I have seen a number of different spring hanger's and different sizes of metal being used to hold the springs, from 1/4" - 1/2" I was thinking of 3/8". what would u guys run. I am going to copy Bones diagram of the spring hanger, but I don't think i need 1/2 metal like he ran. this will be about a 2" drop hanger with 2"x3"x0.25" wall tubing as the base.

Whe I make my new one I am going to use 1/2". I do not ant it to end up looking like this again.

Or this!!

Originally posted by OOP'S
Or this!! is that an allpro hanger?

if you box it you won't need more than .25".

Originally posted by poppycock
if you box it you won't need more than .25". This is what it now looks like. Yes it is an AP hanger, been on there for 3 years of my abuse.

I used 1/4" for my hanger, bigger is better, but properly braced it should do okay.

Later,
....Mike

http://www.toy4x4.net/sas/PIC00589.jpg

Mine is also an all 1/4" affair.

http://www.archerventures.com/upyours/images/deathstar.jpg

http://www.archerventures.com/upyours/images/deathstar2.jpg

so should i just go with 1/4, i have the 3/8 shit planned out already, and i think that i might as well go over kill than being to weak. I don't want it to bend or anything, i can always gusset it too.

Oh yeah, mine is also gussetted and boxed to the frame with some more of those triangles in the rear as well, no pics of that yet though sorry.

I would never go larger than 1/4. OOPS example is definately one of little support for the hanger ( I know its not your fault) Taco mikes is a sweet example of putting support where its needed (for his hanger total length), and petes is a good example for when your bit hang down farther (a short brace up front would be helpful here still)to prevent an OOP"S:flipoff2:
weldpro

why not go larger than 1/4:confused: isn't bigger always better:D

Balance & Application

You can make your hanger so F^%$^ strong like a bizzilion times stronger than your frame why? It is not neccessary and like everything else your just transferring the "weak link" somewhere higher in the 4X chain. A properly designed hanger can be made very light and be every bit as strong as someones HUNK of 3/8. Another problem I have with using PLATE is (I know alot of you are using scrap) cost it makes no sence to me but I will be the first to say "nice work" if the welding is decent , and design looks good.
weldpro

Boxed and Gusseted. I think this will do just fine!!!!!

www.members.cox.net/fourbychef/SAS/springhangerclose.jpg

www.members.cox.net/fourbychef/SAS/paintedhangerside.jpg

K-ton

Just out of curiousity weldpro, where exactly is this short brace up front needed in your opinion? And just in case you thought my whole hanger was plate, the actual spring hanger parts of it is 1/4" box with the bottom cut off and re-used as the plate across the front of each one. :D

Actually Pete I don't think it is mandatory in fact I probably would not do it but IF you wanted to brace it up even more you could by adding another triangular gusset to the front of both crossmember & hanger . No big though I think what you have looks fine.
weldpro

I agree w/ weldpro, anything over 1/4" gets out of hand.

http://home.off-road.com/~bibelheimer/images/hanger_top.jpg

http://home.off-road.com/~bibelheimer/images/xmember.jpg

I suppose I could have boxed mine in a bit more, but they are holding up great as-is (and they DO get abused).
They definitely won't be doing the twist thing like OOP's second picture though!

Nicely Done ErikB- fine example of good design!;)
weldpro

Nice spring hangers, is there a reason everyone runs tube thats 3-3.5 inches wide, or could i run 2.5 inch tubeing. reason is this would be really easy to incorperate a 2" reciever into it if all the tube was the same size. :question: thanx for the help guys and i think that i am going to use 5/16" material for the hanger and 2.5"x2.5"x0.25" wall square tube with a reciever built into the middle. and then make it look exacty like tacomikes hanger and erikB's reciever :D

:question:

I helped WheeliePete design and fab this one up. Sure the rig is still in the garage and has no trail time on it but I highly doubt this will fail. The buckets are made out of 3 1/2 X 3 1/2 X .1875 wall A-500 square tube (for wagoneers). This hanger is about a 1 1/2 drop and 3/4" forward from stock.

http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/drop_hanger.gif

http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Front02.JPG

http://www.cascadecrawlers.com/uploads/Pete/x-over/Rear01.jpg

Would like to add that I have gussetted the receiver (it is also welded around the top as well as a 1" plug weld through the angle) and we plan on incorporating some kind of angle or ramp on the face of the spring buckect so nothing can hit it square on. Probably build it in as part of the winch bumper mount We haven't put that on yet as we need to look at approach angle when we get the tires back on. I also plug welded the three holes in the front to the tube that I welded in behind the angle. The body mount brackets have been welded to the angle, and there are two plug welds along with a full weld across the back edge of the angle under the x-member. I may go back and add two small triangle gussets to the rear edge of the buckets also. With the ramps on the front of the buckets that should do a lot for a head on smack on the bucket.

ErikB, I noticed the second set of holes on your spring hanger. I ran into a similar problem when I redid my SAS and will be drilling new holes to clear the oil pan :mad: If I ahd a digi cam, I'd post pics of my hanger it is all .25" and is a very sound design, IMO.

The original holes are in the "stock" location front to back. Originally I had planned on using Toy rear springs in front which move the axle forward 2" just from the springs (center pin offset).

After the SAS, the spring pack I built out of Toy rears was too soft and I had death wobble, etc. so I made a new spring pack, but the new springs I used didn't move the axle forward, so I re-drilled the hangers 1" forward (like AP's hanger) and then drilled new holes in the perches too, so the axle still ended up 2" forward...

Now I just have a lot of choices. :rasta:


Pitter, use whatever size tube or angle you want for the crossmember.
The 3.5" square, 1/4" wall just works really well for the hangers themselves because the 3" ID matches up perfectly for Waggy/Chevy style springs and bushings, and works w/ Toy width springs & bushings pretty well too w/ a couple of washers as shims. Waggys need 3" ID, Toy 2-3/4".

so can i use 2.5x2.5 inch square tube, the exact same as a trailer hitch reciever? not something like 3.5X2 inches, is there a reason for running wider material?:confused: :confused: mines going to look like tacomamike's. and made out of 5/16" metal, with a 2" drop. thanx for the help but will 2.5" square tube work

:confused: