30x48 pole building, 16' door centered on one end, planning on a trench drain inside the door. How much slope should I have in the concrete floor to get the water to run but not my sockets that fall on the floor? Maybe have the first 24' flat then start the slope to the door at the last 24'? Looking for suggestions. What has worked for you?

I like it flat! As for water puddling, I have this nifty high-tech tool that takes care of this, it's called a mop.

Maybe have the first 24' flat then start the slope to the door at the last 24'?


Sounds to me like you answered your own question. A true flat secion of floor is great for fabing stuff that needs to be square. A little slope to the drain is great when you bring in dripping wet vehicles. FWIW, it takes very little slope to get water to run to the drain. Just make sure not to put the drain in higher then the floor. I've worked in ashop where you have to squeege the water uphill to the floor drain.:shaking: A 'good' contractor poured that floor.:eek:

Michael

When I built my garage I had the concrete guys put in a 2 degree slope for water run off............It sucks for fab work and trying to make things square. In addition the 2 degree slope is not enough of an angle for water to drain out of the garage. I pull a wet car in the garage and 2 days later the water is still stitting there, not enough slope for the water tension.

Next time I'll have a flat concrete pad and a mop:)

Next time I'll have a flat concrete pad and a mop:)

Expect a completely unreasonable argument from your concrete guys about flat floors. Apparently, they are unaware of such tools as mops and squeegees.

1" in 10' is around minimum for the decks we build for the exact reason of water drainage. should work for the floor.

1" every 10' is what we put in our shop, and what we typically do when preping for shops or garages, but in my experience and as other have stated, the water doesnt really run off.

From a contractor's point of view, 1/4 per foot is typical to get water to run (Drain pipe sewer pipe, that kind of thing) you can get by with 1/8 per foot, but it's not the best.

2yrs ago when I built my garage (30x42) I had the floor poured dead flat. I figured I can use a broom/squeegee when the water gets to deep. (I've haven't had to squeegee water yet

I'm glad I built mine flat, but that's just my humble thoughts.

The flatter the better, and have it polished to a high sheen finish.

A good neoprene squeegee and a mop will make short work of cleaning your floors.

Flat and polished.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys. 1/8" per foot would be 3" in 24', unaceptable to me. Even 1" per 10' seems like a lot. I've decided to go flat. I'm surprised how many suggested that. It will be simpler and cheaper, the trench drain I was looking at would be about $400 for the kit. And where it would be, will be in the way of the cement truck getting to the back of the building.
Anyone know a ballpark figure to hire the finish work done on a 30x48 4" thick?

Get 6" if you plan on getting a lift or having any heavy machinery in there...

You'll only need 4" for a lift.

I just bought one and all of the manufacturers I looked at specified 4". The additional 2" of concrete would most likely be wasted $.

It's already been decided but I still want to echo the suggestion of going flat. Anything else sucks balls for fab work. I also agree that 99% of contractors will look at you like you're crazy when you tell them you want it flat. Tell them to fawk off, you're paying the bill.

To combat the slop in my floor I bought my jack stands from a pipefitter. They are rated at 2500 lbs each and they have a threaded part that I can adjust to match one of those self leveling laser beams. Works perfectly everytime. Another plus is that they are tall enough to lift my jeep at the frame for when I am doing work where I need to unload the suspension.

here is a link to stands similier to what i have:

http://www.realcheaptools.com/page/page/788487.htm

No plans for a lift but, hey you never know. No heavy equiptment other than truck and Jeep.
Anyone hire their finish work or is everyone doing it themself?

No plans for a lift but, hey you never know. No heavy equiptment other than truck and Jeep.
Anyone hire their finish work or is everyone doing it themself?

My dad is a general contractor, so we done all the flat concrete work ourselves. The concrete basement walls I paid to have done. My house is 1550 sq. ft. and the garage is 26 x 30 and I rented a power trowel for both. It was mucho easier than hiring 5 finishers for that much work.

I built a 1500sf shop and wanted at least a third of it (its a three bay shop)
to be as flat as possible for fabrication purposes. I wish I would have had the last foot or two sloped. when it does rain (not that often in my part of the desert) it will run into the garage a bit.
The flat area work well for fabbing though. If its not level, I know its the project and not the floor!

Rick

I built a 1500sf shop and wanted at least a third of it (its a three bay shop)
to be as flat as possible for fabrication purposes. I wish I would have had the last foot or two sloped. when it does rain (not that often in my part of the desert) it will run into the garage a bit.
Rick

To combat rain getting into the building though overhead doors, incorporate a shallow "trench" where the door comes down. We usually press a 1x4 laid flat into the concrete once it has been screeded.

As for finish work, I don't know what prices are like up there in WA, but HIRE IT OUT! whatever it costs, it will be worth it. Working concrete into a form and getting it level isn't rocket science, but getting a good finish is an art form.

go visit the shops of a few local contractors and ask them who finished their floors, if they're not to old (the shops) my guess is a you'll soon find the guy you want.

Good luck!