Just finished a batch of pass. side knuckles and was wondering if it would be cost/time effective to make up some to put on the shelf to sell on an exchange basis (or outright?).

How much are people paying for the machine work? what do you get? are they rusty crap like these or are they shiney and pretty? did you get studs and ball joints too?

I tried a search and no luck

thanks

Eric

http://www.sonic.net/~sprocket/06100004.jpg

I paid $115 for a knuckle like that with no exchange. new ones are $175 and are available without the cast arm on the knuckle, no ball joints, studs or cones..

Bob Roggy was charging $50 labor to machine a knuckle about a year ago. Not sure if that has changed or not.

I traded a oil drinkin GM 151, and sr4, for machining drilling and tapping one d44 knuckle, and a 1/4"x5'x4' piece of steel. :D

Got the knuckles off of two different vehicles along with proper brakes, and spindles and such to go on a waggy 44 all told it was 150 bucks, axle and all.

:flipoff2:

MJ

I charge $50 also.

I'm in the market for a set let me know!

Most guys charge $50 just for the machine work (no ball-joints). The yards around here charge $25 per knuckle. Given all this, I think it would be fair to sell a machined flat-top without ball-joints for $100.

Originally posted by 66CJdean
I charge $50 also.

Each?

strange, thats the same $ I was thinkin'.

Eric

Yes each.

Yeah if you want to sell the knuckles i need a pair!!!!!!

Originally posted by 392ssII
Yeah if you want to sell the knuckles i need a pair!!!!!!

Why do you need both??
All you need to pay good money for is the passenger side one. Just get the driver's side off any 10 bolt chevy front end, its already to go with studs (plus it only cost like $25 at most yards)

Anybody have an opinion on a driver's side flat-top from a Dodge? I saw one yesterday, it looked a little bit different but it was machined flat and had studs the same as a Chevy knuckle.

Originally posted by liveaxle
Anybody have an opinion on a driver's side flat-top from a Dodge? I saw one yesterday, it looked a little bit different but it was machined flat and had studs the same as a Chevy knuckle.

I've seen those before also, good question.

Also, will they fit on my HP60? (j/k):flipoff2:

I've got a fulltime '77 Dodge disc-brake axle with flattops. If you're going to do this, go ALL Dodge; brakes, bearings, hubs, stubs, etc. Nothing is the same as Chevy/GM stuff. It does get you 1.5" 35-spline outer shafts that spline directly into the hubs; no lockouts to break. I can't tell you about the newer axles with regular hubs for sure, but I think those have 30-spline outers (again, not like GM). I think that the old drum-brake knuckles and stub shafts actually were the same as GM, but you probably don't want drums and the spindle bolt pattern is rotated vs. the disc-brake knuckles.

Forgot to mention that the stud pattern where the arm goes is exactly the same on the Dodge, GM, and Ford knuckles.

Here's a thought ...

I'm of the opinion that the right side knuckles with the flat tops were made that way to accomodate right hand steerin' for vehicles that would be sold in other countries (ie Australia) that drive on the wrong side of the road.

By that rationale, the folks down under should have an abundance of machined rights, but would also be looking for machined lefts.

any thoughts ??

Originally posted by urjb
By that rationale, the folks down under should have an abundance of machined rights, but would also be looking for machined lefts.

any thoughts ??


Probably true but shipping would cost more than having a right hand knuckle from the junkyard machined.:D

Originally posted by Lloyd
I've got a fulltime '77 Dodge disc-brake axle with flattops. If you're going to do this, go ALL Dodge; brakes, bearings, hubs, stubs, etc. It does get you 1.5" 35-spline outer shafts that spline directly into the hubs; no lockouts to break. I can't tell you about the newer axles with regular hubs for sure, but I think those have 30-spline outers (again, not like GM).


What, is this true? I've never heard of 35spline, 30 spline, or 1.5" diameter stub shafts for a Dana 44. Are you talking about Dana 60's?

Yes, this is true. Yes, it is a Dana 44 ( I WISH it was a 60! :D ) Yes, my outers are 1.5" diameter and 35 spline and slide directly into the hubs (no lockouts, only one splined connection) and are secured by a big castle nut and cotter pin. With CTM's and 4340 inners, the next weakest link is probably the R&P.

A lot of people will tell you that the bearing/hub assembly is weaker, but usually they're also the same people who say that they're "sealed" and there's no way to put grease in the bearings. :shaking: This myth seems to have originated from lack of proper maintainance (grease, seals) and people not facing the bearing retainer when new bearings are installed to get the proper preload. IMO they are at least as strong as any other 44 knuckle/spindle/bearing assembly, and the stub shafts are clearly superior.

BTW, I have 37's and my truck's sticker says that it weighs 6100 empty. I am not particularly easy on it, but I do grease the front wheelbearings.