Air Compressor for the Rig

[KiGrind]

Interested in putting an air compressor in my Jeep, doubt I'll find one small enough to run air tools on that dosn't require refilling and cost me a bunch. Something that will pump up a 33-35 at a decent speed. Good resistance to mud and all that goes with it (Dirt, Water).

Figure if it has to plug into a sig outlet I could cut and splice it to a relay and power it from a switch on the dash. If its small enough I want to mount it where my glove box went in my CJ7.

And I need a long enough cord to reach all the tires. :grinpimp:



Is this possible without spending more than half the price of tank?

[KiGrind]

I don't have $350 for a power tank and no AC pump or knowledge to run a custom air setup... just want something I can atleast air up tires after air down for the day and help reseat a bead.

[crimsen]

can you run a compressor off the engine ?

[guidolyons]

Anything that plugs into a cigarette lighter won't do jack. If you want a 12V that will move some air they will draw 30+amps and will have clips to go directly to the battery. Most 12V compressors that are under $300 don't have the balls or duty cycle to do much other than for emergencies.

If you do some searching, you will find many threads about the (SuperFlow MV-50 they were being discontinued at Shucks/Checkers clearance a few years ago for $25, but those are long gone/discontinued) MasterFlow Tsunami MF-1050 ($60 at Pep Boys) .

http://www.gearinstalls.com/pepboys.htm

http://www.parksoffroad.com/prodreview/inflatortest/mv50/mv50.htm

I got one of the MF-1050 from PepBoys for my wife's Liberty on sale for $49 quite awhile ago, but they are a pretty good bang for the buck. Small, and puts about about 2.5 cfm IIRC

You can leave it portable, or hardmount and wire it to a pressure switch like this:
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/portable_oba/


Also search for 12V PUMA. Buzzard Gulch on e-bays seels them comes with a 1.5 gal tank~ $200 this is cool because it has everything self contained, pressure switch, tank, etc all things you would have to add to a stand alone compressor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/12v-1-5-gal-air-compressor-Puma-6-50-Ship_W0QQitemZ180132110513QQihZ008QQcategoryZ11751 QQcmdZViewItem
310689

Specs:
125 PSI
oil-Less compressor
Pressure Switch
Compact, lightweight 28 lbs
3.4 cfm @ 40 psi
3 cfm @ 90 psi
Dimentions: 15" High, 14" Long, 5" Deep
100% Duty Cycle
30 amp draw
1750 rpm
60 dec noise level
23 lbs
1 Year warranty

I have a MAXAir 4.0 and 2.5 gallon tank ($399) from http://www.4wdproducts.com/Specials%20Page.htm but had I known about the buzzardgulch Puma (basically the same), I would have saved a $200.

[Haggar]

You can also get the Masterflows at Costco for about $50. They have a dual compressor version for maybe $80 or $90.


I bought one, as a temporary setup, until I got my engine driven compressor running. So here's my report:

I connected mine to an 11 gallon tank. The fitting in the head is wierd, so like many others, I removed it, and redrilled/tapped the head for a 1/4" NPT fitting. I used flexible copper to connect to my tank.

At first, I was very dissapointed. I ran it hooked up to my jump pack. It could only get the tank to about 50 psi, then it'd stop. That was using the stock wiring with spring clamps.

I removed the stock wiring. I used 8 gage to connect the power (through a switch and fuse) to the battery, and ran an 8 gage ground to the body.

Now, its about 3 times as fast, and fills the tank up just fine.

I'm going to replace it with something smaller, a 5 gallon tank or so, for space sake.

In general, they are a good piece for what you pay.

[SeaBass44]

I picked up an oasis used, they are a winch motor 35% duty sycle,& a york compressor, 8cfm @ 100psi, can run 15minutes then neds to cool 45, should fill up 12 35s in that time
they run $800-$1,500

they draw 200amps:D

got mine used cheap

[kwrangln]

I'll second the Puma recommendation. Do a search for them here on the board, havn't heard of anyone unhappy with em yet. Love mine, easily compares to setups costing twice as much. I keep mine portable, and added long power leads to it, that way if someone else needs air, they can use their own battery to do it.

