I have burned up 4 fuel pumps this year. I am tired of having to fix them on the side of the road. My engine will not take a mechanical, New style chevy and no I will not drill the hole for the push rod. Question? What is a good electric pump (external)? The type I was running will never be used again (Carter). Carberated engine. I was thinking of the Holley blue. Please help.:nuke:

I am using a cheap one from Napa, it has been working for the last 3 years.

i had a cheep one from az, it was about $25. ran it for 3-4 years in my bug and never had a problam. the holley's are nice though, you can rebuild them.

lol yeah same here, i had a 2.8 pos s10 with the inline autozone fuel pump running off a toggle switch, lasted 3 years

just replaced an autozone cheapy after 4 years of pumping diesel (not designed for that). if the next one goes another 4 years then I'll be happy.

I'm running the cheapest I could find at the local parts store that put out the pressure I needed. Last 2 years so far, no problems. Mine is installed after the filter. Is yours before the filter? And are you running a stock tank, aftermarket replacement, fuel cell, with inner foam or without? Need more information, most fuel pumps don't just stop working. There is more to this, you shouldn't go through that many.

The pump is before the filter, stock land cruiser tanks, the pump is located below the tanks so it is gravity fed. It is away from the exaust, and is a spot that gets great air flow around it. This last time I sprayed some water on it after it quit to see how hot it was and the water steamed off of it.

The pump is before the filter, stock land cruiser tanks, the pump is located below the tanks so it is gravity fed. It is away from the exaust, and is a spot that gets great air flow around it. This last time I sprayed some water on it after it quit to see how hot it was and the water steamed off of it.

I would switch it and the filter. IMHO, fuel needs to pass through the filter before going to the pump. This keeps anything that might jam the pump or start to clog it from reaching it. If the tank is stock, is their any rust from inside the tank that could be coming apart in the bumping around while out wheeling. Fuel tanks are like exhaust, they rust from the inside out. You can buy a simple sealer that you pure into the tank, but you need to remove the tank to do this properly. Just a suggestion. Like I said, there is a reason that pumps keep going out, it's not the pumps fault. "Lighting never strikes in the same spot twice." Something else is causing them to go out. I would get a cheap pump and then start to figure out what the real problem is.

I will try swithching the filter and the pump and give that a shot. The tanks are stock but not too long ago they went to a radiator shop to be rotted out and have any holes then welded. After that I looked inside them and they looked great. All the lines are new, new filter and new pumps. I hope the switch will work. P.S. For a carberater what should the fuel presure be to work properly. Edelbrock 650 4 barrel

I will try swithching the filter and the pump and give that a shot. The tanks are stock but not too long ago they went to a radiator shop to be rotted out and have any holes then welded. After that I looked inside them and they looked great. All the lines are new, new filter and new pumps. I hope the switch will work. P.S. For a carberater what should the fuel presure be to work properly. Edelbrock 650 4 barrel

I'm not totally sure myself, but I'm thinking around the mid teens. And you really want the pump mounted as close the the tank as possible.

carbed is normally around 4-6 psi

carbed is normally around 4-6 psi

Thank you. I don't run carbs, on anything, so I was just throwing a number trying to help. I was going off memory from about 10 to 15 years ago.

For starters, add a filter before the pump.
Which style Carter are you running? I've found that the solenoid pumps are garbage, no matter what the brand. I've had very good luck with their rotary vane pumps.
For presure, with that Edelbrock, you want to say sub 7 psi.

Thank you I will give this a shot.

Filter before pump--always--no matter what pump is used. It doesn't take much to stop a pump vane with a little dirt.

Try Walbro for a pump, they are particularly good in carb'd applications, low pressure with dead head (no fuel return). As has been said, filter before pump and then plumb in after the pump a fuel pressure regulator, cheapie Holly or equivalent should work fine.

I'm running a fuel injection setup, but I put a cleanable 60(?) micron sintered bronze element before the pump and a very small micron filter after it just before the injection. My reasoning was to keep the big stuff out of the pump, and in case of pump/line internal failure, keep crap out of the injection.

What kind of pressure regulator are you using? Does it have a return line?