I was trying to replace my u-joints in my dana 60 front today and the fawqers wouldn't budge! I managed to get off all the c-clips that hold them in place, but after lots of pounding and pressing with my vise the caps wouldn't budge! I even went out and bought a bigger vise, but that didn't work either! Anyway, I'm taking them to my buddy's machine shop tomorow. Hydraulic power, baby! But for future reference, is there anything I can do about this in the future? I was thinking that if I was in the middle of nowhere and busted a u-joint, I would be up the creek without a paddle.

J. J.

a bfh and a socket to fit the caps.... and hit that mo fo hard! a little 3m penetrating fluid helps too

Yep, what he said. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

How's a 6-lbs. sledge with a 6'1" 220 lbs. guy behind it for 3 hours straight? You'd think that would do it!

J. J.

having a stuck cap on a busted joint in the field is one of my big fears.

Call me a wack job but when I put my joints together (expec in the axles 'cause they stay in longer) I hose 'em down with WD-40 before I put them in the bore. I then procede to shoot them with penetrating oil when ever I have the ole grease gun out. I even shoot P-oil on the joints in junk I buy hoping it will make it easier when the time comes.

I don;t know if it really works but it seems like I have less trouble getting joints out then some of my friends.....or it could just be that I own bigger hammers..... <IMG SRC="smilies/rolleyes.gif" border="0">

i bought a ball joint press from advanced auto for like 80 bucks... cause i couldnt see spending 250 for one from mac. Even with that and my big fat ass crankin on it in the vice it was a bitch. What works the best is set the fawker on the floor and stand on the wrench for the press. I had to crank it hard about a dozen times before it broke free a bit.

Yeah, I bent the handle in the brand new vise that I bought and still nothing!

J. J.

I use anti-seize on all my UJs. They slide right out when its time...Just make sure the front axle ones are secured good.

cutting torch, cut the damn things in half to ge tthe cross out and the caps come out easy. Actuall what I've found works better on the forged cross shafts is a big arc welder and big ass electrod, turn welder to highest setting and get to cutting. Works fast and easy its more fun then the torch in my opinin just for the cool factor <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0"> so basicly once you get that bitch out don't worry about trail repairs, the caps usually spit out anyway and are easy to get out once the cross is gone.

Short of cutting or burning them out, this is the best way, trust me on this (Canadian winters)
http://www.outdoorwire.com/content/4x4/tech/axle/ujoint/

Originally posted by BillaVista:
<STRONG>Short of cutting or burning them out, this is the best way, trust me on this (Canadian winters)
http://www.outdoorwire.com/content/4x4/tech/axle/ujoint/</STRONG>

I did trust you on this and it didn't work. I believe I read it from an earlier post of yours.

J. J.

[ 10-14-2001: Message edited by: patooyee ]

Hah did the same thing today, I got the joints out no problem, then I busted my vice, the whole thing exploded ( 5 foot leverage bar ). Then I proceeded to use my ujoint tool and busted 3 caps. Then I just gave up for the day. I guess I gotta get a new vice. Good idea for next time is allot of <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> .

BillaVista --- thanks for that link and the idea. I'm gonna make up a similar tool based on that principle that will apply an optional "tension" to assist the caps in coming out...much like a pitman puller where you tighten the bolt that pulls on the arms real tight and lightly tap the bolt to "shock" it off kind of thing. Thanks.

I had trouble getting ujoints out until someone showed me this. Never had a problem since.

Place the ujoint horizontal cross on top of (not in) the vise (or two closely placed rocks). Then hit the YOKE with a hammer. This will force the top cap up and out of the vertical yoke. Flip and do the other side (s).

This obviously works best for a full intact ujoint.

I'd only use the socket and BFH method (which is not easy to do) if the cross was totally Fogarty-ed.

Charly

[ 10-15-2001: Message edited by: Charly ]

My front D44 was like that, rusted solid. Had to sawzall the crosses out of both joints, then the caps could be removed one at a time

Originally posted by Charly:
<STRONG>I had trouble getting ujoints out until someone showed me this. Never had a problem since.

Place the ujoint horizontal cross on top of (not in) the vise (or two closely placed rocks). Then hit the YOKE with a hammer. This will force the top cap up and out of the vertical yoke. Flip and do the other side (s).

This obviously works best for a full intact ujoint.

I'd only use the socket and BFH method (which is not easy to do) if the cross was totally Fogarty-ed.

Charly

[ 10-15-2001: Message edited by: Charly ]</STRONG>

hmmm hard to make this word to image conversion in my mind. Like reading a pommel horse routine.. "baily, double flop to the end, flair magyar..." just hard to picture with out seeing it.

ooops sorrry... har har.. lost yall on that one.... any way.. can u draw out crudly what ur describing here on how u put this thing in the vice and hammered it? or take a pic?

