I don't get it.
I wristed my arm and i did worse on the ramp than when it was pinned?

I went up the ramp backwards and when i came down my
front left tire went up in the air????
costing me about 10 inches.

I still got 5th in the 90-100" wheel base cat. at memorial day in dresser wis.
. 1039 on a 23 degree ramp.

Anyone else have less than expected results?

you fucked it up soemhow..... wristed arms are the fawking ticket... got any pics?

were did you wrist it at ?
and pics of it we need pics :D

I don't know what you did, but you made a wrong turn somewhere. My wristed arm greatly increassed my flex.

You got pics of your set up?

Here's a pic of mine installed

eh? :confused:

I agree with everyone else. Something must be wrong with the way your arm is built -or- you made another change that is limiting you.

Agreed, you got something fucked up.

got any pics of it in action.... you must have designed something crossed eyed or somethin

You fawked it up. I don't know how you could have fawked up something so easy, but you did. Send pics.

Ok, we all agree that you fawked up somehow. Now let us help! Post a pic of your set-up. I'm sure we can figure it out for you :)

Hey rubicrawler...

Not a bad arm setup, but it's a little ghetto looking... WTF is up with Grade 5 hardware and a bolt about 3/4" too long?

Actually, the bolt is only about 1/2" too long. Yes, it's a grade 5 bolt. I was taught that grade 8 bolts are better for tension and grade 5 is better for shear strength. If someone knows differently, I'd like to hear about it.

Btw- let's see a pic of yours :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Rubicrawler
Actually, the bolt is only about 1/2" too long. Yes, it's a grade 5 bolt. I was taught that grade 8 bolts are better for tension and grade 5 is better for shear strength. If someone knows differently, I'd like to hear about it.

Btw- let's see a pic of yours :flipoff2:

ohhh shame on you Rubicrawler..... Grade 8 is stronger than Grade 5 in all conditions...This has been covered a few times over the last couple years. Don't let Billivista see that. Here's a good link from awhile back

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=40342&highlight=grade+strength+stretch

Whether you actually need a Grade 8 bolt, I wouldn't know. I used one just because I could.

The bolt I used had to be long so the smooth shank would be long enough..... Who cares if it's too long. Ghetto? Who cares, it works!

Originally posted by Nobody


ohhh shame on you Rubicrawler..... Grade 8 is stronger than Grade 5 in all conditions...This has been covered a few times over the last couple years. Don't let Billivista see that. Here's a good link from awhile back

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=40342&highlight=grade+strength+stretch




:hangingmyheadinshame: I guess you can teach an old dawg new tricks :emb: Thanks for the link :)

Actually, from what I've gathered, the reason that grade 5's are better is that they will wear and show signs of wear. They're softer and don't just snap. Grade 8's are more brittle.

If you look at what comes with most winches, bumpers and body lifts, they're grade 5.

Also, Grade 5 bolts are plenty tough. If ANYBODY has snapped a 1" grade 5 bolt in any condition, I'd like to hear how they did it. The shear strength on those things is crazy and it's likely that if you break it you will break other things as well.

Rubicrawler showed you his, now you show him yours. That's how it works...

I'll try and get some pics of it this weekend.... it is an identical copy of Lee Novikoff's... to the t...

So you have the hydraulic ram on it as well? Where'd you get it? How much did it cost you? Part numbers? Are you sure you had it unlocked?

Its more than likely your panhard bar. When your arm was not tricked out, your axle would not rotate mutch. But when you only have one radius arm controlling the camber, the axle will twist on the passanger side. From that, your panhard bar is binding agenst itself, and limiting your rigs flex. You can fix this somwhat by either backing off the bars bolt a notch or two, thus allowing it to push outward more with flex, or change back to a rubber bushing.

Originally posted by IronBenderII
Actually, from what I've gathered, the reason that grade 5's are better is that they will wear and show signs of wear. They're softer and don't just snap. Grade 8's are more brittle.

If you look at what comes with most winches, bumpers and body lifts, they're grade 5.

