yea I read the other threads but didn't see much for cost so I am starting a new one.

I got the backing plates off of my axle ready to bolt on a caliper bracket and slip on a machined rotor.

I have not shopped around for the rotor, calipers, or brackets yet. What should I pay for the parts, and machining of the rotor?

Using cheby rotors - basically TSM style. Wondering if I should just by the machined rotors and the brackets from TSM for $280


http://www.tsmmfg.com/Toyota%20Truck%20web%20ver.JPG


Money is not something I have a lot of so cheap is better, although I don't want to mickey mouse this so I'd rather buy nice brackets than make some ok ones.

Thanks!

www.aa-mfg.com has caliper brackets I belive - otherwise Seabass was telling me how to do this cheap but at the time I was supposed be be working so I did'nt uderstand much but I'm sure he'll chime in.
weldpro

PS- i forgot my password for RCRC could you pm it to me here? Or at my regular email? Thanks

Originally posted by Brandon
Using cheby rotors - basically TSM style. Wondering if I should just by the machined rotors and the brackets from TSM for $280
I bought new rotors from Advance Auto for $22 each, then had them machined (center openining) for $75. I think the machining can be found for less $$. I bought the brackets from Downey for (IIRC) $125. The Downey brackets required just a wee bit of coercing to get them on, but they work.

So I saved a bit over the TSM by rolling my own.

Also, the calipers (without parking brake)are available remanned from Advance Auto for around $20 each, not including the core. If you return the cores the next day, especially to a different salesman (or the same one who's your friend :) ) they dont care of they are even remotely similar.

HTH

so you paid $244 for the rotors, brackets, and machine work.

I'd be saving $35 but buying parts from 2 places and having machine work done at another. With as little free time I have the $280 is looking pretty good..

Just a question - but why do you want rear disks anyway? The late model Toy rear brakes never had a problem stopping my truck on 35" boggers any time I wanted....

mine were all rusted out from sitting.

Ok the truth..

My jeep has wheel cylinder itus

I have gone through atleast 6 wheel cylinders in the last year. I bought brand new drums on the dana44 and still blew em so I swapped to a land cruiser rear and blew a couple more so now I am going to a mini truck rear and this time I am starting with disks :beer:

kragen & autozone for parts, call to se who's cheaper on whitch, I forget:) 78 Monta Carlo calipers $13.99 + $10 core, turn in some old cores from anything later....rotors $26-$28 no core. brackits about $5 for some flat 1/4" x 1" I have the blueprint if you want I can mail it to you, then look at jays page for all details. cost
28x2=56
13.99x2=27.98
totall=$83.98 + turn rotor hole, I get that done free but I think $20-30 each somewhere. say $60
totall=$143.98
brake lines from junk yard $2.50 pair
totall=under $150....oh you should get an adjustable proporerating valve $50-60 bucks, ask crash he used 10 bolt calipers also, I got my brake lines off a chev astro van, looks like the calipers will work too, rotors are just over 1" like the rotors you need to use.

Originally posted by DRM
JuThe late model Toy rear brakes never had a problem stopping my truck on 35" boggers any time I wanted.... You shoulda looked closely at the brakes - both adjusters were siezed, the drums were worn beyond spec etc. I think its safe to say that they were working, but probably wouldn't have much longer.

My discs shed mud far better than the drums, they grip almost immediately after mudholes and water crossings (I always had to "dry" my drums by pumping several times before they would work) and they seem to grip better with a lot less noise.

Originally posted by Alabamatoy
You shoulda looked closely at the brakes - both adjusters were siezed, the drums were worn beyond spec etc. I think its safe to say that they were working, but probably wouldn't have much longer.

Ahhh.... that's only because it sat so long after I quit riding that last year :p:p:p

Originally posted by SeaBass44
kragen & autozone for parts, call to se who's cheaper on whitch, I forget:) 78 Monta Carlo calipers $13.99 + $10 core, turn in some old cores from anything later....rotors $26-$28 no core. brackits about $5 for some flat 1/4" x 1" I have the blueprint if you want I can mail it to you, then look at jays page for all details. cost
28x2=56
13.99x2=27.98
totall=$83.98 + turn rotor hole, I get that done free but I think $20-30 each somewhere. say $60
totall=$143.98
brake lines from junk yard $2.50 pair
totall=under $150....oh you should get an adjustable proporerating valve $50-60 bucks, ask crash he used 10 bolt calipers also, I got my brake lines off a chev astro van, looks like the calipers will work too, rotors are just over 1" like the rotors you need to use.

