I was just wondering if the ttb out of a f150 would fit under a ranger i know it would take some fab but i cant find a d44 anywhere right now.

Yes.

http://autofab.com/mdl_44_ranger.htm

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/450676/fullsize/kecks-offroad-pics-004.jpg

http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/450760/fullsize/kecks-2-22-06-00402.jpg

There are also cheaper, home brew methods to doing it as well. What are you wanting to do with your ranger that a D35 TTB won't do but a D44 TTB will?



hick

Yeah, stay w/ the D35 TTB

Sas

I got a third member for the d44 ttb with 4.10s and a locker. i'm gonna put a 9inch in the rear with a locker as well.

I was looking into this at one time.It can be done. If you bolt the Dana 44 TTB beams up in the Dana28/35 axle bracket holes, you'll only need to trim the middle shaft 1/2" to 1", or something like that. That way, you'll still be close to F-150 width (like 63" or something like that)

Then you'd just need the F-150 steering linkage...

Do it, and take lots of pics!

....It can be done. If you bolt the Dana 44 TTB beams up in the Dana28/35 axle bracket holes, you'll only need to trim the middle shaft 1/2" to 1", or something like that. That way, you'll still be close to F-150 width (like 63" or something like that)

Then you'd just need the F-150 steering linkage...

Do it, and take lots of pics!

X2, my friend did this with one of his Rangers, also dropped in Mustang 5.0, granny gear four speed, 9" rear and made a nice flatbed with storage boxes and a roll bar like a tow truck. That truck wheeled great! :smokin:

SteveG3, nice lookin Ranger!

X2, my friend did this with one of his Rangers, also dropped in Mustang 5.0, granny gear four speed, 9" rear and made a nice flatbed with storage boxes and a roll bar like a tow truck. That truck wheeled great! :smokin:

SteveG3, nice lookin Ranger!

So what about the coils and shit does it all work or what needs to be done. I have to steal my girlfriends camera but i'll get tons of pics when i do it

All depends on how wild ya want to go with it.

What i'd do is take the f-150 engine crossmember and throw it in the ranger (modifiy the ranger frame to work with thise off course, widen it where needed), then you can throw in and ford motor you desire.

I only want to do as little as possible to make this work good in the woods considering its a trial rig.

I only want to do as little as possible to make this work good in the woods considering its a trial rig.

The Autofab kit is virtually bolt-on. Be ready to drop some coin, though. Their parts are for serious abuse, not just a "lift kit".

What i'd do is take the f-150 engine crossmember and throw it in the ranger (modifiy the ranger frame to work with thise off course, widen it where needed), then you can throw in and ford motor you desire.

That's making a lot of extra work...

As already said, the D44 TTB bolts right into the existing axle brackets (some lift may be needed for the diff to clear properly though).

Three ways to deal with the slight width difference at the pivots:
#1. modify the pivot brackets by drilling a new hole location ¾-1" inboard of the existing holes

#2. Extend the beams 1" at the pivots (probably the best method)

#3. Bolt it straight into the brackets and cut the passengerside axleshaft(s) 1.5" total.

1 & 2 preserves it's full 65" width, 3 will narrow it about two inches.

You'll probably want to use extended radius arms on this setup. Some modifications for fitment will be needed here to accommodate the extra width of the axle (might be just a matter of angling the brackets out slightly)

For the coils, you can space the buckets off the frame about 1-2" (this is all that's needed because the lower mount on the D44 is angled in slightly).

the way we do it on our race trucks we use cheap rough country 4" lift brackets and move them out 1inch on the passenger side ttb bracket the just make some shock hoops and run air shocks or coilovers. then make some of your own radias arms with hiems or jonny joints and call it a day. well of course there are the brake lines and steering but do whatever your method is for that. the d28 and the d44 has the same banjo bolts so that'll be easy.

That's making a lot of extra work...

As already said, the D44 TTB bolts right into the existing axle brackets (some lift may be needed for the diff to clear properly though).

Three ways to deal with the slight width difference at the pivots:
#1. modify the pivot brackets by drilling a new hole location ¾-1" inboard of the existing holes

#2. Extend the beams 1" at the pivots (probably the best method)

#3. Bolt it straight into the brackets and cut the passengerside axleshaft(s) 1.5" total.

1 & 2 preserves it's full 65" width, 3 will narrow it about two inches.

