I want Toyota electric lockers front and rear, but I dont want to have to deal with the electrical part, so I want to get Downey's cable conversion kit. I just want to know if anybody has seen them work, is the kit worth the $125?

I know a thread about this was started a few weeks ago, but it got no real answers. Just wanna know if the Downey kit is any good. Thanks.

I still don't see why you have the apprehension for the electrical parts. Properly wired and cared for, they work fine. It's really nice to get a confirmation light on the dash telling you you're locked.

I'm not not good with electronics, it would have to be wired, differential computers cost more money. Plus I like water crossings and mud, we get a lot of rain up here in WA.

Any

I read "dont want to have to deal with the electrical part" to mean that Jesselt does not want to make the "relay" module thingie.

Sounds like ya just need some help with a lister to get the thing built. I think a realy module can be put together for less than $250 (one for each diff) that the Dowyney setup would cost.

As far as mud and water, properly made and sealed it should present no more difficulties than the cable version would.

Originally posted by EWong
Sounds like ya just need some help with a lister to get the thing built. I think a realy module can be put together for less than $250 (one for each diff) that the Dowyney setup would cost.

Uhhh... HEY! For $250 each I'll make relay boxes all day long!

But I agree with ya Ed, there really should be a cheap "plug and play" setup available for these things, kind of in kit form.

jesselt, did you ever find out if the cable kit will work in the front with the hi-pinion locker? In other words, did you call Downey? I know the electrical actuator is VERY tight in there, close to the spring perch. Looking at the OEM cable actuator diagrams for the Cruisers, I can't see how it would fit in there, looks bigger to me.

Last time I was at Marlins shop he was making something for this, might want to check or atleast post on the marlincrawler.com BBS

Originally posted by KLF
I still don't see why you have the apprehension for the electrical parts. Properly wired and cared for, they work fine. It's really nice to get a confirmation light on the dash telling you you're locked.

you can still get a conformation light with a cable activation

That's true, the indicator swotch is seperate. But if you're gonna go to all the troube to run the wires for that, might as well do the actuator. It's only 3 more wires.

Man,
I'm not set on this downey kit yet, don't know if it will work on a front hi-pinion or not. Doesn't look like it will, the pic Downey shows makes it look bigger then the original actuator, not sure though.

Anyway, really, I just want to know if anybody has seen the Downey kit in action, but it doesn't look like anyone has, thanks anyway guys.

I hate to bring it up yet again, but there IS another option to building a relay box. It requires a single DPDT switch, and some 4 or 6 conductor wire. (I use trailer light cable)

Simple, easy, cheap, no-hassle way to wire 'em up. Yes I know it's not the "correct" way to wire it (read: Factory method) but I've never had a single failure, nor have I heard of anyone else having problems when using that wiring method.


By the way, what does the Downey setup cost, anyway?

I Lean, care to explain this other method you're talking about?

Im about to install my e locker soon and would also like to hear about the DPDT switch ,maybe wiring diagram?

I run ILEAN's method on mine and it works fine. The only issue is that mine takes a bit to lock, so I have to hold the switch till it does. Sometimes you can find me at teh bottom of an obstacle rocking back and forth till it engages...:eek:
Kinda weird but not too big a deal. I have found that if i engage and disengage it a few times before hitting the trail, it works much better.
I can't find the link on the 4x4 Wire site... sorry... Will post it if I do later.

There is a wiring schematic in this article (http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/electric_locker/). It's labeled wrong (DPTP should read DPDT), and my Email address is wrong, but otherwise it's OK. :D

Bud, you say you have to hold the switch? Did you use a momentary switch for it? Mine are just "standard" on-off-on switches, so I flick it to "lock" and leave it there until I want the opposite. No holding, and I've never noticed any delay in locking action. The power gets cut when the actuator reaches it's limit anyway, so the only downside to leaving the switch "on" is that you have an electrically hot wire running down to your axle.

I Lean, thas a nice write up, I may just do that, I've got a couple friend that aren't too bad with that kinda thing, maybee we can figure it out Thanks for your info.

Yep, I'm using the DPDT wiring method for my locker and have had no problems..

Just went and bought some trailer wire and hooked er all up.. Even went a little beyond that diagram and have lights to let me know when it is locked and unlocked. Also put in a master switch so it wouldn't get 'bumped' on accidently..