I suppose I could figure the bracket out but is only 1/4" offset? Noticed on some of the writeups they needed some washers or something? I checked on-line for the rotors and the cheapos were $35 ea

hmm

what brand rotors, have any idea? Raybestos?

When I do this I'll get all the part numbers and where to find the cheapest price etc..

hey B, you don't have to take the rotors to a machine shop to have them machined down to fit. careful work with a grinder can get the job done for free. ask Jay how he did his ... he's the King of home fab for low $'s

also, i think naparts.com has the rotors for cheap or maybe it's JCwhitney. one of those two had them for sale real cheap.

- jack

thanks, I wasn't sure how much had to be ground - everywhere says you need to grind but not how much. I might be able to do it with my carbide burr?

Guess I just need to get a set and see what needs to be done

Got a link to TSM? Do they sell JUST the brackets?

Id say the brachets are where your gonna save the most money. They are just 2 pieces of 1/4" FB with a coupla holes then welded together. I have the diagram (same on Seabass has) of them (originally drawn by Jay). If you get a copy of the diagram from Seabass or Jay or I youll see how easy. Then just scrounge for the best prices on yer parts and grind the rotors and you got it.

(+ on toys most people seemed to like the larger MC, dont know what you have though).

I wouldnt pay for a kit but then again I wouldnt pay for a kit on most things.

My roomate is one of those, "theres a reason why it cost so much" type guys. Im one of those "if they can build it I cna build it, cheaper" type a guys.

http://www.tsmmfg.com/

they used to but I don't see em ??

http://www.tsmmfg.com/Toyota%20Truck%20others.htm

looks like $120, but they don't list the truck ones

Originally posted by TyTy
Id say the brachets are where your gonna save the most money. They are just 2 pieces of 1/4" FB with a coupla holes then welded together. I have the diagram (same on Seabass has) of them (originally drawn by Jay). If you get a copy of the diagram from Seabass or Jay or I youll see how easy. Then just scrounge for the best prices on yer parts and grind the rotors and you got it.

(+ on toys most people seemed to like the larger MC, dont know what you have though).

I wouldnt pay for a kit but then again I wouldnt pay for a kit on most things.

My roomate is one of those, "theres a reason why it cost so much" type guys. Im one of those "if they can build it I cna build it, cheaper" type a guys.


I have always been a if I can build it cheaper guy but since I became a daddy and I have 2 rigs, work out of town, etc. I have to factor time into everything, it is worth it to buy brackets if I can save some time. A lot of things I fab are open to "design" but a brake bracket has to line up, or I guess they are floating calipers so it might not be so important..

Cheapest I have found is

calipers:
$19 @ Kragen, unloaded - $15 for the pads

Rotors:
$35 for Raybestos, $26 for Wearever (ea price)

Originally posted by TyTy
Id say the brachets are where your gonna save the most money. .

I agree. If you don't want to spend a lot of time or $$ on them just buy the generic ones from aa-mfg and then do the little bit of modification to them needed to make them fit. :)

Also, I believe the Eldo calipers are identical to the 44 calipers, and you know you can find those at NAPA for $15/ea.


I'd like to know more about this DIY grinding method...? :confused:
Seems to me that its important to keep the hole centered because that's what centers the rotor, etc. ???

And the OTHER main thing I'd like to know is- how to build a cheap E-brake... whether it be t-case mounted or built into the calpers... (I've never really heard much good about the Caddy ebrake calipers)
Its gotta be cheap (DIY) and effective. The AP version doesn't look easy at all to build and none of it is cheap. :(

Originally posted by ErikB
...And the OTHER main thing I'd like to know is- how to build a cheap E-brake... whether it be t-case mounted or built into the calpers... (I've never really heard much good about the Caddy ebrake calipers)
Its gotta be cheap (DIY) and effective. The AP version doesn't look easy at all to build and none of it is cheap. :(

I thought I remembered seeing someone post on here about a year ago about a homemade t-case ebrake. They had made a rotor out of some standrad hot rolled steel and then purchased a mechanical caliper from Norther Tool or something like that. Ended up costing them $60 to build. I tried doing a search but I couldn't find the post.

