn't that mean that's the rear of the 110? Just a guess but that sort of looks like bill sitting down playing with the lint in his belly button. Nope guess that's alan oops

-ben

Dayum! Diggin those frame notches! Hmmmmmm. Wonder who it could be....Does he drive a Rover on the Gulf Coast? Hmmmmmm.

I seem to remember a guy you mentioned that had a set of King (16"?) coilies lying around in his shop for a looooong time now.

Looks like he's keeping the stock housings....And running 38.5 SX's?

Nice work too.

--D

Originally posted by Way
Can you lower your lift (through coilover adjustment) so that the tires barely miss the body at full articulation. It sounds that since you feel you could have gone bigger that you have more height than what you need. Looks like a very tall rig. I wonder if it would be better off road to lower the center of gravity (decreasing break over angle a bit). Should have a lot of stability with the wider track width. With my new back spaced rims on the back of mine feels VERY stable now. Mine measures 80.5" from outside of tire to outside of tire for comparison. I am pretty top heavy too (easy merv). Have you cycled the suspension yet. Not sure how complete the front is yet??? Where do you rub?

P.S. strength in the rear end should be overkill which is good and keeps you on track with the rest of the rig...WAY OVERKILL. Oh by the way I was referring to running the bracing in the wheel arc (3/8" protruding and the rest inside) not outside of it. But I like your idea better. You could even drill and tap the tubing for a 5/16" bolt (1/4" wouldn't be overkill enough for you) so that you could securely attach the skins (your body) to the tube bracing. You could get those fancy star drive button head bolts to make it look super pretty (since that is your ultimate goal :) ).

Way

Hey man pretty is a JOURNEY not a DESTINATION! :flipoff2:

I can drop the rig by a good 4-5" via the adjuster on the top of the coil-over. ...And each link has approx 3" of adjustment to keep the pinion in line whatever ride height I choose. But I DO like it up there....And realistically the CG is very close to stock with the width that I have....But alas, you are right. The lower the better. The front is the issue. If I want a 90deg approach then I need to be up there a little to clear what's left of my front fenders. I really don't want to have to loose the whole front pannel (light box and turn signals)....My goal all along with this project is to keep it Roverish enough that people will say "Hey that's a D90". I don't want it to go so far as to hear remarks like "What the FAWK is THAT?" But I already do! :flipoff2:

Originally posted by RockRover


Hey Sam...What did you say the clearance under your frame rails is now with your 42's? I'm right at 27" now.

My clearance is a bit less than 19in with 4psi. So basically your machine is gonna be fukn huge. :vader2: I think that mine is a bit to low. Ive got about the same rail clearance as most other guys with 35s are running but my suspension geometry really carnt handle any more lift at the moment. And I think that my wheel base definately carnt handle any more lift either. So for me low is good.

Ive got a bit more rear weight happening now which has also lowered the rear a bit more so my previous hopping probs have almost gone.

Your rig is looking awsome though. Will be great when you get it running. With your steering setup the front wont be all that more complicated than the back. Its a good thing you dont have to worry about mucking around with a steering box cause the steering links are a real PITA.

It will be interesting to see how your rig is going turn out and how its going to perform, cause man you are doing some major shiat here. Its going to be so much different to how it was its almost scary.

But damn, your going to have so much fun (although a guess you are having fun already :D )

Sam

Oh yea read a really good statement in the latest 4wheel and off road (well latest here) They put 42s on their ram charger and there parting comment was-

"While the big tires (sp :P)made our fullsize wheel like a flatfender, they also highlighted any weakness in the vehicle we still needed to address."

I read this and thought how true, especially in suspension setup. If you think you got a good suspension setup working with some 35s bang on a set of 42s and see it work like a POS - I know mine did.

But I would never go back.

Rock Rover!

What the FAWK is THAT!?!

Kick ARSSSS man. I will be honored to follow you into Upper Helldorado.

Keep that tow strap handy. I hope I can keep up!

I wanna see an entire side view of that thing for proportions sake. Throw in a 12 inch ruler for scale and I'd be happy!

Michael