[KiGrind]

Anything that plugs into a cigarette lighter won't do jack. If you want a 12V that will move some air they will draw 30+amps and will have clips to go directly to the battery. Most 12V compressors that are under $300 don't have the balls or duty cycle to do much other than for emergencies.

If you do some searching, you will find many threads about the (SuperFlow MV-50 they were being discontinued at Shucks/Checkers clearance a few years ago for $25, but those are long gone/discontinued) MasterFlow Tsunami MF-1050 ($60 at Pep Boys) .

http://www.gearinstalls.com/pepboys.htm

http://www.parksoffroad.com/prodreview/inflatortest/mv50/mv50.htm

I got one of the MF-1050 from PepBoys for my wife's Liberty on sale for $49 quite awhile ago, but they are a pretty good bang for the buck. Small, and puts about about 2.5 cfm IIRC

You can leave it portable, or hardmount and wire it to a pressure switch like this:
http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/portable_oba/


Also search for 12V PUMA. Buzzard Gulch on e-bays seels them comes with a 1.5 gal tank~ $200 this is cool because it has everything self contained, pressure switch, tank, etc all things you would have to add to a stand alone compressor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/12v-1-5-gal-air-compressor-Puma-6-50-Ship_W0QQitemZ180132110513QQihZ008QQcategoryZ11751 QQcmdZViewItem
310689

Specs:
125 PSI
oil-Less compressor
Pressure Switch
Compact, lightweight 28 lbs
3.4 cfm @ 40 psi
3 cfm @ 90 psi
Dimentions: 15" High, 14" Long, 5" Deep
100% Duty Cycle
30 amp draw
1750 rpm
60 dec noise level
23 lbs
1 Year warranty

I have a MAXAir 4.0 and 2.5 gallon tank ($399) from http://www.4wdproducts.com/Specials%20Page.htm but had I known about the buzzardgulch Puma (basically the same), I would have saved a $200.




This: http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/portable_oba/

Now that is interesting enough. But I need to know, is that just to fill up tires? If the pump strait out of the box will inflate the 31s I have right now, I'm sold. I plan on 33s but max 35s, was actually looking at 34x10.5 ltbs. Max I'll go with is a 12.50. I'd hate to spend $400 just to inflate my tires.

If its something I could run an impact wrench on, I could understand it, but I assume that is not the case.

[guidolyons]

This: http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/portable_oba/

Now that is interesting enough. But I need to know, is that just to fill up tires? If the pump strait out of the box will inflate the 31s I have right now, I'm sold. I plan on 33s but max 35s, was actually looking at 34x10.5 ltbs. Max I'll go with is a 12.50. I'd hate to spend $400 just to inflate my tires.

If its something I could run an impact wrench on, I could understand it, but I assume that is not the case.

Huh?:confused:
Did you read all the links? :shaking: The 4x4wire write up cost $138, because of airtank, fittings, wire, etc. He probably hardmouted it for convienence and to run air lockers.

Where do you get $400 for a MF1050? They cost $60 at PepBoys. They will fill your 31's just fine, and would even fill 35's it would just take awhile.

Even with an airtank, the MF1050 would have trouble keeping up with air tools, a 3/8 ratchet, maybe, but not an 1/2 impact.

OBA can be as simple and cheap or as expensive and complicated as you make it, performance cost $$$, the more duty cycle and CFM... the more you gotta pay to play.

The MF1050 is a good cheap alternative to most other crappy 12V air compressors and outperforms many the cost 3X-5x more. You can always add a pressure switch and storage tank later.

I really like the MAXair 4.0 that I have, but IMO, the best bang for the buck is the Puma... you could by 5 of them for the price of one Oasis.

