I am pulling out my whole drivetrain this week, would like to yank the 345/727/D20 as a unit. From a time/effort standpoint should I seperate the engine, or pull the whole thing as a unit? If I pull it as a unit does anyone know the approx. balance point?

Pull the 20, you can't remove the sticks from the 20 in the vehicle (we'll you can, but you have to drill a hole in tunnel). You have to remove the drive shafts, what is 5 more bolts and a cable to remove the T-case. You'll have a much easier time removing the just the engine and auto.

Joe

*I* pull them all out as a unit with my tilt-front clip.

It's EASY.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_10_2001/12.jpg

I run a chain from the back of one head to the front of the opposite head, across the top of the intake.

I attach my hoist towards the rear of this.

Yes, this is NOT the "center balance" point.

I then put a jack under the tranny and remove the trans x-member and unbolt the motor mounts.

I can then lower the transmission jack, which drops the t'case down a good bit - you can then easily remove the shift lever pivot pin and the shift lever.

Then I run my come-along from the hoist back to around the rear output of the Dana 20 (or to a bolt in the adapter if the D20 has been removed previously for some reason).

I then use this come-along to adjust the amount of tilt while I pull everything out.

I pull it straight out the front, leaving the t'case all-but dragging on the shop floor while I clear the oil pan and stuff, then I crank on the comealong and pull the t'case up to clear the front frame crossmember.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_10_2001/14.jpg

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_10_2001/17.jpg

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_10_2001/18.jpg

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_10_2001/21.jpg

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_10_2001/24.jpg

While I had it out, I cut the extra material off the D20 to make re-install easier (and bigger exhaust possible)

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_10_2001/35.jpg

New trans bolted up and ready for re-install..

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racer/6_10_2001/40.jpg

I am getting good at pulling the tranny. I would pull them seperate. You have to remove all the same things off the tranny to pull them together, except the 6 bellhousing bolts and the torque converter bolts. TC bolts might actually be easier to remove with the tranny still in the truck. So, the only hard part about pulling the tranny first, is lowering it, really. And, if you have a good jack, it is not tough. Or, you can do like I did, nest some cardboard boxes and just drop the tranny onto them ;) (actually, I had the tranny strung up to the roll cage, so it just kind of swung down on an arc.)

With the tranny out, you just unbolt the engine and pull it out.

In any case, the D20 comes off first.

Hooper's an expert in the Tranny pull.... and Auto's *are* easier....


*I* prefer to pull together, if I can/need to, EXPECIALY with a manual (not your case though).


As jdjanda said, you can't *easily* pull the t-case levers stock.... drill the hole in your tunnel, you will be much happier in the future, trust me :D Find a nice hole-plug at the auto/hardware store and drill a hole to match, about 1" is good.


For a fulcrum, run a chain from the back of one head to the back of the other, its actually almost a perfect balance for a engine/tranny/t-case unit, a *little* tail heavy, but that is good.

Better yet, get a engine "load leveler" and make like even more fun.

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
Hooper's an expert in the Tranny pull.... and Auto's *are* easier....


*I* prefer to pull together, if I can/need to, EXPECIALY with a manual (not your case though).


As jdjanda said, you can't *easily* pull the t-case levers stock.... drill the hole in your tunnel, you will be much happier in the future, trust me :D Find a nice hole-plug at the auto/hardware store and drill a hole to match, about 1" is good.


For a fulcrum, run a chain from the back of one head to the back of the other, its actually almost a perfect balance for a engine/tranny/t-case unit, a *little* tail heavy, but that is good.

Better yet, get a engine "load leveler" and make like even more fun.

Yeah, if I could just figure out an easy, efficient way to get it back in. And, actually, it is not just putting the tranny back in that is a hassle, it is getting the t-case back in. I use RS for the tranny t-case seal, so I have to be careful not to bugger up that bead of RS on the t-case, while bench pressing that stupid 500 lb tcase back into place. There has got to be a better way.

Originally posted by Hooper


Yeah, if I could just figure out an easy, efficient way to get it back in. And, actually, it is not just putting the tranny back in that is a hassle, it is getting the t-case back in. I use RS for the tranny t-case seal, so I have to be careful not to bugger up that bead of RS on the t-case, while bench pressing that stupid 500 lb tcase back into place. There has got to be a better way.

