Is it feasible to take a standard 20" ar barrel, have it cut to 14.5", add flash suppressor, and possibly have it turned down a bit under the handguard. This would make a "dissipator" style upper, without having to actually buy one.

The gas port is farther out than 14.5" if memory serves so no. You can get it turned down and chopped to 18" and still run reliably. You may need the gas port opened up a touch.

All in all you're going to spend as much or more than getting a new barrel in the first place.

Is it feasible to take a standard 20" ar barrel, have it cut to 14.5", add flash suppressor, and possibly have it turned down a bit under the handguard. This would make a "dissipator" style upper, without having to actually buy one.

yes...and no :laughing:

1) 14.5" unless a SBR/pistol or has a permanent attached device to 16" is not legal

2) you would have to redrill the gas port and run a carbine length gas tube to have a true "dissipator" style as the gas system is hidden "under" the handguards. You can actualy achieve this using a stock gas block ground down. If you read some of the build I did I have a "dissipator" style done with a full length sight radius and handguards but with the gas system under the guards.

3) turning it down after cutting may not be necessary depending on what your end product desired is.

It will cost you $150ish for a 14.5 barrel WITH gas block that can be cut down to fit under a handguard and gas tube.

That is almost as much as what it will cost to convert that 20"

Is this what you are looking for?

http://jtdistributing.net/store/more_bu_du.html

Is this what you are looking for?

http://jtdistributing.net/store/more_bu_du.html

or this if he wants to rebarrel

http://jtdistributing.net/store/product854.html

or this if he wants to run a full floating handguard and a clamp on front sight block
http://jtdistributing.net/store/product852.html :p
or get that and a spare front sight block, attach the handguard retainer to the block and cross pin/set screw the bitch for full sized handguards.

Aloharover should be able to hook you up with the shit needed or maybe even do the barrel change. I would but my timeline with work is a little fucked :laughing:

Rather than start another thread, I'll hijack this one...:flipoff2:

When building AR, is there any problem with using say a DPMS lower with a Bushmaster upper? Or would it be best to use everything of the same manufacture?

Rather than start another thread, I'll hijack this one...:flipoff2:

When building AR, is there any problem with using say a DPMS lower with a Bushmaster upper? Or would it be best to use everything of the same manufacture?

It will blow up if you mix Colt with anything else, the rest are fine :flipoff2::laughing:

some fit better than others. it matters not. The one in my sig is a DPMS lower and doublestar upper.

It will blow up if you mix Colt with anything else, the rest are fine :flipoff2::laughing:

some fit better than others. it matters not. The one in my sig is a DPMS lower and doublestar upper.


Good to know, thanks. I've got a buddy who is convinced that Colt is the only "real" AR. Claims nothing else will suffice.

He has never even owned an AR-type rifle...:laughing:

The reason I am asking. I picked up a nice 20" on trade. I *think* what I really want is a 14.5" (with perm. attached flash suppressor) or a 16" pencil profile barrel, midlength gas system, and a simple handguard. I want something light and handy, but I'm not a fan of the long barrel sticking out on CAR/M4 uppers.

Here is what I'm working with.

CMMG has what I'm looking for, but the upper will be $550 plus after shipping. I guess in a perfect world, I would be able to sell the upper, buy a new one, and have some money left over for mags and some ammo.

This is what I want to end up with.

CMMG has what I'm looking for, but the upper will be $550 plus after shipping. I guess in a perfect world, I would be able to sell the upper, buy a new one, and have some money left over for mags and some ammo.

post a pic of what you want and we can show you the cheapest/easy way to do it :D

Look above your post ;)

so you want a mid length gas system on a retro upper? you don't want a flat top any more?

I want a flat top upper, 14.5 or 16" lightweight barrel, fixed front sight, removable carry handle or possibly a fold down rear sight. Think I could get 600 or 650 out of that upper with a removable front sight included?

I would give ya $400 for the upper :flipoff2: :p

All kidding aside, 6-650 would be pretty high in my book. I can get that new at the Reno show for around that or even less.