[Bubba_Jeep]

I have the Puma. I also have the ARB compressor, which I found wholly impractical to air up. It will work (its ass off:grinpimp:) to just barely get the tires a reasonable pressure to get to the nearest gas station! The Puma is a serious compressor at 3.4CFM at 40psi, and it's 100% duty cycle. I've heard of people running an impact wrench with one; but I haven't tried that. It does a quick job on my BFG 33x12.5's.

My install:

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/8724/puma3hk5.jpg (http://img167.imageshack.us/my.php?image=puma3hk5.jpg)
http://img483.imageshack.us/img483/669/puma4py4.jpg

[KiGrind]

What I said was, I'm not buying a damn Puma if all it can do is air up tires fast. I'm not in an air tire race. If the $40-60 works fine out of the box I dont need to really spend the extra for it.... but if it could decently run an impact I'll do it.. :D I might do it anyways, should have much better performance.... right? Ya know... to air up tires from 20 PSI to 35...

[KiGrind]

I might just do the box deal anyways so I can mount it to the floor and be done with it, it will have to be exposed to rain, dirt, mud etc. Maybe turn the same box into a speaker box to conserve space when I install my cheap sound stuff. :-)

[braxton357]

You can put together a co2 setup for $100-150 easy... Sounds like you're just going to go with a cheap parts store compressor, which is fine. But after a couple times, waiting 25-30 minutes to air up your tires gets old.

[KiGrind]

You can put together a co2 setup for $100-150 easy... Sounds like you're just going to go with a cheap parts store compressor, which is fine. But after a couple times, waiting 25-30 minutes to air up your tires gets old.



True, but driving down the road 10 miles to the nearest gas station with air at that pressure or being in the woods when the tire unseats is not really tits either. I can live with it for now, more or less a better to have this than nothing kind of deal right now.


Looks like no one carries the Superflow MV-50 anymore huh? Newer model or something? I could order online if I could find it. Will report a link when I do, if I do.

[Travis Waldher]

Just mount a york compressor under the hood.

It can be done cheap and it'll keep up with an air grinder.

[guidolyons]

Looks like no one carries the Superflow MV-50 anymore huh? Newer model or something? I could order online if I could find it. Will report a link when I do, if I do.


If you do some searching, you will find many threads about the (SuperFlow MV-50 they were being discontinued at Shucks/Checkers clearance a few years ago for $25, but those are long gone/discontinued) MasterFlow Tsunami MF-1050 ($60 at Pep Boys)

Your reading comprehension sucks. The Supeflow MV-50 is long gone, discontinued, no longer available, obsolete, etc. The MF 1050 is the newer version.

If you want to reseat a tire bead, the MF1050 can't do it without an airtank.

The $200 Puma can reseat tire beads and run some air tools.

It would not be that hard to put a York under the hood, then you'd have all the free air you could ever need.

Do whatever you want...:shaking:

[Haggar]

Your reading comprehension sucks. The Supeflow MV-50 is long gone, discontinued, no longer available, obsolete, etc. The MF 1050 is the newer version.

If you want to reseat a tire bead, the MF1050 can't do it without an airtank.

The $200 Puma can reseat tire beads and run some air tools.

It would not be that hard to put a York under the hood, then you'd have all the free air you could ever need.

Do whatever you want...:shaking:


x2

The Masterflow 1052 which is the same thing is for sale at costcos..

To reseat a bead, anything will work, if you have a air tank. I can reseat a bead with my MF1052, because I have an 11 gallon tank. Heck, If I keep the tank at 80-100 psi,I don't even need to turn on the compressor usually. I run swampers at 7psi front / 3psi rear, so my tank, full, will fill more than one tire to that pressure.

Here's a tip, it makes it easier to reseat a tire. Get a 16" BMX bike inner tube. When you have rolled the tire off the bead, the hard part is getting it back on to seal. Place the inner tube around the rim and inflate it, it makes a nice gasket between the tire and the wheel. Now inflate your tire, it'll pop on the bead. Deflate and remove the bmx tube, if it doesn't pop out on its own.

[KiGrind]

Just mount a york compressor under the hood.