Reminds me. I need to go pick up a new oil pan seal and replace that this week, before I put the tranny back in, although it is easier to put the TC bolts back in with the pan off.

Anybody want to walk me through puling the motor only? My 345 has laid down on me :nuke: and I am going to have to drop in a short block I have.

Any tips before I start? :confused:

I've never did a motor swap, but the Motor, tranny, and t/c are the only things I have not had apart or replaced on my SII. Well I did install a cam (268H), intake, 4bbl, and headers to the motor. I have never had the motor out.

Any buildup tips to the new motor??? This is a trail only rig!

Do I just unbolt the motor mounts and tranny from the motor and support the tranny with a tranny jack while I do the swap?? Do I need to remove the hood? She's sitting SOA on 35's... :D

Oh yeah...from the Newbie: :flipoff2:


Thanks.

I like to jack the back of the truck way up drop cross member and pull the whole thing as a unit.

a piece of coat hanger around the front drivshaft and the starter holds it in tight.

the front tires removed and axle on a some short jackstands

pull the rad,hoses and wires. disconect the starter when you wire the front drive shaft

pull the stick shift handle out but just drop the transfercase shifter right through the floor with the boot still on it(damn knobs never come off

a adjustable balence point screw devise really is worth its weight in gold...you can change the balence point as you go to clear things

Originally posted by YellowIH
Anybody want to walk me through puling the motor only? My 345 has laid down on me :nuke: and I am going to have to drop in a short block I have.

Any tips before I start? :confused:

I've never did a motor swap, but the Motor, tranny, and t/c are the only things I have not had apart or replaced on my SII. Well I did install a cam (268H), intake, 4bbl, and headers to the motor. I have never had the motor out.

Any buildup tips to the new motor??? This is a trail only rig!

Do I just unbolt the motor mounts and tranny from the motor and support the tranny with a tranny jack while I do the swap?? Do I need to remove the hood? She's sitting SOA on 35's... :D

Oh yeah...from the Newbie: :flipoff2:


Thanks.

Yes remove the hood, and the rad if you want to make it easy. Disconnect all wires, fuel lines and vacuum lines. Support tranny, unbolt. If it's an auto you'll need to remove the TC bolts. Attach hoist and pull. That's it.

Joe

How do I get at those Torque Converter bolts? Thanks.

Originally posted by YellowIH
How do I get at those Torque Converter bolts? Thanks.

Now if that's not a DAN question I don't know what is one :rolleyes:

Assuming we're talking Scout II..

Pull the hood - be careful not to lose the hinge nuts in the hood (you can't "lose" them but it can be a pain to get 'em lined back up later).

Disconnect battery.

Disconnect starter wires and pull them aside.

Disconnect distributor wires and put them aside.

Unhook gauge wires (oil/temp)

Disconnect alt wires.

Disconnect exhaust from manifolds.

Remove the inspection cover from the 727 and use a 9/16 wrench/ratchet to remove the converter bolts.

Use a screwdriver on the ring-gear, or bump the starter to spin it around to get to all 4 bolts, then push converter back.

You can also use a 15/16 socket on the harmonic balancer.

Remove the "underside" motor mount studs, loosen the single top side stud nut.

I like to remove the p/s bracket, or at least the pump from the bracket, and wire it to the inner fender.

Drain & remove radiator.

Unhook booster vac. line.

I'll then raise the motor with my hoist. Then put a floor jack under the front of the transmission to support it while you remove the 6 bell housing bolts.

I bought a 3/4" ratcheting box-end wrench just for this job.

Seperate, pull the motor out..

Long-term, run a 2x4 across the fenders with a chain down and around the transmission to support it.

Originally posted by tsm1mt
I bought a 3/4" ratcheting box-end wrench just for this job.

Seperate, pull the motor out..

Long-term, run a 2x4 across the fenders with a chain down and around the transmission to support it.

This is one of those places where I really like my air ratchet. Break the bolts loose with the box wrench, then put the air ratchet on and pull the trigger. BZZZZZZZ out they come!! Putting em back in is just as easy. Bzzzzz, then use the box to cinch them down tight.