Lance Morin
06-06-2002, 07:15 AM
Vechicle: 1985 Toyota 4Runner (Trail rig only)
Front Suspension: 2.5" Wrangler lift springs with 1" lift shackles (2" over stock) and 2" dropped front spring hanger - half ass dual shock setup with 14" travel Procomps
Rear Suspension: 5 (or is it 6") Skyjacker springs with Rancho 9012's angled in above the rear axle housing. 1.5" lift shackles, but the rear hanger move forward 1.5" (better shackle angle with the stiff springs - overload leaf still in pack
Stock 22RE with 5 speed and Toyota t-case with 4:1 gears (swapping to dual stock cases [2.28 and 2.28] at the same time as the suspension work)
38.5 x 14.50 Swamper TSL SXs mounted on Diamond beadlocks with 3" backspacking
Toyota axles front and rear with 4.88 gears (ARB up front and Spool in the rear)
Homemade hy-steer cross-over arms that really need the dropped front hanger to clear the springs. It could be reduced to 1.5" though.
Note: The front supsension is a "little" rigged right now and needs to be re-worked regardless!
-------------------------------
I'm torn between my two option to keep the tires out of the fenders. I could do a simple shackle reversal (which would make it like a stock Jeep). Then, the tires would move forward at compression. This will require the least amount of work, but I'll still need to move my power steering box because the axle will move forward at compression - thus closer to my pitman arm
(which already touches at compression).
The other option is to move the steering box WAY forward (cutting a body mount to do that) and then keeping my existing Toyota shackle setup, but moving everything about 2.5" forward.
It will require a new hole in the frame to hange the shackles from. Of course this is at the beginning of where the frame tapers in.
Another thing I'd like to address while I'm re-working the suspension is my front end jumping when I search for traction. I was wondering if part of this is way the Toyota shackles are (the reverse of a Jeep). People have told me it's because I have no traction bar(s) on the rear axle, but those springs are so stiff that I cannot even get them to compress 5" and use the bump stops! My front springs are real soft, but I've added another shock up
front (dual shocks on both sides and yes, I'll be build new shock hoops when I do all this work - not more extened bolt for the 2nd shocks) and I'm going to add a leaf to the pack to stiffen it up. I'm just tired of the "little bunny foofoo" trick that they truck likes to perform when it cannot find traction right away. I could use some thoughts on this.
Front Suspension: 2.5" Wrangler lift springs with 1" lift shackles (2" over stock) and 2" dropped front spring hanger - half ass dual shock setup with 14" travel Procomps
Rear Suspension: 5 (or is it 6") Skyjacker springs with Rancho 9012's angled in above the rear axle housing. 1.5" lift shackles, but the rear hanger move forward 1.5" (better shackle angle with the stiff springs - overload leaf still in pack
Stock 22RE with 5 speed and Toyota t-case with 4:1 gears (swapping to dual stock cases [2.28 and 2.28] at the same time as the suspension work)
38.5 x 14.50 Swamper TSL SXs mounted on Diamond beadlocks with 3" backspacking
Toyota axles front and rear with 4.88 gears (ARB up front and Spool in the rear)
Homemade hy-steer cross-over arms that really need the dropped front hanger to clear the springs. It could be reduced to 1.5" though.
Note: The front supsension is a "little" rigged right now and needs to be re-worked regardless!
-------------------------------
I'm torn between my two option to keep the tires out of the fenders. I could do a simple shackle reversal (which would make it like a stock Jeep). Then, the tires would move forward at compression. This will require the least amount of work, but I'll still need to move my power steering box because the axle will move forward at compression - thus closer to my pitman arm
(which already touches at compression).
The other option is to move the steering box WAY forward (cutting a body mount to do that) and then keeping my existing Toyota shackle setup, but moving everything about 2.5" forward.
It will require a new hole in the frame to hange the shackles from. Of course this is at the beginning of where the frame tapers in.
Another thing I'd like to address while I'm re-working the suspension is my front end jumping when I search for traction. I was wondering if part of this is way the Toyota shackles are (the reverse of a Jeep). People have told me it's because I have no traction bar(s) on the rear axle, but those springs are so stiff that I cannot even get them to compress 5" and use the bump stops! My front springs are real soft, but I've added another shock up
front (dual shocks on both sides and yes, I'll be build new shock hoops when I do all this work - not more extened bolt for the 2nd shocks) and I'm going to add a leaf to the pack to stiffen it up. I'm just tired of the "little bunny foofoo" trick that they truck likes to perform when it cannot find traction right away. I could use some thoughts on this.