It can be done cheap and it'll keep up with an air grinder.



I have all the mounting brackets on my 304 for one. Need the compressor, and a tank. Think a place like Autozone carries one? If not, what vehicles in a yard can I yank um from. I can't make my own brackets.

[Mud in the blood]

I picked up an oasis used, they are a winch motor 35% duty cycle,& a york compressor, 8cfm @ 100psi, can run 15minutes then needs to cool 45, should fill up 12 35s in that time
they run $800-$1,500

they draw 200amps:D

got mine used cheap

I built my own with a SBC starter motor & York 210 for 'bout $60. I set mine up with a chain drive so I could play with the ratio of the drive. It kicks ass!!!

[poolville02]

I built my own with a SBC starter motor & York 210 for 'bout $60. I set mine up with a chain drive so I could play with the ratio of the drive. It kicks ass!!!

Sounds cool, got pics of this setup? What ratio are you using on the drive?

[SeaBass44]

I built my own with a SBC starter motor & York 210 for 'bout $60. I set mine up with a chain drive so I could play with the ratio of the drive. It kicks ass!!!


how is that holding up?

I wouldn't think a motor ment for a max of 1 minute continous use would stand up to abuse like that:flipoff2:

what is the duty cycle of a starter motor?

[Mud in the blood]

It's been going strong for over a year now. Once in a while when I have been running air tools for 1/2hr or so it will smoke just a little. But it has never slowed down or burnt up on me. I made one 2 or 3 years ago with a Ford 9N tractor starter, that thing was ungodly:eek::eek::eek: but it pulled 423amps:p when in use. This one only pulls around 180amps and makes air damn near as good. The ratio on it right now is 0.7:1 (easier on the motor) and that is working good.

[SeaBass44]

It's been going strong for over a year now. Once in a while when I have been running air tools for 1/2hr or so it will smoke just a little. But it has never slowed down or burnt up on me. I made one 2 or 3 years ago with a Ford 9N tractor starter, that thing was ungodly:eek::eek::eek: but it pulled 423amps:p when in use. This one only pulls around 180amps and makes air damn near as good. The ratio on it right now is 0.7:1 (easier on the motor) and that is working good.

got any pics?

interesting that the motor will run that long:eek:

guess they really over-engineered those things:D

I'll be checking the amp draw on my oasis once I get around to hooking it up, I might see about building another:grinpimp:

[KiGrind]

Well I have a 5 gallon air tank I used to carry about when my old tires had a leak to um, was having to fill them up every day. Usually I'd walk out after school and they would only have like 15-20lbs in it and I'd just give her a little plug up to get home.

These air tanks can't be made to work with an air pump very easy right? I'm thinking I need an inlet and outlet setup. Not sure if me drilling the side would be safe, want to ask first.

[Mud in the blood]

Just have the 1 right now. I will see 'bout snaping some more and post up.

[KiGrind]

For what the starter was made for, turning the chain really shouldn't be too much trouble for it should it? The heat it would produce could be combatted with some little copper heatsinks and maybe a 120mm fan..... just an idea if thats the issue.

[CPOM]

These air tanks can't be made to work with an air pump very easy right? I'm thinking I need an inlet and outlet setup. Not sure if me drilling the side would be safe, want to ask first.

No you don't need an inlet AND outlet. Air flows in every direction, you can hook up a tank, pump, and hose in any combination. Just google "On board air" and start reading.

[guidolyons]

Well I have a 5 gallon air tank...
These air tanks can't be made to work with an air pump very easy right? I'm thinking I need an inlet and outlet setup. Not sure if me drilling the side would be safe, want to ask first.

If you have the brackets for a YORK (CAME STOCK ON AMC/JEEPS) go find a junkyard, then hit Home Depot for some brass fittings and a pressure switch. Some simple plumbing and wiring....D-O-N-E. DOn't drill any holes in the tank, that's why there's a plumbing aisle at HD.

google On Board Air... read.