Also, Grade 5 bolts are plenty tough. If ANYBODY has snapped a 1" grade 5 bolt in any condition, I'd like to hear how they did it. The shear strength on those things is crazy and it's likely that if you break it you will break other things as well.

Rubicrawler showed you his, now you show him yours. That's how it works...

Why would you want a bolt that shows wear when you can get one that just won't break??????:rolleyes: :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
Well Ok you can break anything, but why use a weaker bolt. IS grade 8 really much more expensive? Negligable

Originally posted by IronBenderII
So you have the hydraulic ram on it as well? Where'd you get it? How much did it cost you? Part numbers? Are you sure you had it unlocked?

actually mine is his OLD design... I am building a setup like his front right now...just waiting to see whether I eliminater the C-bushings and go D60 and go "4 link" or keep the D44 for a while...

Originally posted by TexasTeadrinker


actually mine is his OLD design... I am building a setup like his front right now...just waiting to see whether I eliminater the C-bushings and go D60 and go "4 link" or keep the D44 for a while...

Prolly should start another thread, but how is your d44 holding up to 38's?

with CTMs and warn axleshafts I haven't broken anything yet...of course it is sitting in a shop waiting to be driven too... :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

BroncoRob, I won't get into the whole grade 8 vs. grade 5 thing again, it's like manual vs. automatic. But softer doesn't mean weaker. Just different. They have different uses.

FYI if that bolt shows wear then something is wrong, that bolt shoul not wear

sorry it took so long to reply. my girl friend got the klez .
I haven't been home since.

AS to the topic . yes i must of f#*ked up

and my pics are not back yet. who will help me once they are? i"ve serched and none of it make's sence to me. i've paid my $20 now what?

If you want just e-mail me then I will post for you untill you can get it working!
Kevin

WM, that's the point. When the grade 5 shows signs of wear, it's time to replace. The grade 8 won't, it will just break.

Back to the topic, post the pics!

-Jack

WM, that's the point. When the grade 5 shows signs of wear, it's time to replace. The grade 8 won't, it will just break.
Ignorance or just cheap? I'd guess both

BR, I'll use small words so you can follow along.

One will warn you before it is going to break the other will just snap.

So IronBender, I assume you take your bronco apart on a regular basis and check the bolts for wear:confused:

I think a Grade8 bolt would show every bit as much wear as a grade 5. What kind of wear would you be looking for anyway? Grade 8's generally don't break. How many broken grade 8 bolts do you come across?

With your logic, you should trade your warn axles and CTM's with me.... With my stock axles you could inspect them regularly for wear.I'll gladly risk the constant failure of warns, and CTM's :flipoff2:

I agree that grade 8's don't fail often. Neither do grade 5's. Especially in this application.

I don't have it apart that often, but you can be sure that when it is apart, I check for any parts that have been warn and replace them as needed.

Some axle manufacturers make their axles out of softer material so that they will take a constant beating. They will twist before they break.

Others make them out of a harder material. They are designed to take higher loads, but when they break, they just snap.

Drag racers use a softer core axle. They put a line down the top of it when it's new. When the axle has twisted all the way around (or close to) the axles get replaced.

Run a search on this discussion as we are wasting time re-stating the facts. I'll post if my 1" grade 5 ever fails...

My bolts rarely brake, they just loosen up and fall out

I've used the same 7/8 gr. 5 in my wristed arm for over 3 years, first with the 44 and now with the 60 and 38's. No problem and only a little of the plating is worn off and I don't use any bushing or grease, it runs dry. Thats my preference based on experience don't bother trying to change my mind it will only waste bandwidth. This whole gr.5-v-gr.8 debate has been hammered to death on every list know to man. Read the archives EVERYWHERE, make up your own minds and lets move on.


I want to see pictures of that wristed arm that doesn't work. Please include pictures of it in the air and lets also take a look at other suspension details. Springs, mounts, link bars etc. I'd like to get this thing figured out.

Originally posted by welndmn
My bolts rarely brake, they just loosen up and fall out

That's pretty funny Mark :D

Originally posted by broncorob


That's pretty funny Mark :D

It becomeing really sad, i am going to have to loctie eveything, I got home from TTC and 3 out of the 5 bolts that hold the TC to the adapter were MIA, LOL, thank god t did not just fall out on me :D

How the Hell did we get into this stupid conversation on bolt grades. If you think a grade 5 is stronger or better than a grade 8 , then your smoking some major shit. Its like saying a d44 is stronger than a rockwell 2 ton axle. Stop comparing this stuff. And second, WTF does this have to do with the topic of the post? *My axle is broken. 'Okay, but how strong are your seat mounts?:rasta: *


Geez..:rolleyes:

SMC - Too little, too late. We aren't opening that can of worms again.

-Jack

I agree Jack

Let posts die when it's time fawking newbie :flipoff2:

Originally posted by malkintent
I don't get it.
I wristed my arm and i did worse on the ramp than when it was pinned?

I went up the ramp backwards and when i came down my
front left tire went up in the air????
costing me about 10 inches.



Anyone else have less than expected results?

I started this last year.
In that time i figured it out.

yes i made it right, but the poly trac bar bushing's were so tight
they bound up.

I put a rod end on and presto full flex, now i get it.

the jeep thing still has me stumped though.:flipoff2:

I want to know more about the panhard bar over tightening. I use poly bushings and snug the crap out of mine to keep it from getting the side to side "death wobble", but am a little dissapointed in my flex. (as it appears to me)

How far did you guys back off on the panhard bar? Which side? Probably the axle side, if I figure right. How much did it help you?

Adam

malkintent,

Did you make a rod end at both sides of the panhard bar, A.K.A. a custom one? I like the idea!

Hmmm... I may have to fab something like that up, if it is not commercially available.

Adam

yes its at the axel end.

i've got enough parts to make three more.

i had my eb jacked up on stands with pin in,or out wristed arm

it just hung there"

with rod end on it fall's to the floor. same when it's all together.

i'll try to get some pic's it may be awhile though.

i use a adjustble trac bar the one side is treaded .
i leave the jamb nut snug not tight, but it will turn slightly under flex :D

Originally posted by Rubicrawler
Actually, the bolt is only about 1/2" too long. Yes, it's a grade 5 bolt. I was taught that grade 8 bolts are better for tension and grade 5 is better for shear strength. If someone knows differently, I'd like to hear about it.



Exactly...
Grade 5 will let you know it's about to fail...
Grade 8 just snaps and lets the pieces fall where they will.... :flipoff2:

malkintent,

Do share! I would love to get that kind of movement from my front end. Got any pics, sketches, or a parts list?

Adam

ADAM HERES WHAT I'VE GOT SET UP.

WH 3.5 ROCK CRAWLER SPRING'S
my own spring pivot's 2.5" lift
ford radius arm's wristed 14" longer. 3/4 rod end.
NEW trac bar 1.25 od dom .25 wall with a 3/4 rod end on the axel side.
reienforced drop trac bar brkt to match my steering.
i lifted my axel mount 2.5" up so i could clear hydro
and again to match steering angle.
duff 34" ext shocks wh hoop's shock pivot's
i still need limiting strap's i made spring fall out's.

the rear is wh 4.5
cross r shock hoopy bar thing
floating trac bar

i finaly got my own camera so i'll try to figure it out this weekend.

ok so finally here are some pic's


C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\malkintent\pics\new bronco\1.jpg

C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\malkintent\pics\new bronco\2.jpg

oop's wrong thread i have so much to catch up on

any way those are the best jack stands in da worldC:\WINDOWS\Desktop\malkintent\pics\new bronco\6.jpg

C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\malkintent\pics\new bronco\7.jpg

C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\malkintent\pics\new bronco\8.jpg
C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\malkintent\pics\new bronco\9.jpg

here's me ramping ti put the pin back in the arm by this point.
C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\malkintent\pics\bronco\brpic000 9.JPG

C:\WINDOWS\Desktop\malkintent\brpic0009.JPG

1 tip for ya..... You have to upload those pics......

lets try again

heres some more

and another

yep another
look inside the spring i'll get a better pic soon

here's the new trac bar