Ok, I've been doing some reSEARCH and have come up with some stuff:

91+ was HO
92+ has no axle disconnect
95+ has a HP front end with 297X U joints

95+ AA makes better SYE
94- JB makes better SYE
The Rubicon Express SYE gets pretty mixed reviews.

Tera Low Gears in an NP231 will hold up to a moderate amount of captain insano style driving.

My question is:

Do I give a rip if its a HO model 4.0 or not?

What year will have the most workable auto tranny? Are any of them gonna hold up?

Should I do tera gears and SYE at the same time or what? Any relation between the two sets of parts?

My intent is to take the tires from my ranger, part it out, bolt them onto the XJ (after some sawzall action) fab an internal cage, add the 4:1 gears, and run it till it breaks, then upgrade the axles and suspension as necessary (probly RC44 and 9").

I am looking to make a fairly lightweight rig (for towing's sake)that I can use for camping and trails, not crazy rock stuff, as I have a D60, D70, and a tubing bender to make that toy happen from.

I'd appreciate some help, any tips on wording of the title so that future searcher's can reap the most benefit from your advice?

Mike

correction, any abs equipped front end has 297 joints.

yes you want an HO
any aw4 will hold up (auto)

do the JB conversions sye, but DO NOT use the terra JUNK. if you want both, get an atlas. and be money ahead, with fewer headaches.

Ya, what the guy who drinks Redbull and vodka said. :D
'95 was a good year.
And yes, Atlas.


Jes

Not sure if body style or interior anre important to you but I really like the 97+ style's. Personally I can't stand the interiors of some of the 91-95 models. The way the gauges are layed out. As for the equipment just like the other guys said.

The years you look at are up to you, but here's a little breakdown of the pros and cons of each year block.

84 - 86: Stay away from the first generation XJs unless you want to do lots of work. No 4.0 available, no overdrive auto, and transfer cases are weaker than the 87+.

87: First year of 4.0, Auto is better than the Peugoet BA10/5 5 speed manual. Earlier XJs came with Dana 44 rears. Watch electrical accessories as they tend to cause problems at this age (applies through 90).

88 - 89: Same as above, but the far superior AX-15 5 speed was introduced in late 89. Fuel tank capacity increased in 89. First years of Bendix ABS which has so many problems that there is an unrestricted warranty on it (mandated by Fed Gov't).

90: Last year of the Non-HO 4.0. Last year of the closed cooling system. Most problems with second generation XJ gone by this year.

91 - 96: First year of HO 4.0. First year of open (with radiator cap on radiator) cooling system. The 231 (Command Trac) lost the vacuum disconnect in 91. This is a better (strength wise) system than the earlier setup. The 92 was last year of power/comfort switch for auto tranny. Third taillight added in 93. Driver's side airbag added in 94. Aux fan improved in 95. Very few problems with second generation XJ remain. The HO moved the powerband up in the RPM scale to give better highway performance, but it's still got good low end too. The open cooling system (91+) is far superior to the closed system. Mostly due to not having a plastic pressure bottle that can fail. This is easily retrofitted to the newer system with a radiator swap.

97 - 01: First major revision to XJ since introduction. New front bodywork, new all steel hatch, and dual airbags. Fuel tank replaced with plastic unit to save weight. Prone to driveline vibrations even with only Upcountry. There are some problems with the third generation XJs eating brake rotors, having vibrations, and other fit & finish problems, but they are mostly nitpick items. In '99 the throttle body was extended a bit. The 2000's also went to a coil rail spark plug set up and lost the "traditional" distributor. The exhaust header also went from a tube type, back to cast in a 3 x 2 exhaust combination. Climate controls also went from vacuum actuated to electric. The 2001 lost the 2.5 liter engine.

The Auto vs Stick is a matter of preference after 89 because they have about the same strength and reliability. I personally prefer the 242 for winter performance, but it is only available with the Auto.