Originally posted by ErikB

I'd like to know more about this DIY grinding method...? :confused:
Seems to me that its important to keep the hole centered because that's what centers the rotor, etc. ???
:(

All you have to grind is the big hole in the middle of the rotors. Like the BIG hole. You have do this cause it wont sit flush on that really hard to describe raised surface that is on the end of the axle shaft. The studs align the rotors, you just have to make it sit flush.

Bad description, sorry.

Originally posted by ErikB





I'd like to know more about this DIY grinding method...? :confused:
Seems to me that its important to keep the hole centered because that's what centers the rotor, etc. ???




no the lug studs do.......that is why you use the chevy rotor 6 lug,,,,,,,,,,,,;)

Originally posted by Priest


I thought I remembered seeing someone post on here about a year ago about a homemade t-case ebrake. They had made a rotor out of some standrad hot rolled steel and then purchased a mechanical caliper from Norther Tool or something like that. Ended up costing them $60 to build. I tried doing a search but I couldn't find the post.

u can get a mech caliper and a rotor for go carts for less then $50

Originally posted by Brandon


I have always been a if I can build it cheaper guy but since I became a daddy and I have 2 rigs, work out of town, etc. I have to factor time into everything, it is worth it to buy brackets if I can save some time. A lot of things I fab are open to "design" but a brake bracket has to line up, or I guess they are floating calipers so it might not be so important..



I think the key is that they are a single piston caliper and alignment is not all that crucial. Thing is, the design of these things is all trace, cut, drill. 7 holes and a torch and your golden.

I tried to use an old scan I had of the diaagram for you to get an idea of what Im talking about but its all screwed up...

Sufice to say that this isnt a weld washers on to type deal.

well since it is out there why re-create the wheel..

If someone can scan a template I can scale it such that the two holes line up and I'd be good to go. I am sure I can figure it out once I get the rotor mounted and set the caliper on it though..

Tools will be a drill press, sawzall, cut off wheel, grinder, and chop saw - hope that does it ;)

(no torch)

Originally posted by SeaBass44



no the lug studs do.......that is why you use the chevy rotor 6 lug,,,,,,,,,,,,;)

wrong ... you DON'T want the lug studs centering the rotor. that's why the grinding needs to be reasonably precise so that the centering flange on the axle is what bears the load.

- jack

Brandon - check some of the racing supply places online.... you can get the basic caliper brackets for Dana 44 calipers for like $6 each.... That gets you the part to bolt the caliper to, so once your rotor is in place, you just figure how to get that permanently attacked to the axle housing... Can't get much easier than that :)

Originally posted by morpheus


wrong ... you DON'T want the lug studs centering the rotor. that's why the grinding needs to be reasonably precise so that the centering flange on the axle is what bears the load.

- jack

wrong eh, well that's a rude way toi state your OPOINION, here is a pic showing there is not enough slop in the stud holes to matter.....

http://www.jtoutfitters.com/parts/accessories/discbrake/index.html

shows you what the brackets look like...theses are $80

Originally posted by SeaBass44


wrong eh, well that's a rude way toi state your OPOINION, here is a pic showing there is not enough slop in the stud holes to matter.....

you've got your opinion of how things work and i've got mine ... but it's designed so the lug studs don't bear the load. the pic in question has such a tight tolerance between the rotor and axle flange the lug studs still won't see load.

- jack

Originally posted by morpheus


you've got your opinion of how things work and i've got mine ... but it's designed so the lug studs don't bear the load. the pic in question has such a tight tolerance between the rotor and axle flange the lug studs still won't see load.

- jack

opinions vary, you stated yours rudly and as if fact...you can state an opinion in a nice manner, but to many think that it's POR it's cool to be rude........I will turn it out on a lath cause it's easier, one can use a grinder if they want, won't afevt it either way.

lol ... rudely :confused: i believe you read to much into my post ... :D ... i don't take life near as serious as it seems to appear i do.

