hey all.

here are some drawings for diy beadlock rings ala rockstomper.

ring 1 only has small holes where the bolts should go should you want to drill them yourself (or if the fitting cutter you use cant do something that small very well), ring 2 has full sized holes.

3 filetypes- .pdf, .dxf, and .dwg of both ring 1 and ring 2.

these (obviously) only work for 15" wheels.

have fun-
indulf

diy beadlock drawings (http://www.adamblack.net)

I'm not sure what u are getting at? they look like normal beadlocks to me what is the difference?

the difference is you get these rings cut out at a metal fabrication shop with a cnc machine rather than buying them from somewhere else.

the .drw is an autocad file in case you want to change it, the .drx file is the proper format for most cnc fitting cutters.

indulf

Originally posted by indulf
the difference is you get these rings cut out at a metal fabrication shop with a cnc machine rather than buying them from somewhere else.

the .drw is an autocad file in case you want to change it, the .drx file is the proper format for most cnc fitting cutters.

indulf

Now that explains a lot. :beer: s to you

WoW man thats too cool. I can load that DXF file straight to the CNC here at work and my very own beadlocks will spit out at the burn table. SAWEETTTTTTTTTT!!!!

You deserve a few :beer: for this post:D:D:D

Oh yeah WELCOME NEWBIE:flipoff2:


Although not a bad way to start out:smokin:

Sorry to post again, but after opening the files i notice the OD is exactly 15". I could be wrong but isnt the OD a little larger for the DIY kits. They weld on the outer lip which(again sorry if im wrong) is larger. The actual bead where the tire seats is 15" isnt it not the lip where the inner ring welds on?

Anyone know for sure?:eek:

Originally posted by YJ4RoX
Sorry to post again, but after opening the files i notice the OD is exactly 15". I could be wrong but isnt the OD a little larger for the DIY kits. They weld on the outer lip which(again sorry if im wrong) is larger. The actual bead where the tire seats is 15" isnt it not the lip where the inner ring welds on?

Anyone know for sure?:eek:

uhm, yeah, these rings only work for a 14" tire..... way to go newbie!!!:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

I'm lookin at my 'lock kits here in autocad as we speak, 16" OD, 12.5" ID 28 countersunk holes evenly spaced on a 13.75" bolt circle. Now if i could just find someone here in town with a damn CNC plasma cutter i could find someone to cut the fawkin things cheap.

hrm

it was a long, boring day at work yesterday.

i need to re-measure, i might not have been thinking straight.

ill redraw them if necessary and post when they're fixed up.

if anyone knows the measurement right off hand (for a 15" wheel) i can do it quick, otherwise itll have to wait til probably early next week.

dont go cuttin them yet!


indulf

i cant wait for my
:beer:
this afternoon. its on the company :)

Originally posted by sceep


uhm, yeah, these rings only work for a 14" tire..... way to go newbie!!!:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

I'm lookin at my 'lock kits here in autocad as we speak, 16" OD, 12.5" ID 28 countersunk holes evenly spaced on a 13.75" bolt circle. Now if i could just find someone here in town with a damn CNC plasma cutter i could find someone to cut the fawkin things cheap.

Hey! don't fawk with him like that. I need some beadlocks for my ricer! :flipoff2:


Anyone know of a CNC in teh seattle area that won't rape you if you have the files setup already?

sorry guys, im a dork :)

OD i got is 16-5/16", so Ill redraw them today sometime.

sceep, i know of a place thatll cut them cheep here in atlanta, but shipping would probably make you take a dump if you build them out of 1/4".

lemme know if you're interested and ill find out how much they want to cut em and ship em.

and ill redraw so all you guys are happy with my newbie ass :flipoff2:

indulf

16.3125" is way to big man.. you'll never get the inside bead over that lip. Even @ 16.000" its a tight fit. That is the normal dimension for the outter lip on a 15" rim that you useually need a tire machine to pull. LOL... how bout you save everyone some hassles and get out of the 'lock buisness.:rolleyes:

Originally posted by sceep
16.3125" is way to big man.. you'll never get the inside bead over that lip. Even @ 16.000" its a tight fit. That is the normal dimension for the outter lip on a 15" rim that you useually need a tire machine to pull. LOL... how bout you save everyone some hassles and get out of the 'lock buisness.:rolleyes:

what he said

You're both on glue. Just measured at 16 3/16".:flipoff2:

Originally posted by indulf
sceep, i know of a place thatll cut them cheep here in atlanta, but shipping would probably make you take a dump if you build them out of 1/4".

...and if you build 'em out of less than 1/4" steel, they don't hold up well enough (IMHO) to be worth putting on. That's why ours are 1/4" steel.