Originally posted by GonPostal
The years you look at are up to you, but here's a little breakdown of the pros and cons of each year block.



:bowing to the human XJ encyclopedia:

Wow, that is a TON of great info man.

Fit / Finish and body styling are at best something that will be destroyed shortly after I purchase the vehicle, so not a huge concern. I imagine there will end up being a sheetmetal dash with the factory guage cluster mounted to it for now, eventually replaced by some auto meter stuff when I have a few bones to throw around. Fenders are gonna be tin snip bait anyway.

What's this about the "all metal hatch" Was it made of plastic or some shit on the earlier models? Will the plastic help me out with weight distribution, or just fall apart?

The auto vs. stick deal is an experiment. I have a been wheeling my ranger with a manual tranny, 4.56's, lockers, and mud terrains, with little success. This weekend I was out in my stock dodge 4x4 with an auto (tow rig) and I pulled the vacuum line off the front axle. I absolutely amazed myself at what I was accomplishing in 2wd with the auto tranny in the truck, so I want to try one in a trail rig.

If the terra low kit sucks ass in the transfercase, I assume there is no other simple alternative to an atlas? I am not going to be able to pony up the cash for that purchase for quite some time. Anyone make a doubler?

I am not at all excited about spending a weekend and $4-500 on a set of gears and install kits for a D30 and D35, I figure I will end up with a couple of lunchbox lockers in the axle's, with stock gears, till I turn them into junkyard fodder.

I have heard there is a year break for the reverse cut versus regular cut front end. As mentioned above, I am not really concerned about durability out of the axles, but any "gimme" features that I can shop for that will keep me from breaking them as fast would be nice.

Thanks again for the help, all of you, this is great info, keep it coming.

Is there a weight or other advantage to the 2 dr versus the 4 dr? I would like to carry 3 adults in comfort on the trail.

I take it the 242 mentioned above is an NP242 t-case? What advantages does it have?

reading this thread:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=41409&highlight=RE+SYE

Is what gave me the idea that the terra kit would hold up... are these guys wierd, or are the 1000000 other people who bombshelled there 231's keeping their mouth's shut, or are they just spending more money upgrading a 231 than they would on an atlas?

Once again, thanks for the great info.

damn, that was concise.

the only thing i see that ya forgot was that somewhere in 99 or 2000, they switched to the same standard cut front end as the TJs.

and they started using c-clip d35 rears in 1990.

the 2-door vs 4-door thing.

there's really no difference except you can dig out the wheelwells more in a 2-door, and someone getting in and out of the back of a mud-covered 4-door WILL get mud on their ass squeezing though the back doors.

then NP242 transfer case has 4 mode ranges. 2HI, 4HI part time, 4HI Full-time and 4LO part time.

THe full time mode uses a center differential which lets you run 4wd on dry pavement without binding.

The 242 is harder to find SYEs for though.

JB conversions sells a 231HD for like $800, and i believe you can order it with a 4:1 kit installed (comes with SYE) check it out at jbconversions.com

the previous hatches were fiberglas, and they were prone to cracking, i broke off the latch mount on my 86, i think they reinforced it with steel after 87 or 88.

Ok... I did forget about the all metal hatch in '97s and newer, that replaced the fiberglass hatches from '96 and older. With that came a redesign of the hinge assembly as well. The hatch hinges are now internal and "hidden" as opposed to external. Also speaking of the '96 model, that's when the 231 tranfer case changed design. In the '96 and newer, the tailcone was redesigned by shortening it considerably. This meant that the slip yoke no longer traveled through the tailcone seal while sliding on the tailshaft. The tailshaft is sealed independently from the slip yoke. On the plus side of that was that one could remove the rear driveshaft if a u-joint broke, and not lose tcase fluid. On the negative side, that meant the tailshaft was more exposed and less supported; making it more prone to bending and vibrations. Typical cure is a SYE. The RE SYE is not all that bad, and is just as strong as a base Tom Wood's SYE or a Currie SYE as those kits use the stock tailshaft as well. You just pay them to cut and tap the tailshaft for you. An AA or JB SYE replaces the stock tailshaft with a much beefier one.