- jack

Originally posted by morpheus
lol ... rudely :confused: i believe you read to much into my post ... :D ... i don't take life near as serious as it seems to appear i do.

- jack :clown: :clown: :clown: :clown: :clown: :clown: :clown: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

to be 100% use a lath....anyone have good luck with a grinder?

I know that Bent & Twisted has weld on caliper brackets for $38 for the 2...I got my caddy calipers from the yard with all the brake lines for $27 ( e-brake in them style) as well as my vented chevy rotors for $20...A 7/8 M/C for $18 so its $104 so far...not including the hole enlarging if you pay to have it done...
This is in my plan also...but after my crossover and crawler thats sitting here to go in first...

Ok picked up the calipers and pads for $49 tax and core included, so I get $20 back if I get some cores. No pins for the calipers though :(

I got the backing plates off of the axle, just need the brackets, rotors, and lines

gettin there slowly ;)

Anyone got a pic of the B&T or these cheap hot rod brackets?

:smokin:

Brandon maybe check out with 350toy on his conversion on the Allterrainers board.I think he has all the blue prints to scale and he said it really didn't cost much.I know were coming down at the end of the month and if he can whip up a set maybe we can work out a secret rendevous :D :D He has also changed M/C because the stock one didn't work as well.

The ones at B&T look like the ones in the above post but there are no bolt holes and they weld to the axel in the flange area.. so just imagine them without the 4 mounting holes and they are shorter due to that...They do have threaded holes for the pins since that is what holds em to the caliper bracket..I do no have a pic of them for ya though...

Here is some that i created
they work rather well.

Another pic.
holes are tapped for the pins.

I couldn't tell it was two pieces from the last pic, very nice! Gives me an idea. I can see I don't have the tools you do but I can get one piece, drill the big hole with a big hole saw then drill the small ones from it. Tap two 1/4"x2" plates and attach them to the caliper, line it up and weld those two to the big plate. Then cut the big plate in half to get it on. That is unless you want to sell me a set of those cool plates ;)

http://www.tsmmfg.com/AB%20Draw%203%207_16%20x%203%207_16.JPG

sure
i'll sell you a set.
every thing I got is for sale.

Originally posted by fabricator
sure
i'll sell you a set.How much? I'm getting sick of cleaning my rear adjusters out after every trail ride so my brakes will work again... :rolleyes:

Originally posted by fabricator
sure
i'll sell you a set.
every thing I got is for sale.

I'd be interested in a set of those too! :D

well not real sure of the legality issue's

You know if you roll off of Lion's Back
is it going to be my fault?

hey fabricator, I'd suggest sending prices through PM's instead of here or you might get nailed for advertising even though I started it, so PM me the cost would ya ;)

If you installed it I could possibly see the liability, but just for a piece of metal? I don't think so.

I'll do my best not to slide off of lions back anyway ;)

I'd be curious on your price but then I like to fab as well so I might end up making them myself, not sure yet :)

oh yea, what did you do about studs?

Originally posted by Brandon
hey fabricator, I'd suggest sending prices through PM's instead of here or you might get nailed for advertising even though I started it, so PM me the cost would ya ;)



Heck no - post the prices here!

If a PBB member sees it and says "how much" or "tell me about that" - that is OK!

If someone comes on here saying "I sell XXXXX for XXXXX and you need to get one NOW" - then that is when the problems start ;)

I might be interested to Fabricator. I already might be getting a rear diff gurd as well. I just need to see what I want to do about an ebrake....that's CHEAP :D

The caliper mount brackets do not have to be super precise due to the floating caliper design. If you were designing a fixed caliper mount, you would want to make sure the caliper is very square to the rotor.

I did enlarge my center holes with a grinder. You want the rotor centered to the axle nub via the center hole. The stud holes are too sloppy and won’t give as good of results if used for centering the rotor.

