I finally got my hishteer and spring over done. I used our clubs 30 degree ramp to test the flex before and after shocks.
It looks like my limitations are coming from body rub and my draglink hits pretty bad.

What have you guys done to get more flex from the front? ( I have stock springs with 35's )

It's a completely different scout than it was a few months ago.

New:

D60 rear narrowed for scout width, with Detroit locker. Uses d44 ends so I retained all brake hardware and stock bearing size.
4.56 gears.
Cut and turned front
Front Lock-Rite
New-ubolts and plates
Stainless extended brake lines and new shocks
Mark Williams 35 spline 1.5 inch shafts for the rear.
IH pickup flat top knuckles
Scott Automotive highsteer arms.
1.5 " Tie rod with 3/4 inch rod ends from SpiderTrax

Still working on...flex limitations/final tweaks and front driveshaft.
Still has the auto tranny and the 345 needs some work ( that's the next project ).


http://lamar.colostate.edu/~bgwheels/rigs/shane/60.JPG
http://lamar.colostate.edu/~bgwheels/rigs/shane/PASSEN1.JPG
http://lamar.colostate.edu/~bgwheels/rigs/shane/DRIVER1.JPG
http://lamar.colostate.edu/~bgwheels/rigs/shane/POSER1.JPG
http://lamar.colostate.edu/~bgwheels/rigs/shane/backedup.JPG

I like your cat (in the last pic):)

While my scout was on jackstands he made the drivers seat his bed....fawkin cat hair everywhere!

Nice work, make sure you keep an eye on the nuts for the arms, I did not notice lock washers under the bolts. The arm at that length is going to generate a lot of force on the pass side arm. Carry extra studs and an extractor kit incase the arms let go.

:beer:
Joe

Thanks for tip Joe... I hope that never happens but always good to be prepared. :beer:

Looks great. I'm diggin the hood scoop. I don't think I've seen that one.

Thanks Josh,

I get asked about the hood scoop alot so....

It was done by the PO...I don't know where to get one. It is really cut out and has a screen on the opening.

It works great to help cool the engine ( I almost never run hot and i dont have a fan shroud yet ).

In the winter it keeps the windshield nice and clear so i don't have to use the defroster.

You need a better arm. This one is 1/2" higher
http://www.partsmikeparts.com/A3.jpg


Or run a spacer and move it up an inch
http://www.partsmikeparts.com/Arm_block.jpg

Parts Mike The high steer man!

www.partsmikeparts.com

Originally posted by daleviathan
Thanks Josh,

I get asked about the hood scoop alot so....

It was done by the PO...I don't know where to get one. It is really cut out and has a screen on the opening.



You can get them from a number of the finerglass dealers. I thikn A/T Scouts carries them. IIRC, they are a reproduction of the hoodscoops used on one of the "special edition" aftermarket conversion scouts, like the Midnght Star, or something like that. I guess the brain cell that info was stored in has been drowned. :beer: :p

[QUOTE]Originally posted by daleviathan
I finally got my hishteer and spring over done. I used our clubs 30 degree ramp to test the flex before and after shocks.
It looks like my limitations are coming from body rub and my draglink hits pretty bad. [quote]

You sure your shocks are not limiting you? Mine limit mine, and I have long shocks and shock towers. In the front, I max out compression front and rear, and it looks like I max out droop in the rear for my shocks also. I am going to move the top of my shocks inward.

The rear shocks are rancho 5010's and they are mounted at a pretty steep angle, they don't even move very much from what I could tell.

In the front I put rancho 5012's, they are 32.5 inches fully expanded, and I used f150 shock towers where the stock mounts were located. I thought maybe the fronts would limit, but when I measured ( both sides at droop ) they were at 30 inches eye to eye.

Not much room to grow, but good for now.

Originally posted by daleviathan
The rear shocks are rancho 5010's and they are mounted at a pretty steep angle, they don't even move very much from what I could tell.

In the front I put rancho 5012's, they are 32.5 inches fully expanded, and I used f150 shock towers where the stock mounts were located. I thought maybe the fronts would limit, but when I measured ( both sides at droop ) they were at 30 inches eye to eye.

Not much room to grow, but good for now.

I'm curious if it was maxed out on compression? Doesn't affect droop, but I was curious in any case.

