I am looking for a new front axle. I need to know if the 78-79 Ford F150 was leaf sprung or coil. If it was coil how difficult is it to remove the radius arm brackets, I was told they are a real pain. Any help would be great.

the 78-79 F-150 D44 uses coil springs. Most radius arm brackets I have seen on 78-79 models are bolted on but I have heard that some used rivets.

The problem is the brackets on the axle. Most of the 78's and all the 79's I have seen have cast mounts the axles are pressed into. You need to find an early '78 or use a earlier one and swap out the drum brakes. Why not use a 3/4 ton axle? They have leaf springs <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> Just grab the D60 out of the rear while you are there.

i used a 79 bronco d44 in my jeep before i swapped the d60 in. there are c bushing wedges that are cast into the axle tubes. the radius arms and coil buckets just unbolt. you will be left with just the wedges. all yah really have to do is grind a set of perches to fit on the housing right. its more work than usual but not that bad.

77 1/2-79 F150 extra cabs often had leaf springs if that is the housing style you are looking for. You can also use the 3/4 ton housing but will need to change wheel hubs and rotors for 5x5.5 wheels.

take the ford stuff from the knuckle out and slap it on a chevy housing. <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by yjtj:
<STRONG>i used a 79 bronco d44 in my jeep before i swapped the d60 in. there are c bushing wedges that are cast into the axle tubes. the radius arms and coil buckets just unbolt. you will be left with just the wedges. all yah really have to do is grind a set of perches to fit on the housing right. its more work than usual but not that bad.</STRONG>

Here's a pic of a 78/79 Ford 1/2T (F150/Bronco) front end.

Bent tubes (like nearly all of them) so it was easy (read: free) to come by.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_10_2001/1.jpg

Cast in radius arm mounts.

I'm not sure if I have a better picture.. couldn't find one in a quick look, anyhow..

Since this thread is 2 years old and I dare no ask the uestion outright so I don't have to hear "use the search" I just wanted to know if grinding is the only way to get rid of the welded on wedges or has someone come up with an easier method?

i got my 74 dana 44 hp out of a f 100 and it had welded on c wadges and still had the big u joints. Then i went out and got some chevy disc brakes because they are alot more comman around here, they will bolt right up with no problems from what i remimber.

I wanting to know if there is a better way to get the wedges where the radius arms mount to the axle off the tube. I've heard blowing through the weld with a torch and then applying a sledge but I am fearfull of putting stress on or even bending the tube. I am using a coil set up but need to dump the welded on wedges before I can use my mounts. I already have the ball joints to the hubs taken care of.Thanks.

My HD-44 is out of a 79 F-250,l am going coils, I choose that axle even through its setup for leaves because the tubes are thicker.

Heres a pic

I would love to have that axle instead but.... I am also considering re-tubing. I have nothing but time right now.
Lator.....

i think you just need to see if hte peice is one or two peice design.. if its two peice "welded together" then it is possible to do by getting rid of the welds and hammering...if its a one peice with tube pressed through then I think the advise is gunna be not to fawk with it.

I would like to hear to if anybody figured out a better way..

PS how much tube is there between the mount and diff on the short side?

I'll be putting the '79 250 HP44 (5x5.5 approx~65"wms)in my TJ soon, and have searched to death also for some info:
Will the axle sit centered under my Jeep with the pinion lining up in the right location or will it be offset out to one side?

:flipoff2:

Originally posted by TJ Ken
I'll be putting the '79 250 HP44 (5x5.5 approx~65"wms)in my TJ soon, and have searched to death also for some info:
Will the axle sit centered under my Jeep with the pinion lining up in the right location or will it be offset out to one side?

:flipoff2:

As long as you center the axle and build your spring hangers or link mounts centered,the axle has no choice but to be centered. Probly have to outrig the hangers if your using leafs but you can keep it centered

in my TJ
Alright basically what I'm asking is if i line up the pinion with my driveshaft, will either the driver or passenger side stick farther than it's opposite side?

Originally posted by TJ Ken

Alright basically what I'm asking is if i line up the pinion with my driveshaft, will either the driver or passenger side stick farther than it's opposite side?
That's not how you "line up" an axle :rolleyes: You center the axle under the frame.

You center the axle under the frame
and then what?
deal with the pinion being offset compared to stock location?
Am i missing something?

Originally posted by TJ Ken

and then what?
deal with the pinion being offset compared to stock location?
Am i missing something?

Just center the axle ends so your tires are at the right point. The actual location of the pinion doesn't matter. It will vary a little, but that's the point of having ujoints in the driveshaft.

A 78-79 F-250 leaf sprring axle is basically a bolt in for a YJ. The spring pads line up great just like a Dana 60 from the same years.