Here’s how I did it. I figured out how big the center hole had to be to fit the axle nub. I then figured what the measurement would be from this new hole perimeter to the closest hole edge of each of the stud holes. I started grinding away material to enlarge the hole. I carefully ground to the size I needed. I ground and checked the dimensions at all six stud holes on each rotor. These six spots were ground to within +0.000” and –0.015”max (most were about 0.005” or so) of the dimension I needed. Everywhere but these spots were just ground best I could do. But, this ensured I had six accurate locating points on the rotor.

You have to go slow, measure and trial fit to do a good job. Mine worked fine using this method. Probably took an hour or so to do the two.

I used 3/8” plate for my brackets to get the offset to mate the caliper to the rotor.

Jay

Ok,
I'm gettin a lot of emails and PM's on this.
If I sold these I would need to check the
legal issue's.
The price would be 75.00 + 8.00 shipping
anywhere in the U.S.

as far as the rotors,
i can get them turned for 25.00 ,
any more and i would think that you
are getting screwed.
cause it takes them about 45 seconds
on the lathe.

ok dumb q - what year/vehicle rotors should I be looking for? 2wd right?

Fabricator,

I'd buy a set if you made them for sale w/rotors. Saves me the hassle, and I have a ton of other work I need to do to the rig before it's ready to run anyway. As for legal issues, I don't think you have anything to worry about. Maybe we could all sign a waiver?

Something like:

I won't sue Fabricator if my stupid ass can't install brackets properly or can't tell that a bracket is faulty. In the event that my stupidity causes my injury or death, I have only my stupid ass to blame and I deserve to have my ass kicked for all eternity by Fabricator or his designated representitive.



:D :smokin:

sell them as a spare tire carrier or something else...

Originally posted by fabricator
If I sold these I would need to check the
legal issue's.
What "legal issues"? You can engrave them, right? :laughing:

Originally posted by Brandon
ok dumb q - what year/vehicle rotors should I be looking for? 2wd right?

'88 up Chevy full-size 4WD truck (IFS) rotors (1/2 ton, non-extended cab model)

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/discs.html

good, that is what I will be pickin up from napa in the morning for $29 ea

so far $49 with tax for calipers and pads (I get $20 if I find a core)

That is some nice work fabricator...make another set for me?
I have the Chev rotors and Eldorado calipers/pads ready to go.
Just need brackets and some brake lines....where did you guys make the switch from Toy to Gm lines? At the T?
Anyone have trouble adapting the Toy Pbrake cables to the Eldo calipers?
I just need to be able to do this swap on a Sat and be ready to drive by Mon AM.....
My backup car is down so this is DD for now....:cool:

Originally posted by 4runner
That is some nice work fabricator...make another set for $40?
I have the Chev rotors and Eldorado calipers/pads ready to go.
Just need brackets and some brake lines....where did you guys make the switch from Toy to Gm lines? At the T?
Anyone have trouble adapting the Toy Pbrake cables to the Eldo calipers?
I just need to be able to do this swap on a Sat and be ready to drive by Mon AM.....
My backup car is down so this is DD for now....:cool:

from above $75


Originally posted by fabricator
Ok,
I'm gettin a lot of emails and PM's on this.
If I sold these I would need to check the
legal issue's.
The price would be 75.00 + 8.00 shipping
anywhere in the U.S.

as far as the rotors,
i can get them turned for 25.00 ,
any more and i would think that you
are getting screwed.
cause it takes them about 45 seconds
on the lathe.

Thanks Seabass...I couldn't see all of the posts and I replied before I saw the one where he listed a price...so I edited it...you are too fast....
$75 is fair for something that looks good, works good, and is bolt on....
PM to fabricator ....:smokin:

Originally posted by 4runner
Thanks Seabass...I couldn't see all of the posts and I replied before I saw the one where he listed a price...so I edited it...you are too fast....
$75 is fair for something that looks good, works good, and is bolt on....
PM to fabricator ....:smokin:

No problem, he does good work eh!

Originally posted by Brandon
oh yea, what did you do about studs?
i took the axle's out and unbolted
the backing plates, cut the backing plates off
with a cutting device, this saves hours of
jacking with the bearing issue,
knocked the studs out and
used 3/8ths grade 8 bolts.
can't remember how long.

