I WANT TO BE ABLE TO PULL MY DOORS OFF WITH NO WRENCHES......LIKE SOFT DOORS OR SOMETHING.......HOW DO YOU GUYS DO IT.......

you got a cruiser man? you might want to check there. but if you want to do it for a truck or runner check my page under mods. just did mine and have taken them off at a stop light before. talk about getting wierd looks.

http://www.csupomona.edu/~cdcabrera/

Toy P/U or Cruzah? I will assume toy p/u...
I have seen folks use pins with spring clips for quick disconnect. Basically they take out the factory hinge pin and replace it with a similar sized pin that fits loose in the hinge pin hole, secure it on the bottom with a clip thru a hole drilled in the bottom of the new pin...
A bad option would be to leave the doors open and drive in reverse towards a telephone pole....Quick but not perfered!:eek: :skull:

http://www.tankota.com/hinge.htm

Pull teh hinges off (one time only), grind off the head on the center pin, carefully punch it out. Go to a local hardware store and find a clasp pin that fits where the old pin did, buy 4 of them (mine were $.98 /ea) Reinstall the hinges on the door and realign the door. I made soem fabric half doors that slide into the remainder of teh hinge when teh doors are off. I also used some flat 4-prong trailer light connectros for my door speakers. It takes 5 minutes to swap doors.

Originally posted by LONG84
http://www.tankota.com/hinge.htm

Here's a pic of those:
http://www.dough-boy.com/My_Truck/hinges.JPG

And install instructions:
http://www.dough-boy.com/My_Truck/Tankota_Hinge_Install/tankota_hinge_install.html

I did this mod (finally) and it took about 2 hours. Everyone says to take the hinges off, I didn't. I just used an angle grinder to cut the hinge pin in two at its center. They two halves of the pin almost drop out after that. The door side of the hinge is easy - knock out a brass bushing and drill it to 3/8". Drill the truck side hinges to 3/8" - need a small drill to get alignment - a big honkin John Wayne sized drill wont line up correctly.

Go to Home Depot or Lowes and purchase 4 3/8" linch pins for about $1 each (they are with the nuts, bolts, washers etc) and oil the little detent ball real well. Then hold the door in place and drop the pins in place. The first few times they go kinda hard, but they get easier each time.

Your door alignment will not be as good as some other solutions and as the factory setup because the door-side hinge will drop slightly in between the halves of the truck side hinge.

Total investment in this mod is about $5, excluding the prerequisite liquid refreshment:beer:

:D
I'm so PROUD that no one said to use the "SEARCH" button
:flipoff2:

I made a set of the quick release pins but I found that the pins made the door to wobbley so I went back to the regular style. With a 1/4 drive rat-shit it goes pretty quick anyhow.

i first did it the way Alabamatoy did and found it to be a huge PITA to get the doors on and off, so then went to tankota design. my doors dont have any slop, however i used the door and roof to press myself up enuogh to get into the bed this weekend when i got stuck muddin and it bent a bit. havent looked and it yet but im sure a BFH will fix it.

hey-

the stock door hinge bushings are 8mm (0.315 dia). I used 5/16 Cap Screw's w/ a 2" shoulder, cut off the threads, and drilled #39 (0.099 dia) holes thru the ends for 3/32 hitch pins. The shoulder bolts fit the bushings with very little slop, and the hitch pins are easy to remove. the advantage of using a cap screw is that the head is already small enough in dia to clear the bolts on the door.

it takes me less than 5 min's to remove or install the doors--

the original hinge pins are pressed into the hinge- and may take some pressure to remove them. after sloting them with a grinder, I used a large screw driver to force the apart. It took me a couple of hours to do w/ the mandatory Sat. afternoon :beer: breaks-

later

buy those cool ratchet wrenches

I also did the clasp trick on a set of hinges and ended up being too much play for my likeing after awhile. Went back to the original hinges and velcroed a ratchet wrench in the glove box. I also put small length bolts in them. (less spinning).

Easiest way to do quick release doors? Keep a 12mm ratcheting box-end wrench in the glove box. Takes 5 minutes to do the doors, on or off.

No drilling & cutting, no slop. Cost me about seven bucks at sears for te craftsman one.

call me stupid, but why not just unbolt the doors? I know it has something to do with aligning the door after it is reinstalled, but what do you have to readjust to 'realign' the door?

Originally posted by crawlintoy
call me stupid, but why not just unbolt the doors?

cuase quick release is faster and easier. they may want to take their doors off if its hot or if theyre wheeling, the pop them back on if a sudden thunderstorm comes. the rachet wrench would make it faster.

Originally posted by hey its daver


cuase quick release is faster and easier. they may want to take their doors off if its hot or if theyre wheeling, the pop them back on if a sudden thunderstorm comes. the rachet wrench would make it faster.

by how much, 2 minutes? Isn't this ruled out by time involved for wrench time to make them quick release? I believe you i just don't fully understand;)

I had some factory hinges that i pulled the pins and cut the extreme end off and the drilled through the pin to install a cotter or small hitch pin. Got one to work removing the door but lost interest when I got some gear wrenches. Also with the hinges just laying there in my personal experience the bottom hinges and in some cases like rollover get mangled by rocks. :rolleyes:

I just did the "quick release" deal with the hitch pins. Took me a little time for the first door (hour and fifteen) and then about 45 for the other.

I LOVE IT (so far). No slop. They come off in 15 seconds a side and take 30 seconds each to go back on. And that's by myself.

If you wanna do it, just follow alabamatoy's instructions. AND LEAVE THE HINGES ON THE TRUCK!!!!

Originally posted by crawlintoy
call me stupid, but why not just unbolt the doors? I know it has something to do with aligning the door after it is reinstalled, but what do you have to readjust to 'realign' the door?

For me it was the reasoning that its a PITA to re-install a door by yourself everytime. Holding a full door with glass with 1 hand while trying to start bolts with the other isnt wothe the saving a few bucks. With the Tankota hinges its like 5 seconds to pop it on once you get used to it. Why fight with it?
As far as realigning the door, the hole in the hinge is oversized vs. the bolt, and can make the bodylines crooked slightly, and the striker loop might not line up correctly.

I TOOK THE DOORS OFF, THEN THE HINGES,
TOOK THE PIN OUT..WHAT A PITA,THEN CUT THE BODY SIDE HINGE TOP HOLE OFF.LEFT THE BUSHINGS IN THE OTHER HIGE AND TOOK THE BOTTOM BOLT OUT AND WELDED THE BOTTOM PART OF THE HINGE TO THE DOOR.ALIGNED THE DOOR AND IT WORKS AWSOME.NO SLOP AND CAN PULL THE OFF IN A FEW SECONDS.........THNX FOR ALL THE IMFO

Originally posted by Alabamatoy

Your door alignment will not be as good as some other solutions and as the factory setup because the door-side hinge will drop slightly in between the halves of the truck side hinge.


couldnt' you just maybe tackweld some washers to build it up a bit on the hinge? it would make it a tighter fit when putting the doors on but wouldn't it solve the "drop" the door would see?

here is cool quick release for the door stop things
spidertrax (http://www.spidertrax.com/accessories_drs.htm)
http://www.spidertrax.com/accessories_drs1.jpg

Originally posted by Richard
here is cool quick release for the door stop things
spidertrax (http://www.spidertrax.com/accessories_drs.htm)
http://www.spidertrax.com/accessories_drs1.jpg

aren't those only for zuk Samurai's?

Man this is an old thread........

I think the best way is to notch the top hole on the hinge so you can slide the hinge over the bolt (thats still on the truck)


That make sence?




As far as the door stop thingies......... whats so hard about pushing the little out of the stock stopper thingie??

Originally posted by frag85


aren't those only for zuk Samurai's?
I am sure they can be made to work on a Toy