[Mud in the blood]

For what the starter was made for, turning the chain really shouldn't be too much trouble for it should it? The heat it would produce could be combatted with some little copper heatsinks and maybe a 120mm fan..... just an idea if thats the issue.

Not a load problem at ALL:smokin: just heat after running for 4-5min. with no rest (air grinder). Thank U! I don't know why my dumb ass never thought of some type of heat sink:shaking::shaking: I'm thinking something in aluminum fin. I bet it would double my "time to smoke" on the motor.

[SeaBass44]

Not a load problem at ALL:smokin: just heat after running for 4-5min. with no rest (air grinder). Thank U! I don't know why my dumb ass never thought of some type of heat sink:shaking::shaking: I'm thinking something in aluminum fin. I bet it would double my "time to smoke" on the motor.


fan is better way to go
the 1,500 osias has a fan & is 90% duty cycle

altenators use fans too, the later 12si has a much bigger fan and can be had in 94a, stock without:smokin: up to $125-150

[KiGrind]

Not a load problem at ALL:smokin: just heat after running for 4-5min. with no rest (air grinder). Thank U! I don't know why my dumb ass never thought of some type of heat sink:shaking::shaking: I'm thinking something in aluminum fin. I bet it would double my "time to smoke" on the motor.

Sarcastic asshole or really you just thought of it? Well if its the real deal, use a coper heat sink it works better with a 120mm fan.

If its stationary and you want to get crazy and I bet almost cure your overheat issues, you could try building a water cooled system. If you can get some shets of copper to create a box that connects snug to the case of the starter, low profile box with water entering and exit on one end, then run it to a small radiator with a fan and then to a holding tank... with a pump pumping away...... kind of like a computer setup. :grinpimp: Hell you could use a lot of the computer based water cooling system's parts.


And overpowered 12v 120mm fan should do the truck. :grinpimp:

[KiGrind]

fan is better way to go
the 1,500 osias has a fan & is 90% duty cycle

altenators use fans too, the later 12si has a much bigger fan and can be had in 94a, stock without:smokin: up to $125-150

Heatsinks pull the heat off the object a lot faster than a fan can keep up with the temp. Its why motors have radiators with little fins instead of a fan blowing on the engine. More surface area of the heat sink, better heat dissipation. It will absorb the heat energy, it will flow out to the fins, the air passing trough the fins will remove the heat. Keeps going.


With the water system, heat is transfered to the water, water is moved to the radiator which acts like a heat sink by absorbing the heat, fan cools the radiator.

[KiGrind]

Not a load problem at ALL:smokin: just heat after running for 4-5min. with no rest (air grinder). Thank U! I don't know why my dumb ass never thought of some type of heat sink:shaking::shaking: I'm thinking something in aluminum fin. I bet it would double my "time to smoke" on the motor.


And you need to post a guide on setting up such a system, make you very popular man.

[Mud in the blood]

On how to make the compressor? That's EASY! (with the Ford 9N tractor starter anyway)
1) Get a 9N starter motor (Ford tractor). I recommend DB Electrical (on line) due to the fact that they are cheep, and they build 'em good!
2) Get a York 210, or similar AC compressor.
3) Take the clutch on the comp. apart and strip it down to just the part that fits on the comp. shaft.
4) Get a set of 12T #40 (1 with 5/8" boar, 1 with the biggest boar they have) sprockets from the local farm supply (or who ever has them in your area) and a box of #40 chain.
5) If U have access to a lathe do it that way, if not pay some one to turn down the hub from the AC clutch to the ID of your big ID sprocket, and then weld the sprocket on to the hub.
6) make a bracket to mount the motor to the compressor (lots of ways to do it, use your imagination).
7) put the comp. and the motor together, slide the sprocket on the motor and get it in line with the sprocket on the comp. Now cross drill the sprocket and shaft on the motor and pin it, then cut the shaft off flush with the sprocket.
8) get a 200amp CONTINIOUS duty relay from Napa, and a standard compressor switch from anywhere.
9) wire the comp. switch to send signal to the 200amp relay, and the relay to power the motor.

BAM!!!!!!! Kick ass OBA! No tank necessary if U don't have the room:smokin:

[guidolyons]

For what the starter was made for, turning the chain really shouldn't be too much trouble for it should it? The heat it would produce could be combatted with some little copper heatsinks and maybe a 120mm fan..... just an idea if thats the issue.

Heatsinks pull the heat off the object a lot faster than a fan can keep up with the temp. More surface area of the heat sink, better heat dissipation. It will absorb the heat energy, it will flow out to the fins, the air passing trough the fins will remove the heat.


On how to make the compressor? That's EASY! (with the Ford 9N tractor starter anyway)
1) Get a 9N starter motor (Ford tractor). I recommend DB Electrical (on line) due to the fact that they are cheep, and they build 'em good!
2) Get a York 210, or similar AC compressor.
3) Take the clutch on the comp. apart and strip it down to just the part that fits on the comp. shaft.
4) Get a set of 12T #40 (1 with 5/8" boar, 1 with the biggest boar they have) sprockets from the local farm supply (or who ever has them in your area) and a box of #40 chain.
5) If U have access to a lathe do it that way, if not pay some one to turn down the hub from the AC clutch to the ID of your big ID sprocket, and then weld the sprocket on to the hub.
6) make a bracket to mount the motor to the compressor (lots of ways to do it, use your imagination).
7) put the comp. and the motor together, slide the sprocket on the motor and get it in line with the sprocket on the comp. Now cross drill the sprocket and shaft on the motor and pin it, then cut the shaft off flush with the sprocket.
8) get a 200amp CONTINIOUS duty relay from Napa, and a standard compressor switch from anywhere.
9) wire the comp. switch to send signal to the 200amp relay, and the relay to power the motor.

BAM!!!!!!! Kick ass OBA! No tank necessary if U don't have the room:smokin:

Mud in da Blood! The REDNECK Oasis :smokin: Although many would argue that you are exceeding the starter motor's duty cycle, who cares they are cheap and easy to replace. Buy 2 with lifetime warranties and you'll always have a spare.

KiGrind, that may be the first time in history that you have added a useful, significant contribution to the PBB :D

[SeaBass44]

Mud in da Blood! The REDNECK Oasis :smokin: Although many would argue that you are exceeding the starter motor's duty cycle, who cares they are cheap and easy to replace. Buy 2 with lifetime warranties and you'll always have a spare.
KiGrind, that may be the first time in history that you have added a useful, significant contribution to the PBB :D

not very honest is it:(

[SeaBass44]

On how to make the compressor? That's EASY! (with the Ford 9N tractor starter anyway)
1) Get a 9N starter motor (Ford tractor). I recommend DB Electrical (on line) due to the fact that they are cheep, and they build 'em good!
2) Get a York 210, or similar AC compressor.
3) Take the clutch on the comp. apart and strip it down to just the part that fits on the comp. shaft.
4) Get a set of 12T #40 (1 with 5/8" boar, 1 with the biggest boar they have) sprockets from the local farm supply (or who ever has them in your area) and a box of #40 chain.
5) If U have access to a lathe do it that way, if not pay some one to turn down the hub from the AC clutch to the ID of your big ID sprocket, and then weld the sprocket on to the hub.
6) make a bracket to mount the motor to the compressor (lots of ways to do it, use your imagination).
7) put the comp. and the motor together, slide the sprocket on the motor and get it in line with the sprocket on the comp. Now cross drill the sprocket and shaft on the motor and pin it, then cut the shaft off flush with the sprocket.
8) get a 200amp CONTINIOUS duty relay from Napa, and a standard compressor switch from anywhere.
9) wire the comp. switch to send signal to the 200amp relay, and the relay to power the motor.

BAM!!!!!!! Kick ass OBA! No tank necessary if U don't have the room:smokin:


if you are going twin 12t sprockets, 1:1 might as well just make a coupler shaft, would be simplier & less work. it could even fit shafts of different diameter of motor & compressor.