You'll probably want to use extended radius arms on this setup. Some modifications for fitment will be needed here to accommodate the extra width of the axle (might be just a matter of angling the brackets out slightly)

For the coils, you can space the buckets off the frame about 1-2" (this is all that's needed because the lower mount on the D44 is angled in slightly).

Stock radius arm wont work huh? i was trying to do this as low cost as possible.

nope not a chance. radius are easy and cheap as it is. if you trying to get it that cheap cut the factory end off (after the threads) then put a piece of tubing and extend it 12" then weld the threaded part back on and make a angle iron gusset. now thats cheat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! worked great for me for about two seasons till i made newer better arms.

I guess i'll make some then. any one got any pictures and/or measurments?

I also wanted to say thanx for all the advice and information. If i would have asked this question on fte i proably would have only gotta sas for an answer.

thats what your more likely to get here also. go ask rhino. anyhow cut two pieces of .250 wall tubing that will fit over the radius arms and make them 10 or 12 inches longer make sure then are the same on both sides then just weld away. i personaly used bronco/f150 radius mounts but you can do whatever you want to. just start and take pics. we'll be happy!!!!!!!!

You could sell the centersection you have and pic up a 35 if you dont already have one and put aussies in both ends for $500

I'd like to solid axle this but i dont want to sink tons of money into this turd. So just use the stock radius arm mounts off of a f150 that would be good becuase i have some from when i put my 6inch on my truck.

That's making a lot of extra work...

As already said, the D44 TTB bolts right into the existing axle brackets (some lift may be needed for the diff to clear properly though).

Three ways to deal with the slight width difference at the pivots:
#1. modify the pivot brackets by drilling a new hole location ¾-1" inboard of the existing holes

#2. Extend the beams 1" at the pivots (probably the best method)

#3. Bolt it straight into the brackets and cut the passengerside axleshaft(s) 1.5" total.

1 & 2 preserves it's full 65" width, 3 will narrow it about two inches.

You'll probably want to use extended radius arms on this setup. Some modifications for fitment will be needed here to accommodate the extra width of the axle (might be just a matter of angling the brackets out slightly)

For the coils, you can space the buckets off the frame about 1-2" (this is all that's needed because the lower mount on the D44 is angled in slightly).

you see, this is why junkie is my hero...lol

Always there to dispense tons of helping info.

You could run F-150 coils, but that's pretty stiff, I imagine EB coils would probably be a better choice. Throw on some F-250 shock mounts for longer shocks (there like $20-$30 bucks from the dealer), I do believe the ranger coil buckets will work, as well as brake lines (I think). Then extend the radius arms (F-150, I don't believe ranger ones will work) and your good to go!

I guessing with the extended radius arms i gotta move the radius arm brackets back?

You could sell the centersection you have and pic up a 35 if you dont already have one and put aussies in both ends for $500
I'm gonna put a 9inch with a locker in the rear i got a good deal on these axles. I was gonna put them in my fullsize but when my buddy asked if i wanted his ranger for 250 i figured i'll build it instead.

Nope radius arm mounts stay in the stock place when you extend the arms. :rolleyes:

Use the F-150 radius arms (they fit on the D44 axle better than the Ranger ones), and then extend them like gfbgreaser289 mentioned (I did my BII arms this way).
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/702000-702999/702959_14.jpg (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/702000-702999/702959_14_full.jpg)



you see, this is why junkie is my hero...lol

Always there to dispense tons of helping info.

Lol, not sure I feel like a hero... just trying to be helpful is all :) (someone has to do it when others out there have nothing else to yell except "SAS!!" :rolleyes: )

Nope radius arm mounts stay in the stock place when you extend the arms. :rolleyes:
shit now i look like a total retard. but thanx for the info. and once again thanx for all the help. Ok now i have another question if i were to flip the rear spring hangers and put some kind of revolver shackle. how effective are they and are they worth the effort since i'm already gonna have the rear out.

Do a quick search for revolver shackle, the general opinion around here is they are generally for ramp queens. Do the search and you will see their issues with unloading and such. I'm not sure about the ranger so someone else will have to field the one about the shackle flip but Explorers already have the shackle going the correct direction.

Yeah, Rangers have the shackle in the same direction also.

Flipping it will actually lower the truck.

Lol, not sure I feel like a hero... just trying to be helpful is all :) (someone has to do it when others out there have nothing else to yell except "SAS!!" :rolleyes: )

no shit!
On your ranger's D44, did you beef it up at all like the D35 in your BII, or leave it stock?

no shit!
On your ranger's D44, did you beef it up at all like the D35 in your BII, or leave it stock?

