My buddy has a cj5 that he wants to build. I was wondering what kind of setups other people have done on their rigs. We are planning on using a Chevy 350. What kind of tranny/transfercase setup would you all recommend. We are thinking about full width 60 and 44. thanks for the help. Ryan

Id go Sm420/D300 combo with that engine and drivetrain

what did that combo come in? Model/year

420's are in every GMC 1/2ton on up 4 speed truck from 47 to 67. D300's are a jeep standard in late model CJ's (donno the exact year of introduction) you'll need an adaptor between the two, but its a stout combination with good gearing.

plus the combo is fairly short and with a cj5 yah will need to think about that

Originally posted by yjtj:
<STRONG>plus the combo is fairly short and with a cj5 yah will need to think about that</STRONG>

Yep, very short. With the Novak adaptor almost as short as my 420/D18 combo.. which is tiny in comparison to some drivetrains.

We are planning opn doing it sprung over so what springs should we use. Should we think about a shackle reversal or not? Thanks for the help. Is the dana 300 a drivers side or pass. side drop? Ryan

[ 10-10-2001: Message edited by: truckdweld ]

the 300 is a passenger side drop. I did a shackle reversal and I like it, Bob will argue against it. Really its a personal thing. There are pluses and minuses to everything. As far as springs go for SOA I'd probably go with JC Whitney HD CJ rears on all 4 corners.

go for the jc whitney 7leaf hd springs in a spring over and i wouldn't worry about the shackle reversal. my jeep has s/r and i wouldn't say it was a worth while swap. the main things i have done to my cj5 to make it more capable are:

lengthened the wheelbase to 100"
widened the stance with wider axles
springover
fuel injection

i lengthened my wheelbase by actually cutting my jeep inhalf, just behind the doors, frame and all. i then lengthened it 15 "there by filling in the gap. yeah it looked cool and i got more room on te inside but for a dedicated trail rig it was to much work and i now have more sheet metal to ding and now that i have rolled it i basically have to build another body if i wanted to keep it this way (i'm not i will build a buggy from my current setup). i sugguest for a trail rig just move the rear axle back and cut the fenders out. if you run leaf springs just add on to the back of the frame and if you go coils, coilovers, or 1/4 eliptic you don't need to do that. anyway this way you have less sheetmetal. and you can alway find a new tub and just cut the fenders out again and go.

Originally posted by high5:
<STRONG>
lengthened the wheelbase to 100"
</STRONG>
This is something you should think about.

As far a a trans/transfer I'm running a jeep t-18 with the dana 20.(you could find a ford t-18 way cheaper) It is the shortest setup you can go. If you add a dana 300 the adapter will add 3"-4" in length and the dana 300 is about 2" longer then the 20. (I think) I have a 17 3/4" rear driveshaft with the stock wheelbase as is. <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">Very short <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> This is why I say you should think about lengthening the wheelbase. Other then the wheelbase thing I love my 5. Now build that thing <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

[ 10-11-2001: Message edited by: Syko ]

FYI...I have a Chevy SM465 adapted to a D20 twin stick for sale in the For Sale section (who would have guessed).

The problem I have is if you go the t18/d20 route your still stuck with the d20s lack of a decent low range.

Since he's installing a motor drive shaft length becomes less of an issue. With a 304/sm420/d300 combo in my cj I had a 16 inch drive shaft. when the 350 goes in move it foward a couple of inches that should take care of any problems with lenght of drive shaft.

I got a 5 question, just picked up a new rear axle for mine and am wondering if people outboard the rear or ? Stock is 27" wide, most are nearly 20" wider than that! I would like to make it more road stable (don't laugh) so I am considering the outboard - what do most people do, keep the 27" width?

On my 5 I did a mustang 5.0 with a ford t-18 to a dana 300 adapted with a novak adaptor. I think this set up is the way to go because it gives u a very short drive line and u don't have to be to concerned with the rear drive shaft. I really like this because it also gives me fuel injection with out a lot of added expence. I am alos soa with CJ7 laredo 6 leaf rears. These springs are super flexy and are military wraped in the slim chance u break a leaf. I am Running a Waggy 44 in the front that I cut down 4 inches and a Early Bronco 9" in the rear with 35 boggers

Yep, but since he's running a chevy engine, might as well run the shorter and deeper geared 420 <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"> BTW with a 231, 420, adaptor and D18 I still have an 18" rear driveshaft and thats in a pre-amc CJ. Brandon, I left the rear spring hangers where they were. Figured that since I was outboarding the front that'd help stability. It did.

Originally posted by Brandon:
<STRONG>I got a 5 question, just picked up a new rear axle for mine and am wondering if people outboard the rear or ? Stock is 27" wide, most are nearly 20" wider than that! I would like to make it more road stable (don't laugh) so I am considering the outboard - what do most people do, keep the 27" width?</STRONG>

I haven't done this but from what I've seen most people use 27 1/2" perches in the rear. Are you going SOA with it? If you want it road stable then SOA isn't the answer <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> I had my 5 SOA for a while and it was wild on the road. I broke the front perches off from axle rap and went back SUA for now. I need ladder bars or a link setup. SUA was just easier to make the trip we had planned. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> (And I'm lazy)
I hope I helped <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

It has been SOA for over 5 years now <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Brandon:
<STRONG>It has been SOA for over 5 years now <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

What springs are you running?

2.5" rancho

What if we could find a 1 ton chevy and use everything but the 205 transfercase. Would it be worth it or should we just look for parts. Thanks for all the help. Ryan

where are you gonna find a 1 ton chevy for less than $5,000?

Hey buddy fawk you ok. I have seen them for like 2000 for beater ass trucks. All we need is the drive train. So far today i have seen three or four for like 3000. that is for a decent one.

[ 10-11-2001: Message edited by: truckdweld ]

Originally posted by truckdweld:
<STRONG>What if we could find a 1 ton chevy and use everything but the 205 transfercase. Would it be worth it or should we just look for parts. Thanks for all the help. Ryan</STRONG>

If its an automatic you would be hard pressed to make it fit with out going to a to small drive shaft.

a $2000 K-30 ?!? Where did you find that? maybe up your ass? i have never seen one. And if there is such a thing why havent you purchased it and raped it for its drivetrain? huh partner?? yeah, thats what i thought.

lowest i have EVER seen one was for $3,500 and that was in lodi or some sh*t

[ 10-11-2001: Message edited by: lv2whl ]

Ijust saw one of those military 1.25 ton things with all new engine parts and stuff for 4000.

I am running a 289 ford with a cast iron case borge warner auto tranny, bolted directly to my model 18 transfer case. It is one of the shortest V8 auto trans setup I have seen and it works great. It is in a 71 CJ5. Some of the parts are hard to find, the output shaft for the trans to transfer is the hardest part to find. Jeep used them in early waggies with that combo.