My sammy doesn't want to idle when cold, so i revert to keeping it idled with my foot on the go pedal til it's warm...then it runs fine.

The butterfly doesn't open and close right.. So i think the choke is all fawked up.

Any ideas/suggestions/Fixes!!!

Thanks

I wrapped a piece of bailing wire around the post and routed it into the carb to keep the butterfly cracked a little. Redneck engineering :D . My choke was all screwed up too, but I got all the vaccum hoses routed right and re-adjusted the idle and high-idle screws and now it works ok. I have found a lot of rigs with the idle screws all out of whack. A little tweaking of them has been the only fix needed most of the time.

thanks, I'll play with em' and see what happens.

Try this. I read it on Suzuki Johns site once and it cured my carb problems.

How to reset the choke setting on your carbureted Sammi:

The most common problem with Sammis is the choke setting...other things like timing can affect it but i'm sure you've already checked all of that... anyway what you do now is get a long flat head screwdriver and lay it on top of the same mount that your accelerator cable runs through before it gets to that large cam on the bottom of the carb that we talked about before...it is the same bracket or mount that the two 12 mm nuts are found that hold the cable adjustment... anyway that bracket is going to bend down a bit after you use it for the leverage you'll need to do the adjustment on this mark you need to make but don't worry about the bending because you can just bend it back up into place after you are done....you'll see what i mean after you do the adjustment...anyway, lay the handle of the flat head on the top of the bracket and then with the flat head of the screwdriver catch the end of the small cam that is pointed your way and push down on the handle of the screwdriver which will cause the bottom lobe of that cam to go up!!!!...so far so good???...now take a small nail or drill bit that will fit snugly into the hole that is in that same cam and you'll see that there is also a hole in the bracket above this small cam that when the lobe is pushed up flush with you can run the drill bit or nail all the way through both and whalah!!! The cam will stay in place now without your having to hold the screwdriver any more!!!...now what you need to do is use that same long flathead to slowly put pressure on the "l" or "c" shaped finger on the other end of this same small cam that we have been dealing with all this time... if you take a look at it you'll see how it is actuated by the thermocouple that comes down from the other housing above it...that thermocouple is actuated by water temperature from the two hoses that run into that same housing...anyway in order to get the idle down, you need to use the screwdriver tip to push that finger up.... do this process slowly and as you bend it a little at a time you'll see that the mark on the small cam will eventually line up with the rod we talked about before... that is where you need for it to be to operate correctly...remember that you need to bend a little...i'd say not more than 1/16th of an inch at a time; then remove the drill bit and see where you are and then repeat these small adjustments until the marks come into alignment...after that straighten the bracket back up that you bent and start your engine!!! You should be much happier