Thanks.

Damn, and I thought I had described it well this time.

It's not "in" the vise. It more accurately on the vise. Open the jaws just enough to allow you to rest the cross on top of the jaws (the horizontal caps on the jaws..these won't be removed right now) then hit the yoke (this yoke is the yoke that's in a vertical orientation right now- bottom cap is sitting below the top of the vice jaws). Hitting the yoke will pop the topmost cap up and out of the vertically oriented yoke (have had all kinds come out easily).

Then flip and do the others.

Sorry no dig. camera right now.

Is this clear to anyone else? Can you help me explain this?

Charly

Not a field fix but a press works great in the shop. I did mine with a press and had no prob. Also spray some zep on it and leave it for some time and then it may come out.

You can buy a press that is small and portable that cost around 100 bucks. We use a larger version on the big trucks that works well. Try removing a 1810 u joint that is being a biatch. <IMG SRC="smilies/devil.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Charly:
<STRONG>Damn, and I thought I had described it well this time.

It's not "in" the vise. It more accurately on the vise. Open the jaws just enough to allow you to rest the cross on top of the jaws (the horizontal caps on the jaws..these won't be removed right now) then hit the yoke (this yoke is the yoke that's in a vertical orientation right now- bottom cap is sitting below the top of the vice jaws). Hitting the yoke will pop the topmost cap up and out of the vertically oriented yoke (have had all kinds come out easily).

Then flip and do the others.

Sorry no dig. camera right now.

Is this clear to anyone else? Can you help me explain this?

Charly</STRONG>

| Ujount
---
[]|[]
[] [] vise/rocks

Now where are u hitting it to make the cap pop up?

When I did the front axle u-joints on my 7, I had to resort to a 20-ton press. U-joint tool did nothing. BFHammer and socket did nothing. Those bastid u-joints just laughed at me. <IMG SRC="smilies/mad.gif" border="0">

So I took 'em to a friends place where we could use a press. When I put 'em in there, 2 of the caps blew apart before the joint would move. Even on the press, it took over 10 minutes per joint to get the fawking things out.

You hit on the yoke, it will be vertical (this can be the axleshaft or driveshaft yoke)this forces the yoke down and the cap (top cap) up and out of the yoke.

You hit the yoke -not directly above/around the cap-, but between the cap and the shaft. You will be hitting downward (remember the yoke will be in a vertical position).

bBelieve me it works like a charm.

Charly,

I believe you <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
And you described it well.

The pics in the link I posted show it too.

I've never seen one not work using this method...but who knows.....?

Sorry Bill.

I never opened your link (just did though), but noticed a reply to it regarding a press of some sort, so I thought that's what yours was about.

I had never seen this method described online or in the mags, always that damn socket and hammer one. That method is useful if the cross is damaged in such a way that you can't rest it on anything.

And the ujoints I've used it on have been over 25 years old (originals) that were rusted to shit.

Charly

man 25 years old! What I want to know is how you get your u joints to last so long. I have a 2000 tj and I have already had to go through and change them. I keep them greased and everything. I guess that is why I didn't have any trouble getting them out.

You're kidding right?

Charly
Rock God

Member # 1482

posted 10-17-2001 03:25 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You're kidding right?
--------------------
no i am not it was so bad that the yokes were hitting eachother.

I meant about me using the same ujoints for 25 years, these came out of a salvage yard vehicle that was frozen to the ground, it was a 77.

Originally posted by TeraTJ:
<STRONG>man 25 years old! What I want to know is how you get your u joints to last so long. I have a 2000 tj and I have already had to go through and change them. I keep them greased and everything. I guess that is why I didn't have any trouble getting them out.</STRONG>

Purchase Bruite Force U joints. To hell with the Spicer joints.

Warrenty is cool.

As for the u joint in the vice thingy. That is exactly why I carry a vice on my Jeep.
If I had a JU sig you would know its right next to my flashlight. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

now that i look back at what i said about the 25 years, it was pritty <IMG SRC="smilies/rainbow.gif" border="0"> But my u joints came apart hella easy.

Purchase Bruite Force U joints. To hell with the Spicer joints
that is what i put in it this time i hope that they last longer.

OK, I took them out today! It only took 16 tons of hydraulic pressure! Three of the caps shattered before they came out, too!I'm damn glad I didn't waste more time hammering on them! I sanded the races in the yokes and oiled them up good before pressing in new ones this time. Maybe that will make next time easier.

J. J.

Originally posted by TeraTJ:
<STRONG> Purchase Bruite Force U joints. To hell with the Spicer joints
that is what i put in it this time i hope that they last longer.</STRONG>

No thank you, I burned up a Brute Force 1310 in my XJ in 6 months. Spicers for me.

ChiXJeff