Dr. Evil; like the papar weight thing.
:beer: :beer:

he'll get my $83 bucks and I don't worry about that legal crap. Iput them on, it is my problem if I screw up...


that is some kickass workmanship....:eek:

NOTE! If you are cutting off the backing plates and nick the axle it can break and the wheel will fall off! I take off the clip, and grab the backing plate in both hands and slam it on the concrete about 5-10 times and it will come apart without any damage....or use a press, I will push the bearing and sleve back on with either a pipe or a press, I did this to 2 less then a month ago, very easy........

sea pickle, can you email me your info on this, ive ditched the ebrake and am sick of adjusting the drums from time to time to recover lost braking... :beer:

I took the sawzall and made a cut on each side, it was pretty easy. I couldn't cut all the way so I had to bend the two pieces back and forth a few times before they fell apart.

seabass has it down. but i went one better,sprayed some PB Blaster on it,went in the house and surfed for a while.......went back to the garage and put some plywood on the floor to deaden the shock to the ole arms and one popped off with one blow.the other took three:D .

I am not used to the surfin
climate,
always had to use a torch and a pipe
and a big hammer.
usually screwed the bearing up.

i used the calipers off of a 79 2wd toyota (same as the 4wd but they don't have the two smaller pistons) and the stock front rotors and the studs out of the front. i cut the backing plate to fit and added a piece of 3/8 to the front of the backing plate, and added a peice of 1/4 to the back between the caliper and the factory backing plate. i bored the calipers out to 1/2" and taped the plate 1/2 fine thread. i was going to use two of the studs and a piece of 1/4" but the backing plate is about 3/16 so i used three holes. but i'm cheap. they work great and they dont clank or raddle like my buddys gm calipers. as for the e brake it didn't work before, either did the brakes, at least they didn't lock up. but i got a hydrolic ball valve from a buddy of mine and that will work as a teporary e brake. untill i get a machanical brake set up that works off of the t-case and make it work with a car type handle that will be mounted next to my shifters.


this set up might sound redneckesh but it looks and works good. booger seen it last time we went wheeling. and the hole thing costed me nothing:flipoff2: but time:(




Cliff

Originally posted by larryboy
seabass has it down. but i went one better,sprayed some PB Blaster on it,went in the house and surfed for a while.......went back to the garage and put some plywood on the floor to deaden the shock to the ole arms and one popped off with one blow.the other took three:D .

all I can say is making two cuts with the sawzal was pretty damn easy - why the effort??

with backing plates cut off

Looks cool Brandon, how much time would you say you have into this project? If you had ALL the parts, could you do it in a day?
Afternoon? Weekend?

afternoon, shoot 2 hours if that..

but that would be assuming you had the brackets and machined rotors

picked up some cheapo napa rotors just now, they were $30 ea, but the stupid caliper bolts cost more than the calipers! Got outa napa for $100 with two rotors and 4 caliper bolts. Total investment so far $150 including tax and everything. If I grind out the holes and make the brackets I am done now, I'll have some time to work on it next week, can't wait!

notha pic

don't worry, yet anothertech article (http://www.rivercityrockcrawlers.com/TechReports/BornAgain/Axles/RearDiskBrakes/RearDiskBrakes.htm) in the works ;)

I have seen a lot of good links for this swap allready, so lotsa good info

Originally posted by Brandon
but the stupid caliper bolts cost more than the calipers!

Did they not come with the caliper??...I got lots of extras from the JY when I got my calipers from there...left from those who just pulled the brakes apart and left the rest all over....better for me..:D

nope, the set cost me $30!

what is the offset for the caliper that you guys are using? Looks to be about 3/8" + 3/8" so 3/4" to the mating surface?

I am sure I will figure it out when I get out there and tinker but anything to save some time..

allrighty, I just ordered some stinking brackets for $7 ea ;)

Originally posted by Brandon
allrighty, I just ordered some stinking brackets for $7 ea ;)

where?

aa - that street rod place

I ordered 2 sets to tinker with ;)

so all in all what is the best way to go? any sugestions for the front? i am building up a 84 toy w/a ford v8 302 and need good stopping power. any sugestions?
thanks:)

yea, ditch the toy running gear ;)

brandon,no effort to pull the backing plates the way i described,was an easy way to replace the bearings and seals and ditch the backing plates without any risk to the axles.

