Hi All,

We’re in the process of modifying the IIa frame to accept longer rear springs on the front too.

We’ve got some bits laser cut to move the front mounts forward, but are having a heck of a time finding appropriate round tube to relocate the rear spring frame mount.

The important number in the ID which should be between 1.15” and 1.20”; ideally the wall thickness should be ~.25”. Clearly that makes OD somewhere in the 1.60” range which is fine, but OD is not crucial.

Having said that, the frame will be galvanized after installation of these tubes, and so will need to be reamed to size after that process. It would be nice to have an appropriate ID to begin with, but not absolutely essential.

I’m looking for four or five pieces each about 3.5” long.

Any one have suggestions?

Thanks,

KAA

Not sure exactly what your doing, can u explain it little better, maybe a pic...here's a link that may help

http://www.aladdinsteel.com/catalog/coldto2.html

has some odd sizes, but it may be close, look at the 1.75 stuff

http://www.metalsdepot.com/products/hrsteel2.phtml?page=rndtube&LimAcc=%20&aident=

i´ve ordered small odd size stuff from them before. prices aren´t horrible for small cut lengths. shipping was always quick.

there not bad, I've used them for small odd sized stuff too...

Cool, exactly what's needed on the Aladdin site.

I'll call them tomorrow.

Sorry, I don't have any photos, but here goes ...

Series Land Rover.

Longer rear leaf springs that front leaf springs.

In order to use longer (rear) springs on the front as well ... and leave the axle in the same place ... you've got to move the front mounting point forward and the rear mounting point (the one that supports the shackle) rearward roughly the same dimension.

We've made templates and had sheet pieces made to weld on and extend the frame forward.

To relocate the rear mount, these bits of tube will be welded into the frame at the appriopirate location.

Again, thanks for the Aladdin link!

glad to help..post a pic if you get a chance...

two cheap options:

-make the sections from scraps of round stock on a lathe.

-cut the original tubes out and move them back, weld them in the new position.

Cool, exactly what's needed on the Aladdin site.

I'll call them tomorrow.

Sorry, I don't have any photos, but here goes ...

Series Land Rover.

Longer rear leaf springs that front leaf springs.

In order to use longer (rear) springs on the front as well ... and leave the axle in the same place ... you've got to move the front mounting point forward and the rear mounting point (the one that supports the shackle) rearward roughly the same dimension.

We've made templates and had sheet pieces made to weld on and extend the frame forward.

To relocate the rear mount, these bits of tube will be welded into the frame at the appriopirate location.

Again, thanks for the Aladdin link!

Chevy 1/2 ton springs?......what size tyre will you be running?...just curious about approach/departure angles when moving mounts...I did this to my Jeep once, so just curious, thanks.

Chevy 1/2 ton springs?......what size tyre will you be running?...just curious about approach/departure angles when moving mounts...I did this to my Jeep once, so just curious, thanks.

Naaah, I know Timm likes those Chevy springs, but I'm going to give a set of three leaf parabolics (RM) a try.

The short three leaf springs have worked for Aloharover with that big lump up front, and the rear springs are only something less than 5" longer than the front's ... heck, its an experiment :)

It'll just have 255/85's on it to begin with. We'll see how that goes.

Thanks for the suggestions, Ike. Revor called yesterday afternoon and has the scrap bits lying about that will work great!

KAA

two cheap options:

-make the sections from scraps of round stock on a lathe.


I am not sure that the person doing the work knows how to use his lathe :flipoff2:

:laughing: Lol ... Pete, you want a longer stick to poke him with :laughing:

Hey, he's got "people" to do that kind of work for him :grinpimp:

I am not sure that the person doing the work knows how to use his lathe :flipoff2:

He may know how to use the lathe, but given what he has for measuring tools and his refusal to obtain better, leaves the results to be seen.

How a guy can buy such beautiful machinery and not have better measuring tools is beyond me. But, what can you expect from a man who has a Snap-On bolt bin?

OTOH, it might just say volumes about abilities if a person can turn out such nice work with less than top-end measuring tools.

Easy and cheap would be some 1.25" Sch. 160 pipe (1.660" OD, 0.250" WT and a ID of 1.16"+/- Mill Tolerance).

if he´s worried about ID, the pipe will have a seam on the inside.

Whoa fellas ... problem solved.

Revor's got the stuff in hand, just talked with Mr. P., its under control.

Thanks,

KAA ... oh, and i've never had any luck with either "cheap" or "easy" unless you count my ex-wife :laughing:

Having said that, the frame will be galvanized after installation of these tubes, and so will need to be reamed to size after that process. It would be nice to have an appropriate ID to begin with, but not absolutely essential.


if he´s worried about ID, the pipe will have a seam on the inside.

A) If it is going to be reamed to size a seam from welded pipe or tube should not be an issue.

B) 1.25" Sch. 160 pipe is typically seamless (A53 type S, A106, A333 etc.)

