I'm going to put a mojave heater in the RRC this weekend. Part of my plan is to put a valve to block off hot water flow to the heater so that I can just use it as a blower motor. Am I correct in thinking that blocking off the heater hoses won't cause any problems?

If pressure relief is an issue, it looks like the throttle body hose can do that until the thermostat opens.

I have run a standard plumbing ball valve in my RRC's for years. No problems.

Some argue that the antifreeze rots or decays in the heater core. Whatever.

It shouldn't cause a problem, but, '94 Discos (and perhaps earlier ones as well) had a bypass valve that returned the flow to the block. Might be worth a thought. That said, many domestic vehicles of the 50s, and Series trucks used a system like you've described.

If it blows up, we know not to do this:flipoff2:

You are gonna post pics up so that all of us with RRCs and anemic heaters can see what it looks like?

I have run a standard plumbing ball valve in my RRC's for years. No problems.

Some argue that the antifreeze rots or decays in the heater core. Whatever.

Didnt you use a solinoid valve at one time so you could turn it off and on from the cab.

Im guessing you mounted the switch next to the sun visor mister switch :flipoff2:

-Jeff

I used a special valve from Red Dot that was rated for heater hose applications. Bad thing was it leaked, so I went to the straight plumbing fixture from Home Depot.

Worked on it all day today and got about 2/3 finished. I know someone with a digital camera now, so I can probably post up finished pictures, but I don't have progress shots.

I took out the entire largesse heater unit. I found that when finesse didn't work, brute force dislodged it from its home beneath the dash with the only casualty being some cracking sounds from the center console area.

I kept the two electric switches from the climate control panel. They will control the air conditioner module only, which is still intact.

Defrost is probably the most important feature to me, so I plumbed the four vents into the back of the evap module plenum, where the heater unit used to connect. Some sheetmetal magic and caulking made the square hole fit the four round hoses. I found a handy 1 1/2" sump pump kit with corrugated plastic hose at HD that fit right inside the stock defroster hose. Good for extending.

I want to have some form of fan-driven fresh air. So, I used a 4" flexy aluminum dryer vent hose to run from the old fresh air intake to the mojave intake. Sheetmetal blocks most of the old intake except where the dryer hose is plumbed in. The hose runs from the driver side of the old intake, to the passenger side of the new heater. The mojave (Summit knock-off) heater has an intake on the passenger side near the rear. You could flip it over, but the heater hose intakes almost line right up with the stock location as is. By the way, 5/8" heater hose will do the whole job.

That's as far as I got today. It will probably cost about $200 total, which is about $250 less than if I bought the kit to replace the blower motor, resistor, and heater core.

Worthless without pics :flipoff2:

Worthless without pics :flipoff2:

I have pics to email to someone. I spent all my money on car parts and can't afford to renew my star this month.:p