Brandon.
what is the part number for those brackets from that hot rod place,if you don't mind giving us that info.that would be great,as I want to put disc brakes on the rear of my rig,already have calipers,just need brackets and that price sounds good and cheaper then fabing yourself.
you can e-me if you like at:
canadiancrawler@webtv.net
Thank-you

so what about a front swap price and parts needed? is the front brakes in a 84 with a v8 good enough to do the job or should i use something different?
thanks for the help in your thread so far:)

wiggit,you should upgrade to cruiser vented rotors from ALLPRO and use 86 4wd calipers.bolt on deal,if you you need more info do a search or call ALLPRO:D .

here is one Im using on teh rear of my FSJ model 20 rear, its part number is aa-049-a

they will send a free catalog,m and its alot of great stuff!

website is

http://aa-mfg.com/

http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/809574-Aa049a.jpg

they have a weld on, and some that look like enough to drill some holes to bolt, and a clamp on, unless you work really cheap you cant make one any cheaper than this place.

Originally posted by larryboy
wiggit,you should upgrade to cruiser vented rotors from ALLPRO and use 86 4wd calipers.bolt on deal,if you you need more info do a search or call ALLPRO:D . or go to any auto parts store and get lc rotors.....it's nothing special;)

hey asswiper/seabass i suggested allpro because they have em for $65 which was the cheapest i could find.oh and they support the board.i know the rotors aren't anything special.:D

Originally posted by larryboy
hey asswiper/seabass i suggested allpro because they have em for $65 which was the cheapest i could find.oh and they support the board.i know the rotors aren't anything special.:D

and I posted they are nothing special without calling you names:rolleyes: you on the other hand....good job:flipoff2: just grow up;)

hey seabass i was just responding to YOUR new avatar...wasn't calling names.sorry if i came across that way.:)

Originally posted by larryboy
hey seabass i was just responding to YOUR new avatar...wasn't calling names.sorry if i came across that way.:)

ok I'm sorry I missunderstood, I apoligize[sp] even if I spelled it wrong;)

alls well that ends well:D

Brandon, you ever finish this? Happy? Worth it? Whrite up? :D I might wanna dive into this and also install a bigger MC like ErikB did.

Thought I would bring this post alive again.
Check this out.......

http://sky-manufacturing.com/images/suzuki/diskbraketsgreen2.jpg


The are from Sky Manufacturing (http://sky-manufacturing.com/)

Cool and introductory special prices...I can't get thier email link to work......:(

thinking about getting these brackets from AA mfg.

anything wrong with them

AA-049-A

Caliper Bracket GM Weld On

Fits 3" Tubing, Made from 1/4 inch Steel

$6.77 Each

I used the aa-mfg brackets on my rear axle. worked good for the price. had to modify them a bit to fit my application. but am happy with them, especially at that price.

- jack

you thought I wouldn't have a write up? I need to add more but I do have one..

http://www.rcrc4x4.com/TechReports/BornAgain/Axles/RearDiskBrakes/RearDiskBrakes.htm

Right on the front page of my web site:

www.RCRC4x4.com ;)

no pictures of the calipers bolted to the brackets ? :confused:

- jack

Try Sky-manufacturing.com they have brackets cheap and if you use 79-85 monte carlo rear calipers you will have an e brake .

Deja Vu :D :D

Originally posted by incontrol
Thought I would bring this post alive again.
Check this out.......

http://sky-manufacturing.com/images/suzuki/diskbraketsgreen2.jpg


The are from Sky Manufacturing (http://sky-manufacturing.com/)

I haven't read about how to adapt the Toyota (metric) brake hard line to the Monte Carlo calipers (SAE right?)? I read on Brandon's wright-up that some lines can be boght cheap. Are these metric to SAE lines?

Also, if any body has a scematic for the mounting brackets could you post them here or shoot me the pictures at cornfedcarp@hotmail.com


thank you,

Chad

Toyota uses 10mm x 1.0 inverted flare. The Monte Carlo caliper is a 10mm banjo fitting. You can buy the pre-made lines from All Pro or buy the fittings and make your own.