I did the circle-clips and Spicer 760s, and Warn hubs.

I was wanting to put alloy stuff in it (since I already blew the $$$ on a locker for it), but after reading this (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=467075&highlight=shaft+strength) (looking at the D44 numbers), I'm now not sure it's even worth it ($1000 later ($1300 I'm guessing if you could get TTB stuff) and only a 16% strength increase?? The full-circle clips and 760s alone makes about that amount of difference on the stock shafts already :confused:
Fitting some Longs in it could be an interesting project though...

Hi if I am not mistaken it is more trouble than it is worth. If you are going to do a swap I would go with a solid axle.If you know how to fab right you can do it if not then there is a couple of kits out there ,but they are kind of pricey for a poor country boy,so it is best if you or a friend can fab....

well i'm putting a solid axle in my f150 so all the parts will be free so its not gonna cost me anything really is the whole reason i'm doing it

Hi if I am not mistaken it is more trouble than it is worth. If you are going to do a swap I would go with a solid axle.If you know how to fab right you can do it if not then there is a couple of kits out there ,but they are kind of pricey for a poor country boy,so it is best if you or a friend can fab....

great way to start off with your first post on pirate man! have you even read all the posts yet?

I love it when people barge into a thread, without reading all the posts, say stuff like "that's stupid", "you can't do that"...etc

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z151/PARKINGLOT3310/funnies/jackass.gif

I am sorry if I upset you with that.I was only saying that it is a lot of trouble to put f/s ttb in a ranger .but since you have the parts there I understand using them to full effect :)

where is the best place to get a dana 60/70 f/r set narrowed for rangers.I mean as far as price to quality :)

Do you guys think that I should just go all out with this truck and just go full out trail truck with a buildup and such?

Do you guys think that I should just go all out with this truck and just go full out trail truck with a buildup and such?

If you have some other daily driver, then YES deefinitely. If no, all depends on what ya want to DD...and do you worry about rolling it and makiing it undrivable. :flipoff2:

well, My dd is a 96 F-150 (go figure) reg. cab shortbox with 38s. but its to clean to be a wheeler. so it just gets used to pull people out. so i dont care about trashing this truck since i only paid 250 for it. and whatever break must have not been strong enuff anyway. So. as soon as i get some pics of it, I'll start a thread.

I think you answered your own question dude. DD your nice 1-fitty and wheel the ranger. Simple.

and youthpastor70, I didn't mean to come off all flamely, it just there's alot of guys that post in threads without even reading all of it...

I have a brass/copper custom radiator,but I also have a warn 8274 winch in front that is causing a hot prob can anyone help me with the air flow problem to keep it cool without losing the 8274.I need the reliablity of it but I need to stay cool on the trail too Help!! By the way it is on a 89 Ranger.....:confused:

dont ask unrealted questions in others threads. start your own in the newbie general section.

putting a 44ttb in a ranger sounds like a great project. the answer isnt always "SAS!!!" i have heard so many people say that their modded ttb gets them everywhere their solid axled buddys go. so in your case where you have a d44ttb to dispose of, it only makes sense to send it home under your $250 ranger. props to you

Sorry I am new to this format of asking things didn't know .:)

thanx for all the help again. Has anyone here ever welded a 28? this is just a quick fix till i get the solid axle swapped into my 150. and another real quick question how the hell does the pass side axle shaft come out of the third on the 28??

Several have welded the D28, yes. Many also snapped one of the puny shafts 1st time out afterward, too (I'd leave it open).

The inner shaft is held in the diff with a circlip on the end (pull the pig off the beam to get at it). The D44 TTB is also the same way.

Sorry I am new to this format of asking things didn't know .:)

Maybe you should read a few threads first then eh? Like where all the newbs ask stupid fucking questions in the wrong forum? Just a thought.

Several have welded the D28, yes. Many also snapped one of the puny shafts 1st time out afterward, too (I'd leave it open).

The inner shaft is held in the diff with a circlip on the end (pull the pig off the beam to get at it). The D44 TTB is also the same way.


So welding the 7.5 is proably a bad idea as well huh?

So welding the 7.5 is proably a bad idea as well huh?

the 7.5 stands a better chance than the D28 does...

the 7.5 stands a better chance than the D28 does...

fuck it i think i'm gonna weld em both and take pics of the carnage