I want a flat top upper, 14.5 or 16" lightweight barrel, fixed front sight, removable carry handle or possibly a fold down rear sight.

shit, that's easy :laughing:
Go 16" or go SBR. better options either way. I would just go 16" unless you have a need for the 14.5"

Do you want the rail full float handguard you have there or do you want the one in he pic?



Think I could get 600 or 650 out of that upper with a removable front sight included?

depends on whos upper, condition, barrel and round count.

I would guess maybe $4-500.

oh and I see nothing that makes CMMG "special" unless I am missing something.

I would give ya $400 for the upper :flipoff2: :p

All kidding aside, 6-650 would be pretty high in my book. I can get that new at the Reno show for around that or even less.

Their is my problem. I don't really have any money to put into this. So anything I do will have to be done on a trade, or sell for enough money to buy what I want. That handguard retails for 155 by itself, and the front sight is 50.

This is what you want? Rock River.

I am PM you your prices.

If you send me the rifle I can swap it all out return you the rifle and the A2 buttstock. Would keep the upper as the fee.

Or send me the rifle or just the upper and I can put the new barrel and gas system on your upper for $275. +50 for free float. +50 for Chrome. +50 for the 6-pos buttstock

With the midlength system the free float is a tube, it is not A2 style handguards over a free float.

Pete

Thanks for all of that. Those are some good prices. I'm still trying to decide between the midlength and 16" with pencil barrel. Could you PM me pricing on the Stag M4, and the DPMS PantherLite uppers?

This is what you want? Rock River.

I am PM you your prices.

If you send me the rifle I can swap it all out return you the rifle and the A2 buttstock. Would keep the upper as the fee.

Or send me the rifle or just the upper and I can put the new barrel and gas system on your upper for $275. +50 for free float. +50 for Chrome. +50 for the 6-pos buttstock

With the midlength system the free float is a tube, it is not A2 style handguards over a free float.

Pete

Thanks for all of that. Those are some good prices. I'm still trying to decide between the midlength and 16" with pencil barrel. Could you PM me pricing on the Stag M4, and the DPMS PantherLite uppers?

Will do.
The Stags all have the gov profile w/the M203 notch in the barrel.
The Midlength is a 16" barrel with handguards in between the M4 and standard rifle length.
The Pantherlite is a 20" bbl.

PM sent with all prices. You will note that they are all very close to each other..

Speaking of AR barrels, I've got what I'm sure is a ridiculous question. I just bought a used upper in excellent condition. Got a good deal.......I think. It's got the A2(?) flash hider, but I can't tell if it should be permanently attached or not. Where do I begin and end measuring the barrel? Do I go completely from one end to the other--end of the muzzle threads to the face of the breach? Do I measure from the front of the upper receiver to the edge of the relief where the threads start? Help.

You go from the face of the bolt in battery to the end of the crown.

AKA, stick a 1/8" wooden dowel down the barrel with the bolt shut, mark the end of the barrel, remove said dowel, and measure. Or don't even bother worrying about it unless you sell it.

Alright, so I'm measuring from where the "star" ends and the chamber begins, all the way to the end of the threads on the threaded muzzle? Sorry for the poor vocabulary here. I'm pretty much lost with this thing.

AKA, stick a 1/8" wooden dowel down the barrel with the bolt shut, mark the end of the barrel, remove said dowel, and measure. Or don't even bother worrying about it unless you sell it.

Problem is it's already got that hider on it. It's the one with the long cuts on the upper portion of the hider, and the solid bottom. I think I'm good, but I appreciate the suggestion. I'm also thinking about that upper you got. Let me talk to some people and figure some things out. Thanks.

If it's a regular A2 flash hider with the open front(there are some ban versions that look like they have a washer welded in the front) it should be removable. Soak it with some good penetrating oil and see if you can get it off with a wrench.

Alright. I believe that's what it is. Will I have to have a special washer/orange peel/goop/anything to re-install it?