Day Motorsports http://www.daymotorsports.com sells Aero outer rings for as little as about $30 apiece.

Summit Racing sells Bart locks for $50 a wheel (in kit form).

There's also reasons behind how ours are cut (not just the dimensions).

I didn't bother to download the CAD files, but from checking the proportions on the PDF's, the bolt circle is too big to clear the wheel shell when the bolts go through the inner ring.

Just thought I'd point that out... you might want to do more than just redimension 'em. :p

Originally posted by sceep
16.3125" is way to big man.. you'll never get the inside bead over that lip. Even @ 16.000" its a tight fit. That is the normal dimension for the outter lip on a 15" rim that you useually need a tire machine to pull. LOL... how bout you save everyone some hassles and get out of the 'lock buisness.:rolleyes:

if i was in business i wouldnt have given out my shitty plans for free :)

indulf

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper


...and if you build 'em out of less than 1/4" steel, they don't hold up well enough (IMHO) to be worth putting on. That's why ours are 1/4" steel.

Day Motorsports http://www.daymotorsports.com sells Aero outer rings for as little as about $30 apiece.

Summit Racing sells Bart locks for $50 a wheel (in kit form).

There's also reasons behind how ours are cut (not just the dimensions).

i wasnt planning on doing anything less than 1/4"..

and besides, this place is a good sounding board. i obviously need to know stuff like this to do it right, so thanks for the input :)

as far as the ring, i will make it wider and move the bolts in. thanks for the heads up.

why buy when i can get the steel from my scrap heap for free and i have a cnc fitting cutter at my disposal? :)

thanks
indulf

Originally posted by indulf
...........why buy when i can get the steel from my scrap heap for free and i have a cnc fitting cutter at my disposal? :)

thanks
indulf

I personally dont have any problem with you doing them yourself.

I do have a problem with you posting "blueprints" for everyone to waste their $$$ on when they build them to your specs and they are all wrong, wont fit, and are potentially dangerous. Next time you want to do this how bout you test the design first. then post.

Originally posted by indulf
i wasnt planning on doing anything less than 1/4"..

Glad to hear it. You'll be happier that way.

as far as the ring, i will make it wider and move the bolts in. thanks for the heads up.

You've got some dimensions to check--I'm deliberately not going to hand them to you. Check the ID of the wheel, and where the bolts need to go once they're through the inner ring. Also check the nut and/or washer backside clearance needed, depending on what you're using. You can obviously run CAD... can you reverse-engineer a wheel?

why buy when i can get the steel from my scrap heap for free and i have a cnc fitting cutter at my disposal? :)

Note that I didn't say "give up and just buy mine"? If you've got the tooling and material available, more power to ya.

Funny thing is, more often than not, guys who call here looking for info on how to DIY... end up calling back 'cause it was too much work or too expensive. If you can make your own that work, go for it. The last guy I talked to who built his own, said he'd never try that again.

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper

Funny thing is, more often than not, guys who call here looking for info on how to DIY... end up calling back 'cause it was too much work or too expensive. If you can make your own that work, go for it. The last guy I talked to who built his own, said he'd never try that again.

lol... i hear that, I've been working on my beadlock design for about 2-months now. Finally got it purfected and happy with how they will look and function. But i'll be DAMNED if i can find someone w/in driving distance that has a CNC plasma cutter to cut these things on. The quotes i've recieved from the Milling machine boys are OUTRAGEOUS and i think a CNC plasma or laser cutter is the cheapest way out.

Scott, if you dont mind, What do you cut yours with?

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper

You've got some dimensions to check--I'm deliberately not going to hand them to you. Check the ID of the wheel, and where the bolts need to go once they're through the inner ring. Also check the nut and/or washer backside clearance needed, depending on what you're using. You can obviously run CAD... can you reverse-engineer a wheel?

i do appreciate not being just handed the measurements and instructions. there isnt any other way to learn :)

Note that I didn't say "give up and just buy mine"? If you've got the tooling and material available, more power to ya.

Funny thing is, more often than not, guys who call here looking for info on how to DIY... end up calling back 'cause it was too much work or too expensive. If you can make your own that work, go for it. The last guy I talked to who built his own, said he'd never try that again. [/B]

well i can assure you of a couple of thingss.. if it turns out to be too much, yours are the only ones i would buy.

and secondly, im determined :) wish me luck!

indulf

Originally posted by sceep


I personally dont have any problem with you doing them yourself.

I do have a problem with you posting "blueprints" for everyone to waste their $$$ on when they build them to your specs and they are all wrong, wont fit, and are potentially dangerous. Next time you want to do this how bout you test the design first. then post.

well i do apologize.

looking back at my first post, i gave the impression that they were a finished design, ready to go on and work properly etc etc etc.

but i must say that anyone who would download those drawings, stick them in the cutter, and then find out they dont fit properly/work right is a moron and gets what they deserve.

the drawings were meant for people to look at and critique, which has happened, and i appreciate the knowledge of everyone (including you) that has responded.

ill make sure next time its 100% clear that something is in the initial stages in my head and on my computer..

indulf

Originally posted by sceep


lol... i hear that, I've been working on my beadlock design for about 2-months now. Finally got it purfected and happy with how they will look and function. But i'll be DAMNED if i can find someone w/in driving distance that has a CNC plasma cutter to cut these things on. The quotes i've recieved from the Milling machine boys are OUTRAGEOUS and i think a CNC plasma or laser cutter is the cheapest way out.

Scott, if you dont mind, What do you cut yours with?

call up some mechanical contracting firms that do HVAC construction.. any shop that fabs their own duct should have a CNC plasma, laser, or water jet machine. if you can talk them into it they will probably do it for super cheap. they can get the material too, just in case you want an all-in-one thing..

indulf

Originally posted by indulf


call up some mechanical contracting firms that do HVAC construction.. any shop that fabs their own duct should have a CNC plasma, laser, or water jet machine. if you can talk them into it they will probably do it for super cheap. they can get the material too, just in case you want an all-in-one thing..

indulf

cool.... WTF do HVAC contr. use plasma and laser for? Never - EVER would have thought of that. only water-jet in town is @ the marble slab company.

Originally posted by sceep


cool.... WTF do HVAC contr. use plasma and laser for? Never - EVER would have thought of that. only water-jet in town is @ the marble slab company.

most HVAC contractors shop out their sheet metal fabrication, but the bigger ones (like the one i work for) sometimes do their own in house. we cut all of our odd shaped fittings (basically anything not rectangular) with a plasma cnc machine, then the shop workers bend what needs to be bent and weld it all together. it comes out nice n pretty :)

if the HVAC places dont work, ask them who cuts their sheet metal, and try calling them.

indulf

wassup adam, your in TN now? looks like you've been busy. I'd love for you to set me up w/a set of beadlock kits if you get it all figured out.
later
bobby cox

That's true, one of the local sheetmetal guys has a CNC plasma cutter, uses it to do all the pre-fabbing of the HVAC stuff.

I know because I've got stacks and stacks of 6" galvanized sheet metal discs that he gave me. They make great pistol targets. :D

Originally posted by sceep
The quotes i've recieved from the Milling machine boys are OUTRAGEOUS and i think a CNC plasma or laser cutter is the cheapest way out.

Scott, if you dont mind, What do you cut yours with?

We can actually get the same rings that we use now, laser cut, for less $ than we're currently paying for 'em. We won't do it 'cause the laser leaves serrated hole inner diameters, and a serrated outer edge around the rings where the tires ride. The inner holes are close to round, but nowhere near close enough to seat a nutsert into. Quality issues, basically. The holes, in order to be used with nutserts, *must* be either drilled or punched. Have to be round and smooth.

The ID and OD, are plasma cut. The holes are punched. All on the same machine, all in one big collective operation. That's how we make sure that the bolt pattern is perfectly concentric, the holes are round and smooth, and the ID and OD don't have serrated sharp edges. It's really really really impressive to watch holes being punched, in 1/4" steel, at a rate of around 3 per *second*. :)

Incidentally, HVAC guys will probably have trouble actually holding a clean finished product in 1/4" steel. Most locally, anyway... you mention 1/4" steel around here, and they run in terror.

indulf:
How do you suggesting we convert the geometry file into CNC readable G code? Do you hand write your G code or do you use a Cad Cam program and post process the geo file.

Most shops wont want to write cnc programs for small production runs and one time buyers unless they are willing to pay a pretty penny.

That said, I am a machinist with access to all the trick CNC machine tools I could want and have the knowledege and experiance to make what ever I need, and I am considering buying the rockstomper beadlocks. His prices are very reasonable and his product is good. The only reason that I would ever think about building my own beadlocks is because of shipping. (Alaska usually = $1.5/lb+) Even with high shipping costs I beleive that buying them would actually be cheaper than making them if your time is worth much. If you have nothing but time to burn, go for it. Otherwise, your hard earned cash will be well spent on scott's beadlocks, or anyone elses for that matter.

