Ok, so finally we were able to put the engine all back together.

Gave it a once over, and turned the key. Now, before I continue, I will mention that I was having problem swith my fuel system. My Fuel pump wasn't coming on before. I gerry rigged it to the rear lighter, and now as soon as the truck is put in position 2, with the fuse for the lighter in, i get fuel. Now this will be addressed, but we were hoping to run the truck first, and then figure out the rest.



Anyway, as we turned the key, the truck turned over, and after some time it fired up. It was LOUD. Lots of ticking/knocking could be heard. I hope that that will all adjust itself once properly lubricated. asnyway, after running it for approcximately half a minute, we shut it off. BIG mistake. we haven't been able to start it since. It fired up briefly 2 times, and then got flooded. Over night I removed the spark plugs, and cleaned them and dried them. This morning I was able to get the truck running briefly with quick start. Couldn't get it running on its own.



Here is what we checked:

Timing is good. TDC seems to be good. Rotor is @ 1 when 1st piston is at the top.

Injectors seem to get power to them. We used a meter to check the plug.

We obviously get fuel since you could smell it and hear the fuel pump.

We have spark.

2 other things.

1) There is 1 wire, that splits into a male and female conector. It comes out of the bunch of wires that attach(two loop connectors) to the alternator. Couldn't find where they go? Anyone?

2) mY tach was not working when the truck was running.



Any help would be greatly appreciated/

Fix the fuel pump the right way to eliminate that variable. The fuel pump is not the only thing on the fuel pump circuit (inertia switch, etc.) and whatever wiring you have in there right now is probably causing something to see a very false reading.

Regarding the wires that you are talking about... are all of the connections on at the back of the alternator? The coil?

Re-read your post and have more to add.

If you were able to get the truck running on starting fluid then lets just assume that you do have spark, although you should definitively check for it anyways.

If it ran with the starting fluid, then I would be suspicious as to it actually "flooding", because if this were the case then it would not be likely to run anyways.

It therefore seems as though you are not getting fuel. If the pump runs, check for pressure at the rail after the regulator. If you have pressure there, backprobe one of the injector connections while trying to start it and see if they are firing.

You could also give us a little more detail about year/model and any other problems you had beforehand.

The only other thing on the fuel pump circuit is the oxygen sensor heaters.

A test light in the injector plug will tell you instantly if you have power to the injectors.

Regarding the wires that you are talking about... are all of the connections on at the back of the alternator? The coil?

It seems like all of the connections are at the back of the alternator. I have only 2 cables going to it, that are held in place by the tightening of the nut sticking out at the back of the alternator.

If you were able to get the truck running on starting fluid then lets just assume that you do have spark, although you should definitively check for it anyways.

If it ran with the starting fluid, then I would be suspicious as to it actually "flooding", because if this were the case then it would not be likely to run anyways.

It therefore seems as though you are not getting fuel. If the pump runs, check for pressure at the rail after the regulator. If you have pressure there, backprobe one of the injector connections while trying to start it and see if they are firing.

You could also give us a little more detail about year/model and any other problems you had beforehand.
We did check for spark, I;ve got it.
It ran on starting fluid today. It ran on its own, twice, yesterday. Then it got flooded, and we let it evaporate over night. It ran on starter fluid today.

How do I got about checking the fuel pressure???

The only other thing on the fuel pump circuit is the oxygen sensor heaters.

A test light in the injector plug will tell you instantly if you have power to the injectors.

we used a volt meter on one of the injector plugs, it seems to get some.

On an older Classic, checking fuel pressure is a pain as there is no fitting on the rail. Either make an adapter that allows you to put a gauge in the line or break the lines and look for presence/absence of fuel at the rail.

You say you flooded it. That's pretty good presumptive evidence fo the presence of satisfactory fuel pressure at the rail :grin:.

Pull the plugs, dry them, and put them back in and try again.

By getting it to run on ether (mechanical heroin in my book, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do), we have some evidence of timing in the ballpark, now to get enough fuel to it to make it go vroom.

Good luck.

Hi,

The fuel pressure is actually quite easy to measure: just disconnect the fuel line going from the main fuel rail to the cold start injector on top of the plenum chamber, and stick in a manometer with the correct fitting diameter :)

Watch your eyes for remaining pressurized fuel when disconnecting!

Should be around 3 bars afaik. but at 2.5, your fuel pump won't be broken either ...

If the pressure is too low, say around .5 bars (fuel pump not running) , check the air flow meter. Is it the flapper type, or the later one? If flapper, open up the black cover, and check if the one contact "under" the arm (look in clockwise direction of the arm) is touching and making contact to the pin. If it's not, it'll have been bent by a backfire. Bend back until contact is made. (this might have been why the pump wasn't running before, but of course won't have any influence if it's rigget to the lighter :smokin: )


Non-working tachymeter = faulty connections on the back of the alternator. There's one pin inside a "hole" in the metal (male on alternator side) that you easily miss. If both are connected, and tachymeter isn't showing (and probably battery light remains on), just interchange both connections in the back. Of course, if one's female, and the other male, there's not much to get wrong / interchange.

OKay, that's about what I can think of now ... except perhaps the delco timing, are you sure it's good? Cause it's easy to get it wrong and not notice ... I'd say double check that ;)

If I come up with anything else, I'll shout :wink:

Good luck!

Grtz
Quentin

Ok, the timing was re-checked. the truck is ABOUT to start, and almost does, but doesn;t quite! Grrr.
would an inertia switch cause this problem?
Is there any sensor that gives out reading before the truck starts? Temperature or otherwise?