Are you still running spring clamps? Your springs should be opening up more. It is really hard to see from your pictures, but it does not look like the leaves are opening up enough. They have to be able to open, and twist. And the shackle on the droop side looks almost vertical, instead of pulled inward, more inline with the springs....
This is what mine look like fanned out.

http://www.nwbinders.net/Trails/LakeIsabelle/LakeIsabelleJune2002/FannedSprings.JPG

Hmm.. yeah, I am still running spring clamps, I think 4 on each spring pack. I might have to rip those things off tonight, thanks.

The shackle didn't come too far past vertical on the droop side, but that might also be because I was putting the tire into the body a little on the other side, and the drag link was hitting so I stopped.

I backed off a few inches because of the drag link, so I think I still had plenty of rubber on the ground to climb a little more.

I will have to look again to see if I was bottoming out on compression, but it was hitting body too. Time for some more trimming!! :D

Originally posted by daleviathan
Hmm.. yeah, I am still running spring clamps, I think 4 on each spring pack. I might have to rip those things off tonight, thanks.

The shackle didn't come too far past vertical on the droop side, but that might also be because I was putting the tire into the body a little on the other side, and the drag link was hitting so I stopped.

I backed off a few inches because of the drag link, so I think I still had plenty of rubber on the ground to climb a little more.

I will have to look again to see if I was bottoming out on compression, but it was hitting body too. Time for some more trimming!! :D

If you went to all the trouble of the hi steer and SOA, you need to lose the spring clamps. They will really limit your sring flex. Keep one clamp per spring, put it right up by the axle (front of the axle in the front, rear of the axle in the rear). Make sure the clamp is strong and tight though. You want it to keep the springs from fanning side to side.

Especially in the front, if your springs fan too much, it can lock up your steering. Ask Skip about that. He got a concussion from it. Forest service road, relaxing after a day of wheeling, went around a corner, springs locked up the steering, wouldn't allow him to steer back out, no time to slow down enough, he drove up an embankment and rolled over, smacking his head on a rock on the ground outside his door (SSII - no doors) as he rolled past it. He woke up about 5 hours later with a concussion. Had to call for help on his CB to straighten things out and get back to camp...


I would say that those clamps are the biggest problem you have at this point.

At full stuff, my tire rubs the shocks, my bumpstop hits the spring plate, and my drag link comes to about 1/8" from the bottom of my springs. That's about all I can really do. When I go to 35's, my tires will rub the shocks pretty severely, so I will have to address that.

http://www.ihssii.org/Hooper/Images-Technical/TireShockRub.jpg

Thanks for the info on the spring packs...will do.

I am running 35's so in order to get the really long shock mounted so that the tire wouldn't hit it, I cut the fenderwell and mounted the shock slightly inside the engine bay. One the driver side this is a real PITA because the brake proportioning valve is bolted to the fender right in the way. I still haven' t figured out how to best relocate that permanently, but as I mentioned, there are still a few little things i am working out.

As soon as I get some more time to work on it I will take some other pics...of the springs and shock mounts.

Originally posted by daleviathan
Thanks for the info on the spring packs...will do.

I am running 35's so in order to get the really long shock mounted so that the tire wouldn't hit it, I cut the fenderwell and mounted the shock slightly inside the engine bay. One the driver side this is a real PITA because the brake proportioning valve is bolted to the fender right in the way. I still haven' t figured out how to best relocate that permanently, but as I mentioned, there are still a few little things i am working out.

As soon as I get some more time to work on it I will take some other pics...of the springs and shock mounts.

Yep. All kinds of stuff in the way over there.

Good luck with it. Hammer the clamps off and try again. I think you will like the results.

Originally posted by Old Scout
You need a better arm. This one is 1/2" higher
http://www.partsmikeparts.com/A3.jpg


Or run a spacer and move it up an inch
http://www.partsmikeparts.com/Arm_block.jpg

Parts Mike The high steer man!

www.partsmikeparts.com

Those are nice. They even have the cone washers just like GM. :)

Cheaper to make my own though.

:cool:

So when does it start flexin?!?

Spidertrax did a fine job on that steering.

Yeah, I was meaning to talk to you Damian....I heard through the grape vine that you claim to get a 900 on a 30 degree ramp with a basic spring over?!?!?

If that is true...how do you manage that? As soon as I take off some spring clamps and get the drag link out of the way I can really see how it flexes ( ohh yeah, and cut some more body ).