As mentioned, the 2 door and 4 door are the same in all respects other than the obvious door configuration and minor weight descrepancy. You have more side panel to chop away at the rear (and not worry about the rear door). The negative is having a passenger crawl into the rear of a 2 door.... there is no graceful way of ingress or egress.... it's kind of like diving into a barrel.

And lastly, yes, the D30 Reverse cut transition took place in late 1999 or early 2000, depend on when the XJ was built. I'm sure if I dwell on it some more, more things I've missed will come to mind....

Originally posted by GonPostal
91 - 96: First year of HO 4.0. First year of open (with radiator cap on radiator) cooling system. The 231 (Command Trac) lost the vacuum disconnect in 91. This is a better (strength wise) system than the earlier setup. The 92 was last year of power/comfort switch for auto tranny. Third taillight added in 93. Driver's side airbag added in 94. Aux fan improved in 95. Very few problems with second generation XJ remain. The HO moved the powerband up in the RPM scale to give better highway performance, but it's still got good low end too. The open cooling system (91+) is far superior to the closed system. Mostly due to not having a plastic pressure bottle that can fail. This is easily retrofitted to the newer system with a radiator swap.


One very minor nit: Driver's side airbag was intro'ed in 95, not 94. I know, my 94 does not have one.

Now I gotta print this out for future reference....

ChiXJeff

Also, some XJ's came with the Chry 8.25 rear axle in leu of the 35c. I think its the XJ's with out ABS.

8.25" rear end is fairly stout in the 29 spline version. Several lockers are available for them including ARB. 29Spline didn't show up until 97, tho. I do believe that if it has ABS in those years, you get the D35C.

All XJs until late 99 build are HPD30. The 97+ also has increased unibody rigidity (30% according to Jeep).

I would definately bag on the SYE and 4:1 in favor for the atlas. $1000 vs $1850 for the atlas 3.8 and you will be forever thankful.

SeanP

Originally posted by SeanP
8.25" rear end is fairly stout in the 29 spline version. Several lockers are available for them including ARB. 29Spline didn't show up until 97, tho. I do believe that if it has ABS in those years, you get the D35C.

Lack of ABS would be a postitive feature for me, so I guess I am gonna end up with the D35 :nuke:

All XJs until late 99 build are HPD30. The 97+ also has increased unibody rigidity (30% according to Jeep).

is that pre-99 are High Pinion? or Post 99 are High pinion, I thought it was all units after a certain year, not all units before a particular year. 30% better chassis strength is mas bitchin, can't beat that.

I would definately bag on the SYE and 4:1 in favor for the atlas. $1000 vs $1850 for the atlas 3.8 and you will be forever thankful.

is the $1850 for the atlas an atlas ready to bolt into my rig or what? I know I will need driveshaft mods, I am more concerned about tranny adaptors, etc.

Also, how much more pricey is the 4.3?


SeanP

I have a line on a 91 or 92 model, white 4.0 automatic, so it sounds like that model will have the lighter hatch, the HO motor, the good auto tranny, but may or may not have the good cooling system. I guess for $1100 I can work around the cooling issues, and I am gonna blow up the axles no matter what they are, so if they are not the most bitchin it is not gonna kill me.
:nuke: :smokin:

Thanks for all the info guys, I gotta go look at this rig now.

Mike

If you get one with over 100,000 miles on it get a new 3 core radiator. The stock one core units suck.
And if you get a pre '91 XJ with the closed cooling system get a radiator for a '91 or later XJ so that you get a radiator with an actual cap on it. Then later you can convert the whole system to the much more user friendly open cooling system.

Jes

cooling will be fine if its a 92, they changed it in the middle of 91 from the closed system to the open, my 91 is open, and I've only seen one 91 that had closed.