Originally posted by bgreen
[B]indulf:
How do you suggesting we convert the geometry file into CNC readable G code? Do you hand write your G code or do you use a Cad Cam program and post process the geo file.

all our metal detailers have to do is save their cad file in the .dxf format and send it to the fitting cutter's computer over our network. the operator chooses the file to be cut, loads up the machine with the proper metal, hits start, and it cuts away. depending on the place you get stuff cut, they can or cant use the .dxf.. thats how we do it here :)

indulf

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper
3 per *second*. :)

3/second? damn, id love to see that

Incidentally, HVAC guys will probably have trouble actually holding a clean finished product in 1/4" steel. Most locally, anyway... you mention 1/4" steel around here, and they run in terror. [/B]

not only are we an HVAC contractor, but we do piping and plumbing work too. we build a lot of our own pipe hangers for concrete slabs out of 3/8" and 1/2" plate, and we use the cnc plasma machine to do it (i asked around and the laser is used for sheet metal, the operator said it was faster), and the finished product looks sharp. im not sure, but im guessing our equipment, since its used to do more than just your normal sheet metal, is more robust than what most HVAC people use.. :)

indulf

How do you suggesting we convert the geometry file into CNC readable G code? Do you hand write your G code or do you use a Cad Cam program and post process the geo file.

I work at a steel fab shop. This is part of my everyday job. My computer is wired to the cnc table here. Ours is pretty old, but I have a program that converts the .dxf files to a .cnc file. Its called Quickcam. The plasma table pulls the files straight from my hard drive.

you guys need to find a steel shop like ours. We do one off cnc work all the time. I have done about 2000 in the year i have worked here and we dont charge much at all.

Scott, the 3 holes/per sec is cool to watch. We have an angle master that can cut a 40' section of 3x3x5/16 angle into say 8" clips, punch 3 holes in each leg on every 8" piece. Cuts the hole 40'er up in about 90 secs on the highest setting. That thing is mean.

is ttey're any where that i can buy just the MRT outer ring?
Barts DIY beadlocks are ONLY 0.35 thousandths thick!! is there any other kit out there that is metal to metal and TUFF? i was just goin to get the MRT outer ring and make my oun center ring

try carmon safety lock. he makes those bart rings Ithink. mine are 32 bolt 7ga. 800-2906519 he sells the whole kit bolts and all for 69.95 per wheelhttp://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/795836-P1010021.jpg and he'll weld them on your wheel for $15 each.

Originally posted by riksnacjnow
try carmon safety lock. he makes those bart rings Ithink. mine are 32 bolt 7ga. 800-2906519 he sells the whole kit bolts and all for 69.95 per wheel

Our basic 15" kits are 32 bolt, 1/4" steel rings, starting at $70 a wheel. Guess we're pretty close. :)

We don't do metal to metal because it doesn't allow for different tire bead thicknesses... if they were laid out to be metal to metal on my 44 Boggers, they'd leak like a sieve on 35" BFG's. If they were laid out to be metal on metal with BFG's, they wouldn't be with Swampers.

PeeJ, you're probably gonna have to call MRT to get their outers.

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper


We don't do metal to metal because it doesn't allow for different tire bead thicknesses... if they were laid out to be metal to metal on my 44 Boggers, they'd leak like a sieve on 35" BFG's. If they were laid out to be metal on metal with BFG's, they wouldn't be with Swampers.


That makes sense. I was wondering why yours had no metal spacer. So if someone was to get bead locks from stocton wheel or Champion they would specify the size and brand of tire?

Scott could you incorporate a interchangable spacer for metal to metal mounting?

Somebody in another post mentioned a v-belt in the space between the plates. I actually just got through mounting up some 39.5 tsl's on my jeep and there was less room between the plates on these verses the 38.5 sx's I took off-BIG TIRES RULE!!
???? if you put a spacer in there wouldn't it transfer the "squish factor" to the bead instead of coning the ring. You would obviously have to get the right thickness figured out???

Oh yeah- your rings were 90 bones when I was looking, thats why I went with the other ones! plus I like the recessed bolt flange. great product though!

Originally posted by CJ
That makes sense. I was wondering why yours had no metal spacer. So if someone was to get bead locks from stocton wheel or Champion they would specify the size and brand of tire?

I don't have any idea if Champion, MRT, Stockton, or anyone else builds locks to specific tire sizes. I seriously doubt it.

Scott could you incorporate a interchangable spacer for metal to metal mounting?

Yeah, sure. Double the price of the beadlocks (that ring will have to be custom machined to each order) and we can do just about anything... considering that there are a number of options that work exceedingly well, and cost a lot less, I just don't see a need. Most of our customers ignore that there isn't metal to metal contact, as it's just not necessary. I personally run 44's, regularly, on the street, with nothing done other than standard beadlock install, and have no problems (aside from a rough ride) even airing up as far as 35psi (with the 44's). I don't normally air up that far, again, as it's just not necessary.

Originally posted by peeJ
ONLY 0.35 thousandths thick!!

:eek: Those are some serious rings!!! 0.350 is almost 3/8" Thick!!!:eek: :D