Originally posted by daleviathan
Yeah, I was meaning to talk to you Damian....I heard through the grape vine that you claim to get a 900 on a 30 degree ramp with a basic spring over?!?!?

If that is true...how do you manage that? As soon as I take off some spring clamps and get the drag link out of the way I can really see how it flexes ( ohh yeah, and cut some more body ).

That was with 33's, RS :barf:, long travel shocks, and few other tricks.

Originally posted by daleviathan
Yeah, I was meaning to talk to you Damian....I heard through the grape vine that you claim to get a 900 on a 30 degree ramp with a basic spring over?!?!?

If that is true...how do you manage that? As soon as I take off some spring clamps and get the drag link out of the way I can really see how it flexes ( ohh yeah, and cut some more body ).

Since everyone ELSE is getting 900 @ 30deg w/o spring clamps.. maybe I'll cut mine just so I can play ramp-whore.

BUT.. I need to keep my springs clamped a little tighter than most to help fight spring-wrap.

Where can I get new spring clamps and how are they typically retained on the axle and kept from sliding?

I should be able to pose with the best of 'em.. now that I angled some Rancho 7012s in the back I shouldn't be limiting rear droop with the shocks any more... and the 14.75" Bilsteins up front don't seem to be limiting much either..

http://www.m4x4a.org/ImageGallery/album35/DCP_0070.thumb.jpg

I run 35's with a SOA on cut and turned IH truck Axles, **no** RS, 33" long shocks in front on custom shock towers and 30" or so rears with lower mounts like you....2" body lift, two inch longer than stock homemade shackles, and some other little tricks.....beefy steering rods with heims and a Scott Automotive steering arm...yada yada.... Shocks are used as the bumpstops...I learned that from Snoopy. :idea:

I have not cut my fenders yet...I guess the extra width helps me avoid the problems you and Hooper are having.. Looks good to me!!! Nice ride.

Here's my SII....posing....

http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL68/424839/468032/9510929.jpg [/IMG]

Here is my site with more pics:
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=468032&uid=424839

Like is good on the dark side.... :vader2:

Gotta love the cats.... :mad3: Here kitty kitty... :nuke:

Hey YellowIH...You don't find that the drag link will hit on the springs with the Scott Automotive high steer arm? DId you put a spacer under it or does it have to do with having full width axles?

Originally posted by YellowIH
I run 35's with a SOA on cut and turned IH truck Axles, **no** RS, 33" long shocks in front on custom shock towers and 30" or so rears with lower mounts like you....2" body lift, two inch longer than stock homemade shackles, and some other little tricks.....beefy steering rods with heims and a Scott Automotive steering arm...yada yada.... Shocks are used as the bumpstops...I learned that from Snoopy. :idea:

I have not cut my fenders yet...I guess the extra width helps me avoid the problems you and Hooper are having.. Looks good to me!!! Nice ride.

Here's my SII....posing....

http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL68/424839/468032/9510929.jpg [/IMG]

Here is my site with more pics:
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=468032&uid=424839

Like is good on the dark side.... :vader2:

Gotta love the cats.... :mad3: Here kitty kitty... :nuke:

Nice. Now, how about some closeups of the good stuff. Steering arms, drag links, shock towers, the important stuff.

Looks like you got the axle centered pretty nicely.

I have a set of long shackles, but I have not needed them with my 33's, although they might help my RTI ;) Right now I just run stock shackles. Maybe I will put the long ones on for Roundup ;)

Originally posted by YellowIH
I...beefy steering rods with heims


Ick.. how often do you replace those?


You don't find that the drag link will hit on the springs with the Scott Automotive high steer arm? DId you put a spacer under it or does it have to do with having full width axles?


I was OK with my TriCounty arm and my "dropped" TRE before my RS.. when I went RS I later added 6-deg shims to bring the pinion back up.. and then started bending the draglink over both springs.

I also found with the RS I was using the steering box for a bump stop.

I now have a 7/8" TRE equipped Gryphin DOM draglink that brought the draglink up a bit higher and now clears both springs no problem. Might have slight contact (depending on how dirty things are) at full stuff.

I also swapped to a '73 Buick Century Station Wagon pitman arm which I reamed out and then ground down the TRE to bring the draglink and pitman arm up VERY close to the frame.

I just need to figure out how I want to deal with not having a cotter-pin.. it's not a HUGE deal since the rig gets a full inspection between uses.. and it "never" sees pavement.