+ while you are buying a motor at DB, you can get a winch motor for $90-150 that is already rated higher duty cycle and a proven design.


as far as heatsink better......oasis uses a fan on there $1495 model to achive 90% duty cycle and I nelive so does warn on there power plant winch to get a 30 minute run time, 50% duty cycle:)

[guidolyons]

not very honest is it:(

Ah...you're right. I rescind my previous comment...probably couldn't exchange them after you welded a sprocket on the shaft anyway :laughing::laughing:


Now, where did I put that extra bellhousing and flywheel....:confused: :laughing:

[SeaBass44]

Ah...you're right. I rescind my previous comment...probably couldn't exchange them after you welded a sprocket on the shaft anyway :laughing::laughing:


Now, where did I put that extra bellhousing and flywheel....:confused: :laughing:


:) I have restored faith & respect for my fellow wheeler now;)

[guidolyons]

Thanks SeaBass :cool:
OK now for some tech related questions:
Mud in da blood, did you try any other tooth count sprockets to change the drive ratio?

I see from the DB electrical website that the Ford 9N starter is not like a typical automotive starter (with the case and pilot bushing) and has a longer shaft. I see how the 9N starter would work, you mentioned using a SBC starter?
Inquiring minds want to know.

Seabass...hmmmm....series wound winch motor...only $86 still would still need a bearing support of some kind.

[SeaBass44]

Thanks SeaBass :cool:
OK now for some tech related questions:
Mud in da blood, did you try any other tooth count sprockets to change the drive ratio?

I see from the DB electrical website that the Ford 9N starter is not like a typical automotive starter (with the case and pilot bushing) and has a longer shaft. I see how the 9N starter would work, you mentioned using a SBC starter?
Inquiring minds want to know.

Seabass...hmmmm....series wound winch motor...only $86 still would still need a bearing support of some kind.

I forgot the winch motor is unsuported untill mounted.......I might have to pull apart my oasis to see how it all works, for all I know it doesn't work at all, I bought it used & was told it may not work, or the guy had a dead battery........got it cheap enough to not care, I'll fix it if it don't work, just too busy all the time

[Mud in the blood]

I am using a SBC starter now, I machined the end housing to take an adapter plate that holds a bearing to support the shaft just past the windings. That way I have shaft sticking out to put the sprocket on. I had to machine the shaft a little as well. If U have access to a lathe than it's not to hard, but if U don't it would be a PITA and cost some $$ to get a shop to do it. The 1st one I made (5 years ago) with the 9N starter is still going strong on the 1st motor (from DB) and it still gets used every weekend:smokin: That thing puts out more air than my 3hp 20gal. shop compressor, and that's with NO TANK! I thought about under driving it, but it was never an issue so why mess with success:D

[SeaBass44]

I have a lathe;)

great investment, put it to work so it paid for it'self & the tooling

[Mud in the blood]

Well then, U CAN do it :smokin: I just cut the nose cone down to the point where the window for the flywheel starts. Then I tuned out a puck that fit the I.D. of the cone (press fit) and had a recess for a 1.5"ODx.5"IDx.5" bearing (slight press fit w/ red lock-tight) and then turned down the motor shaft from just past the windings on out (to 1/2") and slapped the motor back together.

As for doing it with a direct coupler, the problem is that the shaft on the compressor is tapered with a center bolt that holds the flange on. You could turn down the shaft on that as well, but the chain is a lot easier to set up.

[Adam F]

How much HP would you need to turn a York? I was thinking of mounting up a small 2 stroke engine to it.

[Mud in the blood]

A buddy of mine (2nd hand info. here) made one with a 210 and the 23cc 2 stroke from one of the little scooters. He has it geared @ 2:1 and says it works great.

[the glassman]

i found a motor out of an electric pallet jack from a forklift junk yard for 20 bucks and its designed to be continuous duty.

it looks just like a chevy starter but has 2 polls at on end(+)(-) but the body isnt grounded

i think the starters heat up because it uses its body as a ground