I am not sure that the person doing the work knows how to use his lathe :flipoff2:

That will cost you. I just turn brake rotors and drums with it.

JP

That will cost you. I just turn brake rotors and drums with it.

JP

Well bring it to the Rally with you. I have some stuff that need 12mm left hand threads put on it :)

I figured since you are gluing pop guns together now that it made you the "machinist legend in your own mind"

JP

I am not sure that the person doing the work knows how to use his lathe :flipoff2:

At least it's assembled and not in a pile on the shop floor. Maybe that's what a rainy day like today is for?

Keith,

I'm curious about the objective behind the longer front springs. Is the goal greater front end articulation afforded by longer and more flexible springs?

There is only so much that can be done for the front end of course. And then there's the trade-off between increased articulation versus potentially diminished approach angle. When you get it done, it would be interesting to see the results and your evaluation.

I don't think there's more travel realistically available on the front end of a Series than this (barring notching the crossmember for another 1" - 2") so I would like to know how the longer front springs thing works out:

http://www.robisonservice.com/eventpix/05meet/images/DSC_3651.jpg

Sorry, I don't have any photos, but here goes ...

Series Land Rover.

Longer rear leaf springs that front leaf springs.

In order to use longer (rear) springs on the front as well ... and leave the axle in the same place ... you've got to move the front mounting point forward and the rear mounting point (the one that supports the shackle) rearward roughly the same dimension.

We've made templates and had sheet pieces made to weld on and extend the frame forward.

To relocate the rear mount, these bits of tube will be welded into the frame at the appriopirate location.

Again, thanks for the Aladdin link!

Your virtual-photography needs more mega-pixels. :flipoff2:

Tonka's photo looked a little flat to me too. I took the liberty of helping it out a bit...

http://www.tawayama.com/blog/thetonka.jpg

Objective? Shhhh ... mostly to make Pendy's life more difficult :laughing:

Naaaahhh ... really just trying to get a little more ride compliance. Plus, Cooper thought it was a good idea.

We'll see before too long ... hope to have news yet this Fall.

KAA

It makes a huge difference in ride quality and articulation and you dont need those whacky shackles . . . Much more stable and predictable.

Hey Ike,

I was looking at some old Rover photos the other day. Some shots of us picking up Coopers 109, his old Cummins 88, etc... Very fun. Oh yeah, remember the Stewart/Stevensons? Oh yeah, that made me excited for a minute.

If Cooper says it'll work well, it probably will. I would hesitate to contradict his suspension ideas.

It makes a huge difference in ride quality and articulation and you dont need those whacky shackles . . . Much more stable and predictable.

huh!?

Wait, how the heck do the shackles get eliminated?

huh!?

Wait, how the heck do the shackles get eliminated?


He means that you don't need the revolver shackles that RPR is using.

You know, I thought that right after I typed ... geeenius here :)

Hey Ike,

I was looking at some old Rover photos the other day. Some shots of us picking up Coopers 109, his old Cummins 88, etc... Very fun. Oh yeah, remember the Stewart/Stevensons? Oh yeah, that made me excited for a minute.

Those the same pics that youve been telling me youd send me for the last decade? :flipoff2: The pickup is still driving, but parts are being accumulated to gut its drivetrain and repower it with a different drivetrain. The adaptor on the diesel truck failed awhile ago and the transfer case ate itself. :( I built a new mainshaft for the transmission and adaptor. Im hoping to have it back on the road in the not too distant future. Maybe I should start a new thread on that. Send me the pics.

If you are hesitant on extending the frame horns, but want a longer spring, look into FJ60/62 front springs. The front eyelet to axle center is very close to stock Rover springs, but is longer in the rear, so all you would need to do is weld in a new tube further back for the rear of the spring. And just a reminder, don't forget to redo your brake flex lines and front driveshaft.

Disclaimer: I haven't seen this done yet, but a friend of mine has researched it and is planning on doing it soon.

-Jeff

Edit: found this pic of the Curl, now Neal 107 using 88 rears on the front

http://lh3.google.com/jeffreysbriggs/Rp5ItkciNhI/AAAAAAAAABI/wiLSiLk1WQg/Curl%20107%

Been away.

My request was "What's the goal and let us know how it turns out". Please do when you get a chance Keith.

My proferred opinion was that in terms of articulation, the picture that I posted shows about the most that can be got from the front end of a Series truck without substantial surgery.

There was no criticism of the longer springs effort, implicit or otherwise. And "stability and predictability" in a Series truck is very much a matter of the the eyes of the beholder and whatnot:D

No prob RPR.

Finally found appropriate tube locally. A nice five foot long piece!

I've got a cutoff saw in the garage ... waiting for "someone" to call me back with more exact dimensions so i can cut some and ship them off to Kansas :smokin:

KAA

"machinist legend in your own mind"

JP

Ahh hell no. I just overheard someone mention that there was a really nice lathe sitting to the east that wasn't getting used :D

Figure if I can't work out a trade with Revor I might need to look further away for some off the wall threading :laughing: