Just thought I'd post a note... I was bending some new control arms, and I broke my 1.75" bending die.

The material was 1.75 OD DOM, with a roughly 0.460 wall. :)

Welded the die back together, gussetted it up, and went back to bending happily along.

Yes, this is hydro powered, with a 3" ag cylinder and a dumptruck 12V hydro pump.

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper
0.460 wall. :)



:eek: :eek: :eek:

COOL:eek: !!!!!!!

Scott- love to see a pic of the repaired area....how the heck do you break a solid piece of die? Were all the pins fully seated vertically before the hydraulics were engaged?

The material was 1.75 OD DOM, with a roughly 0.460 wall.

Is that tubing thick enough for ya? If not, why not just go solid! You're almost there!

Jeff

That's getting it in the garage!

Scott.....you're to BEEF what Camo is to BREAK!

Man...that's thick tube.

Jay

.460??? Damn! And I've got people telling me my .375 is overkill!

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper
I was bending some new control armsWorking on the white Amigo? I doubt Corbin will break that.

Originally posted by Outlaw99TJ
.460??? Damn! And I've got people telling me my .375 is overkill!

I was bending these 'cause the last iteration, at 0.375 wall... got bent on Independence. Oops. That's what I get for trying to use smaller diameter (1.5") tube for radius arms, I guess.

Zuk, the pins were fully seated, I broke the part that the U-strap pins onto, off of the rest of the pie-shaped die. Broke the welds in half.

Here's a post-repair pic... note the "gusset bar" from the backside of the piece, to the rest of the die. Figured that should be enough.

Those arms are probably 55 lbs apiece... and he wants to go with a lighter engine for weight savings. Go Scott! :D
Rockstomper, home of the BEEF!

CRIPE! Time to go with the model 4 bender! :)

Tom :usa:

Scott your wall thickness was fine, you just needed a larger diameter. With the right diameter you could probably even drop to .250 wall (any less of course you'd risk denting the link). You'll gain much more strength with diameter than you will with the wall thickness approach. As mentioned above the ultra-thick wall is really just adding weight.

Edit: I see you did go up a 1/4" on diameter. I don't think that extra wall thickness is helping, but at least that weight is nice and low (as if your CG wasn't low already :flipoff2: ) Nice job on the bender btw :beer:

That brace you welded in is the trick.....I could see how the original welds could give under thickwall tubing....the die-maker should have done what you did. Nice welds by the way. That took alot of power....220 amps of MIG I bet.

Originally posted by Eric Ruhl
Scott your wall thickness was fine, you just needed a larger diameter. With the right diameter you could probably even drop to .250 wall (any less of course you'd risk denting the link). You'll gain much more strength with diameter than you will with the wall thickness approach. As mentioned above the ultra-thick wall is really just adding weight.

Yup, I know it. I have this perverse thing about wanting to keep the physical tube size down on this one too, but I know from experience, I could drop to 0.250 wall if I use 2" tube. Probably even drop to about 0.200 at 2", realistically, but I don't think there's such a beastie readily available.

Mostly, I just wanna lower my CG... I can't sidehill quite 90 degrees yet. :)

Zuk, I agree that they shoulda done that brace to start with, but realistically, 1.75x0.500 or thereabouts, is far far far more burly than what they designed this thing for. Thanks for the props on the welds. Actually wasn't quite 220 amps--it was a Millermatic 185 at full blast. Close. The fact that I can lay in that extra gusset and bend away anyway, to me, speaks volumes about the overkill design of the bender itself--I've seen lots of tools where if you beef up something that you broke, the main tool chassis fails next.

Rockroundtom, when I called JD2 for advice long ago, back when I was first stretching my 2" support strap (bending 2" 0.250 DOM, BTW :) ) they told me how to gusset up the dies, and they said the Model 3 was the only one they made, that'd actually take the kind of abuse I was putting it through. The Model 4 was (at the time) not quite to market yet, and the Model 5 or 6 (I can't remember which the top of the line was at the time) they specifically said, I'd break. The bender, not the dies. So the model 4 might hold up to this, I dunno for sure. They specifically noted that the Model 3 was (at that time) a couple years behind the times, technologically, but they were just gonna keep cranking 'em out 'cause they're cheap and they work, and 'cause guys like me don't typically break 'em.

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper


Rockroundtom, when I called JD2 for advice long ago, back when I was first stretching my 2" support strap (bending 2" 0.250 DOM, BTW :) )


That's what I did to mine trying to bend 2" .250 DOM in my JD2. The strap just pulled right off of the pin....reinforced the strap and it's been fine.

Thanks for the pic.. this whole time I was assuming it was the pressure die that broke:rasta:

model 4 dies don't have any type of strap or tab on them.

just another hole thru the forming die........ the only breakage

you would see would be one of the pins..... (doubtfull)

I am making my links from DOM 1.75x.375 tube...........

think that'll be enough?

--Sherpa

Originally posted by SHERPA RIG
model 4 dies don't have any type of strap or tab on them.
just another hole thru the forming die........ the only breakage
you would see would be one of the pins..... (doubtfull)
I am making my links from DOM 1.75x.375 tube...........
think that'll be enough?

Well... if it's of any indication, I bent 1.5 0.375 with a gerbil motor, 170:1 crawl, and 44's. 36" links, radius arm type, and I bent them where the upper link of the radius arm Y's into the lower. Bent the lower. Realistically, I think 1.75 0.375 should be plenty, unless you've got as much crawl, and more motor.

Back when I was first screwing up my Model 3, the Model 4 didn't exist. Now I've got enough tooling and upgrading done to my Model 3, that it's too expensive to upgrade.

Scott, thanks for your words on the links....

here is what I'll be doing:

4-link rear, 1.75x.375 dom, 1.250 aurora heims on each end,

44's, atlas4.3, 5.13 in 60's, arb, running a slightly modded

350tpi......

--you think I'll end up bending????

--Sherpa

Originally posted by SHERPA RIG
4-link rear, 1.75x.375 dom, 1.250 aurora heims on each end,
44's, atlas4.3, 5.13 in 60's, arb, running a slightly modded
350tpi......
--you think I'll end up bending????


Four link, no. Radius arms, yes. I'm running wristed radius arms, so all my torque is controlled by one link assembly. That, combined with severe abuse, results in bent links. Since you mentioned four-link, I wouldn't worry about it bending in load from driving, but if you use long enough links *and* jump it high *and* land it on the links, then I might start to worry.

Four link, no. Radius arms, yes. I'm running wristed radius arms, so all my torque is controlled by one link assembly. That, combined with severe abuse, results in bent links. Since you mentioned four-link, I wouldn't worry about it bending in load from driving, but if you use long enough links *and* jump it high *and* land it on the links, then I might start to worry.Do you guys think with proper reinforcement, I could bend 2" x .5" thick DOM with one of these benders?

Chris